andrehj

Completely agree with @chimaera above. Changing the flywheel to a single mass version is a very bad idea. First: The original double-mass one lasted 175.000 miles. If the new one has the same lifetime, that should be more than enough for the lifetime of the car. Second: A dual mass flywheel dampens vibrations, especially at low RPM. The vibrations cause premature wear, not only on the crankschaft, but also in the gearbox, The gears and bearings are now subject to all vibrations caused by the engine, something theys are not designed for! Third: These vibrations also lower the comfort level of the car. Why do you think they invented dual mass flywheels in a business where every penny counts?

You cannot draw that conclusion based on a scan! The scan only shows which sensor gives a bad signal, but that does not tell you the cause of the problem! The cause can be: Broken wiring Broken (or oxidized) magnetic ring on the wheel bearing. Broken sensor Broken ABS/ESP module. etc First perform a proper diagnosis before randomly replacing parts!

You need a capable garage. If the garage cannot even diagnose the difference between a failing battery and a failing alternator, they are useless and should stop calling themselves a garage. Simply connect a multimeter to a 12V line and measure the voltage. With a running engine that should be around 14V. If it is around 12V, than your battery won't charge, and their is something wrong with the alternator or the voltage regulator.

This is a very common issue. Please refer to this old topic:

Usually it's the wiring harness in the front drivers door that's the problem. Inspect it and fix it when found broken.

@CabooseRecluse: Any idea about the age and brand of the failing spark plug? I've replaced mine twice, always at 60.000 km intervals, and they still were in very good condition. Doing such a simple job yourself is not expensive and very simple. Top brand spark plugs (Bosch, NGK) cost less than €13: https://www.autodoc.nl/auto-onderdelen/bougie-10251/skoda/superb/superb-stationwagen-3t5/32784-1-8-tsi?supplier[0]=30&supplier[1]=15 Did somebody save on maintenance?

That's because in the UK the driver's seat is on the wrong side of the car 😅. The claim is valid for Skoda's which drive on the right side of the road. You will find it under the passenger's (or left) seat.

All the info you need is in this topic: (hint: this forum has a search function, using it would have saved you writing this post...)

@aero-hot That changes things. This topic is about the tensioner, so I assumed your price of £1400 was for just the tensioner. If you also exchanged the complete distribution, the price seams a lot more reasonable.

That's a ridiculous amount of money for just the exchange of the belt tensioner! I've had my dealer replace the tensioner of my 1.8 TSI somewhere around 2014 for €350, which is around £300...

@Darealspoon I had a similar (same?) issue with our MY2012 S2. I posted the problem (and the solution) on the Dutch Skodaforum. You can probably read it with Google Translate: https://www.skodaforum.nl/forum/i/schakelaar-binnenverlichting-doorgebrand-→-nieuwste-artikelnummer.46070/

Since you are the one with access to the car, you are the only one who can answer this question. Simply crawl under the car (only when on secure jack stands!), clean everything, and see where the oil comes from.

In 99% of these cases the problem is not in the passenger door, but in the driver's door, since that one has much more open-close cycles, and therefore the wires wear faster.

That's probably because the system checks these lights at startup. With halogen bulbs these short pulses are unnoticed. Was there a particular reason to replace these bulbs? I use high beam less than 1% of the time, and have no complaints about the enormous amount of light that my bi-xenon headlights (together with the Halogen high beams) emit.

The airbag indicator is not part of the stereo, it's just attached to the facia, so you have to disconnect it if you remove the facia.

That is most of the time not correct, the right answer is written above by @Breezy_Pete

Oil pressure should be in the range of 1 - 4 bar, depending on RPM. I don't know the exact figures for a 1.6 tdi, but 100 or 200 bar is absolutely impossible.

Why don't you start measuring? First measure total standby current at the battery to determine whether you have a battery problem or a consumption problem. Than measure the current at the main fuses one by one. This will give you a rough idea of the problem location. Than measure the small fuses behind that main fuse to find out which circuit is causing the problem. Simply replacing parts without a thorough analysis is not smart.

Check this post I made (use Chrome to translate) in 2015 about the tensioner problem. If your tensioner has never been replaced, you still have the old type, which is prone to fail. My advise would be to have a capable garage replace the tensioner a.s.a.p. Only start the car one more time (if you dare) for the visit to that garage. Edit: If you read the complete thread resulting from the post above, you have all the information you need, including the official Skoda TPI about the tensioner versions.

That is the only correct way to go. 👍 I also suspect there is a problem somewhere in the ABS circuit, and most likely also a broken bulb (which bulb it is can be found somewhere in the maxidot menu).

The battery might be the problem, before buying a new battery a small analysis (monitor battery voltage during engine off, starting and engine on) might be useful. Otherwise you drop yourself to the level of so-called mechanics who do not perform any fault-analysis, but simply replace random parts (at the customer's cost) until the problem is solved....

In that case the check is pretty straightforward. @Pilchhallcan simply measure the voltage on the command wire when the fans run with the car off. If that is the case (which I suspect it is), the problem is not in the Fan module, but somehow the engine ECU switches the fan on. It may also be a drowned ECU which is causing this problem, similar like the Passat in this video (scroll to 5:44 and turn on the subtitles if you do not understand German):

Could also be a broken spring. Go to a capable garage and have the car inspected.

I already did that in the previous post (valve overlap). The inlet camshaft has a hydraulically operated adjuster. By changing this adjuster, the inlet valve opens earlier, during the last part of the exhaust phase. In this way part of the exhaust gasses are blown into the inlet, and reused.

This advice is useless. Please learn how the EGR of an 1.8 TSI works before giving wrong advice...