The alternator is charging a variable current on a regulated voltage.

Normal voltage on battery should be 13.5 V - 14 V without electrical loads at idle.

Check first for proper contact on battery ground cable, alternator housing contact to ground, positive alternator cable contact to battery positive plot.

Maximum voltage drop on any contact should be around 0.1 V under load.

If there are no contact issues, replace the voltage regulator.

If still no luck, the alternator has an internal issue.

Edited 6 July, 20205 yr by RicardoM

""Maximum voltage drop on any contact should be around 0.1 V under load.""

I guess this sentence will show me the truth.

Because,

when I turn on the lights or the radiator fan is running, my temperature gauge goes up a bit but if i close it falls.

(I guess there is a problem with the battery or battery ground wire)

Edited 6 July, 20205 yr by mturgut

So my Fav has been running good for a while now, drives good but I'm having a problem where it wont start hot, need to crank it for a bit and hold the throttle open for a few seconds and then it slowly starts up. I have replaced my carb base gasket again, got my hands on a metal plate one because the rubber ones just seem too sketchy to me. Also replaced the idle cutoff valve. If I drive it around and shut it off, it doesnt want to start up. Fires up cold no problem. Any ideas?

It is a typical issue of any type of carburetor. The fuel vapors create a very rich mixture while the engine is stopped in hot weather. That mixture can't ignite. As soon as the vapors clear off, you're good.

I recommend flooring the throttle pedal easy before starting the engine, cranking a while (5-6 seconds) , stopping, waiting for 5 seconds, releasing the pedal, cranking again.

It helps also if the cooling system works perfectly and the engine is not overheat before stopping the car. The wave of heat in summer across Europe started to make mandatory a thermostat and a radiator fan thermo-valve for tropical countries.

As Ricardo says above.

 

Also, if the rubber block that should be between the carburetor and the inlet manifold is missing, or the air cleaner is set to the "Winter" position, these will make fuel vapourisation worse.

Thanks for the info, I just find it weird because this never happened on my old Favorit and it was a really beat up and neglected one. I do feel like it is running a bit rich - black condensation from the exhaust and sometimes when I want to accelerate from a stop theres no response from the gas, kicks in like a second later.

1 hour ago, KenONeill said:

As Ricardo says above.

 

Also, if the rubber block that should be between the carburetor and the inlet manifold is missing, or the air cleaner is set to the "Winter" position, these will make fuel vapourisation worse.

 

Winter mode?

1 hour ago, chargerbandit said:

 

Winter mode?

Drawing intake air over the exhaust manifold, rather than from the cold intake.

Looked at the intake pipe and turns out something broke inside of it so the flap was always sucking in exhaust air so I just permanently set it to closed, seems to help a lot. Still a bit rich I feel because I can smell it.