Both front door control units not responding after battery change (Octavia - 07)

[andreasw]

17 hours ago, J.R. said:

Looks about right!!!

 

Amazing how they have consistent (lack of) quality standards across different countries!

To their defense, they did at least solder all cables. But they've cut wrong cables and had to fix it multiple times. I knew there was something dodgy with this alarm 😅 Buuuut, I don't know if it affects what I'm trying to solve. I've removed the cables from what I think are the can high and low. 

 

No difference. It feels like it's a hidden fuse or something I can't find. I'll see if I can find the wire schematics and try to see if I get power to the module. 

[nta16]

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

I expect you have already done so but also for the sake of future readers, have you used a bi-directional scan tool to see if the locks activate individually and perhaps narrow down any issues in the communications and see if there are any other stored or historical codes that might give a clue to past happenings?

 

[andreasw]

11 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

I expect you have already done so but also for the sake of future readers, have you used a bi-directional scan tool to see if the locks activate individually and perhaps narrow down any issues in the communications and see if there are any other stored or historical codes that might give a clue to past happenings?

 

Im using a OBDEleven. It's been working very good during the time I've had it. I have no communication with the modules. Can't access them with any reader. I do have another reader. Maybe I'll give it a try to see if I can find anything else. 

[andreasw]

Good News everyone! 

The driver door and the rear left door is now working. And I found wiring diagram for the whole vehicle for free. I can post that as a PDF if you want. 

Well, I looked at the diagram and saw that FUSE 23 powers the left and right door control module. I look in the fusebox and what do I see? Theres no Fuse! I dont know If I have pulled this before while I was searching for the fault, but I cant remember if I did. All I can remember is I was focusing on fuse Nr12. Oh well, so I plug in a new fuse and try it out. It works! Dont know if its because I pulled the alarm cables or something else. I took the whole door cover off on the inside, took the cables out that connects through the chassis to the door, inspected them but didnt see any damage.

Or, the alarm was installed in such a way that it supplied power to the doors. Oh well, Im happy that I now have everything working on the left side. Right side is still completely dead, and front doors share fuses with each other, same with the rear doors. So Its not a fuse problem at least. Now its time to check if the cables are okay inbetween the chassis and the doors on the right side. But first Ill swap my battery for a better one. Ill cross my fingers the same thing doesnt happen again 😛

 

Also, The OBDEleven was able to re-add all the door modules. Now I can contact front driver module, and rear left door module.


The 4000 pages of wiring diagrams is 40MB Big. Is there any moderator I can send it to? So it can be stickied?

Edited 14 November, 2022 by andreasw

[nta16]

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Good new, progress.

 

58 minutes ago, andreasw said:

But first Ill swap my battery for a better one.

If it's a battery you already have then do remember to check and fully charge it as required, a good number of times I've been told "it's a good battery" and "it's charged" and they weren't.

 

 

58 minutes ago, andreasw said:

Is there any moderator I can send it to? So it can be stickied?

It might be best posted elsewhere but I have 'Report'(ed) your post so that a moderator sees it.

 

Edited 14 November, 2022 by nta16
spelling

[Guest]

@andreasw

 

That's a kind thought but I expect copyright prohibitions won't allow sharing of the file.

Edited 14 November, 2022 by MicMac

[john999boy]

1 hour ago, andreasw said:

The 4000 pages of wiring diagrams is 40MB Big. Is there any moderator I can send it to? So it can be stickied?

 Could it be linked to instead?

[andreasw]

20 minutes ago, MicMac said:

@andreasw

 

That's a kind thought but I expect copyright prohibitions won't allow sharing of the file.

I got it from a website, didnt state anything about not sharing. 

10 minutes ago, john999boy said:

 Could it be linked to instead?

Ofcourse, I can give you the website in PM if you want. Awaiting answer from MicMac.

[Guest]

@andreasw

 

I didn't want you getting into bother here but if john999boy gives his blessing you are good to go.

[john999boy]

35 minutes ago, MicMac said:

@andreasw

 

I didn't want you getting into bother here but if john999boy gives his blessing you are good to go.

If you’re sure about copyright then go ahead.

You could of course use the ‘Spoiler’ feature (the eye icon) if necessary. 👍

[andreasw]

Hmm, now I've changed to a good battery. Now all modules is unresponsive again... I hate electric problems 🙄

[Guest]

Have you started and driven the car after changing the battery?

[nta16]

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

30 minutes ago, andreasw said:

Hmm, now I've changed to a good battery. Now all modules is unresponsive again... I hate electric problems 🙄

Have you put your OBDEleven on again (which "all modules are unresponsive again")?

