My car was already modified like this when I bought it. I've learned that, this is a common modification for these cars. Mine had been installed a Renault 12 distributor along with its ignition coil. From what I learned they make it "fit" by machining some parts of the distributor but I don't know how it's exactly done. I've searched advantages or disadvantages of this modification and its very mixed.

 

I've read other users comments about this modification and why they preferred this mod. They say, electronic ignition was a "time bomb". Failure was sudden and would sure leave you on the road. It could go bad from any minute after installation. Even if it was new. Because, original parts were not available any more and aftermarket parts were unreliable. As long as you lubricate properly and keep a sand paper at hand, you would not face an immobilizing failure.

 

I've asked my mechanic about difference of my car's current contact breaker distributor and the original one. He sad this mod was **** AND he had one original distributor in his stash. Asked price was one fifth of a used 1.3 engine. (Just for the distributor alone.)

 

I wonder what do you think about this mod? Fuel economy? Performance?

Vacuum advance is not present in this distributor too.

 

 

 

Edited 1 September, 20214 yr by R_Blue
typo

28 minutes ago, R_Blue said:

Asked price was one fifth of a used 1.3 engine. (Just for the distributor alone.)

Big clue as to what's driving your mechanic's motivation there.

 

Also, there are at least 3 disabling failure modes in a Kettering arc distributor, and I've experienced all 3 of them!

1 hour ago, KenONeill said:

Also, there are at least 3 disabling failure modes in a Kettering arc distributor, and I've experienced all 3 of them!

Could I kindly ask more detail about those disabling failure modes please? Maybe I can be prepared.

 

"Kettering arc distributor" thanks for the official name.

1 hour ago, R_Blue said:

"Kettering arc distributor" thanks for the official name.

1. Points gap closes, leaning to loss of power, and eventually engine stopping.
2. Points spring breaks, meaning no spark.
3. Points spring remains intact, but points stick open.

You can also get loss of timing (but that also applies to electronic ignitions).

Thanks for the info. So I'll keep this part as a spare in the car.

 

I've already told you that kettering arc distributor was a common modification for Fav. based vehicles with the reasons mentioned above. After some research, I also learned it's a common modification to replace Renault 12's original kettering arc distributors with local Fiat Regata clones' magnetic trigger type distributors along with their electronic ignition system! So there may be no logic in installing a R12 distributor to Favorit other than creating a lucrative "fashion" for the mechanics.

 

I've learned that kettering arc distributor trigger has a special adjustment too. If I ever need to do that adjustment how can I make it? I can find info about almost anything Favorit related but R12 distributor on Favorit? Limbo.

 

I may return to original system in the future but that means all parts will be from Vika.

8 hours ago, R_Blue said:

If I ever need to do that adjustment how can I make it?

Well, there are 2 adjustments I know of on these distributors:-

1. Points gap. This is set by measurement, using feeler gauges. A typical value (no promises this is right for Favorit/Forman would be 40 thousandths of an inch. This may well require a different set of gauges to that used for the tappets.
2. Timing angle. This can be set statically by swinging the distributor body until the points close at the value in the manual. However, this is only good for getting the engine to run well enough to be able to get it hot. It's better to time the engine using a timing light which connects in the number 1 cylinder HT lead, or, if confident, by swinging the distributor body slowly until you achieve the fastest idle speed, then adjust the idle screw to slow it back down.

@R_Blue

Use a distributor and electronic ignition module from Felicia. All Felicia with carburetor have this setting.

On 09/09/2021 at 22:54, KenONeill said:

40 thousandths of an inch

Wow! That's great! Thanks for all the info. Next time when I have to make a points gap adjustment, I will start by setting this value.

 

On 10/09/2021 at 22:39, RicardoM said:

Use a distributor and electronic ignition module from Felicia. All Felicia with carburetor have this setting.

I'm thinking that too. Current R12 distributor is working but in the future I may return to electronic ignition.

So I have new spark plugs (Bosch FR6DC+) and removed the LPG mixer from top of the carburetor and installed the original air box mounting plate.

It's pretty much stock fuel system now. (Except the electric fuel pump) I think it was a good idea to re-adjust ignition timing and idle mixture. With @RicardoM 's advise, I have a vacuum meter now. I tried to make the adjustment just like in here:

The problem is, I find the highest point at dead end when turning clockwise. I can't turn the distributor anymore clockwise because any further movement to clockwise is blocked by the engine. You can see it in the picture.

 

In this position, engine is running fine in the low RPM range but when I try to put some load on the engine at high rpm (above ~2200) , for example, when accelerating uphill in 3rd or 4th gear, I hear a very faint clicking sound coming from deep. Hard to hear. Sometimes accompanied with slight back and forth shaking. It's hard to feel too.

I can't try to turn the distributor to clockwise so, is it possible to change distributor's neutral position? Are distributors only installed one way?

3 minutes ago, R_Blue said:

Are distributors only installed one way?

Yes, but it is possible to accidentally turn the rotor arm one tooth on the distributor when lowering the unit back onto the crankshaft. I've seen a professional (mate of mine) do this, and he couldn't get the engine in question (Ford Essex V6) to run at all until he corrected this.

It's not the original distributor you know. This one is for Renault 12. I think they fitted it this way with only LPG in mind. Because LPG requires higher advance in lower RPM range.

From what I see here, I have two options right now. Return to the original ignition system or find a way to raise the distributor.

 

I'll revert it back to LPG and see what happens. Thanks for your help.

On 27/10/2021 at 12:59, R_Blue said:

I'll revert it back to LPG and see what happens.

Current distributor position is OK for LPG.

 

When browsing for distributor and related parts, I've encountered this:

 

I've never seen or heard a mod like this. From the picture, I think the distributor is Fiat Tipo/Tempra type. With vacuum advance and electronic ignition. And the air filter with LPG entrance? Never saw something like that. What do you think about this modification?

I read somewhere that standard LPG mixers installed on carburetor top is engineered for backfire safety. What about this? Also any performance benefits?

Yes that was the old way of doing it back in the 70s you just dumped it in the carb, but that hot air intake though

Looks like a Green air intake but in this position there is no cool air coming to it.

I've found a way to change the distributor's neutral position!

 

The car started to run rough at idle after a 60Km fast travel. Ignition was the source of the problem but using sand paper on the points didn't solve issue completely. Rough idling was gone but I was unable to make the engine run completely smooth at idle. There was occasional misfires. I know part of this was because of distributor position. This happened before when some fuel and/or climate conditions are met.

 

I decided to study distributors in general, (Kettering arc distributors, kettering arc with transistor firing, electronic firing distributor systems etc.) to feel confident enough, before removing the distributor. In the pictures below you see R12 distributor retrofitted to Škoda's original distributor extension tube. There is a coupling at the rotor shaft end. It's secured with a round pin and a snap ring. I turned the rotor 180º from rotor coupling and rearranged the HT leads and it's working!

 

 

I can finally adjust distributor advance without restriction.

 

Does this setup have any adverse effect on the engine?

What if I turned the distributor 90º without changing the rotor position and install HT leads with their original position? Starting from top, clockwise: 1-3-4-2 ? This can't be that easy right???

Edited 13 November, 20214 yr by R_Blue