How to change the oil on a Haldex 5th Gen.

[Bap33]

 Hi all 

 

The Superb Mk3 AWD is fitted with a 5th generation Haldex. Regarding VAG Group, and Skoda in particular, it also equips: Octavia 3, Superb 2, Karoq, Kodiaq.

It may also apply to Scala and Kamiq, unless they're equipped with 6th generation. I actually don't know for these latter.

 

Since I have limited trust in garages in my neighborhood and because I like 'DIYing' on my car, I've decided to change the oil of my Haldex system on my own. 

 

If one follows Skoda recommendations, workshop manuals (see cardiagn.com) only mention a simple oil replacement every 3 years and that's it!

But when you start diving into documentations or in youtube videos about 5th gen Haldex, you can notice that the oil pump has an intern strainer, which trends to get really dirty, whereas it's never cleaned !

Hence, here is this humble tutorial ! I apologize, if there are any vocabulary issues... I'm French. 

 

Firstly, here are all elements, that we're going to look at:

 

#13 : Bleeder screw (M10x30) - P/N N 910 827 01 (tightening torque 38 Nm for Superb Mk3, but on other VAG model it may be 32Nm - Have a look to the workshop manual corresponding to your car. See cardiagn.com)

#14 : Filler screw (M10x1x10) - P/N  N 902 818 02 (tightening torque 15 Nm)

#3 : Retaining screw (M6X35) for the Haldex Control Unit - P/N N 105 540 05 (tightening torque 9,5 Nm)

#11 : Retaining screw (M6X35) for the Haldex hydraulic pump - P/N N 105 540 05 (tightening torque 9,5 Nm)

#9 : O-rings for the pump - P/N 0CQ 598 305 (⚠️Note : This P/N is a kit, which includes both O-rings, but also both retaining screw #11! Don't by these screws twice!) 

 

Gear Oil :

According to ifinterface.com:

P/N G 065 175 A2

 

or

 

According to what dealer sold me:

P/N G 60 175 A2 - 850 ml (~29.9 fl oz)

 

By the way, don't forget to check that the oil can actually contains 850ml through the gauge on the side of the can. Indeed, just for the short story, the oil can I had bought only contained 750ml, though brand new and still crimped  . I had to go back to the dealer to exchange the oil can.

The requested volume for the maintenance operation is usually around 700-720 ml (24.6-25.3 fl oz), thus it leaves little room for error (and even less if the can is not filled correctly).

 

The total bill was ~75 € for all parts (without screws #3, which you don't need to change).

 

- Difficulty : 2

- Time needed : 1h30 approx.

- Number of person needed : 1

- Necessary tools :

¤ Screws #3 and #11 : Torx T30 or 10mm Hex socket, if you don't have Torx

¤ Screw #13 : 8mm Hex

¤ Screw #14 : 5 mm Hex

¤ For Hydraulic pump strainer screws : Torx T10

¤ Ratchet or classic wrenches for disassembly

¤ Torque wrench(es) to apply specified torques: (9,5 / 15 / 38 Nm)

¤ Short and intermediate extensions for ratchet or torque wrenches to enable easier access to screws

¤ A small flat screwdriver

¤ Oil drip tray

¤ Rags

¤ 1 wooden toothpick

¤ Lifting means

¤ Syringe for oil filling

 

Dealing with the syringe, I've bought this one for  20-25€ on Amazon. It makes the job perfectly!

 

Step #0 : Preparation

You need to lift the car high enough to get under the car and to get enough space to move your arms comfortably. In my case, 370mm (~14.5") of ground clearance were enough.

 

Note: Though you've lifted the car, it needs to remain horizontal to make a proper filling with right oil level (see step 5).

If this case, I had to compensate the natural slope of the ground.

 

Step #1 : Oil draining

Start with the filler screw (#14 / blue square) removal for more safety. Indeed, if it's stuck, you won't be "snooked", with a completely empty Haldex oil tank and no way to refill it.  

Once you've removed the filler screw. Don't get rid of it immediately. You'll need it again temporarily for Step #4!

Now, you can remove the bleeder screw (#13 / red circle).

There's no difficulty to remove these 2 screws.

 

There are 2 good news for this step:

- The drain screw is long enough, so that you won't get surprised, when the thread gets totally disengaged from the housing.

