Drivers door window, grating noise and only just got it closed..

[fatscoleymo]

Today, window went down with a 'clunk', then rough noises and juddering getting it closed.

Any idea's, easy home fix? How do I get the door card off to have a look?

Thanks,
fats

[chimaera]

Sounds like the window regulator has failed. Mine sounded a lot like you describe when it finally died. When I got the old regulator out, the cable had broken due to rust. Straightforward if fiddly DIY job.

 

Check your PM for more info.

[andrehj]

21 hours ago, chimaera said:

Sounds like the window regulator has failed. Mine sounded a lot like you describe when it finally died. When I got the old regulator out, the cable had broken due to rust. Straightforward if fiddly DIY job.

 

Check your PM for more info.

I may have a similar issue (window mechanism doesn't sound too healthy). Can you post that info in this topic as well?

[JohnnyRich]

There is obviously a window virus going about. I am having exactly the same problem as you guys, my driver's door window started to close, got halfway, made a few grunting sounds and will only go down fully. I have checked the Youtube videos (hilarious) and removed the trim, but am a bit worried about what to do next. Any detailed information on getting to the regulator would be most welcome, plus some idea of the cost of a replacement? Cheers. 

[mwlee512]

This is interesting as my drivers door regulator also decided to give up last week in the exact same way.

 

I took it in to my local dealer to get it replaced and they started by telling me the part was unavailable and on a 6 week back order (seems many are failing currently)

 

In the end they 'managed' to get one next day.

 

Hope you guys have got it sorted by now anyway, but as Johnny said, must be something going around.

[fatscoleymo]

Received my replacement regulator a few days ago and plan to do the job this coming week.  Will try and post a few photos of the swap out.

[JohnnyRich]

Gentlemen... I have now replaced the regulator on my 2011 Superb, using the usual web based training courses on Youtube (unfortunately I don't speak Russian/Polish/Serbo-Croat so didn't understand a word), and sourcing the parts from Ebay. I was astonished that the Skoda dealer quoted me well over £100 MORE for the part than the equivalent on Ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194054042937, so I decided to risk the cheaper version. To all intents and purposes, it looks and feels the same as the original; maybe the cables are not as strong, but I think they'll last the life of the car. Importantly, everything fitted as it should, so it was £60 well spent I hope.

 

The door card was pretty straightforward to remove, although as usual there are two fiddly wiring connectors which were really annoying - a very small one needed an electrical screw driver inserted to lift the plastic to separate the connection, The other point I found was that the plastic pins that locate in the holes in the door were mostly broken away from the door card; the result of previous removal I think. But there are 5 screws (two large, 3 small) holding the door card on, so they don't really contribute much.

 

In my case the cable had frayed and properly jammed the spool under the motor, so when everything was removed (unclipped wiring, regulator, electric motor, and steel plate) I had to cut the cables to be able to move the window into position to remove the dowels. Tip number one: with the window freed, I used a few strips of very wide Sellotape looped over the top of the door and stuck to the window to keep it in position. If you make sure you have put a tag on each end of the Sellotape, you can lift the tape off, reposition the window and replace it. This is essential when fitting the new regulator. Tip 2: the Torx screws holding the regulator "arms" do not have to be fully removed; the holes are slotted at the top, so the screws can be loosened and the arms lifted up and away. A bit of a fiddle, but stops the screws falling into the void at the bottom of the door. Which brings me to... Tip 3: Do yourself a favour and lay a large rag or towel along the bottom of the door, over the foam rubber buffer (this I tried to remove, but it was REALLY well stuck down). I did loss a screw or two, and a window dowel, into the depths of the door skin and it was murder trying to get them out. My arm looked like I had been attacked by a razor-slash gang.

 

If the window is "floating" without support, it does have a tendency to slip out of the front channel. Yes, this happened to me before I thought of the Sellotape trick, and this means removing the stuck-on plastic cover towards the front of the door to fiddle it back into place. I just taped it back into place after the job was done. 

 

Other points arising: the window needs lifting to a position where the white plastic dowels/roll pins can be removed from the carrier on each side. Don't loosen the screws on the arms before taking out these dowels/roll-pins. There is an inner and outer pin going through the carrier and window, and these are just drifted out using a shouldered drift, small for the inner pin and larger for the outer. But don't go too mad with a hammer on the drifts; you are trying to move stuff through glass and shattering the window doesn't bear thinking about. When fitting the roll-pins back into the new carrier and window, slightly loosen the screws on the arms to allow a bit of float to locate the roll-pins better; it's still a bit of a struggle, and you may need something solid to push the pins in from behind. 

 

So, not an easy job but worth noting the tips above. Good luck guys! 

 

[lichfielddriver]

well my window regulator broke in December

 

Skoda had none/nil/nacht/SFA for ...estimated 3 months

 

Off Ebay i ended with THREE (dont ask) for total of £55

 

local garage fitted on for £90

 

lasted a month then the glass parted company with the regulator..............back to the garage

 

a "grommet" had broken, they glued it together and it worked (cost me £30)

 

However, with it looking like im keeping the car now for 12 or 18 months im having a Skoda regulator fitted at Skoda, hopefully getting 2 years warranty

 

might cost £300 (if the mysterious "grommet" doesnt feck it up..

 

cant id it off the VW parts list pages

 

 

[DrCorbyLee]

In a similar situation, albeit with passenger door (the driver's door regulator failed and was replaced under extended warranty 18 months ago) which failed couple of months ago.  Last week I finally got around to booking it in at Skoda dealership and was booked in for this Thursday but had confirmation this morning that the regulator is on back order so had to cancel awaiting confirmation of when the part will be available, hopefully before current extended warranty expires.  Suspect yet another knock on effect of Brexit.