On a slight side note in your quest to revive your multimedia, I would recommend that you create "controller maps" of the whole car before making any changes with VCDS even if you are confident to do so. 

 

This is a backup of all module codes and all adaptions that each control module contains. You might be able to reset the tyre pressure warning in basic settings of the ABS module, without a working infotainment screen @PetrolDave@langers2k might like to able to add to this suggestion? 

 

If you require any instructions on how controller maps are created please let us know and we will guide you.

 

PS auto scans are automatically saved in the SCANS folder in the root folder of VCDS. I love this read me file in the folder that Ross Tech added,  made me chuckle. 

 

"Files in this folder are automatically created,
because we got tired of hearing,
"Yes, I did an Auto-Scan, but I didn't save it." 

 

Regards.

 

Edited 5 July, 20214 yr by paulski

26 minutes ago, paulski said:

On a slight side note in your quest to revive your multimedia, I would recommend that you create "controller maps" of the whole car before making any changes with VCDS even if you are confident to do so. 

 

This is a backup of all module codes and all adaptions that each control module contains. You might be able to reset the tyre pressure warning in basic settings of the ABS module, without a working infotainment screen @PetrolDave@langers2k might like to able to add to this suggestion? 

 

If you require any instructions on how controller maps are created please let us know and we will guide you.

 

PS auto scans are automatically saved in the SCANS folder in the root folder of VCDS. I love this read me file in the folder that Ross Tech added,  made me chuckle. 

 

"Files in this folder are automatically created,
because we got tired of hearing,
"Yes, I did an Auto-Scan, but I didn't save it." 

 

Regards.

 

Yes would like to know how controller maps are created. I learn better when being shown rather than reading manuals!  Yes I read the read me file and have saved the log file on my PC as well as my laptop [hard drives can fail, and will do so when you really need that file]

 

Thanks to everyone who is helping!

17 minutes ago, jd29 said:

Yes would like to know how controller maps are created. I learn better when being shown rather than reading manuals!  Yes I read the read me file and have saved the log file on my PC as well as my laptop [hard drives can fail, and will do so when you really need that file]

 

Thanks to everyone who is helping!

PM sent to your message box

If you can, it's better to post a full auto scan (just copy and paste all of it) as that'll give more context

 

On the face of it, that suggests the headunit is fine but the display might not be. I'd remove the display and check for power/ground and if they're fine, do some basic (continuity) checks for the data wires back to the headunit. At a guess, on the display's 12 pin connector pin 1 is power and pin 7 is ground. I'm not 100% on that so don't try and add power there unless you've checked the factory WD!

 

 

I'm not sure on that age of car, but I think fuse 10 on the internal fuse panel (behind the glovebox) should be the screen. If you haven't already, I'd replace that with a new fuse or at least check the existing one for damage or microfractures.

11 hours ago, langers2k said:

If you can, it's better to post a full auto scan (just copy and paste all of it) as that'll give more context

 

On the face of it, that suggests the headunit is fine but the display might not be. I'd remove the display and check for power/ground and if they're fine, do some basic (continuity) checks for the data wires back to the headunit. At a guess, on the display's 12 pin connector pin 1 is power and pin 7 is ground. I'm not 100% on that so don't try and add power there unless you've checked the factory WD!

 

 

I'm not sure on that age of car, but I think fuse 10 on the internal fuse panel (behind the glovebox) should be the screen. If you haven't already, I'd replace that with a new fuse or at least check the existing one for damage or microfractures.

Full auto scan attached.

 

Will be continuity checking the display later today (won't be adding power!

 

Fuse 10 is the radio according to the owners handbook, and I pulled that to stop the radio's quiet playing as the volume control on the display does not work. So that fuse is okay. I went looking for a Display screen fuse as soon as I realised that the screen wasn't working. Couldn't find one listed. Seems odd that there isn't a fuse to protect the screen against power surges (like numpties touching a socket bar against the positive terminal ).

 

Thanks,

John

Log-FD63 BSX-TMBKG7NE6E0116084-128983km-80146mi-v2.txt

Most of those codes are just because you pulled the fuse

 

Are you sure it's fuse 10 you've been removing? The online owners manual suggests 12 is the radio and 10 is the screen for your VIN:

 

Which tallies with the factory WD I have:

 

The six wires on the left (to E380) should be easy enough to check for continuity between the headunit quadlock and display connector as the WD shows both ends.

 

The 4 wires and shield on the right (to J685) will be the fakra cable used for the video connection which is likely to be fine.

1 hour ago, langers2k said:

Most of those codes are just because you pulled the fuse

 

Are you sure it's fuse 10 you've been removing? The online owners manual suggests 12 is the radio and 10 is the screen for your VIN:

So if I drive the car around the block those codes will auto reset?

 

Got it into my head that the radio was fuse 10. You are quite right, radio is fuse 12 and is okay. I have just pulled fuse 10 and that tests out fine. When I was looking for the screen in the manual, I was looking for "Display Screen" and completely missed that it is "touchscreen". Damn!

 

Off to try and test the rest of the feeds to the screen

On 06/07/2021 at 14:27, jd29 said:

So if I drive the car around the block those codes will auto reset?

