FYI - fuse info is here:

https://digital-manual.skoda-auto.com/w/en_GB/show/19c43d6ad7f142780adf42c76ae70106_4_en_GB?ct=19c43d6ad7f142780adf42c76ae70106_4_en_GB#titled800079164e139581

 

12 minutes ago, varaderoguy said:

I would go with Fuse 43, which is the rear washer wiper.  This is a switched power connection and my concern about taking power from ACC is that this is a mission critical system and I am not sure how CANBUS generally appreciates the fluctuations of power from that feed.  It could cause some unnecessary errors.

46 is an unused fuse in our models so doesnt upset anything and has been running a Blackvue 750 S in my wifes car for last two months without problems. Why piggyback onto a fuse when there are unused spare ones there. Have done similar in a POLO a PASSAT and a TIGUAN over last 10 years without any problems. I always look for an unused slot as its less trouble.  Aslo if using a piggy back tap make sure you fit it around the correct way as if you dont the current has to run through both fuses to get to the camera

Edited 20 October, 20214 yr by Exkiwi

1 minute ago, Exkiwi said:

46 is an unused fuse in our models so doesnt upset anything and has been running a Blackvue 750 S in my wifes car for last two months without problems. Why piggyback onto a fuse when there are unused spare ones there. Have done similar in a POLO a PASSAT and a TIGUAN over last 10 years without any problems. I always look for an unused slot as its less trouble.

Your answer is probably right, but it needs to have caveats against it.  

 

1) Fuse layout changes depending on territory.  There are minor market differences between European and Australian/Asia models.

2) Fuse 46 can be used for rear heated seats.  Agreed this is a sensible possible connection, but this is a high current draw and you may get issues with a voltage drop onto the camera causing it to restart.  I suppose it depends on the make/model of the dashcam as well. NEXTBASE camera are good, so it won't matter so much, but cheap Chinese cameras will not have a decent capacitive battery and will glitch.  

48 minutes ago, varaderoguy said:

Your answer is probably right, but it needs to have caveats against it.  

 

1) Fuse layout changes depending on territory.  There are minor market differences between European and Australian/Asia models.

2) Fuse 46 can be used for rear heated seats.  Agreed this is a sensible possible connection, but this is a high current draw and you may get issues with a voltage drop onto the camera causing it to restart.  I suppose it depends on the make/model of the dashcam as well. NEXTBASE camera are good, so it won't matter so much, but cheap Chinese cameras will not have a decent capacitive battery and will glitch.  

I live in Queensland where today wasnt hot and is 26C At 7pm    Weekend will be well over 30 and its only spring here.

We dont need heated seats and wish they had cooling ones    I should have qualified it by saying that I used a fuse tap and didnt put the original fuse back in. Its my wifes car and may have someone in the back 4 times a year if any. In my TIg and Passat I used spare fuse slots.

Sorry have not been well for a few days and brain is a bit fuzzy

I got a very terse " we don't supply OBD cables" in response to an enquiry to Nextbase regarding using my 312GW.

One thing I did pick up from their website was a firmware update for my dash cam, it was two versions behind,

I needed another micro SD card to download the update but it took just a few minutes to update.

So make sure your firmware is up to date.

3 minutes ago, gumdrop said:

I got a very terse " we don't supply OBD cables" in response to an enquiry to Nextbase regarding using my 312GW.

One thing I did pick up from their website was a firmware update for my dash cam, it was two versions behind,

I needed another micro SD card to download the update but it took just a few minutes to update.

So make sure your firmware is up to date.

Quote

I got a very terse " we don't supply OBD cables" in response to an enquiry to Nextbase regarding using my 312GW.

Yes, I couldn't get them to agree that an OBD cable was ok to use, they would only recommend their own cables. I'd be happy to do that if the sockets in the Kamiq were in a more convenient place, but they're not, so I'll carry on with my OBD cable which is already in place.

Thanks for the heads up on the firmware 👍.

Is it in and working ? if not please let me know what happens.

6 minutes ago, gumdrop said:

Is it in and working ? if not please let me know what happens.

Yes it is. Arrived yesterday, so I quickly (probably too quickly !) set it up and positioned it in the car using the OBD cable I already had in there to power it.

I couldn't get it to pair with my phone yesterday, but I think that's to do with my phone rather than the dash cam. However, I tried again just now and they've paired.

