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Pickup emissions mot fail


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Hi folks, potential new addition to the skoda pickup crew and looking for some advice on emissions. I have the chance to take a W-reg felicia pickup 1.6 petrol but its in need of some work. Last mot attempt around 2 years ago was a big fail. Various bits of welding to be done but they'r not an issue for me, the main problem is the emissions failure. Apparently it was laughed out the mot station they were so bad. The fella did say that it had sat for around a year tho before the test so that wouldn't have helped matters but still, the readings were pretty bad I'm told. I don't understand any of the info so was wondering if anyone here could have a look and be able to say about anything specific that could be done to lower the emmisions. Would a good service and run sort it or is it a no hoper? Iv been told about a thing on ebay that attaches to the lamda somehow and "tricks" the computer into thinking the emissions are good. Anyone ever heard of it and if its any use? Thanks in advance for any help (if any) or advice to scrap the thing 😕

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Basically the data says that the engine is running rich and there is an incomplete combustion.

There are many possible reasons for that (fuel, ignition, and/or mechanical related). Without proper knowledge and proper diagnose tools you will shoot in the dark because you need evidence before changing parts.

The minimum you can do is to check the spark plugs and the air filter.

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15 minutes ago, Magoochie said:

Iv been told about a thing on ebay that attaches to the lamda somehow and "tricks" the computer into thinking the emissions are good. Anyone ever heard of it and if its any use?

Forget about it. It is rubbish.

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Thanks RicardoM. Can you tell if its something that replacing the service parts would possibly help with - spark plugs, oil and filters etc, lamda sensor maybe or any other parts that are just a case of unbolt and replace? I don't mind having a go and spending a little money on it but it's if it parts that need proper expert knowledge or finely tuned, then im out of my depth with it. The majority of service stuff is fairly cheap and is something I could tackle.

 

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There's high chance that lambda, or its wiring, is cause of your issue, but as RicardoM said - without diagnostics might end up changing half of engine before real cause is found.

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Yeah, changing half the engine and multiple retest is what I don't want. A one time change of certain basic parts and 1 retest is fine. I might give changing the lamda a go then. Would it be worth changing other service parts like oil and filter and plugs etc at the same time or are they unlikely to make as much a difference as the lamda and a noticeable difference? A basic service and lamda and retest comes in at a price I'm happy to gamble with but if that doesn't do the trick then it's a no go. 

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You need EVIDENCE of fault before buying a part. In order to find the evidence, you need to have advanced skills to diagnose the engine. That is the most complex part of auto mechanics. You need knowledge and proper diagnose tools. You don't have them. We have them but we don't have access to your car. There is a limit of we can do on this forum.

As for changing the oxygen sensor blindly, it's your money. Although I would be surprised the catalyst converter is not melted too after burning raw hydrocarbons in it for a long time.

It's like you call a doctor on the phone and tell him you have a headache. He tells you there are many reasons for the issue but you need to do some specific detailed medical tests first. You say to him that you prefer to try a hip prosthesis instead. So go buy it. We'll talk later.

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Very helpful RicardoM, cheers. At no point was I demanding anyone tell me what the specific problem was, just if in anyone's opinion would a basic service and swap over of some cheap parts make much of a difference or not. I wasn't asking anyone to commit to telling me it would solve all my problems. As for asking for hip surgery for a headache, it was very much nothing like that. Why anyone would want to come on a forum to give some sort of snarky sarcastic reply like that baffles me. Just say nothing? Thank you for any genuine help anyone has offered so far. 

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Its very easy to check that a Lambda sensor is behaving and that the engine is running correctly at Lamda 1 (which yours clearly isn't) all you need is an analogue voltage meter, a £2 cheapy will be perfect.

 

After first checking that there is voltage to t he sensor, with the engine at idle at operating temperature the signal voltage should flip high and low around the reference voltage, cant recall what it is but say its 3v then the needle should swing a couple of times a second between 5v and 1v, if its constantly high or low then its detecting a rich or weak mixture (cant recall which is which) that the fuelling is not able to overcome or the sensor is foutu.

 

My memory is hazy but with the ignition on it should read a ceratin voltage and not be high or low, - check with Google.

