Tyre rumble @ random points

[AnnoyingPentium]

22 minutes ago, Tomjones1995 said:

If I turn really hard into a left hand bend which would obviously load up the offside side of the car then yes it can occasionally wobble more at those times but don't every time

 

Offside wheel bearing of some sort I imagine then? Mine didn't wobble consistently when cornering.

[Tomjones1995]

1 minute ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

 

Offside wheel bearing of some sort I imagine then? Mine didn't wobble consistently when cornering.

 

Yeah perhaps, as I say it doesn't have any play in it when stationary and there's no audible grinding, rubbing noise to indicate any friction when you spin the wheel either.

 

So It would be a guess in changing it but that would be a cheap enough place to start I suppose and then the alloys

[nta16]

I was thinking of vibrating feel to the brake pedal but I suppose with the remoteness and all the computers of a modern car that might not apply.

 

So not high mileage then, and I get the higher tyre pressure to the front for heavy engine but does the actual Driver's Handbook, or on the car give a 5 psi difference front to rear (rather than web info).

 

With the decades old fashion for big wide wheels and wide ultra low profile tyres that often actually add more unsprang weight unless the wheels are a lot lighter, and this often means the wheels are less robust.  So more wheel and less tyre to cushion road the tyre, wheel and car from impacts and more noticeable wobbles perhaps.

 

You are taking nearside as nearest the kerb (in UK).

 

[nta16]

6 minutes ago, Tomjones1995 said:

So It would be a guess in changing it but that would be a cheap enough place to start I suppose and then the alloys

Don't make any assumptions, check everything, but I've just read you're taking it to a garage so if they're any good they should sort it whatever it is.

 

On a car with that sort of mileage and age there could be so many contributing factors too.

 

Brakes, steering and suspension are all affected by the tyres but also the wheels play a factor and brakes, steering and suspension are very important so best that things are sorted before they go too far.  As I put I can't see buckled wheels helping with fair wear and tear.

 

Have you checked other suspension items as well, perhaps bushes, even engine mounts bushings, wear in one item can promote wear in others and you can get an accumulated effect that can be more difficult to pin down.

 

If you could borrow a suitable set of other wheels with tyres to test drive on that might help to narrow things down.

 

Be interesting to see what the garage find.

 

[Tomjones1995]

17 minutes ago, nta16 said:

I was thinking of vibrating feel to the brake pedal but I suppose with the remoteness and all the computers of a modern car that might not apply.

 

So not high mileage then, and I get the higher tyre pressure to the front for heavy engine but does the actual Driver's Handbook, or on the car give a 5 psi difference front to rear (rather than web info).

 

With the decades old fashion for big wide wheels and wide ultra low profile tyres that often actually add more unsprang weight unless the wheels are a lot lighter, and this often means the wheels are less robust.  So more wheel and less tyre to cushion road the tyre, wheel and car from impacts and more noticeable wobbles perhaps.

 

You are taking nearside as nearest the kerb (in UK).

 

 

I get the tyre pressures from the sticker behind the fuel filler cap not from online and yes I'm using U.K terms for nearside/offside etc. Sorry for the confusion.

 

5 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Don't make any assumptions, check everything, but I've just read you're taking it to a garage so if they're any good they should sort it whatever it is.

 

On a car with that sort of mileage and age there could be so many contributing factors too.

 

Brakes, steering and suspension are all affected by the tyres but also the wheels play a factor and brakes, steering and suspension are very important so best that things are sorted before they go too far.  As I put I can't see buckled wheels helping with fair wear and tear.

 

Have you checked other suspension items as well, perhaps bushes, even engine mounts bushings, wear in one item can promote wear in others and you can get an accumulated effect that can be more difficult to pin down.

 

If you could borrow a suitable set of other wheels with tyres to test drive on that might help to narrow things down.

 

Be interesting to see what the garage find.

 

 

As I say this has been going on for a while with little standing out as the obvious cause so far. It's been into 2 maybe 3 different garages all are saying it's fine which it most certainly isn't.

 

 

If you say that the cause could be a multitude of things then perhaps I shouldn't continue pursuing the cause and just 'get rid' of the car altogether?

 

I'm torn between part exchanging it or just spending on what it needs, because it has other issues aside from the before mentioned issue

 

 

Thanks for the advice,

Tom

 

[nta16]

48 minutes ago, Tomjones1995 said:

I get the tyre pressures from the sticker behind the fuel filler cap not from online

Great.  I was just a little surprised with the 5psi and only noticed it on W tyres.

 

 

49 minutes ago, Tomjones1995 said:

I'm using U.K terms for nearside/offside etc. Sorry for the confusion.

