On 21/11/2021 at 00:10, nta16 said:

 

what does the original Driver's Handbook (Owner's Manual) that came with the car from Skoda when the car was brand new say the engine oil options are, if any, for your car, in Greece? 

And any oil specification, like with the modern Fabias (VW 5xxxxx)?

 

What is the hottest weather temperature you get where yo travel?

 

What is the hottest oil temperature/coolant temperature you have recorded in your car?

 

Do you have oil temperature and/or oil pressure gauge(s), if so what has been their highest and lowest readings?

 

 

The manual showed a chard with temperatures from +40 till -30 ' C and all the available SAE of that time, from 5W-50 till the 20W-50

API SG, VW 501 01 or VW 500 00

The mechanics suggest 10W-40 semi synthetic, no one told me for 5W-40 but i have tested it once and i didn't liked the sound.

 

+47 'C was the hottest but the summer +41 'C or +42 'C is very common here.

 

As for coolant, having problem i saw  two times 110 'C and one almost touched the limit but i manage to avoid the ''boom".

For a period i had this problem:

 

 

 

 

but i manage to solve it and now the temperature is fine.

 

I had an oil pressure gauge many years ago but i remove it because it's switch cause me some problems.

I don't remember now the indications of that time.

 

 

 

On 21/11/2021 at 00:10, nta16 said:

What you need is an oil suitable to your engine and your needs, or perhaps wants.  The oil needs to be of good quality base oil and a good quality oil additives package that suits your engine.

 

The latest week i returned to Synthetic 10W-40, the car starts much better and works better on light sport driving in mountain roads.

I have done the same test (parking, 5 floors underground etc) and the car after few seconds returned to 850 rpm while the TC-6 was showing the right instant fuel consumption.

I will never again change the oil type (Synthetic), maybe my Trusty loves it. 😘

On 27/11/2021 at 17:54, D.FYLAKTOS said:

The mechanics suggest 10W-40 semi synthetic, no one told me for 5W-40 but i have tested it once and i didn't liked the sound.

Fair enough stick with 10w40 but as I put before do not worry too much about the marketing titles of "semi-synthetic" or "synthetic".

 

As you like extra protection you should go for a full "synthetic" as even "synthetics" (that are not synthetics) cope with the heat better and for longer (as well as the cold better and for longer).

 

You could try the likes of Castrol MAGNATEC 10W-40 A3/B4 or the very well priced Millers Millers Oils EE Performance 10w-40, both cover VW 501 01 or VW 500 00.  

 

PDF below or here. - https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/millersoils/7708-EE-PERFORMANCE-10w40.pdf

 

You have learnt the importance of a good correct oil and know others are wrong when they put "an oil is just an oil they are all the same".

 

Regular and timely thorough (hot and long drain) oil and filter changes help to keep the engine and oil in good condition.

 

 

On 27/11/2021 at 17:54, D.FYLAKTOS said:

As for coolant, having problem i saw  two times 110 'C and one almost touched the limit but i manage to avoid the ''boom".

If your coolant (/heating) system has been thoroughly clean, the coolant changed in a timely fashion and all the systems components are working properly then even if the needle goes high the engine will not go boom.

 

It also depends on how accurate the gauge(s) are too, in the past the gauges were not marked with numbers to save the worry, in older cars the needles can go off the top of the range and still be fine and more modern cars do not even have a gauge.  You can smell when coolant vents off.

 

7708-EE-PERFORMANCE-10w40.pdf

Edited 28 November, 20214 yr by nta16
Removed photos and text no longer relevant

D.FYLAKTOS now you have found the benefit of good oil in the engine you might appreciate more my suggesting good oil in the gearbox transmission.

 

Often it's thought that any old oil will do in the gearbox and that it lasts for years (or decades for some) but the additives and oil do wear and quicker than many realise.  Felicia changes may be at 60,000 km.  Changing the oil can have a noticeable difference to the gear shifting and will generally help with protection.  If the existing oil is very old then possibly a cleaning flush with a cheap standard oil for say 80km might also help.

 

If your gearbox is very worn then a standard 75w-90 would help with the hot weather but if the wear isn't bad then a better 75w-90 would give improvements in use and protection.