- Even if the drain screw has an horizontal axis, there's only a small quantity of oil, and since it is very fluid, it flows well vertically from the edge of the hole. Little chance of getting trapped with the oil, which flows suddenly and farther than the drip tray. Phew!  

 

However, it takes several minutes to really let all the oil drain:

 

Step #2 : Hydraulic pump removal

Whereas oil is still dripping, start removing 2 retaining screws (#3) for the Haldex Control Unit. They are quite easy to access with a small 1/4'" ratchet.

 

After that, you can rotate the Haldex Control Unit, to bring the connectors on the top upside down. This simple operation will help you saving a huuuuuuge amount of time  ! But this tip is explained / told nowhere!!! Otherwise, you will have to disconnect the pump connector 'blind'... And if you do this operation for the first time, You hardly understand how to proceed. Decency leads me to shut up the time that I spent trying to remove this µ%£$@&#  connector before I changed my mind on the operating process. 

 

Pump connector before Control Unit removal :

 

Once the 2 retaining screws of the Control Unit have been removed, you can easily access to the connector:

Now simply insert a small screwdriver in the notch (red circle) and push in the arrow direction. Very simple... 

 

Then, you need to unclip the black plastic wire protection, which keeps the pump wiring away from the propeller shaft. It's clipped in 2 locations on each side of the shaft,

You just need to pinch the 2 lugs at their end to make them go back through the hole in the housing.

 

Left side (Control Unit side) :

The upper red circle in the mirror shows what you hardly see in the lower dotted circle... It's clearly the circled part, that has to be pinched and then pushed/pulled in the arrow direction.

 

Right side (pump side), just proceed the same way :

 

The pump wire is now fully free. You can now remove the 2 retaining screws (#11) of the hydraulic pump (#10). Very easy too.

 

Warning  from this point, it will be 'Apocalypse pump'  ! Please keep children and sensitive souls away from following pictures!

Pull in the pump axis direction, while rotating it around its axis in one direction and then the other to ease the removal. Be very careful, when the pump is about to get out completely, not to strike the contact surface of the housing, nor to strike the pump strainer. FYI, the strainer is not sold alone. It's sold with the pump, which approximately costs 180-200 € (w/o VAT) ! 

 

And there, under your dumbfounded eyes , here is the sinister spectacle that awaits you:

A strainer almost entirely clogged with sh**t!

And the pump housing is not even better...

FYI, this Haldex is only 2.5 years old and has only 45000 km (~28000 mi) on the clock. And considering the way I use my car, I don't think the Haldex faces a heavy duty use.

 

Therefore, as I already mentioned somewhere on this forum, one can only notice that the oil replacement process in the maintenance manual for the Haldex 5th generation is clearly incomplete  !

By the way, look at this video below from ~28 mn, you'll see the impact of the strainer cleaning on the pump demand signal ... It's clearly a proof that w/o a strainer cleaning, the pump unnecessarily faces severe conditions  and that sooner or latter there's a risk of pump failure... 

 

Step #3 : Pump cleaning and reassembly

Since the pump is now removed, you need to remove the strainer. Use a Torx T10 for both screws:

 

Then wipe the pump dry with a rag, being careful not to get the dirt into the ports.

Fort the strainer, a cleaning with some white spirit and a soft paintbrush. But be careful, not to brush to hard to avoid tearing the strainer mesh, which is very thin!!! Eventually, a simple soaking in a small glass of white wine ... sorry , I mean... White Spirit  should help removing most of the dirt and finishing finely with the paintbrush.

Let the strainer dry, while you remove both O-rings around the pump, using a wooden toothpick as a lever. It will avoid hurting the grooves.

You can now, clean the area between both grooves with white spirit.

Once everything is clean, you can mount the strainer back onto the pump. Be careful ⚠️ ! I didn't find any information about their tightening torque.

Thus be sure to tighten enough to firmly place the strainer on the pump body (to make a good seal against dirt), but not too hard to avoid risks of cracking the plastic. Shall I remind you the price of the pump, just in case   ?!?

 

Now, pour some drops of fresh oil in a small container. By the way, FYI :

Haldex used Oil 2.5 years old & 28000 mi on the clock / Haldex fresh oil

 

Put few oil drops on both O-rings to lubricate them and install them onto the pump. Keep using the wooden toothpick if needed.

The pump is now ready to be mounted back onto the car :

 

Now, you can clean the housing with rags before putting the pump back in place:

Don't forget the bearing surface, where the threads of the retaining screws are located. Here you can see some dirt left, that I removed right after taking the picture...  

