Just now, xman said:

If you have OBD eleven, then use to check for misfires, its a fine tool.

do you hav the link for the full vacuum pipe please? il order it then get my garage to fit it for me.

 

i tried using the obdeleven but was having issues with internet.

Part number is written along the hard plastic sections.

1 minute ago, Wino said:

Part number is written along the hard plastic sections.

thank you, will have a look later  

My independent bought it through TPS, said only genuine ones available, no aftermarket. Said I was lucky as many VAG vacuum pipes are discontinued and unobtainable siting the VW golf 6 iirc as an example.

 

This is the part in question

Mine is   6Q2 612 041 AL

 

 

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6q2612041al-vacuum-pipe-36781.html

Edited 27 January, 20224 yr by xman

1 minute ago, xman said:

My independent bought it through TPS, said only genuine ones available, no aftermarket. Said I was lucky as many VAG vacuum pipes are discontinued and unobtainable siting the VW golf 6 iirc as an example.

 

This is the part in question

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6q2612041al-vacuum-pipe-36781.html

thank you

 

will check the model number then order it  

 

is it straight forward to fit them? i am thinking about doing it my self.

4 minutes ago, froggy8 said:

Is it straight forward to fit them? i am thinking about doing it my self.

 

I observed him do it, carefully and steadily pull using both hands from the grommet in the servo, at the same time pushing the grommet back with both thumbs to avoid pulling that out. Then pull the other end off (under the inlet manifold at gearbox end) steadily. He used a smidgen of grease on the new ends to aid pushing the ends in/on, again steadily to avoid pushing the grommet in. Literally 2 minutes.

2 minutes ago, xman said:

 

I observed him do it, carefully and steadily pull using both hands from the grommet in the servo, at the same time pushing the grommet back with both thumbs to avoid pulling that out. Then pull the other end off (under the inlet manifold at gearbox end) steadily. He used a smidgen of grease on the new ends to aid pushing the ends in/on, again steadily to avoid pushing the grommet in. Literally 2 minutes.

that does sound very easy to do, even for me!

just found this:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164140351659?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item26378700ab:g:4moAAOSwd1JefaNF&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACsPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSLY2M1Gjmuwt9c03vWNfiRpcv1lkSR7wddqKeJLBilCXtwkVbwftMaItYrf7Y%2Bstcpp%2FWN8udxBfwbuyRPSAcx0KRYYXxj9ja2LR3wrX0r0yRo24ALMpPk9fCC748jQjoFfuQLMkr8Ep8Q0CBpt9t%2Bu%2FYpOd1%2FY4mNMgZHQBOmaUGF6W36UzwfrV57nqGv4gc1%2BohdXjiJHhVBiD97EENew7iCTRkxTL9q%2FKlW08LnerDRk54rMSUVRu%2BZaIWZD5vKebQknOf2w64huqmYqQav0y8%2BDJOKcXnw0m5LVhaLylDObVdGOOZTHxsZe3%2FWq0Pvp2PdkmVkLunKfwAB4bMtXC0Rc388Gms9L3Q2I9YiJCtHbXuZ3c7gvD%2Bg7gzi8SKl7kFJSvjH9WT%2FYMKhVow156pT8vc5OhcVCFM1ldvlLHJthyyHRUZrY3u4agEHRFWf20mcYGMdby8bp5%2BiK%2FDWouFsAu3Uz9fPhz%2Fh%2FULONNMfAbK8A8Oib8UBpye8BJCqrbp2otk5d96rfsVW6UtZYu0VvzRca6IB1RLz%2BmZGp%2B4xk52yIgVvoj5f9vAKr2kF2hlALLuwt%2Br4k76bJg35yVg0lD0TsUNhvHsMo7rjme3cxAmBKmASuNpNSu7ZY7w8QwGWZGfP2nc%2B6ND3uXdoQ%2BrpQYyIlYUat%2FttJnfFgaIKkrsCsraD6w8VuhPZo%2FJffcYVV%2BhVTrR9uUrA5KvKjXtK%2FcbQq%2F1IL%2Bcah7fQMOfngOrMyW%2BChGp16WCCqSlDXcLH2uYqiHPuLEWDWK3Ue3mmeK7xb0AxgDlJn7zsM10U4FeB3YdqMVeKOJFWbXo4Q5DsVvOsNPDo8AJoWcHTeL6l2lxbE16KC2xFLdoIm4%3D|clp%3A2334524|tkp%3ABFBMrKOy19Nf

 

that is very cheap!

