Hmmm, I don't know.... I'll test that. 

Omg! It was fuse 11. Even if it's not blowen. I have swapped it anyway and it worked. Dude you're a genius 

I've put the door back together and back to square 1. 😔 I'm taking the evening off had enough. 

There'd been several times over the years when our Fabia ii suddenly without warning, loses the ability to close or move some of its windows. Its usually on a warm day, I've parked up, cranked down one or more windows part way. Then after a while, wanting to close them, turn on ignition and they won't move from the switches. Sometimes I can get individual windows closed by using the local switches, or sometimes use the key in the drivers lock held in lock position to close them, but it doesn't always work, and there doesnt seem to be a pattern.

 

Then if I go for a drive, or just leave the car locked, after a few minutes  they mysteriously start to work again, with no further problems for weeks or months.

 

It is rare, doesn't happen very often, but definitely a real and random occurence, and sometimes its only one window, sometimes more thats affected, different each time.

 

I put it down to a software/module/CANBUS glitch. Not sure what modules there are in or what they're called, but maybe its to do with body/convenience functions, central locking or CANBUS. You mentioned OBD port wasn't working so it could be CANBUS related, a dicky module or wiring/connector, not necessarily one directly associated with the windows.

 

As it always comes back to normal after a few minutes at most, I just live with it. Once, when I parked somewhere in Sheffield and I really needed to leave the car unattended and the windows refused point blank to close, I did think about disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. But the wife then came back so instead I just drove off with windows down and voila, again after a few minutes, normal service was restored.

 

You need to get the OBD port working methinks and scan for errors.

The BCM - J519 - is not really involved with the front electric windows. It is the J387 - driverside controller - and J386 - passenger controller and J393 - convenience module.

 

J393 has CAN bus input, but not the door controllers.

Bertie I would go back to measuring currents and continuity when the windoes work for 5 or 10 miutes and after they stopped working.

When you get the function back after moving wires it suggests a broken wire or corroded connection. If the driver side window switch is not working, but lights are on it could be the earth connection.

If the car was involved in an accident and repaired you might be hunting more than one faulty / failing connection.

 

Is the OBD II port not compulsory for a MOT test these days? I might be wrong.

Thank you for the suggestions. The OBD 2 came to life and i don't know why. I will try and purchase a module but I find it difficult to find the part without going to a dealer. From the previous owner I understand the issue started when the garage changed the door after nthe accident. I can't even confirm if the module is the correct part or of they used the same module as the original car who knows. 

 

The passenger window does exactly what you said xman. So I will take readings as you suggested. 

Here's something that I read in the owners manual

 

Operational Faults

Electrical power windows do not operate
If the battery has been disconnected and then reconnected while the window was opened, the electrical power windows will not operate. The system must be activated. Proceed as follows to re-establish the function.
› Switch on the ignition.
› Pull the top edge of the button in the driver's door and close the window.
› Release the button.
› Pull the relevant button upwards again for another approximately 3 seconds and hold.

 

 

You might want to try that after disconnecting/reconnecting the battery (but make sure you have the key in your hand and your door is open in case the central locking locks the car)

 

Another thing that came to mind is the possibility of the door card mounted alarm overide button playing some role in your problems.

@Bertie90 a few questions to establish the state of play of what's on the car right now:

Does the car just have front electric windows? Manual windows in rear doors?

What is the part number of the window module in the front passenger door? If you do just have front electric windows I expect it will be either 6Y1959802 or 6Q1959802E?

What is the part number of the window module in the front driver's side door?

I don't remember the part number for passenger but I will check this evening. This is what's on the driver's side now. 

I have only front electric windows and manual rear. 

thats the correct one for DRIVERS DOOR RHD...............although the issue could be where its made

Edited 6 April, 20215 yr by UrbanPanzer

It'll be interesting to see what's on the passenger side.

The bottom line of that part number label has me a little confused. 

Looking here, for cars built up to 04/11/07, the full part number (for driver's side RHD) given in ETKA is 6Y1959801 SK3.

The only bit on yours that looks anything like this SK3 suffix actually starts off SK2... on that bottom line.*

This page suggests that the 6Y1959801 SK2 part was only fitted to Roomsters: Buy 6Y1959801SK2 window regulator motor Skoda genuine OEM part (oemwolf.com)

 

 

Wait, did you already swap another module into driver's side? This SK2 one? Have you still got the old/previous one? Did that one ever work right?

