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Fabia Vrs Bigger turbo and no tune atm

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4 hours ago, KenONeill said:

Not sure I'd trust any of those figures.

 Below is screen shot from in my Fabia Greenline but no boost values shown as at tickover, and not prepared to drive and take photo - I was a passenger in the Polo viewing on my phone rather than the Android head unit in my Fabia. The main purpose of the post was to show that boost pressures can be viewed real-time. This may rule out boost issues given that this has occurred after multiple changes all being made at the same time so. Cannot explain over voltage, but the screengrab was taken shortly after starting hence not showing normal operating temp.

Torque Screen Image 2.jpg

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  • Guys, just to report back. The problem has been solved. The car has been sold 😁 

  • What does this mean please? It's a DIESEL it doesn't have an ignition system, it's like a load of old crap is falling out of somebodies mouth and you're just writing it down for us.   How ca

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All hoses checked for leaks and no codes apart from the EGR code… The only things  left to do are: 1. return the old turbo and see what happens, 2.  just map out the EGR and see what happens or 3.  go straight for the remap around 190hp with Egr deleted from the map and see what happens…. Some decent mechanics consulted and they all think it’s the bigger turbo and old map that is causing the issue, and possible limp mode because of the EGR removed…which I think is stupid because when I clear the EGR code on my Delphi diag, it should give me the window to test it until the check engine reappears… When I clear the code there is no improvement in performance…😂

Edited by iwcham1979

6 minutes ago, iwcham1979 said:

All hoses checked for leaks and no codes apart from the EGR code… The only thing left to do is either return the old turbo and see what happens, or go straight for the remap around 190hp with Egr deleted from the map and see what happens…. 😂

 

Have you checked the actuator is working properly?

 Going straight to a 190 map will do nothing if the turbo is badly set up or not even working. Your SDI statements leads me to believe that there is no boost, but you need to identify this first. By all means swap the turbo back, but how much work is involved compared to only looking for an actual boost value. What is the EGR code telling you and was the present before you swapped all those items out, as that code could be instigating limp mode. EGR map out can be quite simple but you need to identify root cause of the overall issue before modifying things that could then add other issues to your original.

Scrapyard tuning usually ends in tears. Spend some money or give up on the modified motah mayhem!

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Yes, I will swap the old turbo back…. The cam an followers are changed, Egr deleted and ARL turbo fitted… Too many changes imo. I don’t want to ne solving the equation with 3 variables…. If the car has an issue with the old turbo back in place, that would mean that the mechanic has messed something up during the cam install process… The error with the EGR deleted is exactly the same one that I had with the faulty EGR in place… Rhe car had a check engine light with the faulty Egr in place, but no limp mode…

 

"19586 - EGR System: Regulation Range Exceeded P3130 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent"

 

Edited by iwcham1979

16 minutes ago, iwcham1979 said:

the mechanic has messed something up during the cam install process

The obvious issue there is the cam timing setting.

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3 hours ago, KenONeill said:

The obvious issue there is the cam timing setting.

Cam was set up on the spot, zero.

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Guys, the Arl turbo bosts fine in vcds. The mechanic put back the old turbo, and the car still experiences the loss od power 😞 I guess it is fuel related, right? Don’t tell me there cant be a way for the disgnostics to isolate the problem? What do you recommend we do? Something happened during the new camshaft install definitelly. On that occasion, injector seals were replaced as well as tamdem pump gasket. All torqued to spec, injector lash is Ok, ignition spot on. There is a slight misfire or something similar when driving over 1200-1500rpm…. No smoke. Tbe rurvo is getting enough air, vut I guess not enough fuel… how to check that…. Strangely, the duel consumption isn’t low…

On 18/09/2022 at 21:06, iwcham1979 said:

ignition spot on

 

What does this mean please? It's a DIESEL it doesn't have an ignition system, it's like a load of old crap is falling out of somebodies mouth and you're just writing it down for us.

 

How can the turbo be boosting properly in VCDS if the car is stuck in limp mode?

 

The stuff you're telling us just doesn't make any sense at all.

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Yes probably. I meant the torsion value of the camshaft is properly set up. According to the VCDS the turbo boost values are Ok. So if there is enough air, no power and no smoke, I guess the car has fueling issues… What else could that be… I have taken the car to another garage, so I hope they will find out what the problem is…

Edited by iwcham1979

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And the mechanic at the other garage told me he couldn’t fix it. All is torqued to spec, the turbo boosts fine, the injetor lash is good, no codes and no power 😱Is it possible that Egr needs to be mapped out? 

Edited by iwcham1979

2 minutes ago, iwcham1979 said:

And the mechanic at the other garage told me he couldn’t fix it. All is torqued to spec, the turbo boosts fine, the injetor lash is good, no codes and no power 😱Is it possible that Egr delete kit is causing the problem? 

 

If it's a BLT then yes, if ASZ then no.

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It IS a BLT

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Good idea to map it out then. I have to try that.

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But I doubt it’s gonna cure it because Blt Egr is still vacuum operated….

32 minutes ago, iwcham1979 said:

But I doubt it’s gonna cure it because Blt Egr is still vacuum operated….

 

On a BLT the ECU knows when the EGR has been messed with, on an ASZ you can just plug the vacuum pipe and the ECU is none the wiser.

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I’m gonna do it. Another tech at another garage suggested changing the camshaft again… 😱 It’s gonna cost me a lot, but lessons learned. Never buy parts yourself… I am still at a loss as to how a car can idle smoothly and start no problems with a bad or wrong camshaft… I bought a complete ET Engineteam camshaft set… I thought all the cams for a 1.9Tdi 8 valves are the same…

56 minutes ago, iwcham1979 said:

I’m gonna do it. Another tech at another garage suggested changing the camshaft again… 😱 It’s gonna cost me a lot, but lessons learned. Never buy parts yourself… I am still at a loss as to how a car can idle smoothly and start no problems with a bad or wrong camshaft… I bought a complete ET Engineteam camshaft set… I thought all the cams for a 1.9Tdi 8 valves are the same…

 

They are all the same.

 

Do you have any physical evidence that the cam is bad? I assume you changed the oil and filter and replaced all the stretch bolts as well.

 

Take off the rocker cover and carefully inspect the cam and followers for any signs of damage.

I note that they're cheaper cast iron parts and not steel, please check the physical condition of the cam and followers you have fitted, any tiny difference between the parts will not produce the symptoms you are experiencing.

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Well, my set doesn’t list Fabia at all.. The followers are Kobelsmith, but I guess 1.9Tdi camshafts are not the same after all…  I’ve got this one in my car atm… It probably isn’t lifting the valves fully and hence the loss of power with full tutbo boost… 

And I need HV0338. The ET cam that I bought is far better quality than the one in the link Breezy sent… 

AEC7403E-ACFD-4202-8572-C14927FB9665.jpeg

Edited by iwcham1979

It's like I'm moving my mouth but no sounds are coming out.

 

You're now at the stage where you're basically ignoring everything I say despite the fact I've been on here for 12 years and used to be in the engine reconditioning trade and have seen more wrecked PD heads than you've had hot dinners.

 

Unless your new cam or followers are damaged they're not the problem.

 

You're at the stage where you're only listening to your internal dialogue, good luck.

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😅

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