Dear all,

 

Good to see you again. I'm coming from a 2009-2010 Octavia II 1.6 TDI Greenline, turbocharged, which I've had for 4 years.

Just got my 2nd car: a 2011 Fabia II Greenline 1.2 TDI.

 

When I tested this car upon purchase, I didn't know much about it, like I didn't know it has stop-start, and I didn't know it had 3 cylinders, and I wasn't sure it was turbocharged.

But it drove and I was in urgent need and I've been looking for a car for 10 weeks so I ended up buying it and who knows, I may have overpaid.

 

The point now is. I'm test running the car and there is one thing I noticed which I didn't like (besides the noise of course, damn that engine is noisy).

Sometimes when I get near a stop, like at a traffic light queue, or when I'm emerging out of a junction, the engine seems to refuse to pull for a short period. I might even end up stranded in the middle of a lane until it pulls through, and that is mostly in low gears due to the situation in which I noticed this.

 

It's been bugging me all day, but it kind of dawned on me tonight. Could my Turbo be shot?

I confimed via google that the car is indeed turbocharged. I don't hear the turbo sound that the Octavia makes but they are two different cars after all.

 

How do I confirm if my turbo is working? And if it's not that, can you think of anything else that does it?
 

Does your car do what mine does?

And finally, there are a few clicks and whirrs I want to ask about. If I upload videos to YouTUbe, can you help me recognise what they are?

This video found on youtube shows exactly what I get on my car if I open the fuel cap with the engine running. Same tapping noise, and smoke (or is that vapour?) 

Funny enough I've never done that to another car but I did when viewing this one, but it's quiet when capped so I assumed it was alright.


This clicking noise comes when I switch the thing off. Always 4 double clicks, and 1 faster double click. What is that noise?

 

 

And this "whining" noise (around 10 seconds into the video) , quite audible to me, and which I haven't heard in any other car I've tried, comes on seconds after starting the engine, and stays steady even during driving, until I switch off.

There are no codes from the OBDII.

1. If there is anything I should look out for or test to troubleshoot my turbo, or my "underboost?" situation, please let me know and I'll take a video.
2. The only other problem I've noticed in the car is the blower fan only works on 4 so probably needs a new fan resistor.

 

3. And the battery light on the dashbord is always on but very faint, like it's not really on but I can see it.

4. Start-Stop is always "not possible", but I did some reading and people are saying the battery can pull this system off for about 3 years then a new battery is due. Again, a newbie here to both Fabia and the Start Stop.

5. Last problem I just remembered: a bit of a squeak from rear wheels I can hear at creeping speeds, without applying brakes. A binding caliper, or is there energy-harvesting technology on the wheels that could do that?

 

 

 

Please help me find any trouble in the car. I need diagnosis tips


Ready. Set. Go.

Edited 4 December, 20214 yr by KingRoach

 Torque App on a tablet or phone, bluetooth OBD interface and look at boost for real time boost values. This shows zero in vacuum gauge but to being on tick-over but anything up to 17 when accelerating, This is a 1.4 TDI Greenline so max boost value may differ on a 1.2. As you will see voltage can be added as a gauge to answer item 3. 

Edited 4 December, 20214 yr by KeithCheetham
Voltage info

21 minutes ago, KeithCheetham said:

 Torque App on a tablet or phone, bluetooth OBD interface and look at boost for real time boost values. This shows zero in vacuum gauge but to being on tick-over but anything up to 17 when accelerating, This is a 1.4 TDI Greenline so max boost value may differ on a 1.2. As you will see voltage can be added as a gauge to answer item 3. 

Thanks. I didn't think of real time values! Will any cheapo Bluetooth OBD reader read that, or is there a specific one ? 

Mine is a cheap one, but have actually purchased another cheap one - 2 cars in household - that did not work.

@KingRoach

Was your car in for the Fix?  (maybe ruined unfortunately with the new engine management!)  1.2TDI's were part of it.

Or does it show as not done.   Maybe not one that was part of the Voluntary recall / VW Group experimenting.

http://skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions

 

 

49 minutes ago, roottoot said:

@KingRoach

Was your car in for the Fix?  (maybe ruined unfortunately with the new engine management!)  1.2TDI's were part of it.