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2 hours ago, Magoochie said:

At no point was I demanding anyone tell me what the specific problem was, just if in anyone's opinion would a basic service and swap over of some cheap parts make much of a difference or not.

And you had the answer. Nobody can tell that blindly. Furthermore, auto mechanics is not about making miracles by replacing cheap parts but I've just noticed you're from Scotland so feel free to change any cheap part you like and tell us how it went. Then perhaps you will reconsider the absurdity of your questions and expectations.

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Huh, what exactly does where I live have anything to do about the matter?  Forums like this are for people to ask for and provide help to other like minded people. Not for jumped up self inflated characters like your turning out to be to berate or mock the querys of anyone with less knowledge on a matter. As I said before, why even bother commenting. Take a break pal. 

7 hours ago, J.R. said:

Its very easy to check that a Lambda sensor is behaving and that the engine is running correctly at Lamda 1 (which yours clearly isn't) all you need is an analogue voltage meter, a £2 cheapy will be perfect.

 

After first checking that there is voltage to t he sensor, with the engine at idle at operating temperature the signal voltage should flip high and low around the reference voltage, cant recall what it is but say its 3v then the needle should swing a couple of times a second between 5v and 1v, if its constantly high or low then its detecting a rich or weak mixture (cant recall which is which) that the fuelling is not able to overcome or the sensor is foutu.

 

My memory is hazy but with the ignition on it should read a ceratin voltage and not be high or low, - check with Google.

Very helpful info, thank you

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@RicardoM I’m not too sure what the OP’s location has to do with things but as you well know, being helpful actually makes for a better relationship with members than just preaching from aloft. 
Maybe channel your knowledge in a more conducive way to purely assisting instead?

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1 hour ago, john999boy said:

Maybe channel your knowledge in a more conducive way to purely assisting instead?

I did. Yet sometimes people don't like the advice because it involves TIME, MONEY, and a lot of KNOWLEDGE that can't be "channeled" online.

There are complex issues that can't be addressed as simple as changing a bulb. In such case people go to a car shop and PAY FOR A DIAGNOSE. Or if they are more knowledgeable and have the proper tools we advice them what to test. If we don't have the initial information to work with, any advice would be like picking blindly something from a LONG list of causes. Being stubborn in asking for a cheap fix doesn't help either, don't you think you should address that too?

We are not doing miracles in this forum and in this case my intuition tells me the car is a lemon and finding the problem (as if always it has to be just one) bang on would be just pure luck and not reliable. Luck has nothing to do with a proper diagnose. At least not in my case. I have been always an advocate of finding the evidence of fault THEN changing the part(s). Otherwise I wouldn't be better than those part changers in car shops.

Edited by RicardoM
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10 hours ago, RicardoM said:

I've just noticed you're from Scotland so feel free to change any cheap part you like and tell us how it went. Then perhaps you will reconsider the absurdity of your questions and expectations.

These two sentences are nothing like 'purely assisting'.

Pointless and rude would be better descriptions.

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3 hours ago, Wino said:

These two sentences are nothing like 'purely assisting'.

Pointless and rude would be better descriptions.

Everybody jokes about Scottish people being cheap. Except in here. Don't be so *na*.

http://www.rampantscotland.com/humour/blhumthrift.htm

  • Groan 1
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I suspect that @RicardoM has a wee bit of a Scot in them.

A wild rover and one of Jock Tamson's bairns.

 

Never found out where he or she does originate from as he / she is a resident of so many parts, Canada, Romania and Spain to name a few.

 

Aberdoinians are supposed to be tight as in they have long pockets and short arms.

Edited by e-Roottoot
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3 hours ago, e-Roottoot said:

Never found out where he or she does originate from as he / she is a resident of so many parts, Canada, Romania and Spain to name a few.

You know, people travel as they wish according to their personal interests. I have to provide enough money for my family. So I go working where I am paid best.

If that made you lose sleep, I have one curiosity about residency too. Never found out why did England made citizens of sovereign countries on several continents residents of the British empire by force. Probably there were noble reasons involved that had nothing to do with their wealth...

  • Haha 1
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