Sorry, skipped the post… So if I understood correctly, there are differences between various 1.9Tdi camshafts, but the differences are so negligible that I wouldn’t be able to see them… and impossible to experience loss of power because of them, right? But being aftermarket, this particular cam may be out of spec and giving me a headache?! Didn’t know you had so much experience… You are literally the only person who told me that the car may be slower because of the egr delete…

Edited 23 September, 20223 yr by iwcham1979

1 hour ago, iwcham1979 said:

Sorry, skipped the post… So if I understood correctly, there are differences between various 1.9Tdi camshafts, but the differences are so negligible that I wouldn’t be able to see them… and impossible to experience loss of power because of them, right? But being aftermarket, this particular cam may be out of spec and giving me a headache?! Didn’t know you had so much experience… You are literally the only person who told me that the car may be slower because of the egr delete…

 

BLT sets the CEL when the EGR is missing or not working, ASZ does not. I don't know for certain if the ECU limits power with a lit CEL but given your symptoms I think it's likely, what you describe is exactly like limp home mode, especially since the car starts and idles well. You say it's boosting but you might be looking at requested rather than actual and it won't boost at all while stationary so you need to be driving it before you log a pull.

Edited 23 September, 20223 yr by sepulchrave

The very first symptoms of a bad cam are a rough idle, loss of power follows but by that time the idle is so rough the car starts stalling.

 

So

 

It's 

 

Not

 

The

 

Cam

 

Ok.

Before I removed the EGR, It was giving me a check engine light but I haven’t experienced any power loss with the light on. I am hesitant to map it out now, because that would introduce the third modification into the puzzle if it didn’t work. What I have changed so far is deleted Egr and changed the camshaft… The most logical assumption is that this cam is causing the issue… I don’t know… The mechanic recommends that we change the cam again, and do it by the oem part number on the original cam… 

Edited 23 September, 20223 yr by iwcham1979

Do what you want. I'm out.

The idle is fine once the car settles down, but after a longer drive, there is some weird faint knocking and tapping that shouldn’t bethere…

The car doesn’t smoke at all… Is it possible that there can be some kind of fuel restriction that doesn’t result in jerking, shaking, stuttering, cutting off?! I am going to  map out the Egr but I don’t have high hopes…

Can you tell me how to check fueling in VCDS  while driving?

Found this. I have 038 109 101 AH and an 038 109 101 R is what I should have taken. I'm gonna put back my old camshaft and map out the EGR and see what happens....

https://www.myturbodiesel.com/threads/pd-camshafts-2008-golf-tdi.29935/

https://www.kmotorshop.com/en/content/detail/139/identifying-the-right-camshaft-for-bls-engine

HVO287 (in my car) is for engines equipped with DPF, HVO 285 is what I should have taken... Whether it matters or not, I do not know! 

3 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

The very first symptoms of a bad cam are a rough idle, loss of power follows but by that time the idle is so rough the car starts stalling.

 

So

 

It's 

 

Not

 

The

 

Cam

 

Ok.

And just did a bit of research. All the TDI PD 8v camshafts appear to be the same. The only difference is the alloy, slightly different and stronger for engines with DPF. So my issue isn’t cam related, although it manifested itself after the cam change… The first thing I’m gonna try next week is map out the DPF, and I am positive it’s not gonna do any good… Jesus, it’s like I am fixing a Tesla. Crazy…

53 minutes ago, iwcham1979 said:

The first thing I’m gonna try next week is map out the DPF

 

You won't have a DPF on a Mk1 Fabia vRS.

1 hour ago, iwcham1979 said:

And just did a bit of research. All the TDI PD 8v camshafts appear to be the same. The only difference is the alloy, slightly different and stronger for engines with DPF. So my issue isn’t cam related, although it manifested itself after the cam change… The first thing I’m gonna try next week is map out the DPF, and I am positive it’s not gonna do any good… Jesus, it’s like I am fixing a Tesla. Crazy…

 

Why don't you just put the EGR back temporarily?

 

All this mucking about swapping everything around, what have you ACTUALLY done?

 

Changed the cam and lifters, changed the turbo, deleted the EGR system?

 

Is that it?

 

Let me help you with your mechanic, he'll always tell you to do something stupid that pays well. Guess why?