Or does it show as not done.   Maybe not one that was part of the Voluntary recall / VW Group experimenting.

http://skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions

 

 

Just clicked the link, clicked check my car, entered VIN and it says "this car is not affected."

I also just tried revving the car on stand still. Didn't go beyond 3K RPM, but it does go over 3K RPM when it's moving.

I tried on the Octavia, and it won't go over 2.5K on standstill, so I guess this is just a safety limiter, not a turbo fault indicator.

 

Does the Turbo in the 1.2 TDI sound the same as in the Octavia 1.6 TDI? Because I can clearly hear it kick in in the Octy, but can't hear turbo sounds in the Fabia.

 

I reiterate, it seems to drive fine except when I slow down to a near stop and try to pick up again, especially when emerging from junctions, the engine seems to go "nope. Let me think. Yeah maybe. Okay I think I'll go. Hold on a sec, there." It takes so long it has potential to get me in an accident when emerging.

@KingRoach

You could check with Skoda UK Customer Services if it shows not affected because it has already been carried out.

They messed about starting the campaign then had to stop and then sort their act out as it messed up cars. 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/471240-euro-5-12-tdi-emissions-fix-have-you-had-it-done

 

1 hour ago, roottoot said:

@KingRoach

You could check with Skoda UK Customer Services if it shows not affected because it has already been carried out.

They messed about starting the campaign then had to stop and then sort their act out as it messed up cars. 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/471240-euro-5-12-tdi-emissions-fix-have-you-had-it-done

 

What difference does it make knowing now?

 

Or more like... if it's been done, what should I do, and if not  what should I do? Have you heard of them redoing it if that was the issue?

It could be rolled back and remapped if it was the cause of the way it is performing, but means you paying to have that done.

1 hour ago, roottoot said:

It could be rolled back and remapped if it was the cause of the way it is performing, but means you paying to have that done.

Interesting. Is there any knowlege base about the kind of problems that people were having after the "fix" on this car? I checked your link and could only see people complaining about the politics and economics of the discourse of "saving the planet", and I'm not looking to engage that at the moment.

Mini update: I found all tyres at 2.0 bar pressure. Pumped them up to 2.5 bar, all four, which improved the way the car rolls a bit (duh).

Tried to roll the car with my hand to test for caliper binding. It rolled. I was able to turn the rear wheel with one hand. Doesn't roll far obvs. So that rules out caliper binding, I guess?

Got a Wynn's Diesel EGR cleaning solution from Halfords and sprayed that in, and changed the engine air filter to a new one while I was at it. New filter is white. Old filer was dark grey, is that normal for 1 year of use?

I was plannign to change the oil and oil filter but didn't get to it. Maybe next weekend. Will see how it fares until then.

Got a new fuel filter in the kit as well, I'll have to google how.

 

 

Any idea what the sounds I've posted above are? 3 YouTube videos in the 1st comment above.

15 minutes ago, KingRoach said:

Old filer was dark grey, is that normal for 1 year of use?

 

It's recommended that air filters should be changed annually, more if you do a lot of mileage.

 If you get the bluetooth OBD2 to use with Torque, may be worth checking if VAGDPF app is compatible with you engine code. Unsure if a blocked/partially blocked DPF would cause issues as described but again it is a free or cheap tool.

2 hours ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

 

It's recommended that air filters should be changed annually, more if you do a lot of mileage.

You don't say! That doesn't indicate you've read the post or attempted to answer the question. Thanks for passing by though.

 

1 hour ago, KeithCheetham said:

 If you get the bluetooth OBD2 to use with Torque, may be worth checking if VAGDPF app is compatible with you engine code. Unsure if a blocked/partially blocked DPF would cause issues as described but again it is a free or cheap tool.

It is now only a question of which Bluetooth OBD2 adapter to go for. There's the £99 one, and there's the £5 one. Will need to know if the the cheap ones are very limited in what data they can read, and also if the expensive one is just expnsive because of marketing without practical benefits. More to look up. Sigh.

11 minutes ago, KingRoach said:

You don't say! That doesn't indicate you've read the post or attempted to answer the question. Thanks for passing by though.

 

I was merely trying to provide assistance based on personal experience. 

20 hours ago, KingRoach said:

It is now only a question of which Bluetooth OBD2 adapter to go for. There's the £99 one, and there's the £5 one. Will need to know if the the cheap ones are very limited in what data they can read, and also if the expensive one is just expnsive because of marketing without practical benefits. More to look up. Sigh.

