Something nagging me before I replace my suspension is that the manual states "replace after each removal" of certain nuts & bolts & I see no sensible reason why other than a money grab for overpriced bolts from the stealers. I would appreciate hearing your opinions on this because I only want to do the job once.

 

Front image: no.5 comes with new front shocks but what about no.7,10,11 & 19

 

Rear image: no.13 comes with new rear shocks but what about no.8 & 15

 

 

9 minutes ago, OccySport said:

the manual states "replace after each removal"

 

Lots of folk will chime in with "they're stretch bolts, you can tell because they quote torque plus angle" etc. but I think that's almost entirely not the real reasoning.

 

In reality, it's about the loss of accuracy when tightening used, often corroded fasteners. Even with the superior accuracy of torque plus angle, the initial torque stage is heavily dominated by friction in terms of how much of the applied torque is converted to tension in the bolt. So corroded fasteners will get to this initial torque earlier than they should, meaning the final angle tigthening will not result in the designed pre-tension.

Bolts that come loose are potentially dangerous; Skoda won't risk that originating in their workshops, so specify replacement anywhere where a dangerous outcome could occur if it happened.

Edited 14 April, 20224 yr by Pete_Ex-Wino

12 minutes ago, OccySport said:

Front image: no.5 comes with new front shocks but what about no.7,10,11 & 19

From the drawing, #5 is a Nyloc.

3 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

 

Lots of folk will chime in with "they're stretch bolts, you can tell because they quote torque plus angle" etc. but I think that's almost entirely not the real reasoning.

 

In reality, it's about the loss of accuracy when tightening used, often corroded fasteners. Even with the superior accuracy of torque plus angle, the initial torque stage is heavily dominated by friction in terms of how much of the applied torque is converted to tension in the bolt. So corroded fasteners will get to this initial torque earlier than they should, meaning the final angle tigthening will not result in the designed pre-tension.

Bolts that come loose are potentially dangerous; Skoda won't risk that originating in their workshops, so specify replacement anywhere where a dangerous outcome could occur if it happened.

The originals shouldn't be all that rusty & the thought of stretch bolts did spring to mind but I dont think they would be. I have changed springs on previous cars & reused the bolts without any problems but have no experience with VAG & I'm a bit unsure what to do.

7 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

From the drawing, #5 is a Nyloc.

Yes its Nyloc 22mm on my replacement B4s & through research it should be 21mm on the originals.

22 minutes ago, OccySport said:

The originals shouldn't be all that rusty

Probably true at ~5 years old but they're writing instructions for general use whatever the age of car.

With changes in coating materials away from those with hazardous materials (cadmium?), even relatively young genuine fasteners seem to corrode quite rapidly.

As this post was duplicated in the Mk2 & Mk3 sections, I'm presuming that all the relevant replies above (from the Mk2 section) actually appertain to the Mk3?

I like to change them where possible, if I have to re-use old fittings I tend to give them a good clean but either way I have never had an issue.
I recently changed my front shocks & mounts and all the bolts came supplied with the exception of 19, that was supplied with the droplink... TPS quoted me around £15 for the fastners so it isn't bank breaking if you do need them.

40 minutes ago, john999boy said:

As this post was duplicated in the Mk2 & Mk3 sections, I'm presuming that all the relevant replies above (from the Mk2 section) actually appertain to the Mk3?

When I originally posted this I noticed that it was in the wrong section so reposted to the Mk3 section because I have the Mk3 so I'm not sure but yes I would like all replies to be in the Mk3 section if can do that please.

 

Please be gentle with me because I only joined a couple of days ago & still finding my way around.

4 minutes ago, OccySport said:

When I originally posted this I noticed that it was in the wrong section so reposted to the Mk3 section because I have the Mk3 so I'm not sure but yes I would like all replies to be in the Mk3 section if can do that please.

Please be gentle with me because I only joined a couple of days ago & still finding my way around.

Don't worry - we don't bite.

A few members had already spotted what had happened and let the Staff know.

There is now only this thread for you to focus on. 👍

Just now, john999boy said:

Don't worry - we don't bite.

A few members had already spotted what had happened and let the Staff know.

There is now only this thread for you to focus on. 👍

Thanks for that, thought I was in trouble for a minute.

34 minutes ago, MATT0693 said:

I like to change them where possible, if I have to re-use old fittings I tend to give them a good clean but either way I have never had an issue.
I recently changed my front shocks & mounts and all the bolts came supplied with the exception of 19, that was supplied with the droplink... TPS quoted me around £15 for the fastners so it isn't bank breaking if you do need them.

Do you know if the bolts are standard thread or serated & what type of nuts as in nyloc or the locking type that are used on exhaust maninifolds?

 

Front:
Front Strut Piston Top Nut = 60Nm
7. Hex Collared Bolt  [N  10127707] M8X26 (6) 15Nm + 90°
10. Oval Hexagon Socket Head Bolt  [N  90954802] M12X1,5X80 (2) 70Nm + 180°
11. Hexagon Collar Nut Self-locking  [N  10106402] M12X1,5 (2) 70Nm + 180°
19. Hexagon Collar Nut  [N 015 081 6] M12X1,5 (2) 65Nm

 

Rear:
Rear Shock Piston Top Nut = 25Nm
8.Hex Collared Bolt [N  10628601] M12X1,50X75 (2) 70Nm + 180°
15.Hexagon Head Bolt (Combi) [N  90648402] m10x35 (4) 50Nm + 45°

At the very minimum, I'd replace 10+11 on the fronts and 8 on the rears, because they do get grubby and corrode, so don't normally come out without a fight. 

