While on my way back home after a 20 mile run when the car (1998 1.3 Felicia) the oil pressure light started to flash when I accelerated it went off and happened again before I got home. A little history on the car I am the only owner purchased new in 1998 car has had lots of care with regular and I mean regular oil changes.

About 1000 miles ago I started to get a tinkerling sound from the engine like pinking tried lots of different petrol and a octane booster that did not work, Asked my mechanic and he could not come up with any thing so I just drove the car and like I say that started some time ago. I wonder if this is connected to the oil light.

I intend to change the oil pressure switch  and oil filter the oil was changed 500 miles ago Shell 15/40, if nothing happens then back to the garage.

Any one have any ideas ?

How many miles done in its life so far?

98,800 Miles

Let's start with a oil level check first thing in the morning.

Look under the car for any oil leaks too.

Don't buy anything yet. Remember the rule: 1st find the cause -> buy parts.

Thanks for the reply Ric will do.

4 hours ago, mikefelicia said:

I intend to change the oil pressure switch

First check the oil level.

Examine the pressure switch for signs of oil leakage there.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Ricardo I have checked the oil level and it is ok were it should be and clean there is nothing dripping under the car onto the ground car stood for 17 hours and nothing on the driveway. 

 

The car has 98,756 miles on the clock have had it from new.

 

I need to emphasize this car has had a lot of TLC.

Edited 17 August, 20214 yr by mikefelicia

Pressure switches can fail by leaking through themselves, after the diaphragm fails. that's why I suggested examining it locally. Might not leak much, but shouldn't leak at all if intact.

13 hours ago, mikefelicia said:

While on my way back home after a 20 mile run when the car (1998 1.3 Felicia) the oil pressure light started to flash when I accelerated it went off and happened again before I got home.

 

Happened to me few year ago twice:

first on curbs while driving ''sport style" especially on S style which means the car was turning left-right-left abruptly but after a while stopped

second while driving in straight line few minutes before i go to the mandatory technical inspection (it's every 2 years here in Greece), my eyes goggled and i said to my self ''that's it, they will cut me and send me back for inspection" but after few minutes nothing happened and i pass the test.

Guess what? after few days while driving calmly the same thing happened !

I checked the oil level, for leaks, the filter etc and everything were OK, i called my mechanic and explained everything and he said to me ''bring it here to change the oil pressure switch" and after changing it 4 years now the red light never blinked while driving.

1 hour ago, mikefelicia said:

Thanks for the help guys.

So we're clear, checking the oil level is quick, cheap and might work. @Wino identifies one switch failure mode: there's another one where a carbon particle gets into the the switch, and the fix for both is a new oil pressure switch.

Yes I had the same expirience oil pressure switch playinn dirty tricks on me.

Remove the oil pressure switch get a plastic container remove the coil plugs plug and crank the engine briefly.

If a heck load of oil flows out the oil pressure is a ok and you just need a new switch.

Put the oil back in and you are set.

I have cleaned around the switch with some Gunk there was a fair amount of oil, a new pressure switch is on order should be here tomorrow (Wed 11th).

 

Well after the cleaning of the area and switch and the connecter I have driven a few miles and NO light come on will continue to use and see how it go's weather to install the new one when it arrives, in the mean time the new lower hose has arrived a genuine in its original packaging.

With regarding the pinking noise I will just carry on using the car as I have no idea and my mechanic what it is sometimes it is louder than other times, ho well I am deaf in one ear and not good in the other (3 operations) being deaf do's have its advatages like not hearing the wife.

Once again it is nice that you guys take the time to listen to me and help I thank you so much.

So onward.

16 hours ago, mikefelicia said:

will continue to use and see how it go's weather to install the new one when it arrives

 

Since the level on the oil stick is OK and you have no oil leaks let it as is till the new switch arrives.

2 times that light gave me nightmares and i hate it because turning back the time i remembered that was finally were 3 times.

The last one was when i was returning home from vacations, i knew that there was no problem with the oil level and the mechanic had already ordered a new one but the damned switch decide that for last time he wanted to give me multiple on-off ref light blinks.

I was reviling him all the time till arrive back home.

@mikefelicia

Since you say oil level is good, no leaks (although you are changing a hose softened by oil?) then the most efficient diagnose is to mount an oil manometer in place of the oil pressure switch.

Let us know the pressure at idle and at 2500 rpm.

 

Edit: By the way, a few more questions:

1. Did you use a different type of oil than usual at the last oil change? What type?
2. What oil filter did you use?
3. Was there any repair to the oil pump this year?
4. Did you ever have a look at the oil strainer in the oil sump?

Edited 19 August, 20214 yr by RicardoM

Additional

I had in the past an oil pressure gauge with custom made base on lathe machine together with the factory oil pressure switch

my initial thought was to replace that switch and have that gauge in the dashboard for ''real time" informations but the mechanic said loud NO WAY!

He insisted that i case that something went wrong at high rpm on national road that red light could save my car and my life and i could step aside but the needle of the gauge no.

I heard his advice and done it additional with the factory switch.

 

Hi RicardoM

 

1 NO I used Shell Helix HX5 15/40

2  VW genuine part no 047 115 561f (purchased 4 off Ebay)

3  No

4  No

 

The light has not come on again it may have been a dirty connecter after all it has not been touched in 23 years if it comes on again then I will ask my mechanic to test the pressure with a manometer, the hose I took off I suspect was not a genuine one it was softened, the garage changed it I have now put a genuine one on now and will keep an eye on it the oil on the hose may be from changing the oil filters over time and some miner leaks from joints like I say 23 years for a all alloy engine heating up and cooling down and lets face it these engines are not exactly high tec they were never intended to last this long even with the best care that's why there are so few left on the road here in the UK any way.

As always thanks for your help.

Yeah some leakeage is absolutely fine

2 hours ago, mikefelicia said:

 

2  VW genuine part no 047 115 561f (purchased 4 off Ebay)

 

It's white colour and days VW genuine on the label?

The Ebay isn't the safest way for buying, an example you order a MANN 712/43 oil filter white colour and you get a black but not made in germany (maybe spain or brasil etc).

By personal experience it's wise to make an inspection to the tolerance of the oil filter after few months, sometimes needs one click more tightening.

11 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

sometimes needs one click more tightening

I make it goodentight

It is getting increasingly difficult to get genuine VW Skoda Felicia parts some times one has to go with the not so good parts.

The first time i thought was a coincidence but when i saw it for second time (different repair shop) i decide that every 3-4000 km one click tightening the oil filter is a precautionary measure for leaks.

 

@mikefelicia : No need to be a genuine VW, a MANN for example can do the job perfectly.

I buy sometimes not genuine Skoda parts but not "crucial" ones.

MAHLE is top notch better than oe stuff

11 hours ago, mikefelicia said:

I say 23 years for a all alloy engine heating up and cooling down and lets face it these engines are not exactly high tec they were never intended to last this long even with the best care that's why there are so few left on the road here in the UK any way.

Actually the Felicia 1.3 engines are quite reliable. Don't abuse them and use good oil & filter regularly and you'll get a 500,000 km life, maybe with one new set of rings.