Can't I just replace a battery?

[unionfan]

Hi. I've been reading through the forum posts on this topic and am stunned that it looks like I can't just replace an old battery with a new one without having to re-programme some on-board computer gufff?!?  Can anyone confirm for me please whether it's true that a lay person like me can no longer just change a damn battery?

Thanks very much - and I'm starting to hate all modern cars given our recent water pump issues too 😉

UF

[Dooge]

48 minutes ago, unionfan said:

Hi. I've been reading through the forum posts on this topic and am stunned that it looks like I can't just replace an old battery with a new one without having to re-programme some on-board computer gufff?!?  Can anyone confirm for me please whether it's true that a lay person like me can no longer just change a damn battery?

Thanks very much - and I'm starting to hate all modern cars given our recent water pump issues too 😉

UF

 

This seems to be an area of conjecture. Lots say because the car smart charges the battery rather than throwing a constant amount of power back in and battery architecture is different to older batteries the car has to be coded so that it knows a new battery is in place. 

[stevo1]

1 hour ago, unionfan said:

Hi. I've been reading through the forum posts on this topic and am stunned that it looks like I can't just replace an old battery with a new one without having to re-programme some on-board computer gufff?!?  Can anyone confirm for me please whether it's true that a lay person like me can no longer just change a damn battery?

Thanks very much - and I'm starting to hate all modern cars given our recent water pump issues too 😉

UF

I also require a replacement battery ! I think there is way of keeping power to the car whilst replacing, but not sure how to go about it yet. Perhaps some helpful person will give us a heads up ? Tia

 

 

Edited 5 December, 2022 by stevo1

[Vahids]

16 minutes ago, stevo1 said:

I think there is way of keeping power to the car whilst replacing, but not sure how to go about it yet.

I don't think keep the car running during the replacement would make any difference apart from getting some light warnings if the cars gets disconnected during the battery replacement (and those warnings disappear almost immediately after starting the engine and travel a few meters). Keep the car running does not help with needing the coding for the new battery.

[stevo1]

2 minutes ago, Vahids said:

I don't think keep the car running during the replacement would make any difference apart from getting some light warnings if the cars gets disconnected during the battery replacement (and those warnings disappear almost immediately after starting the engine and travel a few meters). Keep the car running does not help with needing the coding for the new battery.

Thanks but I didn't mean keep the car running ! Just keep 12v to the car's management system !

[varooom]

Some will plug in a device into the cigarette lighter to keep the memory 'alive'

If you don't do this, then you will just need to let the car 'relearn' some basic settings like windows one-touch closing, memory seats if fitted... basically nothing that is too hard to fix in a few minutes.

 

If you swap battery without any plug in support, like me... then you will have a dash like an Xmas tree until you turn steering wheel full lock to the left/right (and you may need to drive 100m+)

The car will store no end of fault codes because of the lack of power, but nothing that will keep a warning on the dash permanently (unless it was already there)

So you can plug in a diagnostic tool to clear the faults, but as mentioned you won't visibly see them after swap.

[inspectorman]

If changing from a dying battery to one of the same type and Ah, there will be no perceptible impact on the cars electronics. The battery management system will work out that the (new) battery responds to charge slightly differently and will alter the charge parameters to suit over a period of time. There is no absolute necessity to recode the battery.

 

On the other hand, if changing battery technology (from EFB to AGM, say) or putting in a battery with significantly different Ah capacity, then coding in the battery is advised. There is a map of VCDS users and someone local will be happy to help for a few beer tokens.

[nta16]

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

@unionfan, @stevo 1, look at your Owner's Manuals for information on what might need resetting when a battery is disconnected and reconnected or changed as it's usually a lot less than many think and even not all of the items listed may need to be reset.

 

I don't know how low the battery would have to be to have varooom's Xmas illuminations and need to turn the steering full lock both ways but if there are a lot of warning lights and messages then turn the steering full lock each way costs nothing, is easy, no dirty hands and can be done from the comfort of inside the car so I would do it at the slightest flicker of a warning light or message.

 

Many can extend the life of the car battery and save hassles the car's computer can give from having the battery in low charge by the appropriate use of a suitable battery charger as sometimes just driving the car will not sufficiently charge the battery.

