Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

ETA: posted too late for varooom, I'm too slow, but the photo for others.

 

In portrait, you naughty, naughty boy. 😄  In landscape you get more info because it would also show the the other battery terminal post and fittings that can sometimes give additional information - but should be required here

Edited 5 December, 20223 yr by nta16

21 minutes ago, varooom said:

Thanks, I presume you wish to stick with the same battery type, EFB?

 

I will reply shortly with part's you can use.

Thanks varooom. Yes I think so, maybe a bit simpler. Appreciate your help 👍

Edited 5 December, 20223 yr by stevo1

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

1 hour ago, varooom said:

My common reference to the Xmas tree effect is more for when you change the battery and do not have anything plugged into the cigarette lighter.

What little capacitance that remains in the circuits when you disconnect the negative clamp, allows the car to store fault code, or when you reconnect it.

 

Here is an example of some of the faults that will be stored during this process

Sorry I certainly didn't want to imply I didn't believe you and really I should have thought that many would get their car battery very low before changing or for some realising how low the battery has got.  Ties in with my warnings about the computers possibly playing up and giving, or not giving warnings even though the battery starts the car and the lights still seeming bright enough, possibly before this point though.

 

Again this is why I favour using a battery charger to fully charge the battery as much as possible and preferably before the battery gets too low and certainly before it gets beyond rescue or convenient change rather than breakdowns and forced changed (appropriate or not).

 

I now favour, after battery disconnect, turn the ignition on and press and hold down brake pedal as I always think computers need a bloody good booting and can actually benefit from it on many occasions.  😁  Sorry, I meant, a turn off 'n' on agen, not violence of any sort, tempting though it might be towards computers for some of us.

 

The computer programs be intertwined (for the sake of a description) will have one thing leading on to another when the computers pick up something, or think they have sometimes so I'm totally with you and certainly agree that it's best to clear all error codes, at every opportunity, if its serious, real, it'll return soon enough anyway.

 

I think we generally sign off the same song sheet but your voice is much sweeter, refined and sophisticated than mine.

 

One thing I didn't quite follow, did you mean drive 100 miles or metres?

 

Cheers.

 

7 minutes ago, stevo1 said:

Thanks varooom. Yes I think so, maybe a bit simpler. Appreciate your help 👍

You have the 027EFB Size as seen here

You can see at the bottom of the image, that it matches your OEM number 1S0 915 105A

 

 

Tanya is one of the cheapest and fastest suppliers in the UK, and they pack those batteries very well.

Varta is a common OEM supplied from factory, and Bosch are made in the same factory.

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/027-efb/

 

You can input your Reg to filter if you like, and be sure to measure up existing fitted battery to make sure my work is accurate before you purchase.

@nta16 I was more referring to the actual process of changing a battery as it can be scary if you have not done it, you know the brown trouser moment when your dash lights up 'like an Xmas tree' I have not mentioned it because I thought you didn't believe me.

 

On a separate note, I dare say that when a battery is nearing the end of it's life, and people don't notice the warning signs, they will maybe start seeing errors that you often describe as the multiple control units spit their dummy out, power steering is a hungry beast, and a dying battery might not quite supply enough power and steering stutters and/or puts on a warning lamp.

 

I replaced my battery before it actually died, and 096AGM with over 7 years of use, for me it was noticing the stop/start off time was very short lived, as the SOC in battery was poor.

I preferred to replace it rather than get stranded miles away from home.

 

 

100m was metres, as I was referring to a short journey 😉 Maybe metres has a capital 100M, but I think it has a small 100m iirc.

26 minutes ago, varooom said:

You have the 027EFB Size as seen here

You can see at the bottom of the image, that it matches your OEM number 1S0 915 105A

 

 

Tanya is one of the cheapest and fastest suppliers in the UK, and they pack those batteries very well.

Varta is a common OEM supplied from factory, and Bosch are made in the same factory.

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/027-efb/

 

You can input your Reg to filter if you like, and be sure to measure up existing fitted battery to make sure my work is accurate before you purchase.

Magic thanks, would I be Ok to change like for like without issues, or should I have someone on hand with vcds ? 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

16 hours ago, varooom said:

I was more referring to the actual process of changing a battery as it can be scary if you have not done it, you know the brown trouser moment when your dash lights up 'like an Xmas tree' I have not mentioned it because I thought you didn't believe me.

