I'm making this guide in hope that it helps other that are in a similar position. Through this guide you'll have a step by step process on how to access your door from inside the car. If you door is locked, deadlocked, or cables have snapped this will help you.

Tools you're going to need

• Philips Screwdriver
• Trim Removal Tools (as to not damage any plastic parts
• Drill with drill bits or Dremel

Step 1

You want to sit in the site facing the door of your choice

 

Step 2

Remove the A-Pillar tweeter cover

 

Step 3

Remove the inner door handle with the trim removal tool, on each side gently pull up.

 

Step 4

Remove the window switch, I found that the easiest way is to life up the handle and put a trim tool in on the side and lift it out. There will be a tiny hex screw behind there, make sure you unscrew it and take it out!

 

Step 5

There are x2 philips type screws, these need to be removed with a long screwdriver.

 

Step 6
Now the tricky part, getting the door card off with minimal damage if any at all. Grab that trim removal tool once again and place it at the back (as in picture) and try to unhitch the top of the door card over the lip on the door.

 

Step 7
Once you got the corner, you'll see that you can go all the way along to unclip it all.

 

Step 8
Now removal the speaker grille and the speaker with your philips screwdriver. You'll see that I use VW/SKODA speaker adaptors for a neater install, if your's are standard then you'll just have x2 speaker connectors directly on the speaker.

 

 

Step 9
All around the edge are screws that hold the door card in place, normally the door would be open and you'd unscrew them. But, as we cannot do this, you'll need to literally yank the door card straight off. Be sure to move the seat back to give you more space.

 

Step 10
If you've managed to create a gap, be sure to un-clip any connectors before completely removing it, you don't want to damage the loom.
   

 

Step 11

If the door is deadlocked and there's no power, no audible click, then you're going to have to cut into the door lock module. Look closely to my picture, you need to cut directly under the cable which is attached to the module.
 

Step 12

Try not to go to deep as you don't want to ruin the cogs/gears. Once you can see the cog, you'll need to start to turn, unwind it until you hear a click or that you can pull the door cable and see if the door opens.

 

Step 13

If you've done it all correctly then your door will open!

 

Step 14
Inspect the door card for any damage, I had very minimal but I wasn't to worried as I have a complete VRS interior in the garage.

 

Step 15
Give your self a pat on the back!

If this was helpful and you would like part two of the guide which includes, handle and door lock removal then hit the like button. I'll put the effort in and complete part two and get it posted. If this was helpful, again hit the like button as I can always make more guides on the MK1 platform.

I'd love to see pictures and hear your story on how you achieved this, so post your reply below!
 

Thank you!

 

Edited 28 April, 20205 yr by DeanVRS20VT

12 minutes ago, DeanVRS20VT said:

If this was helpful and you would like part two of the guide which includes, handle and door lock removal then hit the like button. I'll put the effort in and complete part two and get it posted. If this was helpful, again hit the like button as I can always make more guides on the MK1 platform.

 

An excellent write-up! Thanks!

 

Oh, and more please

 

Thanks for that informative post.

I've moved it to the Guides section and pinned it too.

nice write up, 3 things from experience doing it -

1- there are 2 torx screws are the bottom of the door card which can be removed before yanking the door card off.  takes some of the strain off it, also grabbing the door pocket gives a nice firm grip point along that bottom loosened end.

 

2 - a Stanley knife blade will cut open the casing of the oem  lock mech, reduces damage risk.

 

3 - a tip - I used 2 small size Allen keys for turning the cog. 1 to turn the cog and one to hold it in place - its sprung, so if you let go before its fully wound back it will reset.

 

bonus...

4 - when removing the cable to the outer grab handle count how threads are exposed and put the cable back in the same spot otherwise you'll find out when all is ressambled that the tension is wrong on the mechanism and it wont open again..

 

bonus bonus

5 - test the new mechanism with a screwdriver acting to close the latch a few times before you close the door.. lot easier snag your handiwork with the door open..

