Hello. I have a problem with my skoda rapid 1.2 tsi 65kw 2015. At the start of the car I have a flickering like a electrical tension fluctation. Then I hear like a click next to the steering wheel and then the fluctuation happens.  I change a dime în the alternator but still does it. This happens even when I stay în trafic and release the clutch and accelerate.  Can someone help me ? Its making me go crazy I dont know how to solve it. Ty!

41 minutes ago, Adrianul said:

Can someone help me ?

We are mostly amateurs who're here when we're here, and when we're somewhere else we're not here. A bit more patience than expecting an answer inside 10 minutes is needed!

 

Meanwhile, back at your car - This sort of problem is most likely a weak battery (battery is 6 years old unless you're replaced it and not told us), a bad electrical connection to one of alternator, battery or PAS motor, or a CANBus problem with the headlights. It really needs physical access to the car to take this further.

+1 on old battery issues. Especially if the car is only being driven shorter runs or using the stop/start system (if equipped) a lot. A poor connection between an earth lead and wherever it connects to may also be a potential problem here, as was the case on my Fabia more than once. Just take the connector off, and if it looks dirty then take a nail file to it and clean it up a bit.

Ty for your answer. There îs no rush în getting a answer. But im going crazy with this problem.  The battery its new , It has 1 year 52ah 470A. When I changed the reley from the alternator I told the mechanic to check it . He told me its ok everything.  I changed the the reley cos some mechanics from skoda official reparir told me that from it its the problem. But no change în this problem. So that s why I ask here maybe someone had this problem and solve it

8 minutes ago, Adrianul said:

The battery its new , It has 1 year 52ah 470A.

OK, has the new battery been coded to your car? BTW this is my 6th possible answer, and none of them have involved changing a relay.

Forgot to mention that when the windows are up and I push the button to close them even if they are the the flickering happens. Same when I start the backwindow heating or the seat heating. Every consumer make this happen when I comute to start it

Just now, KenONeill said:

OK, has the new battery been coded to your car? BTW this is my 6th possible answer, and none of them have involved changing a relay.

I dont think so.  My unele changed it so when o bought it from him it was already changed.  What this coding means to the batery I havent heard of it. Ty . Maybe this could be a problem 

1 hour ago, Adrianul said:

I dont think so.  My unele changed it so when o bought it from him it was already changed.  What this coding means to the batery I havent heard of it. Ty . Maybe this could be a problem 

You'll need a maintenance computer, but from what you've just said about the windows it's either the (lack of) battery coding or a dirty/loose contact. Battery coding is less work.

40 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

You'll need a maintenance computer, but from what you've just said about the windows it's either the (lack of) battery coding or a dirty/loose contact. Battery coding is less work.

I will buy a new battery and then code it. But i dont know how. Its there a code or something I will ask my mechanic about it. 

1 hour ago, Adrianul said:

I will buy a new battery and then code it. But i dont know how. Its there a code or something I will ask my mechanic about it. 

One more question. If the car dosen't have start stop option the battery still needs coding?

Coding the battery will only affect how the battery gets charged - it will not have any effect on what seems to be transient interruptions in supply. I ,too, would have checked / replaced any light supply relays (cheap and easy to do) but now I would be following Annoying Pentium's suggestion of tracking down earthing points (plenty on a modern car) or earth straps.  The bulb connections could be quickly checked, and the relevant fuses taken out, inspected or replaced, and firmly reseated. Save your money - a year old battery is unlikely to be the issue here. Start with the main earth strap from the battery to the body and then look at any earth points near the headlights.

2 hours ago, inspectorman said:

Coding the battery will only affect how the battery gets charged - it will not have any effect on what seems to be transient interruptions in supply. I ,too, would have checked / replaced any light supply relays (cheap and easy to do) but now I would be following Annoying Pentium's suggestion of tracking down earthing points (plenty on a modern car) or earth straps.  The bulb connections could be quickly checked, and the relevant fuses taken out, inspected or replaced, and firmly reseated. Save your money - a year old battery is unlikely to be the issue here. Start with the main earth strap from the battery to the body and then look at any earth points near the headlights.

Thank you. I will do all the things you guys told me and get back with an update. I think after the new year cos no mecanic will work now without much more costs.  Hope I m gonna find the problem. Im so sad with it. I just want to set the car on fire and watch it burn

Update!  I changed the battery I inspected all the earthing cables and everything else and after putting the car on the tester I ve got 00447 error as seen in the attached photos. I said ok the error must be a relay and reading forums and other pages the error is from 447 relay . Good to be done . After searching the entire car for the position of this relay while I was with the mecanic I told him lets test the car again. But with vcds original from vw so I got no error with this one. After getting mad I started to open all light and every consume and told the mecanic to listen to the sound that happens when i start a consumer its like "clang " like a relay wich triggers. The sound its on the left of the car next to all the relays în the bottom of the wheel from what I ve heard there its the confort computer or the eletric one . Wich has the relay with the problem on it. Next I need to go and see an electrician to change the relay or all the console..