Probably me misreading.

 

 

55 minutes ago, Tomjones1995 said:

It's been into 2 maybe 3 different garages all are saying it's fine which it most certainly isn't.

It can be difficult to find a good garage and mechanic, those that are usually have have more work than they want or can handle so have long waiting times.

 

Sometimes a specialist place is required for something like this a sports type place, not always expensive as you think because they get so much regular return work from the vehicles being used in sports.  Have you had the car's four wheels geometry checked at a decent tyre place.  It used to be the place to go for alignments was the Porsche dealerships as they had so many problems with one model (Boxster?) that all their mechanics got a lot of training about geometry, but this was many years ago and Porsche labour rates are high.

 

1 hour ago, Tomjones1995 said:

If you say that the cause could be a multitude of things then perhaps I shouldn't continue pursuing the cause and just 'get rid' of the car altogether?

 

I'm torn between part exchanging it or just spending on what it needs, because it has other issues aside from the before mentioned issue

The multitude of things could be minor or non-existent, just when diagnosing you have to have an open mind and not rule things in or out until you run checks or tests, if someone only looks for certain causes and it's not those then the issue will remain unresolved.

 

Only you can decide if you want shot of the car, if car prices are still OTT then it may be better to hold on plus you're staying with what you know - but if it's doing your head in all cars are only money-pit lumps of metal anyway.

 

If the wheels are the major or only cause of the wobble perhaps you can get them sorted or changed.  If your in a club with like-minded members perhaps you could arrange a wheel swap and see if the wheel swap transfers or eliminates the problem to any extent.

 

How do you know the wheel(s) are wobbling, do you see it or feel it and how?

 

Briefly, what are the other issues as there might be so relationship? 

  

[Tomjones1995]

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

Great.  I was just a little surprised with the 5psi and only noticed it on W tyres.

 

 

Probably me misreading.

 

 

It can be difficult to find a good garage and mechanic, those that are usually have have more work than they want or can handle so have long waiting times.

 

Sometimes a specialist place is required for something like this a sports type place, not always expensive as you think because they get so much regular return work from the vehicles being used in sports.  Have you had the car's four wheels geometry checked at a decent tyre place.  It used to be the place to go for alignments was the Porsche dealerships as they had so many problems with one model (Boxster?) that all their mechanics got a lot of training about geometry, but this was many years ago and Porsche labour rates are high.

 

The multitude of things could be minor or non-existent, just when diagnosing you have to have an open mind and not rule things in or out until you run checks or tests, if someone only looks for certain causes and it's not those then the issue will remain unresolved.

 

Only you can decide if you want shot of the car, if car prices are still OTT then it may be better to hold on plus you're staying with what you know - but if it's doing your head in all cars are only money-pit lumps of metal anyway.

 

If the wheels are the major or only cause of the wobble perhaps you can get them sorted or changed.  If your in a club with like-minded members perhaps you could arrange a wheel swap and see if the wheel swap transfers or eliminates the problem to any extent.

 

How do you know the wheel(s) are wobbling, do you see it or feel it and how?

 

Briefly, what are the other issues as there might be so relationship? 

  

 

I've had a look at other cars but with the amount I've spent on this already, I worry with a relatively small budget of 3k buying a VAG car again with similar speed, economy and car tax cost would leave me with a high mileage 13 year old car such as a Golf GT TDI for example or the Skoda Octavia Vrs TDI 170. My budget is just to small to stretch further.

 

I've seen the wheels wobble sideways on a wheel balancer and I get the sensation that the wheel is wobbling on the road.

 

 

Briefly the outstanding problems I'm aware of is...

 

1. Clutch and DMF which has been quoted this morning as £1,000

 

2. Bodywork rusting in parts which would be pointless spending mechanically to have a rusty car in the end. Unsure of price, going to a body shop to get a quote later today or tomorrow

 

3. EML light on for a glow plug which I'm not sure is a glow plug because they're only 3 yrs old and aren't that prone to failure that frequent I thought.

 

4. Then potentially 2 brake discs on back due to being scored

 

5. 4 new/second hand alloys £300-400

 

Which equates by my very rough calculations £2-2.5k in bringing it back up to standard.

 

I've already spent circa £4k without MOT and servicing on it as it is with little to show for it

 

Hopefully that's brief enough,

 

Many thanks,

Tom

 

 

[AnnoyingPentium]

26 minutes ago, Tomjones1995 said:

4 new/second hand alloys £300-400

 

What about these? Not going to be showroom perfect, but they're better than nothing.

[TMB]

1 hour ago, Tomjones1995 said:

3. EML light on for a glow plug which I'm not sure is a glow plug because they're only 3 yrs old and aren't that prone to failure that frequent I thought.