I'd believe you, I would have a mild panic first and think later.  I still jump at sparks, when I was very young I got an electric shock from messing around with a radiogram (look it up) that taught me to be careful.

 

 

16 hours ago, varooom said:

I preferred to replace it rather than get stranded miles away from home.

That is always my attitude, I loathed doing anything on my cars I don't need to and have had enough minor roadside repairs and breakdown call outs and recoveries to last me three lifetimes having owned old British/English cars for decades.  The car batteries have always been more important that most drivers realise but it's even more so the newer the modern car with VW type computer programs and car owners using the car as a battery on wheels for all the electrics they want to use, whilst the car is driven, static or parked up.

 

I can't stand a car that won't at least start so I like the car battery to be in reasonable condition and with the least work and hassle from me so I like a good battery from the start as that makes the rest easier.  I broke my own rule of not changing the car battery before required with my wife's car as she hasn't the time or patience for it not always being available at anytime and I changed the battery quite early to save me any hassle of any sort, plus my wife has been with me on many of those three lifetimes of minor roadside repairs and breakdown call outs and recoveries.

 

I thought you meant 100 metres but better to check than assume.

 

Edited 6 December, 20223 yr by nta16
spelling

51 minutes ago, stevo1 said:

Magic thanks, would I be Ok to change like for like without issues, or should I have someone on hand with vcds ? 

You can take a read here of the official process here...

too long; didn't read: In short, if you are replacing an EFB with an EFB or AGM with AGM of very similar Ah capacity, then no you should get away without needing diagnostic tool.

If you change from one battery type to another, then absolutely get it adapted!

 

EDIT: Better add the obvious warning here, even if I am teaching you to suck eggs.

Always remove the negative clamp from from the battery terminal first, then positive after.

 

Refitting is the reverse, Positive goes on first, then negative, be brave, the bugger will spark and you may brick it (even though I know it is coming, I hate it)

 

This is AFAIK the correct way, or at least how I do it, happily to be corrected.

I make sure to keep the driver door open, or window down just in case, and make sure key is in pocket and not possibly going to be locked inside the car.

Edited 5 December, 20223 yr by varooom

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

1 hour ago, stevo1 said:

would I be Ok to change like for like without issues, or should I have someone on hand with vcds ?

There's 1ah more on the new battery, I don't think it'd make any odds particularly if you had the battery 'coded' in a bit later or probably not at all.

 

VCDS is one system but there are others and other tools capable of doing battery 'coding'.

 

If you are going to have the battery 'coded' at point of installation and you're going to keep the car for a good number of years more then you might want to look at installing an AGM battery instead, remember the new battery unlike the factory battery isn't going into a new car with new systems so won't last as long with the same use as the previous battery. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/027-agm/

 

Edited 5 December, 20223 yr by nta16
spelling

22 minutes ago, varooom said:

Better add the obvious warning here, even if I am teaching you to suck eggs.

Always remove the negative clamp from from the battery terminal first, then positive after.

 

Refitting is the reverse, Positive goes on first, then negative, be brave, the bugger will spark and you may brick it (even though I know it is coming, I hate it)

 

This is AFAIK the correct way, or at least how I do it, happily to be corrected.

 

What is your rationale for doing it in that, or indeed any order?

 

I completely agree with the comment regarding the sparking.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

41 minutes ago, varooom said:

This is AFAIK the correct way, or at least how I do it, happily to be corrected.

That's what is in the Owner's Manual.

 

 

41 minutes ago, varooom said:

I make sure to keep the driver door open, or window down just in case,

Window is better fully closed as they may need a reset but it's not vital, door being open is more electric to the spark so again better closed but not vital and if it eases your mind then do one or both.

 

 

41 minutes ago, varooom said:

and make sure key is in pocket and not possibly going to be locked inside the car.

Always a good idea to make sure you or nobody else or the keys are locked in the car.

 

I often make the mistake of offering too much information so that it can then be open to more question or misunderstanding, as I have here, which is why referring to the instructions (owner's Manual, instruction notes or booklets) is often better, if anyone is too lazy or Billy-Big-B*ll*cks to read instructions tough on them.

 

Link for Owner's Manuals, so no excuses. 😄 - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

 

Edited 5 December, 20223 yr by nta16
ETA: link to Owners Manual

19 minutes ago, J.R. said:

What is your rationale for doing it in that, or indeed any order?