Yeah, unbranded stuff generally is very cheap, unfortunately it's usually no good either.

 

Keep looking.

@froggy8

 

You've shown us the white deposited plugs AND admitted your brake vacuum pipe is split,  I'm sure the problem are air leaks.into the inlet manifold randomly weakening your mixture, running excessively lean and probably causing those occasional misfires.

 

Taping with electrical tape is never an effective repair, the vacuum pipe will simply be moving at the connections when ever the engine rocks under changes on load and speed, and the non return valve has probably been compromised by dirt as mine had.

 

You changed the plugs, which is good as they were worn, one was even loose.

 

Now change that vacuum pipe, its the only effective repair. You will benefit from having full brake assistance in reserve not only when the engine is turned off , but in an emergency when you may need to call on hard braking several times in quick succession and if ABS kicks in.

 

There is no need to change coils at this stage, as the above may fix everything nicely and there is nothing wrong with your coils.

 

Do not buy that ebay rubbish, read the sellers description ......They don't fit your car anyway!

 

Do the vacuum pipe first, then check with your OBD eleven that the misfires have gone away. Then think about changing the ONE faulty coil.

 

 

3 minutes ago, xman said:

@froggy8

 

You've shown us the white deposited plugs AND admitted your brake vacuum pipe is split,  I'm sure the problem are air leaks.into the inlet manifold randomly weakening your mixture, running excessively lean and probably causing those occasional misfires.

 

Taping with electrical tape is never an effective repair, the vacuum pipe will simply be moving at the connections when ever the engine rocks under changes on load and speed, and the non return valve has probably been compromised by dirt as mine had.

 

You changed the plugs, which is good as they were worn, one was even loose.

 

Now change that vacuum pipe, its the only effective repair. You will benefit from having full brake assistance in reserve not only when the engine is turned off , but in an emergency when you may need to call on hard braking several times in quick succession and if ABS kicks in.

 

There is no need to change coils at this stage, as the above may fix everything nicely and there is nothing wrong with your coils.

 

Do not buy that ebay rubbish, read the sellers description ......They don't fit your car anyway!

 

Do the vacuum pipe first, then check with your OBD eleven that the misfires have gone away. Then think about changing the ONE faulty coil.

 

 

thank you,

 

i will be ringing my garage tomorrow to get a quote on replacing the vacuum pipe, i know its an easy fix but if its cheap enough then i might just aswel let garage sort it. they might even have the pipe in their garage already.

 

i will do the code reading tomorrow and will update.

(deleted as link didn't work, I was wrong about it)

 

But agree fully with buying good OEM quality parts for things like this, buying cheap can be very expensive in the long, medium and even short run.

 

Edited 28 January, 20224 yr by nta16

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

But agree fully with buying good OEM quality parts for things like this, buying cheap can be very expensive in the long, medium and even short run.

 

Buy cheap, buy twice and so forth.

ok guys, an update:

 

did the code reading and these came up:

 

engine: cyl.3 misfire detected code: P0303

 

air conditioning: ctrl module faulty code: 65535

 

gateway: radio code: 01304

 

 

the air conditioning has always been there and so has the gateway.

 

you guys were right about the misfire, its on cylinder 3 so do i just change the coil pack for cylinder 3 or now that i have erased the code, it wont come back?

1. Fix the servo pipe.

2. Move coilpacks between cylinders 1 and 3 (swap positions).

3. Drive for long enough to see either a) problems all gone and no codes come back, or 

b) misfires logged but now on cyl 1 - replace that one coilpack which was on cyl 3, now on 1, or 

c) misfires return on cyl 3. Time to compression test.

6 hours ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

1. Fix the servo pipe.

2. Move coilpacks between cylinders 1 and 3 (swap positions).

3. Drive for long enough to see either a) problems all gone and no codes come back, or 

b) misfires logged but now on cyl 1 - replace that one coilpack which was on cyl 3, now on 1, or 

c) misfires return on cyl 3. Time to compression test.

thank you, will do that.