 

Got it into my head that the radio was fuse 10. You are quite right, radio is fuse 12 and is okay. I have just pulled fuse 10 and that tests out fine. When I was looking for the screen in the manual, I was looking for "Display Screen" and completely missed that it is "touchscreen". Damn!

 

Off to try and test the rest of the feeds to the screen

Hi Langers2k,

 

Checked the feed to the sceen and came up with some interesting results. The red/white, blue/white, orange/brown and orange/grey all gave a full scale kick on the ohms meter so no continuity issues there. However there were an orange cable which gave nothing, and and orange/lilac which gave a small reading 3000 ohms rather than the 100,000 ohm full scale reading.

 

I could not see any sign of the latter two cables on the diagrams you sent me linking to anything that made sense. Am I missing something? Also I am used to continuity tests being a yes/no result and not a small meter reading, which I do not understand. I have attached a picture showing the cables at the head unit end of the loom to demonstrate that the plain orange cable is really a plain orange cable!

 

The fakra cable, as you suspected showed full connectivity.

 

I am at a loss as to what I should do next.

 

Cheers,

John

Added some circles:

 

Assuming I'm in the right orientation:

- The four wires circled in blue go to the display as per the WD

- The two wires circled in yellow are CAN-bus for the headunit to communicate with the car

 

It sounds like you've checked the four (blue circled) cables back to the display connector and they are fine which is good.

We know the two (yellow circled) cables are fine as the headunit communicates with VCDS.

 

Have you checked for power and ground at the display connector?

 

If they also check out, I'd be looking for an inexpensive used display on eBay as a next stage. I think they are sub £100 for this headunit...

1 hour ago, langers2k said:

It sounds like you've checked the four (blue circled) cables back to the display connector and they are fine which is good.

We know the two (yellow circled) cables are fine as the headunit communicates with VCDS.

 

Have you checked for power and ground at the display connector?

 

If they also check out, I'd be looking for an inexpensive used display on eBay as a next stage. I think they are sub £100 for this headunit...

Your assumptions on what  I have done and found are correct.

Now I understand what the yellow ones are and why we can tick them as fine,  thanks

 

I have ground on socket 7 of the display connector (useful for them to have them numbers marked!). 2.5volts on socket 3 and 1.5volts on socket 9. So if that is what you expect we are looking good.

 

I have sourced a display unit on ebay and will be buying it this evening.

 

Hopefully all will be well when I fit it!   I will keep you posted with the outcome.

 

John

 

Did you check pin 1 on the display connector had 12v?

7 minutes ago, langers2k said:

Did you check pin 1 on the display connector had 12v?

I checked all the pins and the only ones that had earth or voltage are those mentioned. Pin 1 certainly had nothing.

4 minutes ago, jd29 said:

I checked all the pins and the only ones that had earth or voltage are those mentioned. Pin 1 certainly had nothing.

Thinking about it, pin 1 is the orange lead that I had no continuity between the display unit connector and the 12 pin connector on the head unit which we were assuming was because that was CAN bus.

Pin 1 at the display connector end should be red based on the WD I have and posted above.

 

It should go directly to fuse 10 and therefore have 12v on it.

 

If it doesn't, you need to figure out why as that'll stop the display working...

19 hours ago, langers2k said:

Pin 1 at the display connector end should be red based on the WD I have and posted above.

 

It should go directly to fuse 10 and therefore have 12v on it.

 

If it doesn't, you need to figure out why as that'll stop the display working...

Sorted. We have 12v on pin 1.

 

Main dealer replaced the fuse for slot 10 in slot 9 and in the dim light under the dash I couldn't see the slots, so pulled and checked the fuse far right thinking that it was fuse 10!

 

Now awaiting the delivery of the replacement display.

On 08/07/2021 at 14:10, jd29 said:

Sorted. We have 12v on pin 1.

 

Main dealer replaced the fuse for slot 10 in slot 9 and in the dim light under the dash I couldn't see the slots, so pulled and checked the fuse far right thinking that it was fuse 10!

 

Now awaiting the delivery of the replacement display.

All fitted and fixed. Everything is back to normal. Many thanks for all the assistance.

@jd29 I think you owe @langers2k some virtual beer tokens, but that aside good to see your efforts succeeded and got it all up and running again. Must be quite a relief to be able to reset your TPMS again too! 

 

Enjoy having VCDS, quite frankly it's the best diagnostic tool for any VW group enthusiast. 

12 hours ago, paulski said:

@jd29 I think you owe @langers2k some virtual beer tokens, but that aside good to see your efforts succeeded and got it all up and running again. Must be quite a relief to be able to reset your TPMS again too! 

 

Enjoy having VCDS, quite frankly it's the best diagnostic tool for any VW group enthusiast. 

I think you are right!   Very relieved to have got everything working, and am very grateful to @langers2k for his assistance. Hopefully we can get together for him to cash in on the drinks tokens sometime.

Heh, no worries, happy to help

 

We probably went a little overboard checking the wiring but I like to rule out as much as possible before spending money on parts.

 

Still, nice to see the dealer got it right with a blown display and weren't just throwing parts at the problem!