Hello! I have a weird problem. Since yesterday (when i changed battery) I cant lock my car, cant open the boot, cant use any electric windows etc etc. I scanned the car using OBDEleven and it says that it has no connection to either the driver side door control modul nor the passenger side. What could have caused this? I checked the fuse for the central locking system but that wasnt shot. Is there any other fuses I could check? Did I do something withe the cabling while reinstalling the battery? Many thanks!

I tried using a "dead" battery in between the battery swap. I didnt know it was dead then, but it quickly showed when turning the starter key. Haha. Could this have "destroyed" the control modules?

Edited 7 November, 20223 yr by andreasw

Disconnect the battery negative lead.

 

Turn the ignition on, the lights and hazard warning lights and depress the horn.

 

Reconnect the battery in one swift move.

 

Turn everything off again and retry.

51 minutes ago, MicMac said:

Disconnect the battery negative lead.

 

Turn the ignition on, the lights and hazard warning lights and depress the horn.

 

Reconnect the battery in one swift move.

 

Turn everything off again and retry.

"Soft" reset? Maybe short negative and positive cable aswell? Without the battery in ofc.

Edited 7 November, 20223 yr by andreasw

I just found this in my OBDEleven. Its been removed from Gateway Coding? How do I fix this? 😅

Edited 11 November, 20223 yr by andreasw

On 07/11/2022 at 18:10, MicMac said:

Disconnect the battery negative lead.

 

Turn the ignition on, the lights and hazard warning lights and depress the horn.

 

Reconnect the battery in one swift move.

 

Turn everything off again and retry.

I tried this today and nothing changed. I also tried what I suggested. Could the front driver side door control module also make the other 4 non communicating? Doesnt feel likely that all 4 would just die after battery swap. 

Something changed the door modules were removed from the installation list 🤣

 

I doubt that it was responsable but it was a daft thing to have been persuaded to do.

 

Using VCDS I can add or remove modules from the Gateway installation list, I did it with the Bluetooth module which I had disconnected after not being able to stop messages appearing about previous owners phones, it was then showing a non comms error code so by programming I told the vehicle that it no longer had the module.

 

I doubt that you can do it with OBD 11 although I have heard that sometimes it will do things like this when making other changes, in VCDS it is adding or removing modules from the gateway installation list and I think it is done through long coding of the Canbus Control Module (editted, it might have been Central electrics controller) but my memory may be incorrect.

 

 

Edited 11 November, 20223 yr by J.R.

Did you recently add or recode the steering wheel sensor?

 

If so then in doing so it has removed the other modules, that the sort of story that I had heard about OBD11.

 

Good luck with reinstating them, I hope you have a copy of what the long coding was before.

10 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Something changed the door modules were removed from the installation list 🤣

 

I doubt that it was responsable but it was a daft thing to have been persuaded to do.

 

Using VCDS I can add or remove modules from the Gateway installation list, I did it with the Bluetooth module which I had disconnected after not being able to stop messages appearing about previous owners phones, it was then showing a non comms error code so by programming I told the vehicle that it no longer had the module.

 

I doubt that you can do it with OBD 11 although I have heard that sometimes it will do things like this when making other changes, in VCDS it is adding or removing modules from the gateway installation list and I think it is done through long coding of the Canbus Control Module (editted, it might have been Central electrics controller) but my memory may be incorrect.

 

 

 

8 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Did you recently add or recode the steering wheel sensor?

 

If so then in doing so it has removed the other modules, that the sort of story that I had heard about OBD11.

 

Good luck with reinstating them, I hope you have a copy of what the long coding was before.

 

 

I have the option to add them back. But when I do they're just blacked out because theres no connection to it. And the symptoms was there before I checked it with OBDEleven. It will ask if I want to auto-code the gateway list and it hasnt failed before. I guess it disabled theese modules because there was no connection to them. I tried enabling them again but they stay unresponsive. 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Try this. -

 

• Turn the key BLADE in the lock of the driver door into the closing position and hold it there until all of the windows are closed
• remove the key blade
• reinsert the key blade and turn it to the closing position for about 3 seconds.

 

Edited 11 November, 20223 yr by nta16

8 minutes ago, nta16 said:

 

 

Try this. -

 

• Turn the key BLADE in the lock of the driver door into the closing position and hold it there until all of the windows are closed
• remove the key blade
• reinsert the key blade and turn it into the closing position for about 3 seconds.

 

Nothing happened.  Although all the windows were already closed.

But I noticed, when I lock with the key interior lights shuts down and the filler cap lid locks. When I open the interior lights start again and the filler cap lid unlocks. I can open the boot while holding the key on the remote. 
The lights dont work on the control panel on driver side, where you control the power windows etc etc. Does anyone know if there is a fuse for the control modules? Or is it shared with something else? Is there another place for fuses, glovebox? Inside the doors?

