2 hours ago, TheBinarySheep said:

I've just checked pressures, 60 PSI all around,

 

 😲  Holly ticking bomb Batman !!!

 

I've never heard of a normal car tyre tyre been blown to that pressure -  are you sure they're at 60psi ?

 

The 225/40  LOW PROFILE  tyres on my Karoq were very loud and the ride hard. They had been set at around 40psi at the factory. There's normally just one or two front passangers in our Karoq and golf clubs in the boot so I reduced them to 32psi and it sorted out both issues.

 

But 60psi...  SIXTY !!!!   Jeez, I'm struggling to believe it. And to think that the pressure will increase when you build up speed / the temp rises. OMG.

 

 

8 hours ago, newbie69 said:

235/40 is anything but low profile   

In fact it's meaty enough to make a 19" wheel look small, and is noticeable taller than a Golf GTI/R's stock 235/30/19, which isn't exactly extreme.

 

You can only really buy one size down from that here in the UK. Not sure what the Sweden is like but 235/30/19 isn't even an option for many tyre retailers here. Even specialists are only listing ONE 235/30/19 make of tyre.

 

Bet you don't use those during a Swedish winter otherwise it'll be your Waterloo and you'll be singing S.O.S. again.

 

 

 

 

Edited 1 June, 20206 yr by Guest

1 minute ago, Scot5 said:

You can only really buy one size down from that here in the UK. Not sure what the Sweden is like but 235/30/19 isn't even an option for many tyre retailers here. Even specialists are only listing ONE 235/30/19 make of tyre.

 

Typo! This was meant to be 235/35

I run 235/45/18 for winters, a sorry look... 

32 minutes ago, TheBinarySheep said:

 

To be fair, I had no idea that tyre pressures has that kind of impact, and reading these forums I'm not the only one that thinks that the ride is bouncy, so I had no reason to suspect that tyre pressures may be the cause. 

I'm going to drop the pressures and see what impact it has. 

Not meant to be overly critical here, and we all learn as we go, but buying a new car (let alone used) and not checking tire pressures for 2-3 months (regardless of whether it's a Skoda or a Porsche) is a bit on the careless side, although strange circumstances can come to all of us and I can understand that.

As said, 60psi (if that's right) is crazy high and only proves that you need to be checking these yourself. Not something hard or needing special knowledge either. Hopefully you'll see some improvement after you let some of all that air out although that's not to say that even on correct pressures there's no room for handling improvement, far from it.

28 minutes ago, Scot5 said:

 

 😲  Holly ticking bomb Batman !!!

 

I've never heard of a normal car tyre tyre been blown to that pressure -  are you sure they're at 60psi ?

 

The 225/40  LOW PROFILE  tyres on my Karoq were very loud and the ride hard. They had been set at around 40psi at the factory. There's normally just one or two front passangers in our Karoq and golf clubs in the boot so I reduced them to 32psi and it sorted out both issues.

 

But 60psi...  SIXTY !!!!   Jeez, I'm struggling to believe it. And to think that the pressure will increase when you build up speed / the temp rises. OMG.

 

 

 

I've dropped the pressures down, and I've ordered another pressure monitor so I can double check them tomorrow.

12 minutes ago, newbie69 said:

Not meant to be overly critical here, and we all learn as we go, but buying a new car (let alone used) and not checking tire pressures for 2-3 months (regardless of whether it's a Skoda or a Porsche) is a bit on the careless side, although strange circumstances can come to all of us and I can understand that.

As said, 60psi (if that's right) is crazy high and only proves that you need to be checking these yourself. Not something hard or needing special knowledge either. Hopefully you'll see some improvement after you let some of all that air out although that's not to say that even on correct pressures there's no room for handling improvement, far from it.

 

I didn't bother checking because all tyre pressures looked visually fine, and I thought that the car would inform me if there was an issue with pressures, although I understand now that the system doesn't work like that.

 

In 20 years of driving I've only ever checked pressures if something didn't feel right, or if a tyre looked deflated.

Just my tuppence. 

Any vehicle i have done a PDI on when it was delivered had the tyres at as near as damn at 50 psi for transportation.

