hi guys,

 

having problems figuring out where the convenience control unit is on my car, does anyone know please?

 

just want to check the wires before dismantling mt driver door to replace the locking mechanism as the sensors gone on the driver door.

 

many thanks guys  

The (driver's) door contact switch goes to the vehicle voltage control unit J519 connector XS4 (18 way, brown) pin 6, via pin 4 of the 28-way connector at the A-pillar.

 

The control unit you want is above the accelerator pedal (on RHD cars), and is a separate, different unit to the Convenience system central control unit you mention, which is above the clutch pedal (on RHD).

 

Edited 8 April, 20206 yr by Wino

1 hour ago, froggy8 said:

hi guys,

 

having problems figuring out where the convenience control unit is on my car, does anyone know please?

 

just want to check the wires before dismantling mt driver door to replace the locking mechanism as the sensors gone on the driver door.

 

many thanks guys  

Sure it's not cracked wiring between the door and the body?

thank you guys, long weekend upon us so thought i might try fix this issue.

 

i have already checked the wiring loom few days ago and everything was in contact.

i read somewhere that anothe rperson had same issue as mine, its either the wires to the control unit or the locking mechanism is faulty.

36 minutes ago, Wino said:

The (driver's) door contact switch goes to the vehicle voltage control unit J519 connector XS4 (18 way, brown) pin 6, via pin 4 of the 28-way connector at the A-pillar.

 

The control unit you want is above the accelerator pedal (on RHD cars), and is a separate, different unit to the Convenience system central control unit you mention, which is above the clutch pedal (on RHD).

 

oh so you saying its the control unit i need to check?

I was telling you which control unit it goes to (not the one you mentioned), it won't be a fault with the control unit.

It's most likely the microswitch on the lock, or the wiring from it to the door lock PCB, or the wire going to pin 4 of the A pillar connector broken in the bellows, as suggested above. 

4 minutes ago, Wino said:

I was telling you which control unit it goes to (not the one you mentioned), it won't be a fault with the control unit.

It's most likely the microswitch on the lock, or the wiring from it to the door lock PCB, or the wire going to pin 4 of the A pillar connector broken in the bellows, as suggested above. 

ok so i can rule out the door wiring loom but im bit confuse as the last part regarding the A pillar bellows.

The A-pillar bellows is the bit of convoluted rubber cable duct between the door and the A-pillar, through which the door loom passes on its way to the 28-way connector on the A-pillar.

4 minutes ago, Wino said:

The A-pillar bellows is the bit of convoluted rubber cable duct between the door and the A-pillar, through which the door loom passes on its way to the 28-way connector on the A-pillar.

thank you i understand now, just thinking how i would be able check the 28-way connector.

do you think i should just strip the door down and have a good look on the  wires?

Have you checked the wiring inside the door bellows (for obvious wire breaks)?

2 minutes ago, Wino said:

Have you checked the wiring inside the door bellows (for obvious wire breaks)?

yes, i pulled  the rubber boot as far back as it could go and even checked the wires going into the 28-way connectors and all looks good, in fact they still look new.

 

 

Then the problem is likely the door lock microswitch itself, or the solder connections where its wires go onto the circuit board inside the lock unit.

i was hoping it wouldnt be that. am guessing you would try fix the unit rather than buying another lock? or would another lock be more ideal?

They are a bit of a faff to get off, a bit of a faff to disassemble enough to check/fix solder connections and replace microswitch so unless you're quite confident and patient, I'd get a replacement lock module and fit that.  It took me two goes to fix the one on my Polo, which was irritating. But at least it only cost me a few quid for a microswitch.

 

Not sure if mk2 ones are identical to mk1, and I don't have any more energy to research that today. Night night.

Edited 8 April, 20206 yr by Wino

i am going to buy this one:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2007-SKODA-FABIA-1-2L-PETROL-5DR-DRIVER-SIDE-FRONT-DOOR-LOCK-MECHANISM/302384308341?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda|Model%3AFabia|Cars+Type%3A1.2|Plat_Gen%3AMK+II|Cars+Year%3A2008|Variant%3AMK+II+[2006-2014]+Hatchback&hash=item4667826075:g:c2QAAOSwD8BZagPB

 

seen a few youtubes for the driver door lock removal, seem easy enough.

 

thank you again. 

Seems a bit of a gamble buying a used one that's older than yours, and ignoring the red text at the top that says it doesn't fit a 2008 car?

Cheers.

 

 

1 hour ago, froggy8 said:

yes, i pulled  the rubber boot as far back as it could go and even checked the wires going into the 28-way connectors and all looks good, in fact they still look new.

 

 

Those wires can crack inside the insulation. They can look perfect from outside and actually be broken. The best way to check this is find the connector inside the body of the car, and the other end of it inside the door and check with a continuity tester.

58 minutes ago, Wino said:

Seems a bit of a gamble buying a used one that's older than yours, and ignoring the red text at the top that says it doesn't fit a 2008 car?

Cheers.

 

 

on my page it says it fits a 2008.

 

37 minutes ago, chimaera said:

Those wires can crack inside the insulation. They can look perfect from outside and actually be broken. The best way to check this is find the connector inside the body of the car, and the other end of it inside the door and check with a continuity tester.

i was thinking of that earlier but couldnt think how to get inside the car.

Get inside the car ?

sorry i meant get to behind the 28-way connector on the A pillar.

oh i need to get the locking mechanism out first to see the model number unless someone knows it so i can order one on ebay.

It'll be less effort to check the integrity of the wiring ....

would it help if i strip the door down? i have some clips left over.