 

A hot and long drain will get out more of the old oil and any contaminants in it meaning more new fresh oil goes in with less dilution from the old oil.  You can look at the condition of the old oil and any bits in it to help assess the possible condition of the gearbox.

 

Looking on this site I see the capacity is 2.4l which is a bit of a pain as it means if you do a good job of draining you will need three 1 litre bottles but at least this means you have some for top ups if required or to pour some warmed at the end of the draining as a mini flush.  You also need to allow for new sealing washer(s).

 

If your gearbox is in reasonably good condition then as you know Motul their Gear 300 75W-90 would be a very good priced top level oil, do no worry about the fact it has racing use that just means it is hard wearing, and it might quieten your gearbox a bit which you would like.  -https://azupim01.motul.com/media/motulData/DO/base/GEAR_300_75W-90_en_FR_motul_34200_20211021.pdf

 

There are others, but as one alternative Millers TRX Synth 75w90 . - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/TRX-Synth-75w90.pdf

 

15 hours ago, nta16 said:

You could try the likes of Castrol

 

I have try it, not so happy as i was with Amsoil synthetic.

 

15 hours ago, nta16 said:

Below is an earlier gauge fitted to earlier models of my car

 

My first 2 gauges were old style analogic, one for battery voltage and one for water temperature.

Later i installed others (once upon a time i had one for exhaust temperature).

 

Those high 'C temperatures were due to a problem of my fan, once with his relay and the second with his motor so i replaced him.

3 minutes ago, nta16 said:

you might appreciate more my suggesting good oil in the gearbox transmission.

 

I use Motul Gear Oil 75W-90 GL-4 (of course not the Competition or the LS) and i am very satisfied. 😉

35 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I have try it, not so happy as i was with Amsoil synthetic.

In that case you are using a good oil already.

 

 

35 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

My first 2 gauges were old style analogic, one for battery voltage and one for water temperature.

All but the last gauge are mechanical, as well as analogue, but if you are sorted that is fine, I was thinking you might be worrying about exact figures on gauges and within a too strict range of temperature but you seem very keen on figures and probably have accurate gauges, with much older cars you get used to some gauges being not so accurate and just go by the needles being where they normal are on the gauge rather than markings.

 

 

27 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I use Motul Gear Oil 75W-90 GL-4 (of course not the Competition or the LS) and i am very satisfied. 😉

Is that the Gear 300 anyway or am I missing something, but if you are satisfied then that is fine. - I have been preaching to the converted.  😄

 

Edited 28 November, 20214 yr by nta16
spelling

5 hours ago, nta16 said:

If your gearbox is in reasonably good condition then as you know Motul their Gear 300 75W-90 would be a very good priced top level oil, do no worry about the fact it has racing use that just means it is hard wearing, and it might quieten your gearbox a bit which you would like.

 

We are talking about the same gear oil

MOTUL GEAR 300 75W-90

API GL-4/GL-5

MIL-L-2105D

https://www.motul.com/fr/en/products/gear-300-75w90

 

On the motor i started to use Motul Synthetic, i am very happy with it (as a beginning) on highway-sport driving in mountain roads and i tested it till 5000 rpm

I am anxious because in cold starts early in the morning plus fuel consumption (outside city) did it fine but i have to wait till city driving plus starts from the parking at the basement (i don't want to see the 3:44 time as the Castrol did).

 

 

 

 

 

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

We are talking about the same gear oil

Yes but it's actually a GL-5, your GL-4 confused me, and I am easily confused.

 

The term synthetic gets confusing but however a good oil is marketed it remains a good oil.  The Motul Gear 300 75w-90 should be a top oil and should give top level performance.  With the Motul Gear 300 75w-90 you are using a gear oil far, far, above most cars on the road let alone a 21 year-old car if you have problems with it it is going to be a problem with the gearbox not the oil.  Most people would say you are wasting your money using such oil in such a vehicle and for road use, not me as I use "classic car" modern  race oils (Millers) in my engine, gearbox and rear axle as I want the extra protection even though my car is only for road use.

 

Like all other oil blenders Motul have a range of different oils so one Motul engine, or other, oil is different to another so it depends which Motul engine oil you used but generally you might find you can hear more engine with one engine oil than another but that does not mean the engine is not better protected, this depends on the oil used but  if you prefer an Amsoil engine oil that is fine as they also make good oils and well above the vast majority of any of the cars around you unless you are at a racetrack or expensive car enthusiast meeting.