Took me a while and a Youtube viewing to figure out how to remove the adhesive sticker from the window mount and replace it with the suction mount.

 

Compared to the 3 previous cams I've bought, I'm impressed so far with this one (I haven't taken and checked any footage with it yet), as it was far more user friendly to set up. The touch screen works well and I like the fact that it's the windscreen mount that's powered rather than the actual camera and the camera attaches to the mount magnetically, so removing it from the mount to bring it indoors is a piece of cake.

 

I'm also impressed that this is the first time that the instructions state that the SD Card in the camera should be formatted every 2 or three weeks, as although I know this should be done, I've never seen it written in any instructions.

It was mildly annoying that I had to purchase a new SD card as this unit requires a 3U card and my others were only 1U. I found a Samsung 128Gb card on Amazon for £14 though, which was substantially cheaper than the Nextbase one.

Time will tell if this is a reliable unit and keeps the time/date correctly, but on current showing I wish I'd bought a Nextbase unit a long time ago rather than the cheaper Chinese brands I have.

 

The Azdome this has replaced has two lenses in it, one forward facing and one facing into the cabin, which if positioned correctly, would also get some footage of what was happening behind the car.  Nextbase do an easy add on lens that will do the same, or a separate rear window lens that plugs into the main unit. If the Nextbase proves reliable, I may purchase the add on interior lens at a later date.

I was confused by their rear facing camera somewhere I read that some are self powered i.e. they don't need a cable.

15 minutes ago, gumdrop said:

I was confused by their rear facing camera somewhere I read that some are self powered i.e. they don't need a cable.

.

 

From Which?, September 2021:

 

"Can you buy a truly wireless, battery-powered dash cam? No. You can buy a wireless dash cam that allows you to transfer footage without using a cable. But every major dash cam on the market connects to a car's battery via a cable – either one that's trailed to your car's 9V socket or hard-wired into the dashboard.  Many dash cams have internal batteries to ensure recordings are saved in the case of a power outage, but they need that continuous cable connection to run for any practical length of time. There aren't any truly wireless dash cams out there right now, and we would advise you to steer clear of any you can find that run on batteries alone."

.
 

1 hour ago, gumdrop said:

I was confused by their rear facing camera somewhere I read that some are self powered i.e. they don't need a cable.

The rear facing camera for the interior of the car simply plugs into the side of the dashcam. Whilst I didn't study the rear camera, I'm pretty sure it's powered by a cable that's plugged into the main dashcam and then a lead has to be routed through to the rear of the car. I didn't watch it, but there's a Youtube video of someone doing this.

1 hour ago, olderman1 said:

The rear facing camera for the interior of the car simply plugs into the side of the dashcam. Whilst I didn't study the rear camera, I'm pretty sure it's powered by a cable that's plugged into the main dashcam and then a lead has to be routed through to the rear of the car. I didn't watch it, but there's a Youtube video of someone doing this.

 

As well as the wired rear view camera, there's actually two plug in modules. One monitors the car interior and the other monitors what's happening behind your car. Obviously a module mounted on the windscreen to  monitor the rear view won't be as efficient as the dedicated wired version, but it's so much easier to fit.

Replacement cable arrived, fitted easily, including concealing the cable.

As far as I can see everything is now working as it should.

On 15/06/2021 at 11:04, gumdrop said:

Has anyone tried this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1DjBucrBZMs

Bought the kit and did more research then never used it!

Went to a piggy back fuse instead!

Now building the courage to install the fuse option in my new Kamiq.

Edited 1 December, 20214 yr by EJB

9 minutes ago, EJB said:

Bought the kit and did more research then never used it!

Went to a piggy back fuse instead!

Now building the courage to install the fuse option in my new Kamiq.

Its like everything, you must do what you are comfortable with.

Sorry for hijacking this thread, let  me know if I should open a new one. I got the the Garmin Mini parking cable. It has three connections: ground, permanent live and accessory. I was testing with a multimeter today and found some suitable empty slots with no fuses in them but they still have the contact points.