 

*Information that I came upon later suggest that this bottom line of info on the sticker probably doesn't have any direct correlation with the "SKn" suffix shown on ETKA pages anyway.

Edited 29 April, 20215 yr by Wino
added info discovered later

Bear in mind "if" the part was updated from SK2 to SK3, then the current version of ETKA would display that

 

I'm not so sure the SK part really matters, its now up to SK5........although I would like to know what it refers to.

I know what you mean, but I checked on the oemwolf page that I linked above, and it shows SK2 going direct to SK5.  If it had intermediate steps, they'd be shown as a sequence of steps in my experience. SK3 has been superseded by SK6. SK1 supersedes to SK4, 

I don't know what it means nor if it is important but there must be some difference otherwise they wouldn't have the suffix.

 

@Tech1e do you know what the SK.. suffix on the part numbers of the window motor modules tells you, please?  Can you mix and match? 

 

 

Edited 7 April, 20215 yr by Wino
missed a magic word

On 07/04/2021 at 06:47, Wino said:

Wait, did you already swap another module into driver's side? This SK2 one? Have you still got the old/previous one? Did that one ever work right?

 That is what it was inside when I bought the car. 

 

I did buy another one but....for someone reason it didn't work, and it looked different inside the PCB, yet the connectors plugged in fine and had the same part number. Now, when I was plugging back the original, then it worked for a few minutes. Basically the replacement never worked but it didn't something somewhere. I sold the replacement on eBay. So still have the "original" 

 

 

Edited 8 April, 20215 yr by Bertie90

On 15/02/2021 at 16:09, Bertie90 said:

the door was replaced due to an accident

During or before your ownership? If it was during, did that module ^ come with the replacement door, or was it transferred across from the car's original door?

5 hours ago, Wino said:

During or before your ownership? If it was during, did that module ^ come with the replacement door, or was it transferred across from the car's original door?

It came to me in this state. I don't know if the garage used the original parts from the car or they just picked up a door and plugged it in. 

 

Btw this is a video I made when I was trying it all out. It's a random video as I expected the outcome to be different. 

 

https://youtu.be/3Mxy6RMpMDE

So it is a Roomster, not a mk2 Fabia?!

Yeah sorry, I keep forgeting that. Isn't it pretty much a fabia mk2? I got a 2013 Fabia and a 07 Roomster. Issue is with the roomster

Edited 8 April, 20215 yr by Bertie90

They are pretty similar, but now I can be looking at the right wiring diagrams and the right parts list.  May help me to help you better.  The suffix SK2 part now looks more plausible as the original, factory fitted module. 

 

Talk to you tomorrow. 

 

Sorry, of course makes sense. Fyi, this is the part from the passenger door. 

 

 

So I took a reading from the passenger side. The + and - wires read 12v constantly and the window was working. I went to the driver side, and checked same wires, I had 0V. But I remember in the past they also had 12v. 

 

I went back to the passenger side. Window not working now (5min in) now the voltage is around 5/6V. Then less than 1min O voltage as well. Ignition is fully on. 0 voltage, but then the window works. 

Edited 8 April, 20215 yr by Bertie90

I would be leaning towards the door control unit on the drivers side..................unless you have tried another ?

Edited 8 April, 20215 yr by UrbanPanzer

Check/change the battery in your meter first in case it's on the blink.

 

The thick red/white wires to each motor are permanent 12V feeds direct from fuses 51 and 52 , both 25 Amp rated. Thick brown wire is earth.

 

Have you at any point checked or replaced these two fuses, looking at their pins for signs of dirtiness or corrosion, or loose fit into the fusebox?

2 hours ago, Wino said:

Check/change the battery in your meter first in case it's on the blink.

 

The thick red/white wires to each motor are permanent 12V feeds direct from fuses 51 and 52 , both 25 Amp rated. Thick brown wire is earth.

 

Have you at any point checked or replaced these two fuses, looking at their pins for signs of dirtiness or corrosion, or loose fit into the fusebox?

 

Yes, fuse 51, 52, 11, all been changed new.

 

I will change the battery in the meter, but i did check a car battery to see if the meter was working.

Have a look at the voltage at the black/blue wire in pin 2 of the 6-way connector on the drivers side, when ignition is on (or engine running). That's what comes from fuse 11, so should have 12V whenever ignition is on.