  

Edited 5 December, 2022 by nta16

[unionfan]

Thanks all for the help and advice. Think I'm going to find a battery with exactly the same serial numbers and descriptions etc as the one currently in the car and then swap it out myself in a few minutes.  I can always call the mechanic with his diagnostic gadget to reset everything if it all goes wrong I suppose 🙂

Cheers and have a great week everyone

UF

[varooom]

12 minutes ago, unionfan said:

Thanks all for the help and advice. Think I'm going to find a battery with exactly the same serial numbers and descriptions etc as the one currently in the car and then swap it out myself in a few minutes.  I can always call the mechanic with his diagnostic gadget to reset everything if it all goes wrong I suppose 🙂

Cheers and have a great week everyone

UF

Take a picture of the whole top of the battery if you can, I can check what if any changes have been made and point you at suitable replacement.

[unionfan]

Hi @varooom and thanks. Here's the picture I just took. Looks like this might be readily available as its a Varta 🙂

[varooom]

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

I don't know how low the battery would have to be to have varooom's Xmas illuminations and need to turn the steering full lock both ways but if there are a lot of warning lights and messages then turn the steering full lock each way costs nothing, is easy, no dirty hands and can be done from the comfort of inside the car so I would do it at the slightest flicker of a warning light or message.

My common reference to the Xmas tree effect is more for when you change the battery and do not have anything plugged into the cigarette lighter.

What little capacitance that remains in the circuits when you disconnect the negative clamp, allows the car to store fault code, or when you reconnect it.

 

Here is an example of some of the faults that will be stored during this process

Address 01: Engine (J623-DBKA)       Labels:. 04L-907-309-V1.clb
   Part No SW: 04L 906 026 CA    HW: 04L 907 309 R
   Component: R4 1.6l TDI   H21 3126  
   Revision: B5H21---    CVN: B408C008
   Coding: 01190032032501094000
   Shop #: WSC 00046 000 00000
   ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM16TDI01104L906026CA 004005
   ROD: EV_ECM16TDI01104L906026CA_004_SK37.rod
   VCID: 6BD1B89282B170D586-803E
   VINID: 91D49B5C77950D70000C50C31858D48C91

2 Faults Found:
17158 - Databus 
          U1123 00 [039] - Received Error Message
          Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00000001
                    Fault Priority: 6
                    Fault Frequency: 2
                    Mileage: 234062 km
                    Date: 2022.09.24
                    Time: 13:30:36

                    Engine RPM: 0.00 /min
                    Normed load value: 0.0 %
                    Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
                    Coolant temperature: 12 °C
                    Intake air temperature: 13 °C
                    Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar
                    Voltage terminal 30: 12.020 V
                    Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
                    Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-Bits 0-7: 0
                    Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-Bits 0-7: 0
                    Drivetrain coordinator: brake fault status-Bits 0-7: 4
                    Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-Bits 0-7: 0
                    Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-Bits 0-7: 0
                    Acceleration: 0.000 m/s²

7150 - Implausible Data Received from Steering Angle Sensor Module (G85) 
          U0428 00 [039] - -
          Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00000001
                    Fault Priority: 6
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Mileage: 234062 km
                    Date: 2000.00.00
                    Time: 00:00:00

                    Engine RPM: 0.00 /min
                    Normed load value: 0.0 %
                    Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
                    Coolant temperature: 12 °C
                    Intake air temperature: 13 °C
                    Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar
                    Voltage terminal 30: 11.940 V
                    Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
                    CAN status - engine control module-Bits 0-7: 0
                    Cruise Control System (CCS): status-Bits 0-7: 2

Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104)       Labels: 5Q0-907-379-ESP-V1.clb
   Part No SW: 3Q0 907 379 T    HW: 3Q0 907 379 C
   Component: ESC           H32 0393  
   Revision: 00000000    Serial number: 61625000001870
   Coding: 1C078A9124230971007A060341C9243851249000608224F20043F072C002
   Shop #: WSC 73430 031 00063
   ASAM Dataset: EV_Brake1UDSContiMK100ESP 034033
   ROD: EV_Brake1UDSContiMK100ESP_034_VW37.rod
   VCID: 4B911812E2F190D5E6-801E

3 Faults Found:
0297 - Steering angle sensor 
          B1168 16 [137] - Voltage Too Low
          MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00000001
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 2
                    Reset counter: 137
                    Mileage: 234062 km
                    Date: 2022.09.24
                    Time: 13:30:36