Battery always on (as measured)
12 - Heated steering wheel ( I don't have it )
24 - Phonebox, GSM antenna, USB connection, Infotainment screen  ( why empty? )
32 - Passenger belt tensioners
34 - Driver belt tensioners

Accessory
45 - Windscreen wiper ( why empty? )
46 - Seat heating - rear ( I don't have that )


I tested with 46 & 32 and the camera seems to work fine. I chose those two because I have one mini "piggy-back" connector and one standard size.  My guess is that the " passenger belt tensioners" is some advanced feature that my car isn't equipped with, but I'm not 100% sure. I can definitely use 12 as the always on, I definitely don't have a heated steering whell, but it's a mini size fuse, so I'd have to buy another mini "piggy-back" connector.  Do you guys think it's okay to use 46 & 32 for the camera?

Here are some images (the forum won't let me upload images) of the test setup.
https://imgur.com/a/wQr3ci7

Also, forgot to mention, on the piggy-back connector I would keep the original fuse slot empty and only use 2 or 2.5 amp fuse for the dashcam connection.

Hi,

I have read various article and checked some videos on hard wiring a Dash Cam but before starting can simeone confirm if the wiring can be easily looped from the LH side of the mirror towards the RH pillar towrds the fuse box behind the coin box on  the RHS on a UK RHD Kamiq?

I assume the cable will have to "loop" around the edge of the large centre plastic mounting that contains my road sign camera!

 

Thanks

Assuming I have correctly understood the question, - yes, my Nextbase cable is long enough to follow the route that you have described.

46 minutes ago, lastgasp said:

Assuming I have correctly understood the question, - yes, my Nextbase cable is long enough to follow the route that you have described.

 

Just for clarity,  the green line is where the cable should be tucked in,  it cannot/should not be pulled or inserted on the route shown in red!?

 

Thanks

Could anyone confirm my assumptions as I intend to fit it in the next couple of weeks!?

 

Thanks

Its actually better to just take the wire up, behind the left hand A Pillar Trim.  Everybody assumes you have to go up the right hand A Pillar Trim.  It is simple to route a cable underneath the dash board and if you go up the left hand side then the middle piece won't be an obstacle. The end result being neater.

Yes you are correct that you can't get a cable across that centre piece, at least I couldn't on my Yeti. That's why I just went up the left hand A Pillar.

Edited 25 February, 20242 yr by aubrey

Thanks aubrey,  that's what I was thinking of doing and I will try it.

 

will be doing this myself at the weekend, so thanks for all the tips n images on this

 

I've got a Nextbase 522GW with the rear camera on the back window (not the in cabin one) - which at first had lots of freezing issues, but after multiple firmware updates it's been a solid crystal clear cam to own.

On 25/02/2024 at 20:54, aubrey said:

Its actually better to just take the wire up, behind the left hand A Pillar Trim.  Everybody assumes you have to go up the right hand A Pillar Trim.  It is simple to route a cable underneath the dash board and if you go up the left hand side then the middle piece won't be an obstacle. The end result being neater.

Yes you are correct that you can't get a cable across that centre piece, at least I couldn't on my Yeti. That's why I just went up the left hand A Pillar.

 

Did exactly that earlier this morning, front camera wasn't too hard at all. Camera behind mirror on left side, was going to do the right as I had in my Audi A3 but with the Kamiq it obscured a little too much vision, so opted on the left. Wiring tucked nicely along the top, down the left pillar, around door edge, straight under dash all hidden to the fuse box piggy backed in number 43 as you guys mentioned (wiper). Used a couple of cable ties for the slack then and tucked tightly near the fuse box, hate hearing any rattles such as possibly the wires being loose tapping. 

 

The rear camera proved most difficult, managed to just about squeeze cable again along top left of windscreen, down the same left pillar, down door edge, and then cutting across the lower floor trim straight to rear seat. Was stuck at the rear seat for sometime trying to figure out the best neatest way of doing it, and if going up n down too much it would have been short for the camera itself. Wire shows a few cm near rear seat, rear window edge, along the inside of the trim going into the boot, and then just about had enough to tuck under the rear window trim. 

 

If anyone uses the nextbase rear camera, you may know it uses a rubbish design of a magnet holding the camera. Each time you close the boot, the camera can sometimes move any direction and not be facing the rear correctly at all. So once lined up, personally I used once again some epoxy resin glue to hold the camera on the magnet in place, letting it set for 24 hours. It won't budge then with any boot closing. 

 

 

Might do a YouTube vid on all this, seeing as there isn't really much for a Kamiq. 

 

Fuse 43 did someone say it turns off during stop start? Which might be annoying, especially if an incident happened with it being off. But usually I turn off stop start anyway.