 

You can now put the pump back into the housing. Be careful, not to pinch both O-rings .

Once there's only 5-6mm (1/5 -1/4") between bearing surfaces of the pump and the housing, it gets a bit harder to push in by hand. This is probably caused by O-rings, which may act as a slight "bead" to efficiently seal. You now realize how clever it is, to lubricate both O-rings to prevent them from rolling inside out and to make this operation even more difficult.

 

When the pump stops into the housing, you can put 2 retaining screws back in place (#3 - tightening torque = 9,5 mm)

 

Put the black palstic pump wire protection in the correction position and clip it into both holes. Be careful, you still work 'blind' (unless you have a small mirror) . 

Reconnect the pump connector on the Haldex Control Unit and rotate the Haldex in its normal position. Watch out to rotate the Control Unit in the correct direction not to twist unnecessarily the pump wire. 

Put both retaining screws to fix the control unit (#3 - tightening torque = 9,5 Nm). For the lower screw, the propeller shaft flector is slightly in the way and leads you to put the bit with a small angle. But you can still manage to have enough grip with the bit to tighten.

 

You can now install the new bleeder screw (#13 - tightening torque = 38 Nm). 

 

Step #4 :  Oil filling

According to the workshop manual, the filling shall be performed with an oil temperature between 20°C and 40°C (68°F / 104°F). If the ambient temperature is to low, put the oil can in a bucket filled with hot water for a while to bring the oil at the right temperature.

You can now inject fresh oil in the filling hole (see blue square, on the 5th picture) with the syringe. You have to fill with oil, until it overflows. This should be approximately 650ml (~22 fl oz).

Put the OLD filler screw back in place temporarily and tight it slightly. Yes, you've been told to keep it upon removal at step #1! Do you remember?   !

 

Etape 5 : Oil level adjustment and ending

Start the engine and let it run for ~1mn, to let the hydraulic pump fill with oil correctly.

Shut the engine down, then remove the old filler screw again (#14 / still the blue square on the 5th picture ). 

Top up with oil until it overflows again, and you can put the new filler screw to finalize the operation (#14 - tightening torque 15 Nm).

 

That's it! 

Fresh oil! Clean pump strainer! Happy Skoda owner! ...    You can put the car back onto the floor now !  

 

Now it's up to you!  

Edited 15 April, 2021 by cheezemonkhai

[J.R.]

I have only just seen this, you wont believe how much time I spent working blind (which I am quite good at) trying to remove the connector from the control unit and then still being unable to remove the pump because of the upper cable clip which I could feel but not see and could not remove.

 

I had to strain the cable to disengage the pump and then to clean it in situ hanging on the cable.

 

It was before this was posted so I dont feel quite so bad but will be saving this as a favorite for next time.

 

The tip about rotating the controller is inspired.

 

Chapeau à vous Monsieur!

[Bap33]

@J.R. Happy to help you for the next time. Thanks for your feedback.  

[ChrisCh]

Great guide!

 

I changed the Haldex oil and cleaned the filter earlier in the year (at 40,000 miles). It was well worth the clean as the pump was quite sludgy:

 

[amateurdad]

Amazing guide, thanks @Bap33!

 

Is this what I'm looking for to do a haldex service on a 2018 Superb 280?

 

https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/service-kit/generation-5-haldex-oil-service-kit-for-vw-audi-seat-skoda-vehicles/

 

Thanks 

Michael 

[Bap33]

@amateurdad Your link (after a very quick glance) looks OK.

To be sure, just have a look to this online ETKA: ifinterface.com

 

Just use this path:

Welcome > Free services > CarProg2

Then use drop down menus to select what correspond to your car (brand / Europ / Model / MY).

Then select the main menu ( should be in module 5: Transmission) and then sub menus on the right to find out...

Just check this kit complies with all OEM references.  

 

Have fun!

 

[newbie69]

Getting ready for doing mine for the first time, great guide and fully detailed! Just a few questions:

a) the oil filling syringe, the link is dead but in any case it's impossible to find the same item in different countries so what pipe diameter is needed for that? any specs?

b) when removing the syringe after the 1st fill (up to ~650ml) for priming the pump, don't you get a mess from oil spilling out since it's already full? should you take extra care during that step and the next one when switching from syringe to the new fill plug to avoid having the oil leaking all over?

c) I see no mention of "pump basic setting" after the oil change and cleaning. According to some resources this is vital to reset the pump to "as new" condition and make it "forget" the previously stored voltage/current parameters due to the (previously) dirty screen.