 

Using such oils would help when you got your overheating problem as they offer better protection and for longer.

 

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Yes but it's actually a GL-5, your GL-4 confused me, and I am easily confused.

Motul specs say that can cove GL-4 too, i change the factory with this and i made another change recently.

Some other brands with gear oil that cover both API GL-4 and GL-5 are the

Castrol Transmax Universal GL4/GL5 75W-90

Liqui Moly GL4/GL5 75W-90

DIVINOL Synthogear Extra LS 75W-90

 

 

GL-4 and GL-5 are just oil classifications.  GL-5 came after GL-4, some GL-5 oils are not recommended for use in some or all applications that specify a GL-4.

 

Some out of date and misinformed people still believe ALL GL-5 gear oil can not be used in ALL GL-4 specified gearboxes, they usually say GL-5 will "damage  the yellow metals" which is why some GL-5 gear oils will specifically state something like 'will not damage yellow metals'.

 

Most good quality modern GL-5 gear oils are fine to use with GL-4 specified gearboxes but the manufacturer might not state this as they can not test their oil in all gearboxes going back 60 years or more especially when the gearbox might be that age and have faults in them that might wrongly blame the new oil instead of the old box, it is not worth it for the minuscule sales potential.  Plus the oil blenders can produce a cheaper grade oil and charge a lot more for it by marketing it as a 'classic' vehicle oil.

 

Amsoil and Redline would do suitable high level gear oil too, and of course what I use in my gearbox and rear axle, a British/English oil blender company, to keep things local, Millers CRX 75w90 NT+. - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/crx-75w90-nt-2/

 

Edited 28 November, 20214 yr by nta16

11 hours ago, nta16 said:

they usually say GL-5 will "damage  the yellow metals" which is why some GL-5 gear oils will specifically state something like 'will not damage yellow metals'.

 

From what I've read, this is true - GL5 was developed for hypoid gears, typically used in differential. It typically had higher contents of sulphur/phosphor additives, which cause corrosion of bronze syncro rings. However, there are cars that have transaxles with hypoid gears (typically 4WD, like Audi) so oils with GL5 specification that could be used in gearbox were desirable, so they probably developed new additives to get oils that are capable to work in both GL4 and GL5 specs.

5 hours ago, Papez said:

so they probably developed new additives to get oils that are capable to work in both GL4 and GL5 specs.

And formula / blend / composition / make-up or whatever the correct term or terminology is.

 

This is not a recent thing it goes back years, oils are developed for car companies hence the various car manufacturers specifications I suspect more recently to sort  design and build flaws or mistakes or discoveries in real world use by the purchases.  Going back decades manufactures have been changing their minds as to which and what sort of oils are recommended or "must" go into various models of vehicles they made.

 

I could give you an example of a Ford oil (Ford do not make oils) and its specification that Ford enthusiasts and specialist gearbox rebuilders insist must be used but the specification over the decades has been amalgamated in with other old Ford oil specifications meaning all those oils are now considered interchangeable. 

 

This from the Technical data Sheet for the Motul Gear 300 75w-90 (GL-5) that I previously linked to - "Suitable for any type of seal and yellow material used in gearboxes design." - https://azupim01.motul.com/media/motulData/DO/base/GEAR_300_75W-90_en_FR_motul_34200_20211021.pdf

 

Also Millers replied to my emails twice to say the Millers CRX 75w90 NT(+) would not damage 'the yellow metals' in my Ford gearbox, I say twice because some of the posters on another (classic car) site just could not or would not believe this which is why I often put about oil beliefs.

 

Edited 29 November, 20214 yr by nta16
spelling

I am firmly against using any kind of gl5 oil even if the package says its compatible in the felly gearbox, this car has really old topology and its really picky on what goes in there I use valvoline 75w-80 gl4. 

4 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I am firmly against using any kind of gl5 oil even if the package says its compatible in the felly gearbox, this car has really old topology and its really picky on what goes in there I use valvoline 75w-80 gl4. 

That is fine, that is your oil belief.

 

The box I have goes back to the 1960s I doubt, but don't know, if the Felica box goes back that far or further.

