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Electric Windows


Bertie90

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So just as a test I swapped modules from passenger to drivers side. The relay in the PCB is clicking like never before. @Wino I can't get to fix the capacitor on the PCB to get 12. I re-soldered as best as I could but still getting less than 1v. 

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I wonder if the person that swapped that capacitor has damaged the pad that the positive terminal goes to?  I'll just make a little demo of a possible fix for you and post a photo.

 

 

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With the 8-way connector plugged in, measure voltage at the point arrowed here, instead of trying at the capacitor solder joint.  It could be that the component to the right of the arrow  (a diode) has been shorted out and blown up.  You can see the tracks go from that diode to the capacitor and onwards towards other stuff.  

 

Note that tilting the capacitor over like that (as I've done purely to show the tracking under it) is likely to damage the capacitor so don't do it unless you have a spare.  

 

 

In fact, measure voltage both sides of that diode (red meter probe on each diode solder joint in turn; black probe to the earth connection - the pin that thick brown wire goes to).  

 

 

 

20210417_194642.jpg

Edited by Wino
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I installed the passenger module in the drivers side and it works. What are the repercussions of that? 

 

For now I have 1 window that works. I noticed on eBay that there are more passenger modules available that driver's side. Wondering if I can get away with buying a passenger module now. 

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53 minutes ago, UrbanPanzer said:

 

;)

I did buy one before with the same part number but the the PCB inside was different looking. Was struggling to find another used one. 

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Low and behold it still doesn't work this morning. I check for 1h yesterday and it was working every time all the time and was convinced the module was at fault. But not even the passenger module is cutting it. 

 

It works immediately if I plug and unpug the module. 

Edited by Bertie90
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Unplugged fuse 51,52,11 didn't made any difference. Unplugged the door harness, no difference.  Unplugged the module connector, no difference. 

 

Plugged the old broken module, then reconnected back to passenger. Worked instantly. 

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16187709907038029564365509232697.jpg

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It stopped working as usual. Then I went ahead and unplugged this connector from the voltage control unit and plugged it back in. And it worked again. Don't know what is next. ECU? 

1618775394950682977531520290241.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm still puzzling over this.

That connector includes the main earth to that unit, so is probably a bit like switching your computer off and on again. As the heart of the CAN bus system it probably fans out and resets other modules too, but the window motor modules aren't on the CAN bus.

 

The only connections to that Voltage Control unit from the window motor modules are the two 'door open switch' wires that come from the microswitches in the door locks via the window modules. So it might be that something to do with the door open switch has got that unit and/or the window motor module in a muddle?

 

There is also CAN bus connectivity between that voltage control unit and the Central Convenience unit (that looks after door locking stuff and radio remote control), and the central convenience unit has a direct wired connection to each of the window modules. I think this connection may be to do with being able to raise/lower windows by holding down the lock or unlock buttons on the remote, but not sure. Does Roomster or Fabia Mk2 have that function?  

 

@Bertie90 I'm also curious about the difference(s) between the circuit boards inside the passenger and drivers side window motor modules. I've only got a drivers side one to look at, do you have a photo of a passenger side one? The actual circuit board.  I think some of the photos in this thread may be of the passenger side one from your Roomster, but I want to be sure I know what I'm looking at, rather than assuming.  Everyone says the drivers side is the 'master' unit, so it would be nice if there was some obvious difference, like a simpler circuit board with fewer bits fitted or something on the passenger one, so you could tell just by looking at one.

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On 29/04/2021 at 15:09, Wino said:

 

I'll take a clear picture of the passenger board. Yes there are differences I noticed. It doesn't look like at a first glance but there are. 

 

The early Roomster hasn't got the up/down down windows remote function. I checked with my fake vcds. But the 2013 Fabia does have that module/option which I can select. 

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  • 2 months later...

***UPDATE - SOLVED***

 

Probably I should close this topic saying that a new/used driver's window regulator from another almost like for like Roomster has solved the issue. Interesting fact is that these regulators were like gold dust. Been quoted used anywhere between £175 to £75 (postage included).

 

Many thanks to @Winofor helping me out throught the process and suggesting the listing on eBay.

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38 minutes ago, Bertie90 said:

suggesting the listing on eBay

How much did you have to pay, if you don't mind me asking?

Was it cheaper than the usual fairly extreme pricing for these?

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£65 and they included the regulator as well, which I didn't need but it came as one. I must have contacted 30 different salvage yards and only a handful had any left.

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5 hours ago, UrbanPanzer said:

 

17 of April................said thats what you needed, could have saved a lot of headache !!

I have looked since that day trust me, my ebay allert was set up for breaking Roomsters and Polos etc. Wasn't easy finding one at a right price. You try and search for that part number and you'll see the availability or prices. Tnak you for your advice anyway, it was noted :thumbup:

Edited by Bertie90
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