Or is it only a problem in completely clogged cases?  I do have OBDEleleven and I have located the function so I will be doing it according to the following instructions I found in a Golf R page but I was just curious as to how others have proceeded...


Again thanks for the comprehensive write-up 

PS. I also think the p/n for the Haldex oil is wrong? Google doesn't return any results for "G 60 175 S2"  and also in your pictures the p/n on the bottle reads "G 060 175 A2" instead, typo I guess?!

 

Edited 12 April, 2021 by newbie69

[Bap33]

 

Hej min vän @newbie69  

 

Sorry for the time response. Good thing that you MPed me!

 

On 12/04/2021 at 16:59, newbie69 said:

Getting ready for doing mine for the first time, great guide and fully detailed! Just a few questions:

a) the oil filling syringe, the link is dead but in any case it's impossible to find the same item in different countries so what pipe diameter is needed for that? any specs?

[...]

 

Here is the syringe I've bought:

https://www.amazon.fr/Sealey-VS404-seringue-dinspection-fluides/dp/B00BTYPBP0/ref=sr_1_5?__mk_fr_FR=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&dchild=1&keywords=pompe+à+graisse+sealey&qid=1618515568&sr=8-5

The hose is approximately 1cm diameter.

 

On 12/04/2021 at 16:59, newbie69 said:

[...]

b) when removing the syringe after the 1st fill (up to ~650ml) for priming the pump, don't you get a mess from oil spilling out since it's already full? should you take extra care during that step and the next one when switching from syringe to the new fill plug to avoid having the oil leaking all over?

[...]

Actually, since there are graduations on the syringe, you know when you're about to reach 650ml and you can anticipate when it should starting spilling out. Thus, no risk of being "showered" with Haldex oil...  Same thing with 2nd top up.

Of course prepare some rags, just in case and a cardboard to protect your floor from stains if needed. This oil also smells strong. Your working area may smell Haldex Oil for a while if you don't protect your floor.

But it's not a big deal...

 

On 12/04/2021 at 16:59, newbie69 said:

[...]

c) I see no mention of "pump basic setting" after the oil change and cleaning. According to some resources this is vital to reset the pump to "as new" condition and make it "forget" the previously stored voltage/current parameters due to the (previously) dirty screen.

Or is it only a problem in completely clogged cases?  I do have OBDEleleven and I have located the function so I will be doing it according to the following instructions I found in a Golf R page but I was just curious as to how others have proceeded...

[...]

Actually, you're pointing something interesting.

When I did it, I didn't find any advice about this. But recently the french VAG website from which I got most of my information had released a specific web page, were they describe how to prime the pump properly with VCDS:

https://www.vag-perf.fr/preparation-chassis/transmission/procedure-vcds-pour-lamorcage-de-la-pompe-dhaldex-lors-de-la-vidange/

See § 3.3 in particular.

I know, it's in french, but... Google tanslate is you're friend.  Fortunately the snapshots are from an english VCDS version. More seriously, if needed, MP me if you want me to translate some paragraphs of this web page.

 

But concretely, it's only a way to check that the priming procedure went OK. There's no setting to do, at least according to this website. I don't know what about the Gold R page you're referring to. I assume the priming operation could enable the Haldex Controller to reset the control parameters on its own. But It's only a guess. 

 

On 12/04/2021 at 16:59, newbie69 said:

[...]
Again thanks for the comprehensive write-up 

PS. I also think the p/n for the Haldex oil is wrong? Google doesn't return any results for "G 60 175 S2"  and also in your pictures the p/n on the bottle reads "G 060 175 A2" instead, typo I guess?!

 

 

Oups! You're right for the oil P/N reference . A mistyping indeed!

I'll ask a moderator to correct it.  

 

 

The procedure you've pasted seems a bit more complete. But as you can see there's no really setting to do. It's only a test performed twice and then potential fault codes cleaning...

 

Now, it's up to you! And please make your feedbacks once done!

Enjoy and take care! 

 

[newbie69]

On 15/04/2021 at 22:29, Bap33 said:

 

Hej min vän @newbie69  

 

Sorry for the time response. Good thing that you MPed me!