Hahah true… I think I am more likely to map out the Egr and put the old cam in…see what happens. And if it is the same, then the car has some other problem, which I believe it does…maybe fuel related… When I floor it in third gear I hear the turbo working and trying its best but something is holding it back… The car had had that Egr releted code and wasn’t amazing on top end power even before the cam change, so changing the cam and deleting the Egr might have just just exposed some underlying problem… I have been driving TDI PDs since 2004, and I know that this is not the normal sound, regardless of whether it is cam related or not… This choppy sound wasn’t present with the old cam.. And a healthy tdi pd isn’t supposed to sound like this… It’s either some sort of  fuel restriction, or this cam inside is garbage… 

https://youtube.com/shorts/XdwkwwyL3NQ?feature=share

If the car didn’t look like it was 3 years old, I mean it is really in mint condition, I would have set it on fire. The funniest thing is no codes 😂

Edited 23 September, 20223 yr by iwcham1979

Small update. I have put back the old camshaft and that did not solve the issue. The car is still low on power and high on fuel consumption… Something else is holding it back… When I disconnect the vacuum box clip and try pluging the holes with my finger, only one hole will suck in air…Is that how it’s supposed to be? Maybe it has a faulty vacuum box… Could the under fueling issue still cause higher fuel consumption, although it doesn’t make sense?

Edited 4 October, 20223 yr by iwcham1979

1 hour ago, iwcham1979 said:

…Is that how it’s supposed to be? 

 

Yes.

And how about a puff of white smoke when I start the car. Is it normal? It clears away instantly, but it is undoubtedly there… Could the injectors be working well at idle and show nothing out of the ordinary on vcds, and be bad under load… Now that I have ruled out the cam… I suspect injectors… The fuel consumption has gone up, the white smoke on start up… What do you think?  If you think it is a possibility, could I test it out with a set of working AL injectors from an ARL engine. I know the idle will be rough, because this is not ASZ but a BLT, but will they give the engine enough power under load? 

I have just had the Egr deleted from the Ecu and it didn’t solve the problem… 😞 

You need to log boost while doing a full pull, requested and actual, you're not getting enough AIR to go with all that fuel you're wasting which rules out the injectors somewhat.

Ok. Got it… What about testing the injectors with the spare AL ARL injectors? Swap and see what happens…I have a slight misfire, tractor sound… The mechanic has used an injector kit like this so I suspect he has done something wrong…  

You state boost showing good in VCDS, is this required or actual, a screen dump may assist knowledgeable people assist as we have never actually seen any data to back up your statements - are you reading it correctly. Also suggest reading the following posts, the 1st is factual info on an issue, with the 2nd being how to collect and share even more valid data :-

 

8 minutes ago, KeithCheetham said:

You state boost showing good in VCDS, is this required or actual, a screen dump may assist knowledgeable people assist as we have never actually seen any data to back up your statements - are you reading it correctly. Also suggest reading the following posts, the 1st is factual info on an issue, with the 2nd being how to collect and share even more valid data :-

 

W

 

26 minutes ago, KeithCheetham said:

You state boost showing good in VCDS, is this required or actual, a screen dump may assist knowledgeable people assist as we have never actually seen any data to back up your statements - are you reading it correctly. Also suggest reading the following posts, the 1st is factual info on an issue, with the 2nd being how to collect and share even more valid data :-

 

Thanks for the replies. I just saw that actual turbo boost value was almost 2.5bar, third gear full throttle…The car is like trying its best and then when the turbo should really pull I can hear a sound of air huhhuhuuuh and a faint squeal from the turbo…. It’s boosting well, the turbo is in great condition, but all that psi is going nowhere….I don’t think the mechanic did any logs… Sry guys, I am not a mechanic and I don’t have access to equipment… All I can do is listen to you and see what you think, give a mechanic a hint…

Guys, back on the Fabia today…. Changed the Maf sensor and no improvement… Since there is a misfire as soon as the rpm passes 1000, and the rom needle will oscillate ever so slightly, the first thing I would like to try is to swap the injectors for the set of ARL injectors that I have. My engine is BLT, not ASZ, so my question: If I do have injector issues, would a set  of healthy ARL injectors restore power even though the car would idle roughly?

Edited 13 October, 20223 yr by iwcham1979

Guys, just to report back. The problem has been solved. The car has been sold 😁