 

Update:

 

After i finished a trip of 444 Km (few cold starts and everything was fine) i parked the car on the road and Saturday morning i started the car, the idle was good as the previous days and i said to myself ''Ok we solve the problem".

Monday morning things were not so good, the idle was stayed a little bit longer at 1100 rpm and later when i finished my shift (the car was parked 5 floors below at the basement) i turned the key and i saw the same sad phenomenon.

By instinct i pop-up the hood and i was surprised !

 

 

 

From the side of the filter box the plastic adaptor was missing which means that more air than it should be was coming inside and this affecter the idle badly.

 

 

 

 

Maybe from vibrations was removed from his position, touched the belt which throw him away and got stuck front of the pulley, thank God he didn't dropped inside otherwise i would have a major problem.

 

 

 

 

Here it is from another angle, as you can see was touching the pulley a little bit.

Tonight i will have another cold start test just to calm myself.

 

 

 

 

31 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

From the side of the filter box the plastic adaptor was missing which means that more air than it should be was coming inside and this affecter the idle badly.

 

 

It's warm air intake, which should be connected to hose going to exhause heat shield. It seems that the hose got shredded by belt..

Well done on finding this, it shows you know your car well by your concern with idle speeds.

 

 

1 hour ago, Papez said:

It's warm air intake

Is this some sort of manually operated diverter, by hand or cable?

 

2 hours ago, Papez said:

 

It's warm air intake, which should be connected to hose going to exhause heat shield. It seems that the hose got shredded by belt..

 

This shield has been removed when i change my manifold exhaust, there is no hose for 20 years now.

That adaptor has been sealed so not hot air from the engine bay was coming inside the filter box.

 

15 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Is this some sort of manually operated diverter, by hand or cable?

 

There was a clapet from the factory, on cold starts he brought hot air from the manifold excaust to filter for better starting (emmisions).

16 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

There was a clapet from the factory, on cold starts he brought hot air from the manifold excaust to filter for better starting (emmisions).

Yes, on old cars you just manually turned the air filter housing inlet tube through a ninety degree turn from horizontal to pointing to exhaust.

 

But if you sealed the adapter the what has got caught, did it have springs and you left the springs on and they have come away with the seal/valve/cover, I'm lost, perhaps a photo of the offending items.

 

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Yes, on old cars you just manually turned the air filter housing inlet tube through a ninety degree turn from horizontal to pointing to exhaust.

 

But if you sealed the adapter the what has got caught, did it have springs and you left the springs on and they have come away with the seal/valve/cover, I'm lost, perhaps a photo of the offending items.

 

 

This was introduced on later models of Estelle, thermostatic flap that automatically kept intake air temp around 30° - in Felicia, there's flap inside of the airbox that closes once engine heats up, I'm not sure what exact temperature is, but I guess there's some hysteresis, as the flap stays closed for quite some time after the engine is turned off.

Part that has fallen is just adapter that should be connected to warm air intake hose. Cold air hose is hidden beneath the airbox and goes through front wall.

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

I'm lost, perhaps a photo of the offending items.

 

 

 

On the left is the air intake from the bumper (fresh air)

On the right is the adaptor for the hose which brings hot air from the exhaust manifold to help the car on winter cold startings.

In the middle is the cover of the mechanism of the clapet that i mention before.

Since i changed the factory filter and the whole exhaust (plus i wrapped with titanium heat tape) the clapet was gone, it's 20 years now.

 

In some cases wrapping exhaust manifold can put too much heat the the head.

 

1 hour ago, Papez said:

This was introduced on later models of Estelle, thermostatic flap that automatically kept intake air temp around 30°

Far too modern for me to know about.  😄

 

Edited 30 November, 20214 yr by nta16

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

In some cases wrapping exhaust manifold can put too much heat the the head.

 

 

Yes, depends from the quality of the material, with cheap low quality steel will have a problem.

On the other hand reduces the temperature inside the engine bay and the floor unders the driver's feet especially those hot summer days here in Greece.

Edited 30 November, 20214 yr by D.FYLAKTOS

My Car Has a Rough Idle When Cold

DAN FERRELL

 

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/My-Car-Has-a-Rough-Idle-When-Cold

 

Very interesting article with lot of informations.