 

 

Here is the syringe I've bought:

https://www.amazon.fr/Sealey-VS404-seringue-dinspection-fluides/dp/B00BTYPBP0/ref=sr_1_5?__mk_fr_FR=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&dchild=1&keywords=pompe+à+graisse+sealey&qid=1618515568&sr=8-5

The hose is approximately 1cm diameter.

 

Actually, since there are graduations on the syringe, you know when you're about to reach 650ml and you can anticipate when it should starting spilling out. Thus, no risk of being "showered" with Haldex oil...  Same thing with 2nd top up.

Of course prepare some rags, just in case and a cardboard to protect your floor from stains if needed. This oil also smells strong. Your working area may smell Haldex Oil for a while if you don't protect your floor.

But it's not a big deal...

 

Actually, you're pointing something interesting.

When I did it, I didn't find any advice about this. But recently the french VAG website from which I got most of my information had released a specific web page, were they describe how to prime the pump properly with VCDS:

https://www.vag-perf.fr/preparation-chassis/transmission/procedure-vcds-pour-lamorcage-de-la-pompe-dhaldex-lors-de-la-vidange/

See § 3.3 in particular.

I know, it's in french, but... Google tanslate is you're friend.  Fortunately the snapshots are from an english VCDS version. More seriously, if needed, MP me if you want me to translate some paragraphs of this web page.

 

But concretely, it's only a way to check that the priming procedure went OK. There's no setting to do, at least according to this website. I don't know what about the Gold R page you're referring to. I assume the priming operation could enable the Haldex Controller to reset the control parameters on its own. But It's only a guess. 

 

 

Oups! You're right for the oil P/N reference . A mistyping indeed!

I'll ask a moderator to correct it.  

 

 

The procedure you've pasted seems a bit more complete. But as you can see there's no really setting to do. It's only a test performed twice and then potential fault codes cleaning...

 

Now, it's up to you! And please make your feedbacks once done!

Enjoy and take care! 

 

Thanks Bap! All clear, just one more thing:

I understand that you can anticipate when you've filled it with ~650ml, but what I meant is when you actually take out the hose and plug it temporarily in order to start it for the first time, at that point surely some oil must be coming out since you are removing the hose from the fill hole? or is the oil that "thick" that you can quickly plug it without spilling? Doesn't look that thick from the photos.

[Bap33]

Oh, OK, I catch you then!

Yes, the Haldex oil is quite thin (thinner than engine oil).

Thus, to avoid spilling oil upon syringe removal, you need to keep its head up. With one hand you gently bring the piston rod downwards, whereas with your over hand you pull the hose out and keep it updwards.

But even with your best efforts, be sure there will be few oil drops on your work area...

[newbie69]

So I bought a small pump today which looked like it should be good for the job, only to discover the following warning on a sticker on it after I opened the box: (nothing was written on the outside of the package)




I wonder why it should not be used with transmission and engine oil but it is ok for brake fluid?! Any possible explanation?

Furthermore, could I get away with a one-time use or I should definitely avoid it, and why? (not expensive enough, I would throw it away anyway)
 

[Bap33]

Uh... ...

Depending on the website, where you bought it, I would rather return it to the seller and buy a new one, that can bear any oil or grease.

The one I've bought is a Sealey ref. VS404. It's clearly written on the box, that it can be used either with grease, oil or brake fluid. 

I don't really know, why this one can't be used with grease and oil... May be because the seal is not oil resistant?

But I wouldn't play with that kind of thing just to save some euros, which could lead to much more expensive damage... 

Note:  I'm not a specialist, It's only my personal approach/feeling. 

[newbie69]

3 hours ago, Bap33 said:

Uh... ...

Depending on the website, where you bought it, I would rather return it to the seller and buy a new one, that can bear any oil or grease.

The one I've bought is a Sealey ref. VS404. It's clearly written on the box, that it can be used either with grease, oil or brake fluid. 

I don't really know, why this one can't be used with grease and oil... May be because the seal is not oil resistant?

But I wouldn't play with that kind of thing just to save some euros, which could lead to much more expensive damage... 

Note:  I'm not a specialist, It's only my personal approach/feeling. 

It's not the cost really, just the loss of my time to drive to the shop I bought it, and now take it back and look for a new one, especially because there was no warning written on the package...

My guess too is something about the rubber seal as you say, although I am not sure if that means the oil is too thin and can escape, or it is too corrosive for the seal material, but then I thought brake fluid was far worse than engine oil in that aspect...

