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Gearbox becomes really stiff after long drive


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Hello to all,

 

I have a weird problem with my Skoda Octavia 1.9 tdi 2007

Current mileage is 170,000 . Car has been remapped to abou 130bhp from the standard 105bhp

When starting the car in the morning the gearbox is fine, smooth gear changes and no issues. However, after driving for about half an hour the gearbox becomes really stiff, eventually i'm having to force the gear change. If the car is left idle for an hour the gearbox is fine again.

I've looked into changing the gearbox oil but have been told that the 1.9 tdi have lifelong oil in them. One mechanic said so change the DMF and clutch, but as this is a costly repair I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction.

I've stopped using the car as I don't want to damage the gear box.

Any help would be apprciated.

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Welcome.  

No car fluids that are life long means the average life of humans.

Sometimes not even the 'Life' of a VW vehicle.

 

The DQ200 DSG has 2 oils and filled for life & there is no Manufacturers Guidelines or Service  Schedule, but you can still change the oils.

 

As can be done with Manual Boxes. On a 13 year old vehicle what the worst that can happen actually changing the oil?

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Try the oil as a cheap fix, if it’s never been done before then it’s a good idea to change it anyway.

 

but I wouldn’t discount the clutch failing either.

 

another option would be to bleed the clutch slave cylinder as well, if bleeding the slave cylinder and oil change doesn’t cure it then the clutch would be my next port of call.

 

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5 minutes ago, Vrsburnzy said:

Try the oil as a cheap fix, if it’s never been done before then it’s a good idea to change it anyway.

 

but I wouldn’t discount the clutch failing either.

 

another option would be to bleed the clutch slave cylinder as well, if bleeding the slave cylinder and oil change doesn’t cure it then the clutch would be my next port of call.

 

I've read that the brake cylinder shares the same line as the clutch cylinder, if so then I had the brakes bled 2 months ago when I changed the brake disk and pads. Going to try change the oil, but can't find the right one online. Rang TPS and they quoted £25 for 2 litres, but none in stock.

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The brake fluid reservoir is the same reservoir that feeds the clutch, they should of done the clutch at the same time, but it wouldn’t hurt to open the bleed nipple with a hose attached and see if the fluid comes out clear without air.

 

a pressure bleeder would be better but most the time a clutch slave cylinder will slowly gravity bleed itself, or a helpful assistant to press the pedal if there is one available using the old school method of pumping the pedal whilst opening and closing the nipple.

 

vag gearbox oil is very thin and the gearboxes can be funny with none genuine oil, I know Fuchs Titan sintofluid iirc is regarded as a good oil to use without issues, making sure it’s fully synthetic and the right grade will help a lot though, or at least conforms with the gearbox oil standard for your gearbox.

 

 

 

 

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I've changed the clutch fluid today, didn't make a difference. Going to try change the gearbox oil next. Thanks for the help so far. 

 

 

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I would do the procedure to reset the cables and lubricate them and the female sockets before re-assembly, I dont hold out a lot of hope for the gearbox fluid change resolving the stiffness but it can only do the gearbox itself good.

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How hard is it to change the gearbox oil? Been searching but cannot find a guide on how to do it on a 1.9 tdi mk2. Is it the same as a mk1 or similar. Any advice before I get started. 

Thanks 

 

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55 minutes ago, gidi19 said:

How hard is it to change the gearbox oil? Been searching but cannot find a guide on how to do it on a 1.9 tdi mk2. Is it the same as a mk1 or similar. Any advice before I get started. 

Thanks 

 

It's pretty easy, just done it myself recently. From the research I did you need to fill it through the reverse light sensor hole as the gearbox is mounted at an angle where you can't get the correct amount of oil in the proper fill hole, I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but this is what I found from researching the job. 

You need to get the car jacked up and the undertray off. The drain on the bottom of the gearbox is a 17mm allen key. Wear gloves as the old oil stinks! You need to remove the air box to access the reverse light switch. If you are resetting the linkages I would remove the battery and tray aswell to give yourself enough room to work in. Remove the connector from the reverse sensor then use a deep 22mm socket to remove it. Replace the drain plug once completely emptied. Add your oil, 1.9 litres was the amount I was told to put in, using a funnel and small enough pipe. Put everything back together and job done, doesn't take too long, the longest part is draining and refilling the oil. The oil spec I found for that gearbox is 75w gl4. 

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1 minute ago, gidi19 said:

Hi, 

Thanks for the reply. Please forgive me for asking but what is the reverse light sensor hole? 

Thanks 

The sensor screws into the top of the gearbox, when you remove it there is a threaded hole which you can use to add the oil

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Hi, 

Right, makes more sense now. So to summarise remove air box, locate reverse sensor, remove sensor, use hole to fill gearbox oil, after draining from drain plug. 

Thanks 

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6 minutes ago, gidi19 said:

Hi, 

Right, makes more sense now. So to summarise remove air box, locate reverse sensor, remove sensor, use hole to fill gearbox oil, after draining from drain plug. 

Thanks 

In a nut shell that's it, just remember not to over tighten the drain plug when you refit it

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Hi all, 

 

Quick update. Did the gearbox oil change. Took it for a 2 hour drive today and unfortunately problem still exists. 

However, I've noticed that if I blast the heaters on full temperature the stiffness goes down. Is it just wishful thinking or is it possible the oil or something is getting hot causing the issue and once it cools down its fine? 

Thanks 

 

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On 05/06/2020 at 00:41, J.R. said:

I would do the procedure to reset the cables and lubricate them and the female sockets before re-assembly, I dont hold out a lot of hope for the gearbox fluid change resolving the stiffness but it can only do the gearbox itself good.

 

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Hi all, 

 

Is there anything else I can try? 

The DMF doesn't rattle, doesn't make any noise, seems fine. I'm really hesitant to have it replaced only to find out it wasn't the clutch all along. 

Thanks 

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On 15/06/2020 at 11:33, chrisund123 said:

How much oil did you put in when you changed it?

 

Is the clutch dragging? If you put your foot on the clutch does it disengage fully?

Hi, 

I put in exactly the same amount that came out. 

Clutch is fine. No noticeable issues with the clutch. 

Did find a thread with similar problems. Poster advised to clean the gear linkages with emery paper as they get filled with gunk over time. Going to try that next. 

Mrs couldnt shift the gears so drove the car for 5 miles using only the 3rd gear. 

The horror 

 

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2 hours ago, gidi19 said:

Hi, 

I put in exactly the same amount that came out. 

Clutch is fine. No noticeable issues with the clutch. 

Did find a thread with similar problems. Poster advised to clean the gear linkages with emery paper as they get filled with gunk over time. Going to try that next. 

Mrs couldnt shift the gears so drove the car for 5 miles using only the 3rd gear. 

The horror 

 

 

Did you measure how much came out? It sounds like the oil level is low.

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  • 2 years later...

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