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2007 Fabia both front windows down work. 

 

I checked the wiring harned in both doors and the passenger side is intact. The drivers side has been mendended, about 3 wires were soldered. 

 

There is lights on the switches when I turn the headlights in. 

 

Passenger Side:

Unplugged and plugged the harnes in the door and voilà! It worked...for 5 min. Then it didn't work again, no switches make it work. Unplugged and plugged back in. Worked for about 5 min. This was operated only with the passenger door switch. The drivers switch didn't make it operate. 

 

Drivers Side:

I took the door card off, took the motor off and made it turn with a spare battery. I checked the wires that plug on the motor and there is 12v going to it.

 

I took another switch from my other Fabia and it didn't work. There is also 12v going to the switch. 

 

I plugged and unplugged the harnes and it made no difference. 

 

What am I missing? 

 

 

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you need to verify the door looms especially the previously repaired ones to ensure all is good, soldering on a car is often not a good idea especially on something that moves and flexes.

  • Author
1 hour ago, UrbanPanzer said:

you need to verify the door looms especially the previously repaired ones to ensure all is good, soldering on a car is often not a good idea especially on something that moves and flexes.

But why does the passenger door side works only for 5min?

to be honest no idea, but anything is possible with these VAG cars and the way they are wired, especially when a fault is present somewhere.

 

The main issue is......The drivers door is the "master" control unit for the windows, so "if" there is a fault there and OR with the wiring then any combination of errors is possible.

The loom has obviously been repaired before, now personally I don't think there is enough room to do a decent repair in that small area, many will argue different I'm sure, but for me a new loom is the best fix. So yours has been

soldered, this has to be the first port of call to check the repair is still sound because over time, vibration and OR corrosion can affect a soldered joint in vehicle wiring and offcourse that is also "assuming" it was a good repair to start with.

 

Have a good look at the solder repairs and check continuity "either" side of the repair to prove its good.

 

PS what colour wires were repaired ?

 

Edited by UrbanPanzer

  • Author

Cheers. The soldering does look a bit crap. From memory it's a thick red, a brown one and a blue one. 

The thick red is most likely red with white trace, this is the main power feed to the motor for the window lift, all browns are earth and the Blue will also probably have a trace colour as well.

  • Author

Fyi it wasn't me that soldered those. 

20210214_192211.jpg

20210214_192238.jpg

do the wires test ok ?

 

I am assuming you have pulled back what looks like heatshrink otherwise it looks very easy for the red/ white trace to short to earth

  • Author

I tested power to the motor and power to the switch. Both 12v. I don't know how to test for continuity 

  • Author

Just to update, the door was replaced due to an accident an I believe the wiring harness is not the correct one for the car. I looked on the parts finder and there are many many variations of this harness. Struggling to find one from the breakers that fits mine :(

You say they work for about five mins... This is perhaps the normal setting as electric windows work for that length of time, once the ignition is switched off, UNLESS you open a door. So try that. open the door after just a few seconds of setting the windows to see if they cancel straight away. (They should). It does sound to me though, that this is happening every time you try to use the windows so perhaps the issue lies with whatever makes the windows operate for these few mins. A relay or controller or something. Those wires do look odd though so be sure they ae not getting crossed together or shorting out, once you close the door. Check the full length of all the wires, too.

So did you buy the car like this ????

 

To determine correct loom, we need to know what you have fitted as standard equipment :-

 

1. Electric windows x 2 OR 4

2. Electric heated mirrors

3. Remote central locking

4. Alarm

 

I think yours would come under 2008 and uses the "newer" style loom..

 

http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/FAB/year/2008/drive_standart/608/hg_ug/971/subcategory/972035/part_id/2552207/lang/e#sec_2

 

 

Edited by UrbanPanzer

  • Author
16 hours ago, mrgf said:

You say they work for about five mins... This is perhaps the normal setting as electric windows work for that length of time, once the ignition is switched off, UNLESS you open a door. So try that. open the door after just a few seconds of setting the windows to see if they cancel straight away. (They should). It does sound to me though, that this is happening every time you try to use the windows so perhaps the issue lies with whatever makes the windows operate for these few mins. A relay or controller or something. Those wires do look odd though so be sure they ae not getting crossed together or shorting out, once you close the door. Check the full length of all the wires, too.

No, just the passager window works for 5 min after I unplug and plug the main harness. Sadly nothing to do with ignition. They never work whilst driving. I even took the battery out yesterday when I serviced it just for luck.

  • Author
16 hours ago, UrbanPanzer said:

So did you buy the car like this ????

 

To determine correct loom, we need to know what you have fitted as standard equipment :-

 

1. Electric windows x 2 OR 4

2. Electric heated mirrors

3. Remote central locking

4. Alarm

 

I think yours would come under 2008 and uses the "newer" style loom..

 

http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/FAB/year/2008/drive_standart/608/hg_ug/971/subcategory/972035/part_id/2552207/lang/e#sec_2

 

 

Yes, it came with the driver's door a different colour, windows not working, OBD2 port not working and also, I have to press the Unlock button on the fob twice to open the doors which I find odd but not impossible.

 

But anyway, point is, I don't know if the loom is the correct one because it would 1. Belong to the donor car 2. It might have been swapped over when the door was changed so I don't know. eBay breakers have very different part numbers compared to what's on the parts sistems and yet they have power windows, heated mirrors, central locking etc. I even noticed the connector for the window motor on one of them was different than mine and it was from a 2008 Roomster (mine is a 2007). Dealer quoted me £150 doh! 

 

I guess I have to tear it down and check what's on it. 

 

dunno what dealer was quoting.......

 

I bought the "most connections" electrical drivers door loom for Fabia 2 which is 4 electric windows, heated electric mirrors etc and that was only £95.........unless offcourse prices have gone up a lot.

 

The loom is the correct "fit", but A) may not be ref what equipment and B ) maybe faulty....

 

if you look at the attached images, the 07 looms have a totally different connection at the A pillar (circled), yours has the large "big" plug from 2008 onwards as in the other image.

 

 

fabia08.jpg

fabia07.jpg

  • Author

The dealer quoted me for a brand new loom. Anyway I bought one from eBay used for £50. Waiting to be delivered now and see what I get. According to the parts diagram it should fit. 

Screenshot_20210217-083629_eBay.jpg

Edited by Bertie90

Hi guys

had this exact problem with my 2005 Fabia VRS

tried new fuses, new window motors and door switch, no joy !

then i replaced the battery with a decent brand, on this case a bosch

 

tada!!!

 

windows have worked perfectly for 2 weeks!

 

worth a go

  • Author

i will give tht a go!

  • Author

Guys the wires work without a doubt. I have a continuity tester and went through all the wires.

 

I checked and checked the fuses and they are fine.

 

Again, if I unplug and plug the passenger side it works for like 5 min until the car locks and unlocks then back to 0. 

 

I read on the Haynes manual something about a BSI unit? Could that be faulty? 

Change the battery

That is the only solution I found

good luck

 Hi I have this same problem I tried to unplug the battery for 5 minutes and it works.

Yeah that is an inconvenience though

try a new battery 👍

Not a new battery but disconnect the battery for 5 minutes 😉

That will only work as a short term fix mate

  • Author

I've put a brand new 540Amps battery and I have the same issue. 

 

I checked fuses

I changed the switch

I tested the motor 

I tested power to the switch

I tested continuity on the wires

I left the car overnight with no battery

 

Same result, passenger side works for 5 min then nothing

Drivers side never works and switches don't do anything

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