36 minutes ago, R_Blue said:

I think normal cable insulation is not weather-proof.

 

Yes but it's better than nothing.

I know that there are some insulation brands that sell heat shrinkable covers (we call them Macaroni here in Greece as a joke) with silicone inside as a glue so every time you heat it with a head-gun this seals everything.

The drawback is that you can not open it for example an inspection.

Here is an example:

 

 

Description: 3M MDT-A is available with a layer of specially designed hot melt adhesive. The glue is spread during the extrusion of the pipe, thus achieving a very smooth, continuous adhesive coating that ensures perfect tightness.

21 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

1 hour ago, R_Blue said:

I think normal cable insulation is not weather-proof.

 

Yes but it's better than nothing.

Sorry. I mean cable's own insulation. I totally agree with you. Anything is better than cable's own insulation.

21 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

we call them Macaroni here in Greece as a joke

I buy shrink tube here too but there is no glue in them. Looks like your macaroni comes with a sauce. 😋

Edited 9 October, 20214 yr by R_Blue

7 minutes ago, R_Blue said:

Looks like your macaroni comes with a sauce.

ahhaahahahahahahah

The difference between a simple heat shrink cover and one with glue inside is huge per meter.

0,40 euro the first but 6,20 euro the second. ⛔

8 months later.

When cruising in the city, all of a sudden, I started to hear a whining or howling noise coming from the engine. I thought engine was suffering a terrible fault. Then, I noticed the battery light was faintly lit. Also voltage value in the dashboard showed sub 12 at idle and 14.4 at 2000 rpm. That wasn't normal.

 

When I disconnected the alternator cable, whining sound has gone.

 

This is very unexpected because I did the renovation only 8 months ago.

I checked the voltage regulator and one of the carbon brushes was almost gone. I could see the copper in the middle. While the other one was almost as long as new.

I bought a new voltage regulator. Max. voltage limit returned 14 at dashboard but battery light was still faintly lit.

 

Alternator was still whining. Like this:

 

After some research, the problem could be a faulty diode in the array.

 

I bought a new array, soldered it and the problem is gone.

 

8 months ago I've replaced ball bearings, voltage regulator and the diode array.

 

Why would a carbon brush gets grinded down while the other one stays not affected?

Why would a diode array only lasts for eight months? 

 

Cheap (chinese made) materials maybe?

4 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Cheap (chinese made) materials maybe?

Likely so.

If this happens again, maybe I should take the hard way and rebuild the diode array itself with known parts.

Looks like they use 1N3660 and 1N3660R or 1N3494 and 1N3494R.

Check 00:50

 

12 hours ago, R_Blue said:

Likely so.

If this happens again, maybe I should take the hard way and rebuild the diode array itself with known parts.

 

Happened to me with an alternator regulator refurbish work, didn't last more than few days.

If you have the knowledge and the tools then Go for it!

On 19/06/2022 at 23:24, R_Blue said:

If this happens again, maybe I should take the hard way and rebuild the diode array itself with known parts.

Do you know how to diagnose an alternator and its internal components? Because I have the feeling you're guessing, not testing.