 

 

You can with patience and a pair of needle nosed pliers remove all the door card screws, or at least you could on my model.

 

Or at least I think that I did most of them at least, my memory is a depreciating asset.

Edited 28 April, 20205 yr by J.R.

On 28/04/2020 at 23:00, J.R. said:

You can with patience and a pair of needle nosed pliers remove all the door card screws

 

 

Edited 6 May6 May by Dean

Happened to me: Driver side rear door motor intermittent since early summer. I should have removed the lock then and converted it into manual use (not hard when it's on the table).

 

As a lazy guy I didn't and it gave up finally in late July. I had done some preparation, i.e. removal of screws from door panel, so removing it while door was closed, wasn't too hard.

 

But getting the door open took hammer, chisel, big pliers, side cutters, lot of curse words and 2 hours, eventually removing all the plastic parts on top of the metal parts. Got it open, removed the lock and noticed that I cant use it as manual lock as one of the pieces actually pressing the latch release got lost somewhere while hammering. Ouch. So no other options than buy a new lock

 

Fortunately those aren't expensive.

 

I did at some early point see that gear (step 12) but I managed to turn it from end to other and and no change; Still deadlocked so  I used brute force. It works in this case.

Edited 23 September, 20204 yr by Kharon

On 23/09/2020 at 22:59, Kharon said:

Happened to me: Driver side rear door motor intermittent since early summer. I should have removed the lock then and converted it into manual use (not hard when it's on the table).

 

Not even that: The motor itself *is not broken*. Also it's a quality product made by Mabuchi Motors so if you have this problem, it's most probably isn't the motor itself, but contact strips to the motor. 2p fault, buy a new lock.

 

Unfortunately I had to break whole lock to get door open, but it would have been totally fixable while it was intermittent. Saving a price of a new lock. Blah.

 

80e from FLAPs, cheapest ones from the net about 30 euros + freight + a week or so. Parts store got it for next day, can't complain too much. Metzger Autoteile says the box.

Edited 30 September, 20204 yr by Kharon
price added

Brilliant job by the OP, Dean: thank you!

 

Both the rear doors on my daughter's Mk I Octy were deadlocked shut. The method shown in pictures worked like a dream.

 

A few points I would make:

 

(1) Definitely get hold of the trim removal tools first, but don't be frightened to use a screwdriver when necessary.

 

(2) Make a colour printout of the instructions - the pictures will be much easier to see and understand.

 

(3) Wind the window all the way down before disconnecting the switch.

 

(4) No need for a dremel or similar to expose the cog: we drilled a few holes in the plastic casing and chopped a window into it with a small pair of offset wire cutters.

 

(5) Having done one door, the other one was very easy, because we knew exactly what to look for.

 

(6) We found that the door card clips popped apart (they are in two parts) with minimal damage, but when replacing the card, fit both parts of each clip to the door, then fasten the card in place with the Torx screws.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On 01/11/2021 at 13:56, Nepomuk said:

Brilliant job by the OP, Dean: thank you!

 

Both the rear doors on my daughter's Mk I Octy were deadlocked shut. The method shown in pictures worked like a dream.

Excellent! I'm so glad that you managed to fix it.

On 01/11/2021 at 13:56, Nepomuk said:

 

(4) No need for a dremel or similar to expose the cog: we drilled a few holes in the plastic casing and chopped a window into it with a small pair of offset wire cutters.

 

 

i used a stanley knife to cut through the plastic.. thats how soft it is, dont even need a drill

 

Thanks for this how-to. it works for the back doors too as I tested today. I havent got so far as un deadlocking it, but I have visual pointers on problems in the door, rather than hunches, so I can now work towards fixing them!

 

Cheers!

This s great, gong well so far. 

I am at step 12.  WHich direction do I need to eurn the toothed wheel please?

Also, how far does it need to be turned?

eventually the lock poped open, so  I disconnected the wiring to the lock and now it is in "manual" mode.  Electric windows still work.