16412 - Display for Tire Pressure Monitoring 
          C1146 02 [137] - Signal Failure
          MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00000001
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 137
                    Mileage: 234062 km
                    Date: 2022.09.24
                    Time: 13:31:50

16413 - Display for Tire Pressure Monitoring 
          C1146 02 [137] - Signal Failure
          MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00000001
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 137
                    Mileage: 234062 km
                    Date: 2022.09.24
                    Time: 13:31:50

 

The biggest warning comes from the ABS for the steering angle sensor, that will light up a steering wheel icon in red, and probably an ABS light in yellow (going on memory here)

The lock-to-lock turn of the wheel allows you to recalibrate the steering sensor angles, making it happy and should clear the fault from the dashboard.

 

TPMS could be another yellow warning, that depending on what is fitted to the car, you maybe need a short drive as mentioned around 100m, or to check pressures and push the TPMS button down to tell if you have checked pressures.

 

Nearly always the dashboard will be clear, but these faults will still be stored unless you have diagnostic tool to clear.

[varooom]

9 minutes ago, unionfan said:

Hi @varooom and thanks. Here's the picture I just took. Looks like this might be readily available as its a Varta 🙂

The part number of 7P0 915 105 is replaced by 000 915 105CC which is same size, AGM and has a new Ah rating of 70Ah

 

It is the same that I have fitted now to my own car (before and after!)

I stuck with the Varta, as when you use parts program, the 000 915 105CC is Varta branded.

 

Some additional reading should you have access to VCDS via someone.

 

[unionfan]

Thanks so much for the assist.  Glad to hear that this model will work fine in our car

UF

🙂

[nta16]

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

That looks like our old favourite Varta E39 Silver Dynamic AGM 570 901 076 (096 AGM) (why the motor trade has to have so many different codes for the same item is beyond me). - (I realise you are in France link is for info and more part numbers, pdf in link and attached). - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/e39/

 

ETA: Vatra link. -https://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/products/varta-silver-dynamic-agm/570-901-076 

 

Note it's rate at 70ah, what odds that make to 68ah and the over-complicated VW computer program varooom would know better than I  (varoom I will reply to your post after "dinner").

 

E39-Varta.pdf

Edited 5 December, 2022 by nta16
ETA:

[stevo1]

http://IMG_20221205_163750465.jpg?photob

Spoiler

 

34 minutes ago, unionfan said:

Hi @varooom and thanks. Here's the picture I just took. Looks like this might be readily available as its a Varta 🙂

Mine is  a different make.

[varooom]

1 minute ago, stevo1 said:

http://IMG_20221205_163750465.jpg?photob

  Reveal hidden contents

 

Mine is  a different make.

Post a picture of yours, or type in the VAG code on top.

 

Picture is ideal if you can

[stevo1]

https://www.photobox.co.uk/my/photo/full?photo_id=505114452643

Hope this helps. 

[varooom]

3 minutes ago, stevo1 said:

https://www.photobox.co.uk/my/photo/full?photo_id=505114452643

Hope this helps. 

Just takes me to the main site, not the picture

[stevo1]

Just now, varooom said:

Just takes me to the main site, not the picture

Sorry struggling to post pic's 🤷🤦😄

[varooom]

3 minutes ago, stevo1 said:

Sorry struggling to post pic's 🤷🤦😄

This will look weird, on mobile you can press paperclip/add file

 

On desktop the buttons should be the same.

 

[stevo1]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wq1DmJ61mkGfiz5ZA

[stevo1]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PLMAPxJmKUMp7Jgs5

[J.R.]

3 hours ago, Vahids said:

I don't think keep the car running during the replacement would make any difference apart from getting some light warnings if the cars gets disconnected during the battery replacement (and those warnings disappear almost immediately after starting the engine and travel a few meters).

 

Whatever you do do not follow this perhaps well meaning but very bad advice.

 

You risk damaging the alternator regulator, at worst frying the ECU or other electronic modules.

 

And should you decide to ignore that warning do not connect the new battery with reversed polarity

[varooom]

1 minute ago, stevo1 said:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PLMAPxJmKUMp7Jgs5

Thanks, I presume you wish to stick with the same battery type, EFB?

 

I will reply shortly with part's you can use.