I am using one that cost just a few pounds, bought off Ebay as while they can be bought cheaper from China savings are minimal. The limitation will be the software once it connects. The one below is as purchased but many sellers offer the same one. The more expensive ones are generally specifically required for certain software - OBDEleven etc - but should still work with Torque and VAGDPF, although would not be good if you bought an expensive one and found to not be compatible with my recommended software.

ELM327 Mini OBD2 Code Scanner Bluetooth V1.5 Diagnostic Interface For Android | eBay

@AnnoyingPentium

No idea were you get the recommendations on changing Air Filters every year.

Certainly check, pre and post winter or when ever, check if wading wet roads etc.

 

Skoda used to have them at each 2nd Major Service so 4 years or 40,000 miles.

They might not even get checked before then.

They charged the Major Service Fixed Price even when not changing them. £269 then it went to £289.  Pure Rip off charging for stuff not provided.

 

It is a location location location thing.  Citing in Edinburgh rush hour behind busses 5 days a week can have an Air & Pollen filter filthy.

Driving in the country or parking up can have Air Filters or pollen filters clogging up.

 

Check them, blow with an airline or vacuum them if not too dirty.  Replace @ £16 or less if you want to. 

Not paying out £45 to a Main Dealer.

 

This is what they have now.

Air Filter @ year 6 / 60,000 miles.   (Pollen filter ever 2)

Edited 6 December, 20214 yr by roottoot

3 minutes ago, roottoot said:

@AnnoyingPentium

No idea were you get the recommendations on changing Air Filters every year.

Certainly check, pre and post winter or when ever, check if wading wet roads etc.

 

Skoda used to have then at each 2nd Major Service so 4 years or 40,000 miles.

They might not even get checked before then.

 

It is a location location location thing.  Citing in Edinburgh rush hour behind busses 5 days a week can have an Air & Pollen filter filthy.

Driving in the country or parking up can have Air Filters or pollen filters clogging up.

 

Check them, blow with an airline or vacuum them if not too dirty.  Replace @ £16 or less if you want to. 

Not paying out £45 to a Main Dealer.

 

This is what they have now.

 

Sorry George, just my dittery-ness then, I didn't know it had changed either. I left my filter 18 months (was completed in October by previous owner) and the engine was choked to hell. £4.65 later and my car was running good. So was just recommending based on personal experience.

23 hours ago, KingRoach said:

On 05/12/2021 at 20:15, AnnoyingPentium said:

 

It's recommended that air filters should be changed annually, more if you do a lot of mileage.

You don't say! That doesn't indicate you've read the post or attempted to answer the question. Thanks for passing by though.

 

YOU asked - 

On 05/12/2021 at 20:00, KingRoach said:

New filter is white. Old filer was dark grey, is that normal for 1 year of use?

 

You are probably stressed and upset with yourself but there's no need to be that rude, it seems to be catching here, unfortunately it often seems those dishing it out can't take when inbound.  So take a breath, and ignore this post if you want, or even bigger breath before replying, no need to thank me though.  😁

 

I was going to answer but I see roottoot has given an explanation to this already and other help, KeithCheetham has given you great help - you asked for help and it has been given.

 

Unfortunately this is the only help I'm able to give you on this subject at the moment, good luck on sorting it.

 

Edited 6 December, 20214 yr by nta16

Question re: air filter was not about what frequency is normal. It was about whether it is normal for it look dark grey when changed frequently. The only reason why I'm asking is because it may help indicate how it's been driven by previous owner. I'm simply collecting info right now. if it's normal, then I will eliminate that factor. If it's not, then maybe the car was not maintained that well and it may indicate further problems down the air intake.

 

More observations: voltage at battery terminals with car off: just over 12v.

Voltage at battery terminals with car on: 14.8v. Alternator must be ok. Maybe Stop-Start isn't Possible is because of battery voltage then? As I can't find another reason for it not to work. I've gone through the list of conditions for it not to work.

 

With new air filter and proper tyre pressure: the car is rolling alright on an easy straight road at low speeds (20-40mph max). There is "some" marginal improvement but no chance to test higher speeds yet.

I'm still only seeing average MPG on the screen not much over 40mpg at best, and often in the 30's. When people talk about their MPG here, do they mean real world measure, or on-screen readings?