Commonly when a PDI is incorrectly done they will be handed over at that.

 

When pressures get set high as in to extremes it can be people misunderstanding PSI / Bar / kPa

 

PS

Tyre Pressure Monitoring Systems do require the tyres to be set at a pressure and then the TPMS reset.

If the car has TP read outs then good and well. Otherwise it is warning that you get when the system notices a difference in the tyres circumference.

Edited 1 June, 20206 yr by Roottootemblowinootsoot

9 minutes ago, TheBinarySheep said:

 

In 20 years of driving I've only ever checked pressures if something didn't feel right, or if a tyre looked deflated.

 

It is good practice to check the pressures if you feel the car isn't behaving. It's also important (probably more so) to check them as a minimum as the seasons change. Many people would have left their cars since March in 'winter mode' so the pressure may have dropped (or not) then the heat recently will give false high pressure.

 

3 minutes ago, Roottootemblowinootsoot said:

 

When pressures get set high as in to extremes it can be people misunderstanding PSI / Bar / kPa

 

This is a big issue. Why they insist on putting kPa as well as bar I have no idea. A mate called me once saying he couldn't pump his bike tyres up and thought the pump was bust. Turns out he was going for 40 bar!

17 minutes ago, TheBinarySheep said:

 

I didn't bother checking because all tyre pressures looked visually fine, and I thought that the car would inform me if there was an issue with pressures, although I understand now that the system doesn't work like that.

 

In 20 years of driving I've only ever checked pressures if something didn't feel right, or if a tyre looked deflated.

Getting a good tyre pressure gauge is worthwhile. I've got an old Halfords analogue one (that they don't sell anymore) which seems quite accurate. I cross-checked it against a mate's 'traceable to National Standards' one, and it seemeds I could tell, to be spot on.

 

The digital tyre inflators at fuel stations aren't all that reliable. Sometimes they are alright-ish and sometimes -rarely- they aren't.

 

Err, of course then you have to use them.

Digital Tyre Inflators at Service Station that you pay 20 or 50 pence to use are calibrated, so if you ever use one then check with a professional tyre gauge and it is wrong then report it.

There is a Corporate Responsibility of that Multinational that has taken your cash money to provide safe services.

It is not like some 'Free air inflator' on an old wheel screwed to a wall beside a Wash / Tyre bay.

I got so tired of pulling into a station and finding that the air pump was "out of order" that I bought a Michelin foot pump at Halfords. Sits in the boot under the flap. I now find I check my pressures much more often than I used to do. Must have paid for itself by now.

3 minutes ago, freelunch said:

I got so tired of pulling into a station and finding that the air pump was "out of order" that I bought a Michelin foot pump at Halfords. Sits in the boot under the flap. I now find I check my pressures much more often than I used to do. Must have paid for itself by now.

+1 For the Michelin double foot pump seems pretty accurate and had it for many years.

I have a ryobi inflator. Carry it around most of the time. 

I have one of the Michelin double-barrel ones and the pump seems good. On the other hand, the meter needs tapping to get a consistent reading.

New tyre gauge arrived today, it's reading is nowhere near what my pump says. So even though my pump yesterday said 60 PSI, it looks like it was actual around 36 ish. To double check though, I've been to the garage today to use their pump and confirmed that it's reading the same as the new gauge.

 

So at least I know tyre pressures are not the cause of my problem, and I'll keep a regular eye on pressures in future.

Bicycle track pumps ( the vertical ones)  have been my goto for a few years now. Realised I must be old as I grew up to check tyres and fluids before long drives and its part of that 'making it mine' process of getting a new (to me) car. 

60psi. Maybe the previous owner was into drifting? Half the contact patch of 30psi. 

One thing that is very important is to use the same device every time. That way if it is 1 or 2 out it's at least consistent.

Had the koni's and rear arb fitted yesterday.

Money well spent as far as I'm concerned. No more bouncing 👍 and it feels like a new car.

2 hours ago, Bigeater said:

Had the koni's and rear arb fitted yesterday.

Money well spent as far as I'm concerned. No more bouncing 👍 and it feels like a new car.

 

In what ways has it improved? Hows cornering? Has there been any negative impact on ride comfort?