 

I completely agree with the comment regarding the sparking.

It was something I was taught, and read somewhere, took me a while to find the source.

 

 

 

This is from VW SSP504 Vehicle Batteries

 

Replacing the battery

 

The procedure used to replace the battery differs according to vehicle type, equipment level, and market. For example, the battery may be installed in either the engine compartment or the luggage compartment. Independent of this, there are a number of important basic rules which must be adhered to when replacing a battery.

 

Removing the battery
• Unlock the vehicle.
• Switch off all electrical consumers.
• Switch off ignition.
• Open the battery heat shield.
• Undo the clamp connection for the negative battery terminal clamp and pull off the earth cable battery clamp.
• Undo the clamp connection for the positive battery terminal clamp and pull off the positive cable battery clamp.
• Unscrew the securing bolts and remove the clamping plate or the mounting bar.
• To prevent a voltage drop in the vehicle electrical system, the vehicle voltage should be maintained by means of a backup power supply, as described on page 46.
• When installing the battery outside the engine compartment, pay particular attention to the gas venting hose.

18 minutes ago, J.R. said:

 

What is your rationale for doing it in that, or indeed any order?

 

I completely agree with the comment regarding the sparking.

When I was an apprentice mechanic we were taught to always disconnect earth lead first and reconnect it last. The rationale was that it reduced the risk of shorting out the positive terminal directly to earth through your spanner either accidentally or carelessly. It is possible to weld a spanner to a decent bare metal earth like an engine and then explode the battery.

 

Thanks for that Classic, I knew that I had read something like that before regarding a spanner but could not recall the details.

 

It's interesting and revealing that you are the only one aside from myself to have wanted to know the "why" rather than blindly accept what they have read or been told.

 

 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

1 hour ago, classic said:

or carelessly. It is possible to weld a spanner to a decent bare metal earth like an engine and then explode the battery.

Or painted, hence the yellow and green house electric insulation tape on my 4 inch adjustable spanner to remind me to be less careless at battery terminals (not related to a Skoda).

 

Edited 5 December, 20223 yr by nta16
spelling (hose?)

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

1 hour ago, classic said:

When I was an apprentice mechanic we were taught to always disconnect earth lead first and reconnect it last.

You sound like you might be well named, perhaps yourself well in to no road tax and MoT.  🙂

 

  

8 hours ago, stevo1 said:

I also require a replacement battery ! I think there is way of keeping power to the car whilst replacing, but not sure how to go about it yet. Perhaps some helpful person will give us a heads up ? Tia

 

 

 

When my local independent garage swapped my battery they clipped on a battery pack with jump lead clips to the battery leads before they swapped the battery. No warnings on resetting things afterwards.

 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

12 hours ago, bigjohn said:

When my local independent garage swapped my battery they clipped on a battery pack with jump lead clips to the battery leads before they swapped the battery. No warnings on resetting things afterwards.

They'd probably dealt with the other German marques with over complicated computer systems and programs so didn't want to take any chances, lose a favorite radio station and some customers are in great distress.  Plenty of devices about and for DIY use if they're available and wanted why not, I'd not bother but that's my choice.

 

Edited 6 December, 20223 yr by nta16
spelling

12 hours ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

They'd probably dealt with the other German marques with over complicated computer systems and programs so didn't want to take any chances, loose a favorite radio station and some customers are in great distress.  Plenty of devices about and for DIY use if they're available and wanted why not, I'd not bother but that's my choice.

 

I'm so glad you chipped in with that final comment nta16....  I was starting to thing "how the F do I get a backup power supply?"  Just to change a battery.... jeez. 🙂

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

As I've put check out your Owner's Manual for what might need resetting.  From the list of four on my wife's 2015 Fabia only the time of day clock needed resetting and I've learnt from someone on here that with earlier models even though the book has the radio, it doesn't.

 

Unlike a neighbour's 2005 Merc where without the code we left the battery in the car to recharge it as that puts up dire warnings at the slightest issue or what the computers think is an issue.  Another neighbour had a few plug in battery memory savers and his Ring SmartCharge also has a memory saver function but I didn't bother as the car was at the beck and call of fully grown up offspring.

 

Edited 6 December, 20223 yr by nta16
spelling

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

From Octavia 2014/5 Owner's Manual' pages 199 & 200. -

 

 

Edited 6 December, 20223 yr by nta16
forgot arrow