Edited 11 November, 20223 yr by andreasw

Don't waste your time with idiotic suggestions, you have correctly diagnosed the issue as a comms failure with the door controller modules, I would now check the drivers door bellows loom for broken or fractured wires, the twisted pair are the canbus.

 

I think the other door modules communicate with the main drivers one, perhaps by LinBus so it is plausible that the system will not see any of them.

 

The wire problem(s) could be the Canbus or the power/earth to the drivers door module.

Edited 11 November, 20223 yr by J.R.

4 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Don't waste your time with idiotic suggestions, you have correctly diagnosed the issue as a comms failure with the door controller modules, I would now check the drivers door bellows loom for broken or fractured wires, the twisted pair are the canbus.

 

I think the other door modules communicate with the main drivers one, perhaps by LinBus so it is plausible that the system will not see any of them.

I had a little sneek peek, I removed the rubber from the chassis of the car and checked the cable at the connectors. I have three connectors there. Everything looked fine the first few cms. Next step is to remove the inner door trim and see if I have any voltage to the unit. And check with my multimeter if I have continuity through the cables. 

I think its so strange that it only stopped working after I was fiddling with the battery. Never had problems with this before. The first battery I changed to might have had a little bit higher voltage (13ish) but it was dead, nothing happened when I turned the key, only alot of relay clicking. 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

7 minutes ago, andreasw said:

Nothing happened. 

Sorry I missed your last post, about loss of communication, so yes possibly broken wires.

 

Have a look here for fuse locations and much more, and for my sake and that of other(s), I am not saying they are where you suggest. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

 

Unintentionally I trolled my personal troll. 🤪  I am not bothered about it as it is poetic justice.   I will leave you in his normally capable hands on such subjects as this.

 

8 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Sorry I missed your last post, about loss of communication, so yes possibly broken wires.

 

Have a look here for fuse locations and much more, and for my sake and that of other(s), I am not saying they are where you suggest. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

 

Unintentionally I trolled my personal troll. 🤪  I am not bothered about it as it is poetic justice.   I will leave you in his normally capable hands on such subjects as this.

 

I think I would need some kind of a dealership manual for diagnosing these cars. The user manual doesn't even tell you how to change the headlight bulb 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

The manuals for these cars I think seem to be often written by a Germain engineering student that then has them translated to Chinese and from Chinese to English, then possibly Swedish(?).  I also found the diagram for the fuses in the Owner's Manual to be wrong for my wife's car - more German engineering excellence. 🤣

 

To be fair where trendy fashion items of the time, like headlights, were fitted that needed more doing they do say it's not DIY (I have no idea how much it is or is not, some bits on modern cars (2007 is modern to me) need the car dissembling and/or fancy bit of kit to sort out.

 

Remember when those marvellous self-levelling headlights first came out and blinded you as they approached or made you dip the rearview mirror to avoid a seizure, "why does the car behind keep flashing us".  🤣

 

Again sorry about missing your post and making a fool of myself, but every cloud has a silver lining, brought me some goo humour.

 

Battery change was most probably just a coincidence or only because of "wiring issues" already present.

 

Plenty on here seem to use OBDEleven, doing a back-up file as is before doing alterations, you could ask for advice if needed.

 

The German car marques seemed very keen to have very complicated computer systems and programs going back a while, probably for many reasons (and not just for Dieselgate :cough:) but personally I don't find them to be German engineering excellence, on three occasion now with my wife's car the "idiot" (or "idiotic" for this thread 🤣) warning messages and lights have acted for no good reason or too late, I don't trust them fully and not as far as I could (re)boot them.

 

 Hope you get sorted easily and soon, very thin wires put under stress wot could possibly go wrong. 😉  Cheers.

 

9 hours ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

The manuals for these cars I think seem to be often written by a Germain engineering student that then has them translated to Chinese and from Chinese to English, then possibly Swedish(?).  I also found the diagram for the fuses in the Owner's Manual to be wrong for my wife's car - more German engineering excellence. 🤣

 

To be fair where trendy fashion items of the time, like headlights, were fitted that needed more doing they do say it's not DIY (I have no idea how much it is or is not, some bits on modern cars (2007 is modern to me) need the car dissembling and/or fancy bit of kit to sort out.

 

Remember when those marvellous self-levelling headlights first came out and blinded you as they approached or made you dip the rearview mirror to avoid a seizure, "why does the car behind keep flashing us".  🤣

 

Again sorry about missing your post and making a fool of myself, but every cloud has a silver lining, brought me some goo humour.