 

Once things are back can you check how good your good battery is with the OBDEleven too?

 

Edited 14 November, 2022 by nta16

[andreasw]

1 hour ago, MicMac said:

Have you started and driven the car after changing the battery?

No I have not. I found a polish forum, a guy with same problem as me. He got advices saying to leave the battery disconnected for a long period, min 30 min. Everything started to work after disconnecting for 3 hours and then plugging it in. 

 

They also wrote about the convenience module and that it might be connected with it. 

 

I'll try the easy thing tomorrow. Leaving it disconnected for a few hours

53 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Have you put your OBDEleven on again (which "all modules are unresponsive again")?

 

Once things are back can you check how good your good battery is with the OBDEleven too?

 

Yeah none of the door modules can be communicated with. I think I can only see voltage

[Guest]

The reason I as is that the systems may not operate as expected until the car has been started and driven.

 

Previously I explained how to disconnect the battery and deplete any residual charge that could be retaining corrupt data settings.

[J.R.]

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[nta16]

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

10 hours ago, andreasw said:

Yeah none of the door modules can be communicated with. I think I can only see voltage

Yeah, difficult to apply the normal logic to this as you are fighting against VW computer programing and PO (previous owners) wiring and probably the later is the worse for you but (to me) it is best still to start again at the beginning and go through step by step.  At least now you have more info on what is on your car and the wiring diagram so you may be able to see how much it varies from factory set up.

 

With electrics if something is intermittent you can think of poor wiring or connections or faulty item by the computer programs add another layer of complexity - or anger and misery as I see it. 😁

 

Keep your chin up old boy, toodle pip, until the next installment.

 

[andreasw]

13 hours ago, MicMac said:

The reason I as is that the systems may not operate as expected until the car has been started and driven.

 

Previously I explained how to disconnect the battery and deplete any residual charge that could be retaining corrupt data settings.

5 hours after disconnecting the battery i now connected it and the car is mended fully. You were on the right track right from the start 👌

 

3 hours ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Yeah, difficult to apply the normal logic to this as you are fighting against VW computer programing and PO (previous owners) wiring and probably the later is the worse for you but (to me) it is best still to start again at the beginning and go through step by step.  At least now you have more info on what is on your car and the wiring diagram so you may be able to see how much it varies from factory set up.

 

With electrics if something is intermittent you can think of poor wiring or connections or faulty item by the computer programs add another layer of complexity - or anger and misery as I see it. 😁

 

Keep your chin up old boy, toodle pip, until the next installment.

 

Hehe, the circumstances around this whole fault was pointing to some computer fault in my mind. Or that I shot a fuse somewhere. Its mended itself when battery was disconnected for 5 hours  

[nta16]

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

33 minutes ago, andreasw said:

Its mended itself when battery was disconnected for 5 hours  

Well time will tell - but - I am with MicMac as a big fan of the battery disconnect and 'discharge', I favour press and hold brake pedal with ignition on so that the brake lights would light if the battery was not disconnected, as this is a quick, easy and free thing to try and can work well particularly on older cars.  However some on here at the very least deride this idea, as you have seen, and my personal troll seems to get actually angry, so as to not bog the thread down with the usual 'debate' against me and that idea and as MicMac had already put it I left it.  I did not put a 'Like' against his post so as not to draw my personal troll towards MicMac, but he still got derided so I might as well now. 😄

 

The battery disconnect and 'discharge' often is not necessary if you have a scan tool but the old turn-it-off-and-on-again often sorts out all sorts of computers and their brain-farts and these, VW particularly, car computer programs are very complex, over-complicated, intertwined and over-intrusive so who knows what small unrelated issue effects what else.

 

While the battery was disconnected I am also a big believer in fully charging the battery (as appropriate to car) particularly with these VW computer programs as all sorts of unexpected warnings, error codes and issues can come from the car battery being low even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough.

 

I did wonder about how you were doing the battery changes, always follow the routine in the Owner's Manual. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

 

Car battery recharging (often rather than premature replacement) is a hobbyhorse of mine and my personal troll thought I was making out I was some sort of expert and was too authoritative in my posts (generally) hence my post prescript (and signature note if you can see that) as I never intended to give the impression I was any sort of expert in anything.

 

If you read all that sorry but sometimes it is good to clear your chest and no animals were harmed in the making of this post.  🤣

 

Be good to see if you report back everything is still fine after a week of use.  Driving can also help with clearing some issues (not say so with this).

 

Good luck.

 

[Warrior193]

On 13/11/2022 at 18:25, andreasw said:

Should I laugh or cry? 😅

I vote cry.

[andreasw]

Still working 🤘