57 minutes ago, StevesTruck said:

At the very minimum, I'd replace 10+11 on the fronts and 8 on the rears, because they do get grubby and corrode, so don't normally come out without a fight. 

Yeah I think its going to be best to replace all the fixings, I will try my local TPS tomorrow but I'm unsure if they will let me have them cause I'm not a mechanic in the trade but I'll give it a go.

4 hours ago, OccySport said:

Yes its Nyloc 22mm on my replacement B4s & through research it should be 21mm on the originals.

Yes, well it really is sensible practice to replace Nylocs with new nuts every time they're undone because the nylon thread you cut when fitting the nut is all that holds it in place.

Just now, KenONeill said:

Yes, well it really is sensible practice to replace Nylocs with new nuts every time they're undone because the nylon thread you cut when fitting the nut is all that holds it in place.

The new shocks came with new nyloc nuts so I'm ok for them its just the rest of the fixings that I need to get my hands on & I'm hoping my local TPS will sell them to me.

I purchased all new genuine bolts to do this job when the weather picks up and they came to £65 in total. I have my Bilstein B4 and Eibach Pro kit sat in the garage. I also purchased new top mounts and bearings and the Clubsport S rear ARB, also new anti roll bar links front and rear. So a bit of work to do but a lot of fun none the less.

Probably a bit late, but try https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/vagbolts  I've used them a few times. 

Edited 17 April, 20224 yr by StevesTruck

On 17/04/2022 at 09:45, Ecomatt said:

I purchased all new genuine bolts to do this job when the weather picks up and they came to £65 in total. I have my Bilstein B4 and Eibach Pro kit sat in the garage. I also purchased new top mounts and bearings and the Clubsport S rear ARB, also new anti roll bar links front and rear. So a bit of work to do but a lot of fun none the less.

Do you actually need to replace top mounts & bearings or are you just going all out the belt & braces way.

22 hours ago, StevesTruck said:

Probably a bit late, but try https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/vagbolts  I've used them a few times. 

Thanks for this, just had a look & eBay item 174062917004 is correct for my car but only one in stock & I need to get all this done by Thursday or I'll need to cancel my alignment appointment thats on Friday.

 

I tried TPS on Saturday because I need to get this done but they have closed the shop for the public.

 

Out of interest would you happen to know the price from TPS compared to the price on eBay?

I have replaced the shocks on the last 2 Skodas and multiple vehicles before, I never replace bolts just for the sake of it but if that is what floats your boat then feel free, Nylocs can be re-used multiple times and you will feel if they ever lose their grip which only ever happens if they are removed from a heavily corroded exposed thread or they have been heated with a gas torch

 

The top bearings after the last job I would always now plan on replacing as one of mine spat out all its balls and I had to abandon the job and run metal to metal for a week (made no difference) until the new bearings arrived.

Edited 18 April, 20224 yr by J.R.

2 minutes ago, J.R. said:

I have replaced the shocks on the last 2 Skodas and multiple vehicles before, I never replace bolts just for the sake of it but if that is what floats your boat then feel free, Nylocs can be re-used multiple times and you will feel if they ever lose their grip which only ever happens if they are removed from a heavily corroded exposed thread or they have been heated withwith a gas torche

 

The top bearings after the last job I would always now plan on replacing as one of mine spatw out all its balls and I had to abandon the job and run metal to metal for a week (made no difference) uwntil the new bearings arrived.

I have reused bolts on previous cars but never worked on a VAG car so thanks for letting me know & I might just go ahead with using the existing bolts.

 

Did you remove the driveshafts? all other cars that Ive changed shocks on have just 2 bolts holding to the hub carrier & seem a lot less faff. I was thinking of jacking the front struts out of the carriers with a trolley jack, what you reckon?

 

Thanks for making sense of the bolt issue & I think my bearings would be ok because my steering is very smooth & car has only covered 21k.

You have to disconnect the lower swivel, the track rod end (I think), the hub nut and pull the now freeish steering knuckle off of the driveshaft in order to be able to lower the knuckle enough to release the strut.

 

A strut knuckle spreader socket makes life less eventfull, no chisels springing out of the clamp joint at the critical moment.

 

There are some good videos on Autodoc, a bit politically correct in that the mechanic has to be seen to use a torque torque  wrench on every fixing whereas in the real world with the exception perhaps of the hub nut they would rely on feel, even they do not use new fixing bolts or nylocs.

 

The videos are good because there is no talk, just the action.

 

And no "HI GUYS! - WHATS HAPPENING!" either!

Oh and buy a long reach hexagon drive to be able to retain the piston rod while you remove the nut using a 14mm spark plug socket with a hexagon end to the body, no room for a ring spanner and Allen key.

I have all the correct tools for the torque values & I also have the knuckle spreader socket.

 

My idea of jacking the strut out comes from this video