7 hours ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

1. Fix the servo pipe.

2. Move coilpacks between cylinders 1 and 3 (swap positions).

3. Drive for long enough to see either a) problems all gone and no codes come back, or 

b) misfires logged but now on cyl 1 - replace that one coilpack which was on cyl 3, now on 1, or 

c) misfires return on cyl 3. Time to compression test.

 

2. Move coilpacks between cylinders 1 and 3 (swap positions) AND reset all error codes (regarding misfires)

3 minutes ago, xman said:

 

2. Move coilpacks between cylinders 1 and 3 (swap positions) AND reset all error codes (regarding misfires)

thank you, will do as soon as i find out which is cylinder 1 and 3. i have googled where cylinder 3 is and its saying its the furthest left one? i would have thought it was the furthest right one.

2 minutes ago, froggy8 said:

thank you, will do as soon as i find out which is cylinder 1 and 3. i have googled where cylinder 3 is and its saying its the furthest left one? i would have thought it was the furthest right one.

 

Just swap the two ends and leave the middle alone, you may not need a coil pack unless the misfire moves from 3 to 1.

@xman I thought he said he'd already cleared code.

@froggy8 you need to make sure you know the right left...

1 minute ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

@xman I thought he said he'd already cleared code.

@froggy8 you need to make sure you know the right left...

i cleared the code about 7pm last night and drove around for about an hour, checked the codes and only 2 that keeps popping up. the gateway and the air conditioner. 

 

i did google them 2 and apparently people are saying its something to do with VW TPI? either its a software issue or its meant to do that? quite confusing.

 

i will be driving some more and update later  

6 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Just swap the two ends and leave the middle alone, you may not need a coil pack unless the misfire moves from 3 to 1.

thank you, will do.

11 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

@xman I thought he said he'd already cleared code.

@froggy8 you need to make sure you know the right left...

He may have run the engine between clearing codes and swapping coils so just being a little pedantic in case new pending codes popped up in that period.

 

Cylinder 1 is furthest from the gearbox/battery and closest to oil filter/alternator end. Left side looking from the front ro the rear of car.

 

The aircon code 65535 (-1 or 0xffff) is ”unspecified" error. Whenever I've seen this is usually due to low gas, and the aircon therefore not working.

 

Radio code might be the connector not fully home, has the radio ever been out or is it not the original radio?

Edited 29 January, 20224 yr by xman

3 minutes ago, xman said:

He may have run the engine between clearing codes and swapping coils so just being a little pedantic in case new pending codes popped up in that period.

 

Cylinder 1 is furthest from the gearbox/battery and closest to oil filter/alternator end. Left side looking from the front ro the rear of car.

 

The aircon code 65535 (-1 or 0xffff) is ”unspecified" error. Whenever I've seen this is usually due to low gas, and the aircon therefore not working.

 

Radio code might be the connector not fully home, has the radio ever been out of is it not the original radio?

thank you, had a feeling its the one furthest to the left.

 

the aircon works fine, it is very cold when i put it on.

 

when the otiginal radio was in, i made sure everything was nice and tight but now i have put another radio in as i needed usb.

Edited 29 January, 20224 yr by froggy8

I remember now, the 65535 unspecified code, was on my old Alhambra climate control accompanied by the LCD flashing for 10 seconds on start up.

 

It was due to a small fan in the CC unit that pulls in air over a temperature sensor stalled due a build up of dirt/dust/grime.

 

If you have climate control, IIRC there is what appears to be small grills either side of the butttons, that where it samples the air temperature.

 

I used a tiny paint brush and a vaccuum cleaner hose to poke around and dislodge the dust and suck it out.

 

I could hear (with engine off) when the tiny fan finally started up. The flashing and error code then cleared.

 

20 minutes ago, xman said:

I remember now, the 65535 unspecified code, was on my old Alhambra climate control accompanied by the LCD flashing for 10 seconds on start up.

 

It was due to a small fan in the CC unit that pulls in air over a temperature sensor stalled due a build up of dirt/dust/grime.

 

If you have climate control, IIRC there is what appears to be small grills either side of the butttons, that where it samples the air temperature.

 

I used a tiny paint brush and a vaccuum cleaner hose to poke around and dislodge the dust and suck it out.

 

I could hear (with engine off) when the tiny fan finally started up. The flashing and error code then cleared.

 

brilliant! i will have a good look around later, thank you