3 hours ago, TheBinarySheep said:

 

In what ways has it improved? Hows cornering? Has there been any negative impact on ride comfort?

 

That 'boaty' feeling has definitely gone. No more bouncing after going over speed humps. I now hit the speed bumps and the shock is absorbed straight away - none of the 2 or 3 bounces anymore. And its not too harsh a ride either. Just right I would say.

No more worrying about the car drifting away at cornering either.

I've not had chance to test the braking on rough surfaces yet, but I have every confidence it will have improved if all of the above are anything to go by.

I am a happy bunny - If only penguin17 would return to give us the dimensions on his golf r estate backboxes, then that would make my day 🙂

1 hour ago, Bigeater said:

 

That 'boaty' feeling has definitely gone. No more bouncing after going over speed humps. I now hit the speed bumps and the shock is absorbed straight away - none of the 2 or 3 bounces anymore. And its not too harsh a ride either. Just right I would say.

No more worrying about the car drifting away at cornering either.

I've not had chance to test the braking on rough surfaces yet, but I have every confidence it will have improved if all of the above are anything to go by.

I am a happy bunny - If only penguin17 would return to give us the dimensions on his golf r estate backboxes, then that would make my day 🙂

 

Thanks, very helpful.

I have my car booked in for it's 2 year service at the end of the month, so I'm waiting to get that out of the way before I commit to getting the shocks done.

BTW, which ARB did you fit?

32 minutes ago, TheBinarySheep said:

 

Thanks, very helpful.

I have my car booked in for it's 2 year service at the end of the month, so I'm waiting to get that out of the way before I commit to getting the shocks done.

BTW, which ARB did you fit?

 

This one https://clptuning.co.uk/product/hr-rear-anti-roll-bar-volkswagen-golf-mk7-r/

On 05/06/2020 at 15:38, Bigeater said:

 

That 'boaty' feeling has definitely gone. No more bouncing after going over speed humps. I now hit the speed bumps and the shock is absorbed straight away - none of the 2 or 3 bounces anymore.

That's a very useful comment as that is exactly what happens on a stock Sportline with DCC Sport mode and I've written it in some posts of mine a while back: Going over speed bumps even at average speed the car will only rebound once as you go over it and settle immediately, doesn't happen in any other mode, Normal usually allows a second smaller bounce and Comfort can even allow a minor third one. 

It essentially confirms my (strong) suspicion so far, that the non-DCC suspension, even on Sportlines, couldn't have possibly been tuned as firm as the DCC's firmer setting in Sport as that would take away a bit of the all-round comfort and I understand very well the complaints about standard suspension cars which sound closer to DCC's Normal mode: it's not the best for some sporty driving (i only use it when the whole family is in).

Would be very interesting to compare a non-DCC on Konis vs a DCC in Sport (provided they are both in stock springs) to see how they compare, my guess is they are pretty close (solid dampening without bounicng but not a punishing ride).

Coupled with the cornering improvement (ain't the H&R great? ) I bet it feels like you drive a real sports variant now 

Edited 6 June, 20205 yr by newbie69

Is there a reason why people are only fitting a rear ARB? I read somewhere that you should change both or it could introduce understeer? Or is that only application when your driving on track?

56 minutes ago, TheBinarySheep said:

Is there a reason why people are only fitting a rear ARB? I read somewhere that you should change both or it could introduce understeer? Or is that only application when your driving on track?

I doubt that was written somewhere, it's the opposite of what you describe in fact: if you upgrade the the rear arb you are effectively reducing understeer.

There is no golden rule, different cars require different approaches (rear arb only, front arb only, both) you have to think of what you want to achieve by upgrading them and what is the stock behaviour on the car you're working on.

In the particular case of the Superb which is AWD but behaves more like a FWD, there is under-steer dialed in from factory and ideally you would like to shift it towards a more neutral behavior where the front end will not push wide as early and the rear end will more actively help the car rotate. To do this you only need to touch the rear one (because a stiffer rear arb reduces underteer). If you do both you have a much stiffer car which is probably ok on the track but you switch back the balance to the stock undesteer behaviour.