Anyway, I will need to take care of this I think.

[Liger1956]

Is the warning to do with the viscosity of the fluid and the pump not being able to cope with thick liquids? Antifreeze is a lot runnier than most oils and I think that the viscosity of brake fluid is fairly low. When I use my Pela manual vacuum pump to suck out engine oil it does help a lot if the oil is warm.

[J.R.]

Spot on!

 

And as for leading to much more expensive damage, to what exactly? Certainly not the vehicle and the extraction pump will be the usual cheap disposable tat of todays world so not that either.

Edited 21 April, 2021 by J.R.

[newbie69]

Ok, so I spoke with a buddy here who had used the same item to do his VAQ oil change on his Cupra, basically identical process, he said the pump managed to fill it by around 50% (3-4dl) then it sucked air and overflowed so he had to repeat the process a few times to get the proper amount of oil in.

So I guess the pump is giving up easily on this type of oil and you might end up trying a few times to fill it properly, i will probably look for another item that can minimize my "heavy cursing" chances then...

[newbie69]

Update from my Haldex oil change today, all went well but I struggled with the following steps:

a) The two Torx screws keeping the Haldex ECU in place, the bottom one is very close to the drive shaft flange and all my tool combinations were either too short or too wide to clear it, not any set will work there, you've been warned! I was saved by a really thin wrench I had in my tool case which i managed to squeeze between the screw head and the flange at an angle, get the hex bit in and clear a valuabe 1-2mm to operate it. However this proved to be a wasted effort as...

b) The ECU plug connecting the Haldex ECU to the pump, yes those dreaded locking tab connectors VAG uses that if were designed with 40% less stiffness on the tab, they would be just as slip-safe but possible to remove from all those pesky, limited-access locations with just one hand instead of endless pulling, swearing and finger crushing in vain...  I thought I had got the hang of them after so many JB4 installations and its infamous plug D  but it just wasn't my day so, if you find yourself in the same position, you can proceed without disconnecting the pump from the ECU at all. Here's how this slightly alternative approach works:

You still unscrew the ECU (remember it takes a special extension or very thin wrench to achieve that) to make more slack for the wiring.
You unscrew the pump but obviously don't stretch it now as it's still connected to the ECU, instead you need to be keeping it up. In some videos they suggest leaving it to rest on the exhaust pipe next to it but I didn't want to take my chances and as I had a buddy with me (always a good idea for jobs you've not tackled before) he took over "support duties".
You can then work as per the usual instructions while having the pump up.

c) One last thing, the M10 filler screw... I have a few tool sets and combinations with which I've completed several jobs in the past, however all my HEX bit sets were stopping at 8, i had actually never needed a 10 HEX bit so far... Why on earth this is not a HEX  head bolt but a socket head only VW knows. 
Of-fcourse I had a good old Allen key set that could do the trick as it included a size 10 key, but not possible to mount on a torque wrench to apply precisely the 38Nm specified upon re-assembly. So, I just relied on common sense to tighten the new bolt back with the Allen key, if you want to do it right make sure you have a 10mm bit before setting off.


And now time for the star of the show...

I had seen people cleaning their Haldex screens at 20-30K and they were looking only mildly dirty so i had some doubts how dirty mine would be / how necessary the whole operation after 2 years and 22.000 km.
Yes I have done at least 20+ launches with the car, and it's tuned too but I was still shocked from this sight upon pump removal:









The screen was in that sorry state at all sides, not just the one seen in the photos     There had recently been the occasional trumping during launching, but only then, not in normal driving so I had suspected it could be slightly clogged, not that horribly though.

After I saw this I can only say I'm glad I did it and it will be added in my list of yearly or 18months max maintenance, it's going to be much simpler and quicker next time I reckon.

Again thanks to Bap for this guide that detailed the process and provided a great basis to work on 

[Bap33]

 

@newbie69 Sorry if you struggled with some steps. I didn't faced them.

But happy you could find a solution and glad this thread helped you (at least a bit).  

[Gabrielem]

So is it necessary to have vcds to adjust some parameter of the pump or can it be done without it?

[Bap33]

I don’t remember having used VCDS. Just proceeded as described in step #5 to prime the pump. It looked ok.

Some use VCDS but actually, it doesn’t bring much. It does more or less the same thing as far as I understood.

Check on several tutorials on YouTube if needed.