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Service changes needed at 80k miles

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My skoda is 8 yrs old this nov.  It has 80k on the clock and has been serviced once per year by a local garage or myself.

 

The only stuff changed in these years has been the usual filters and oil yearly and the brake pads and discs (fluid) once.

 

What should i be looking to get checked out at this older stage ?  Do i need to get the timing belt changed ?  What is the cost of all the bits associated with the timing belt.  I think i need the water pump, tensioner, aux belt and coolant doing.  Is there anything else to look at ?

 

I notice i am getting a funny noise when the car is in idle at junctions or traffic lights.  Could this be a belt sound ?

Hi yeti99

 

I think we need to know a bit more about your car.  "My skoda" isn't much to go on.

Lots depends on what has been done at previous services, and importantly what engine, gearbox and drive-train the car has.

Screenshot 2021-06-04 at 15.12.14.jpg

  • Author

It’s a Skoda yeti 2l diesel 2 wheel drive. 2013 yr

 

nothing has been done except annual filters and oil changes

At the least, it will require a brake fluid change, cam belt and water pump, pollen filter, air filter, fuel filter.

And if it’s DSG, DSG oil change.

Edited by Kenny R

  • Author

Yes it will need the filters and oil changing as has been done every yr.  I just havent had anything else done.

 

What does DSG stand for ?

  • Author

I will get a local guy to do it.  So oil, filters, cambelt, tensioner, aux belt,  water pump, coolant and gear box oil

 

I will buy all the bits, but any idea what the labour cost will be ?  I'm thinking maybe £150

1 minute ago, yeti99 said:

I will get a local guy to do it.  So oil, filters, cambelt, tensioner, aux belt,  water pump, coolant and gear box oil

 

I will buy all the bits, but any idea what the labour cost will be ?  I'm thinking maybe £150

Didn't see you mention if it was a 4x4 Yeti, if so the Haldex fluid needs done, plus I'd also pull the filter and clean or replace dependant on which Haldex is fitted.

  • Author

it not 4x4, just basic 2 wheel D

12 hours ago, yeti99 said:

Yes it will need the filters and oil changing as has been done every yr.  I just havent had anything else done.

 

What does DSG stand for ?

 

DSG is short for Direktschaltgetriebe or Direct Shift Gearbox.  VW's name for it's dual clutch automatic gearbox.  Some variants of this require an oil change every 40k miles.

 

If yours is a manual you don't need it.

11 hours ago, yeti99 said:

 

 

I will buy all the bits, but any idea what the labour cost will be ?  I'm thinking maybe £150

 

 

The cambelt and water pump is labour intensive and requires a coolant change.  For this Skoda will charge £600+ and an independent around £450 to £550 including parts.

Here a la frog, if you use a VW independant they use 'genuine ' parts and offer a 2 yr guarantee, at an exorbitant price, I supplied the parts and, they were not too happy, however the overall cost was much reduced with no guarantee. Cannot remember the marque of the parts, I can find it, but much used in the USA think it began with a G!

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

Hi all

 

I have had the service done and the timing belt changed.  The issue with a bit of noise/vibration on the clutch is the fly wheel.

 

So i am going to need to get this changed.

 

I have been told to buy a dual mast flywheel and clutch assembly kit.

 

Looking on car parts for less i can see this kit for about £130.  It seems cheap, but says there is a flywheel in the kit (in vehicle spec section).

 

So can anyone confirm if this kit is all i need or do i need to buy seperate pieces for this job.  I will check with my mate as well.

 

https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/clutch-kit

Edited by yeti99

I seem to think dual mass flywheels come in at £200-£300, so I would say that that price is only for the clutch.

  • Author

Yes i think so to.  It is looking like £500 for a clutch kit and flywheel and bolts.

 

Some of the clutch kits differin size by 2mm.  Does this matter ?  So i am looking at getting 230mm diameter, but you can also get 228mm.

 

Also any ideas on best brands ?  Thinking about using  LUK

No mention of the 80k DPF service/clean?

  • Author
2 minutes ago, b1ackb1rd said:

No mention of the 80k DPF service/clean?

No this didnt happen.  Is it easy to clean out ?  I might ask him to do it when he changes the flywheel set up.  Doing it in 3 weeks time.

9 minutes ago, yeti99 said:

Is it easy to clean out ? 

 

$64,000 question ...

 

A 'proper' clean involves removing the DPF from the car and subjecting with a chemical clean that removed the accumulates soot, and more importantly the deposited ash. 

 

Many use additives in the tank, or spray which is applied directly into the DPF to try and minimise the accumulation ... when buying used, you are in the twilight zone as you have no idea of the car's history. 

Edited by b1ackb1rd

  • Author

I use additives as the warning light has been on this year.  It gone now, so i am going to use them more regularly.  So 3 x per yr.

1 minute ago, yeti99 said:

I use additives as the warning light has been on this year.  It gone now, so i am going to use them more regularly.  So 3 x per yr.

 

The light indicates a regen is in process, often this can't happen as the DPF is blocked, or the EGR is causing a problem - it's complicated !

 

£25 on an OBD2 plug will allow you to use an app such as VAG PDF which will give you a clearer picture. 

@yeti99 put the kettle on, and do some reading on these pages and others before you make any decisions. 

58 minutes ago, b1ackb1rd said:

The light indicates a regen is in process,

That's not correct for a normal regen, the only way to tell a regen is in progress is oil temperature will be raised by a few degrees, tickover raised by about 200 rpm and sounding gruff, a hot burning smell from the exhaust and cooling fans running when engine switched off, but there is no light on dashboard that a regen is in progress.

  • Author

Our car regened the other week.  So it seems all is ok at the moment.  No warning light so i will just keep adding in the cleaners every so often.

10 minutes ago, Urrell said:

That's not correct for a normal regen, the only way to tell a regen is in progress is oil temperature will be raised by a few degrees, tickover raised by about 200 rpm and sounding gruff, a hot burning smell from the exhaust and cooling fans running when engine switched off, but there is no light on dashboard that a regen is in progress.

 

This is when my Greenline goes into limp mode at the slightest provocation. 

 

Mine is 2012, I get all of these symptoms of a passive regen but the light also shows.

 

Calculated ash figure is 80% so perhaps mine is in end of life care? 

The DPF light indicates a problem. It's not an indication of a regen happening, but an indication that you need to either force a regen, drive at higher revs for a period to burn off soot accumulation, or the DPF is seriously choked and needs replacement. In normal use you'd never see the DPF light except for the test procedure on start up.

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