Hi all, had my power steering go out and it was diagnosed as a faulty pump, changed the pump and now has a little bit at 9 o’clock left lock to about 6 o’clock. Sent it to a garage as I though it was the rack. Been advised that it’s either some wiring or a Central Electric Control Module issue. Anyone else faced a similar problem? Cheers

26 minutes ago, ScottB832 said:

a Central Electric Control Module issue

That sounds really very unlikely.

 

The PAS system is pretty self-contained. Angle rate sensor plugs straight into PAS module; permanent power wiring; an ignition-on wire and a pair of CAN data lines is the totality of the system electrically.

 

 

I’ve just had an after though. The new (second hand) pump is same codes and everything, but it came out of a polo. Would it need coding to lighten the steering maybe?

Doubt it would be different enough to notice. Do you have the coding from the old pump available on a VCDS scan?

 

Unfortunately I don’t, didnt even think I may need it but here we are. Is it worth changing the coding to see if it helps?

Don't suppose you still have the original module either?

 

52 minutes ago, ScottB832 said:

now has a little bit at 9 o’clock left lock to about 6 o’clock

Can you clarify what you mean by this, please? A little bit of working OK or a little bit of not working OK?

I don’t have the original module unfortunately. And has a tiny bit that works. The rest feels very heavy 

Sounds mechanical to me, not electrical/electronic.

Had it checked today and they said more electrical as the rack seemed okay, might take it somewhere else and get a second opinion, thank you

It might be worth changing the angle sensor.

I just following on to this, I’ve found a code in the central electrics. 01598: Drive Battery Voltage Signal Too Low - Intermittent. I highly doubt this would affect the steering in any way but on the off chance, could this maybe be my issue?

That code usually correlates with the battery having been disconnected. If it hasn't been, a low battery voltage is very, very likely to be relevant.

Edited 30 June, 20223 yr by Breezy_Pete

Ah okay, just wanted to be sure. Thank you

@ScottB832 battery is always one of my first thoughts, for issues and problem solving, a battery and its connections in a good state and charge will help with resolving starting and electrical issues and a battery and connections in a poor state will hinder.  Often recharging (or replacing if required) a battery will resolve many issues much beyond what many people expect, especially with computer laidened cars like VWs.  I'm not saying your problem is the battery but a low state of charge might or won't help.

 

 

On 24/06/2022 at 13:59, ScottB832 said:

now has a little bit at 9 o’clock left lock to about 6 o’clock.

Have you progressed with this at all? Mine went out and only works between 9 and 6... haven't had a look over yet other than scanning and finding no codes. ATM I'm leaving it faulty as it's my only security 'device' 😂

Nope, no luck. Please let me know if you find your issue! May help me too lol

8 hours ago, ScottB832 said:

Nope, no luck. Please let me know if you find your issue! May help me too lol

Will do

 

I checked for fault codes, even though the light wasn't illuminated, no codes relating to PAS unfortunately. But I went into the data blocks in VCDS and have found reference voltage too low. I haven't found a set solution to what this exactly means just yet, but I did notice yesterday evening when I performed a battery reset (remote locking faulty too) that the negative terminal on my battery was loose (I.e. it was holding on, but you could spin the terminal on the post). As this will be adding x ohms of resistance I'm going to pick up a new terminal from halfrauds as they're just round the corner from my customer today, replace it and I'll report back my findings... the way I see it, for £2.33 even if it doesn't help, which I'm sure it probably won't, at least I'm fixing the battery issue before something else goes out

Photo of the negative clamp?

Possibly just needs the screw loosening off lots, then the thing being pushed further down the taper of the battery post?

I'll post one tonight, I did remove it and try to repair. It's in my nature as a electro/mechanical service engineer

 

I'll buy a terminal in case, at £2 it doesn't matter if its not needed.

Edited 7 July, 20223 yr by Xhuy10nx

Whenever anyone talks about a battery clamp that can't be tightened enough, I always like to mention the taper of the battery posts, cos I don't think everyone is aware of it.

People often might find a lot of things with the vehicle can get better or even repaired by having good, clean, secure battery connections, even electro/mechanical service engineers.  😉 😄

 

Being serious this might not sort or fully sort the particular issues but it will certainly help.

 

Edited 7 July, 20223 yr by nta16

13 minutes ago, nta16 said:

People often might find a lot of things with the vehicle can get better or even repaired by having good, clean, secure battery connections, even electro/mechanical service engineers.  😉 😄

 

Being serious this might not sort or fully sort the particular issues but it will certainly help.

 

I don't disagree

 

That's the next step but I ran out of time last night. My only thought as to why this may or may not work is that my steering works perfectly between 9 and 6 when turning left only. To me it feels rack related but I refuse to throw money at parts before I am confident that they're at fault haha

 

Only fault per say on VCDS is that the reference voltage is too low, I have no idea at present what that means, but I totally believe clean battery connections will only do that good, even if the fault isn't resolved 

The info you get off a scanner for a 2006 car is a lot less than later cars but all years errors don't always show with codes, the driver can see, hear, smell and feel when things aren't quite right beyond and before a scanner.  Some here don't like my description but the computers can play up in all sorts of ways if the battery power or supply is low to them, they don't have a lot so to lose little makes a big difference to them, poor connections and wires of course can also be a cause.  Certainly battery power which is why I bang on about it (apart from the battery always being important for power supply to the rest of the car, my car has not a single computer other than the very intermittent biological nut behind the wheel).

 

I was also thinking of your remote locking issue, whether that might be related to 'battery' issues.

 

Your power steering may well have other issues but a good electric supply to it and all the computers will help and poor may well hinder and ScottB832's similar problem hasn't been ruled out as electrical yet.

 

sepulchrave posted about angle sensor, can that be checked (again when it and the computer get fully power and signal/communication).

 

Hope you get it sorted and remote locking.

 

Oh yeah I know that, I've had plenty of VAG cars and they all behave differently on VCDS 

 

My plan once I inevitably find the cause for one or both is to report back into the forums and create a write up for them also, because we can't be the only 'sorry sods' who have experienced this exact fault or set of faults. 

 

At the moment the steering is on the back burner as I don't want to have someone attempt to nick the car and then have the benefit of soft steering to help their escape, as it stands an opportunist will very unlikely be able to get the car off the road we live on.

 

The remote locking issue is haunting nd taunting me, very strange how the alarm was effectively disabled before a scan, but that's a convo for a different post