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Timing belt change, won't start.


bmbmdmb

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Neighbour who is towing car to garage with recovery wagon and is a car enthusiast said garage should have a go at timing themselves, he said this on basis that I got timing wrong once and was able to turn over engine manually without interference.

 

Should I be able to get TDC on crank with cam key locked in? cam pin  was definitely in the right place 4 to 5 o'clock on the cam sprocket. I was a tooth out of achieving TDC on crank, but unable to get locking key in for crank as I felt resistance when turning crank by hand.

 

He said they might take off head to find no damage. Personally I'm in the damaged valve camp, but I can understand his logic.

 

 

 

 

Edited by bmbmdmb
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1 hour ago, J.R. said:

Not sure if that is actually a word but I like it!

 

If it isn't it should be 👍

 

We need a modern day Michael Winner to use it and make it stick!

 

It certainly is a word and very useful for these times we're living through, I anglicise the spelling with an s instead of a z.

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1 hour ago, bmbmdmb said:

Neighbour who is towing car to garage with recovery wagon and is a car enthusiast said garage should have a go at timing themselves, he said this on basis that I got timing wrong once and was able to turn over engine manually without interference.

 

Should I be able to get TDC on crank with cam key locked in? cam pin  was definitely in the right place 4 to 5 o'clock on the cam sprocket. I was a tooth out of achieving TDC on crank, but unable to get locking key in for crank as I felt resistance when turning crank by hand.

 

He said they might take off head to find no damage. Personally I'm in the damaged valve camp, but I can understand his logic.

 

It doesn't take much force to bend a valve but it might be worth removing the cam lock and allowing the cam to move into an equilibrium between cylinders and trying again to turn the crank into position.

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52 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

removing the cam lock

I put car together now 

Is it plausible though that a bent valve(s) would reduce clearance, would it not allow more clearance?

 

Any endoscopes out there that can peer through glowplug hole? Garage want to remove head. 

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12 minutes ago, bmbmdmb said:

I put car together now 

Is it plausible though that a bent valve(s) would reduce clearance, would it not allow more clearance?

 

Any endoscopes out there that can peer through glowplug hole? Garage want to remove head. 

 

A bent valve stays sticking out once bent.

 

I find it extremely hard to believe that the timing could be SO far out and not bend at least one.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Car engine undamaged.

Timing was slightly out, then when the cam 3 bolts were loosened (without the cam locked) the cam spun freely and was out by 9 teeth 180 degrees on crank. In this position the car wasn't started and it would have damaged the engine valves. There was interference when turning crank by hand.

Local garage did a splendid job correcting. 

Edited by bmbmdmb
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1 hour ago, bmbmdmb said:

Car engine undamaged.

Timing was slightly out, then when the cam 3 bolts were loosened (without the cam locked) the cam spun freely and was out by 9 teeth 180 degrees on crank. In this position the car wasn't started and it would have damaged the engine valves. There was interference when turning crank by hand.

Local garage did a splendid job correcting. 

 

You are incredibly lucky, well done!

 

I've just finished rebuilding an Alfa 16V TS head which stripped the cambelt teeth while on tickover, it still managed to bend all the exhaust valves, two were so bad I couldn't dismantle them so I rebuilt everything into another head, the valve stem seals were all super crispy and it had been using tons of oil as a result.

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Yes, thank you. I'm taking it to garage next time. It is too infrequent a job that mistakes can be made. Had car out today and it pulls great, topped coolant up and changed engine oil. Went for 5w40 505.01 x flow pd. I think it is made by Comma. I was going to go back to 5w30 505.01 quantum plus but a lot of folk suggest 5w30 doesn't protect as much as 5w40 (both 505.01).

Car doesn't burn oil but 5w30 always seemed too thin to me (engine seemed a little noisier)

A lot of the 5w40 oils seem to target  pump dushe (PD) engines when reading description on rear of oil container or even their brand name, eg TX pd 5w40 oil etc. Other than the 505.01 specification, I don't see 5w30 oils going out their way to state they are perfect for PD engines.

 

What are people using in their PD that is 5w40? I got the X flow for £25 delivered. The 5w40 Quantum 505.01 is discontinued now which last two oil changes used.

 

I change oil at 5k miles, less than one year.

 

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46 minutes ago, bmbmdmb said:

Yes, thank you. I'm taking it to garage next time. It is too infrequent a job that mistakes can be made. Had car out today and it pulls great, topped coolant up and changed engine oil. Went for 5w40 505.01 x flow pd. I think it is made by Comma. I was going to go back to 5w30 505.01 quantum plus but a lot of folk suggest 5w30 doesn't protect as much as 5w40 (both 505.01).

Car doesn't burn oil but 5w30 always seemed too thin to me (engine seemed a little noisier)

A lot of the 5w40 oils seem to target  pump dushe (PD) engines when reading description on rear of oil container or even their brand name, eg TX pd 5w40 oil etc. Other than the 505.01 specification, I don't see 5w30 oils going out their way to state they are perfect for PD engines.

 

What are people using in their PD that is 5w40? I got the X flow for £25 delivered. The 5w40 Quantum 505.01 is discontinued now which last two oil changes used.

 

I change oil at 5k miles, less than one year.

 

 

There's a staggering amount of nonsense talked about relative viscosity, 5W30 and 5W40 are both fine to use, 5W30 will give fractionally better fuel economy and therefore a tiny reduction in emissions, but as you correctly observe as long as the additive pack is suitable for PD engines and it meets the minimum spec. VAG 505.01 then it's ideal, the idea that thicker oil somehow magically floats the shells better is a complete myth on modern engines built to such tight tolerances. It's legacy wisdom from the bad old days when engines were poorly made and you can safely ignore it.

If you're changing the oil that often then I recommend you buy the cheapest oil that meets the spec.

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