 

Battery change was most probably just a coincidence or only because of "wiring issues" already present.

 

Plenty on here seem to use OBDEleven, doing a back-up file as is before doing alterations, you could ask for advice if needed.

 

The German car marques seemed very keen to have very complicated computer systems and programs going back a while, probably for many reasons (and not just for Dieselgate :cough:) but personally I don't find them to be German engineering excellence, on three occasion now with my wife's car the "idiot" (or "idiotic" for this thread 🤣) warning messages and lights have acted for no good reason or too late, I don't trust them fully and not as far as I could (re)boot them.

 

 Hope you get sorted easily and soon, very thin wires put under stress wot could possibly go wrong. 😉  Cheers.

 

 

Yeah tell me about it. For older cars everything was described in the user manual. Nowadays they dont wanna tell you what oil to put in even. I like maintaining my own cars, I have some bad experience from leaving it to a mechanic shop. Too bad I started this hobby as an adult (20+). It would be better to have started when I was younger, when the learning curve was exponential... You dont have to say sorry, I read that tip of yours somewhere else a few days ago. I think forums are awesome! Alot of the time someone else has had the exact same problem, so you can spread the knowledge and help someone else. 
Its especially good for us non-mechanics  

Yeah I guess its plausible. Maybe a power "surge" melted the last copper strand that was attaching the cable or something...

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

5 minutes ago, andreasw said:

Yeah tell me about it. For older cars everything was described in the user manual. Nowadays they dont wanna tell you what oil to put in even.

Only recently I sold my 1973 car after 30+ years of using "classics" (over-priced, over-valued cars) so I'm used to more detailed and straight forward Driver's Handbooks.

 

 

9 minutes ago, andreasw said:

I like maintaining my own cars, I have some bad experience from leaving it to a mechanic shop.

I l-o-a-t-h-e-d doing anything other than driving my cars but I had so many bad experiences with people in the motor trade that even an idiot like I could sometimes do a better job and I have next to no mechanical aptitude and not the best attitude towards doing the work.  Unfortunately things don't seem to be getting better with, some of, the people in the motor trade and with the modern cars.

 

 

17 minutes ago, andreasw said:

I read that tip of yours somewhere else a few days ago.

I just took it from the Owner's Manual ! 😄  I check but basically it's the same for my wife's model.  With my wife's previous car, a new GM (Vauxhall) unfortunately, with folding tin-top I found other owners were paying Dealerships and auto-electricians for very simple  problems with the folding hood and remote keys that could very often be solved by reading the Owner's Manual and following the remote fob synchronisation, for hood as well because that relied on the windows being in sync, and getting the hood back in sync.  It was a 2008 GM Vauxhall so not the over-complicated VW computer programs (and just pre-Dieselgate cheating) but with the roof the battery "soft reset" might also be needed or useful.  Even now some think there's more to changing, or charging, the car's battery than often there is, certainly with the Skoda model Owner's Manuals I've looked at so far, old or new higher level Mercs or BMWs are a different matter perhaps.

 

 

38 minutes ago, andreasw said:

Yeah I guess its plausible. Maybe a power "surge" melted the last copper strand that was attaching the cable or something...

With cars I have learn to discount nothing until you've treble checked it's not that but I think it might just be a coincidence, I could well be wrong of course as I often am.

 

I just thought of something, I also have a 3rd party car alarm installed by some previous owner. I have always hated it, and maybe it makes my problem worse now. Because its connected to central locking etc etc. 

Edit: Nice, its spliced in on the can-bus 😑

Edited 12 November, 20223 yr by andreasw

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

24 minutes ago, andreasw said:

and maybe it makes my problem worse now. Because its connected to central locking etc etc. 

AFAIK by the law of averages it's very likely.

 

Never thought of aftermarket alarm, I'm more used to cars without alarms.

 

Disconnect it from the Can high and low lines and see if the comms are re-established.

2 hours ago, J.R. said:

Disconnect it from the Can high and low lines and see if the comms are re-established.

Will do tomorrow. I've seen a few cables that's been cut, for the alarm install. While im trying to fix this problem maybe it would be a good idea to disconnect the alarm altogether. 

I would say so, those guys usually butcher a wiring loom which more often than not leads to problems in the future, at the very least you have a circuit board of unknown provenance and reliability connected into the cars central nervous system which is undesirable.

Should I laugh or cry? 😅

Looks about right!!!

 

Amazing how they have consistent (lack of) quality standards across different countries!

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

You're laughing with that, lucky to have such a *professional install, bare wires terminated too you lucky lucky  . . . 

 

* professional bricklayer

 

 

Edited 13 November, 20223 yr by nta16
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