That's good news indeed.  Harder to judge from the photos than up close I expect, but first impression of the both-together photo is that they are correctly in step.  

It's possible that the crank pulley is one tooth out relative to both, but I think that would cause such a big mis-correlation that the engine wouldn't run.

 

Do you have any warning lights on currently?

.

 

Edited 15 October, 20223 yr by Breezy_Pete

Yes. The engine management light is on. When hooked up to the garage computer it apparently shows cam positioning sensor and originally low voltage suggesting the battery needed changing. I was told the last diagnostic only showed the cam positioning sensor. The garage mentioned the ignition coil pack as a possibility too. Honestly, I'm not knowledgeable enough at all to know one way or the other!

I think the crank pulley can jump a tooth with the cams staying in phase with each other because the sprocket is much smaller with much less wrap-around for the chain, it's easy enough to check.

Only 18 teeth on the crank sprocket though, so 20 degrees of mistiming with a jump. I think that would be valve soup, wouldn't it?

Thank you. Is it best for me to suggest this to the garage on Monday and compared to what we thought originally would I be right to think this is all pointing to something easier and cheaper?? Lol. In the meantime, would you drive it locally or not? I know its not easy to advise remotely! Happy with your best guess! I'd bring it to you as well if that was an option...seriously!! Talk about desperation!! 😂

I think it might be something much less worrying, yes.  Really needs further code-reading to see what's still coming up.

Does it feel like it's running on only 2 cylinders, or just badly but evenly?

 

I'd minimise driving of it as much as possible. 

Best to avoid telling garages what you think may be wrong, as they'll tend to just fix/replace that thing even if they don't for one second think that's really the problem. 

 

See if anyone on here is close to you for possible code-reading help: 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My gut says it's running on 2 cylinders and it definitely sounds wrong when idling, and has much less power than it used to. Actually sounds like a cheap lawnmower! 😂 I'll use the link and see.if I can arrange anything. I've really appreciated all your help. I'll keep you posted. Have a good evening. 👍

What is the battery voltage after the engine hasn't been started for about 8 to 12 hours?

 

You can measure from the cigarette lighter socket, but it's more accurate to measure directly from the battery terminals.

 

It should be about 12.7 Volts. Something much lower, perhaps about 12.3 Volts would mean that the battery voltage is too low for a standard SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) car battery.

 

Edited 15 October, 20223 yr by Carlston

Would that cause the engine management light to come on and stay on?

12 minutes ago, Northbynorthwest said:

Would that cause the engine management light to come on and stay on?

 

It might do, because it's an old car and things can compound each other. For example, if an Earth was poor...then low voltage in combination with a poor Earth could lead to electrical problems. Things like ECUs and engine management systems can stop working properly when the voltage drops too low.

 

It's a bit like a house smoke alarm. When the battery's voltage inside drops too low, it stops working.

 

Measuring the voltage is also a really easy check, and something that I would do first.

 

I use one of these to keep an eye on the car's battery voltage when I suspect the battery may be needing replacement and about to cause a car breakdown.

 

Car cigarette LED voltmeter

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134175541274

 

Edited 15 October, 20223 yr by Carlston

Thank you. I'll try that tomorrow and post an update. It would be fantastic if it was something as simple as that. Funny thing was the first diagnostic showed low voltage plus the cam positioning sensor. The sensor was replaced and new plugs fitted but the management light stayed on and it still lacks a lot of power, bit sluggish too. Fingers crossed. 👍

The coil packs (if it’s the type with them directly on the spark plug) can cause those symptoms. You can buy one and replace them one at a time with the good one to see if it’s one. If it is replace all three.

 

That wouldn’t explain the cam sensor error. I assume someone has scanned and saved the error codes then cleared them rather than just hoping they’ll go out?

After the first diagnostic the error cleared but returned quite quickly. The second time collecting from the garage the management light was on from the start. I'm not sure the garage were overly bothered due to the cars age! I'm going to check the battery tomorrow and if the voltage is low get a new one. After that I'll source someone else to do more diagnostic digging!

10 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

The slots should be parallel to one another whatever angle the engine is at. No need to turn it to see.

I have been scratching my head over this for ages before the penny finally dropped, you said parallel and not in line as in how I am used to checking most twin cams at TDC.

 

For some reason I had not visualised that they would always be parallel as you say.

 

Sorry for my confusion and muddying the waters with my posting.

 

If there is any doubt about the crank being one tooth out of phase then a check at TDC would be in order on the assumption that the slots should be aligned at TDC.

Battery voltage is in the green so it's not that! I've found a mobile diagnostic chap locally so am thinking of getting him to do his thing!

1 hour ago, Northbynorthwest said:

Battery voltage is in the green so it's not that! I've found a mobile diagnostic chap locally so am thinking of getting him to do his thing!

 

He'll tell you it needs a new cam position sensor, you need to get him to check the sensor wiring back to the ECU, if that's OK then I'm afraid I'm sticking to my instinct that it's slipped it's timing.

Will do, many thanks.