 

Faulty brake light switch can cause the glow plug light to come on.

[Tomjones1995]

2 hours ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

 

What about these? Not going to be showroom perfect, but they're better than nothing.

 

I've seen an add for some which are £300 which match my current alloys. I'd prefer those really but thanks for looking .

 

1 hour ago, TMB said:

 

Faulty brake light switch can cause the glow plug light to come on.

 

That's a good shout, I'l be sure to mention that to the mechanic when it goes in and see what they say

 

 

Thanks to you both,

Tom

[DieselMonte]

I've seen quite a few sets of fabia vRS spyders for the £100 mark, tyres and all. My set were 80 euro and while they were rough to say the least, all the tyres held air and 2 of them were perfectly fine for road use. I painted mine up to get them looking presentable but thats just cosmetics.

Any 5x100 vw rims would work, whatever you can get a good deal on really.

 

Rear discs aren't much either. I paid just over 20 euro for 2 discs for the same.

 

Clutch and DMF job would be pricey, but most of that is from the price of a dmf. If you were to convert it to a smf you'd be taking a lot off that £1000 quote.

[AnnoyingPentium]

1 minute ago, DieselMonte said:

I've seen quite a few sets of fabia vRS spyders for the £100 mark, tyres and all. My set were 80 euro and while they were rough to say the least, all the tyres held air and 2 of them were perfectly fine for road use. I painted mine up to get them looking presentable but thats just cosmetics.

Any 5x100 vw rims would work, whatever you can get a good deal on really.

 

My Bohemia ones were £180 without tyres but were pretty stellar at the time. However they can be had for cheaper. At least if you can get a cheap set of something (even steels) for testing, then you'd be able to rule things out, then whack the spares up for sale when you're done, I suppose.

[DieselMonte]

1 hour ago, TMB said:

 

Faulty brake light switch can cause the glow plug light to come on.

+1, my glow plug lights on because I've the fuse to it pulled. 

1 minute ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

 

My Bohemia ones were £180 without tyres but were pretty stellar at the time. However they can be had for cheaper. At least if you can get a cheap set of something (even steels) for testing, then you'd be able to rule things out, then whack the spares up for sale when you're done, I suppose.

OP can swap his tyres onto another set of spyders either

[Tomjones1995]

49 minutes ago, DieselMonte said:

I've seen quite a few sets of fabia vRS spyders for the £100 mark, tyres and all. My set were 80 euro and while they were rough to say the least, all the tyres held air and 2 of them were perfectly fine for road use. I painted mine up to get them looking presentable but thats just cosmetics.

Any 5x100 vw rims would work, whatever you can get a good deal on really.

 

Rear discs aren't much either. I paid just over 20 euro for 2 discs for the same.

 

Clutch and DMF job would be pricey, but most of that is from the price of a dmf. If you were to convert it to a smf you'd be taking a lot off that £1000 quote.

 

I wasn't sure if all the 5x100 alloys would be compatible, stupid I know. I'll type that in on eBay and Facebook and see what pops up.

 

Question about the brake light switch, is that a simple DIY job? I may do it myself if it is.

 

Also the SMF won't dampen vibrations the same as a DMF though will it?

 

 

47 minutes ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

 

My Bohemia ones were £180 without tyres but were pretty stellar at the time. However they can be had for cheaper. At least if you can get a cheap set of something (even steels) for testing, then you'd be able to rule things out, then whack the spares up for sale when you're done, I suppose.

 

That's not a bad idea actually! I'll have a look

 

 

Thanks for the suggestions, this really helps with making the decision to repair or sell it. So far I'm being persuaded into keeping!

 

Many thanks,

Tom

 

[AnnoyingPentium]

4 minutes ago, Tomjones1995 said:

Thanks for the suggestions, this really helps with making the decision to repair or sell it. So far I'm being persuaded into keeping!

 

I'd be inclined to keep it given it's been some time that you've had it for and you'll know more about than trying to gamble on some Arthur Daley second hand shed.

[Tomjones1995]

36 minutes ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

 

I'd be inclined to keep it given it's been some time that you've had it for and you'll know more about than trying to gamble on some Arthur Daley second hand shed.

 

Yes, 'Better the devil you know' as they say!

 

[DieselMonte]

 

5x100 VW stuff 100% will.

Mk4 Golf platform aswell as Polo/Ibiza sister cars will all fit.

Always thought a Set of Montreals would look ace on a vRS.

 

Brake light switch should be easy to do, stick your head under the dash and you'll see a button looking thing near the top of the brake pedal, thats what you're looking at changing.