It took 2 hours of easy driving in town to see 50mpg on that LCD.

On the other hand, from a full tank, I've just seen the first fuel-gauge dash go out at 79.5 miles today. I'm guessing if fuel consumption is OK, I should expect around 600-650 miles from that tank.

 

Also note, I'm observing MPG as it may indicate a problem or may relate to the problem I'm having above, or not,  so it helps to know what to expect.

I would suggest that you try to identify a manufacturer of the dark coloured filter and review any for sale on the internet. While it sounds unusual to not be white, there may be something in the material used to give the colour. For consumption, fill tank to the top - I am that bloke who keeps filling the last bit waiting until it is visible in the fill neck, not using the pump stop - reset trip and then re-fill after a few hundred miles. Note down trip mileage since last fill up, divided that number by litres use and multiply by 4.545 which will give you miles per gallon. sounds long winded but takes all car sensors out of the check.

2 hours ago, KeithCheetham said:

I would suggest that you try to identify a manufacturer of the dark coloured filter and review any for sale on the internet.

Beat me to it.

 

Also the frequency depends on the owner, and as said the environment the car is used and kept in.

 

I would use at least two consecutive tankfuls of "cleaner" diesel such as Shell V-Power for its cleaning additives.  For air and fuel, as with computer GIGO garbage in garbage out, if the air going in the engine isn't clean or is  restricted it's not going to help the engine or what comes out, same for fuel, and engine oil and filter.  Especially for diesels it's SISO, ****e in ****e out.  If the air filter was dirty then what's before and after it could also be dirty, did you just replace the air filter or that and clean other stuff like trunking, hoses, pipes, sensors, etc.. 

 

 

9 hours ago, KingRoach said:

Voltage at battery terminals with car on: 14.8v. Alternator must be ok.

Not necessarily depends when the reading was taken, that shows alternator working hard depends if it should have been working hard at that point or not.

 

Check the battery after the car has rested for a good while, put the headlights on for about 10 seconds, switch them off and see what readings you get from the battery on a machine that you have tested or another vehicle to give you an idea of the machine's accuracy.

 

Check the battery post clamps are both tight, check the main earth lead(s) connections are clean and secure, no crud or rust to inhibit them.

 

I know this figure very well as I have to keep telling my wife it - 4.546 - it's a zero after that.

Edited 8 December, 20214 yr by nta16
spelling

Thanks guys. Older filter was a german brand. New one is generic. I did not change anything else or clean up anything else. Upon visual inspection I cannot find any rips or disconnections and it generally looks to be in good condition. The engine doesn't seem to have been jetwashed, but is relatively clean. I'd have thought this was simply a well maintained car.

 

BUT.

 

Surprise I got today. I got the V5C document to my address today, and it clealy says the car was a salvage category at some point due to "structural damage" but has been declared fit for repair following a technical evaluation.

 

I feel... different things right now. The seller basically lied. And I failed to see this detail (was viewing the damn thing at night because that was the only opportunity), and I did not get an HPI report because the opportunity was too damn narrow. But still, the seller had lied. Did I over pay? Maybe more so now that I found this out.

 

But I cannot for the life of me figure out what could have been wrong with it. It does not seem to have any structural impact. I'll search for the best report to buy to see if I can get any info on this.

Any tips on the best way for finding out just exactly why it was recorded as salvage? I want the most detail I can get.

 

=====

 

Yesterday night I went for a short stroll at 2am, did a few motorway miles (one junction) reached 55mpg and then coasted my way back home to 60mpg. That was night road and literally no stops, all traffic lights opened to me.

Today I stopped at the same diesel pump to fill up, 103 miles from a full tank, and I topped up back to full. What do you think I did? 4L/100miles? 5? 6?  10 f***ing litres! The reading on the screen is not inaccurate.

I'm now starting to worry. I'd been trying to find a clean car for just over 11 weeks due to job, with no opportunity to even view any, and now that I finally thought I got what I was looking for, turns out there might be more hidden for me than I bargained for.

 

Then again, this whole saga might simply be a game of expectations. Maybe I'm wrong about all this and this car just sucks by design. Unlike the Octavia II Greenline which I cannot fault. I still can't accept no pull at junctions, that's plain dangerous.

Is there anyone with the same car in Nottingham who would allow me to compare?