 

SMF wouldn't dampen vibrations as well as a DMF no, but you'd get used to it pretty quick. Its definately not going to shake it to death. Worth noting a Heavier Single mass flywheel will dampen more vibrations than a lighter one.

[nta16]

Tom,

as others have covered one side I'll cover the other  - no matter you've spent before you must consider that as in the past, the amount of money is irrelevant, it's gone, it's what you have now as condition of the car and how much more you're going to spend.  You don't want to be putting good money after bad.  Take it from me I've done it a couple of times and both in multiples of what you have, all lost money I could have used on much better things.  I wouldn't repeat those mistakes now and wish I hadn't then but you can't alter the past only the present and the future perhaps..

 

You might not appreciate what I've put now but possibly later you will understand what is vitally important today can be totally forgotten about in the future with other priorities, life, experience and perhaps age.

 

Good luck with however you precede.

 

[Tomjones1995]

It's a difficult decision and what I've decided i'l do is purchase some new/ decent second hand alloys and see if that fixes the wobbling, rumbling and if it doesn't see if it's a wheel bearing.

 

Failing that, then I'll cut my losses and part exchange it

 

 

Thanks to you all for the advice, you've been more than helpful  

 

[rum4mo]

Maybe a silly sounding question, but what wheels size and tyre size are currently fitted to that car, the VW Polo wheels that @Annoying Pentium pointed you to would have been what was fitted to that car when it left the factory ie  (5X100) ALLOY WHEELS 195/55R15 (6Q0601025L), I reckon that as time went on some of these Polos ended up with earlier Golf wheels and so bigger tyres, or same age Golf wheels with adaptors and maybe even without bore centre bore size "correctors".

 

So, could you please tell us, or at least me, what size of tyres are on all 4 wheels and which VW wheels are on it now.

[nta16]

11 hours ago, Tomjones1995 said:

205/45/16 tyres on 16" VW Montreal alloys

It's a GT how could it possibly be on sensible sized wheels and tyres.

 

[Tomjones1995]

21 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

Maybe a silly sounding question, but what wheels size and tyre size are currently fitted to that car, the VW Polo wheels that @Annoying Pentium pointed you to would have been what was fitted to that car when it left the factory ie  (5X100) ALLOY WHEELS 195/55R15 (6Q0601025L), I reckon that as time went on some of these Polos ended up with earlier Golf wheels and so bigger tyres, or same age Golf wheels with adaptors and maybe even without bore centre bore size "correctors".

 

So, could you please tell us, or at least me, what size of tyres are on all 4 wheels and which VW wheels are on it now.

 

Hi, 205/45/16 and VW Montreal 16" alloys. They came like that from the factory. Thanks

 

3 minutes ago, nta16 said:

It's a GT how could it possibly be on sensible sized wheels and tyres.

 

 

I would consider 14" to be sensible on a car this size in my opinion.

 

I was under the impression at the time back in 2005 that 16" would of been the more sporty size and that over the last 17 years, alloys gave been getting progressively larger, much the same way that smartphones are.

 

I'm not sure but that's my assumption

 

[AnnoyingPentium]

1 minute ago, Tomjones1995 said:

I would consider 14" to be sensible on a car this size in my opinion.

 

I was under the impression at the time back in 2005 that 16" would of been the more sporty size and that over the last 17 years, alloys gave been getting progressively larger, much the same way that smartphones are.

 

Mine came on 14" steels. Anything between 14" and 15" seems "sensible" to me, even now when alloys are larger than the pizzas you get in Pizza Hut for the fifty thousand.

 

16" was what the vRS took, as did your other sporty models - besides the Fabia Sport... which was anything but, it took the Bohemia alloys which I have fitted to mine.  

[rum4mo]

I don't think Montreal in 16" were ever fitted to these cars at the factory, Melbourne in 15" were!

 

So I'd think that you have found the possible root cause of this problem - I ordered up a new VW Polo from round about that age, never ever factory fitted Montreals in 16" - they are Golf/Vento wheels.

 

Grab the 15" Melbournes ASAP and fix your car.

[rum4mo]

One other thing, what did things look like when you removed a 16" VW Montreal from your car, did you spot an adaptor to change the fixing bolt spacing from 5 X 100 to 5 X 11?, I've forgotten the PCD of these Montreal either 112 or 115, and if so, was it a VW specific adaptor that had built into it a bore diameter change to help centre these wheels?

 

Normally when you fit wheels that have a different centre bore, you can fit a "bore changer" into the centre bore of the new wheels and that will then fit snuggly to the car's hub centre bore, but if your car has already got an adaptor on that hub, there probably will now not be an centre bore projection, so that easy fix will not work for you.