43 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

For sure that is totally for sure for sure.

Hahaha I think so

Have you been hand sanding this with a block?

 

How are you deducing whether it is flat or warped?

 

Was the blue finish Engineers Blue or marking blue? What did you apply it for and what was your next step?

 

Forgive my questions but you have either missed out some important information or might be doing harm rather than good.

5 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Have you been hand sanding this with a block?

Yes a thick piece of glass, 400 600 800 1000 grit wet papers

 

6 minutes ago, J.R. said:

How are you deducing whether it is flat or warped?

Machinist straight edge + feelers

 

6 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Was the blue finish Engineers Blue or marking blue? What did you apply it for and what was your next step?

Just a blue marker haha, applied to check for low spots. No next step head is perfectly flat withing less than 0.04mm (my thinest feeler) and all sealing surface are perfectly clean. Next step clean the intake and exhaust  ports and start reassembly

Glass is not really flat enough but better than the hand sanding block I thought you were using.

 

Feeler guages will not show up warping but if you have two long machinists straight edges then you can sight along them, the process in carpentry uses "winding sticks"

 

Good idea with the blue marker pen, my bottle of marking blue has dried right up and the residue does not thin with white spirit.

 

Thanks for responding, I'm sure you will be fine with the flatness!

8 hours ago, J.R. said:

Glass is not really flat enough but better than the hand sanding block I thought you were using.

I first checked it with the staight edge, it was as fine as I could measure

 

8 hours ago, J.R. said:

Feeler guages will not show up warping but if you have two long machinists straight edges then you can sight along them, the process in carpentry uses "winding sticks"

if they slide under you got an issue, this is how i checked it

 

8 hours ago, J.R. said:

Good idea with the blue marker pen, my bottle of marking blue has dried right up and the residue does not thin with white spirit.

the cheapest and fastest way to get an idea

On 24/12/2022 at 15:07, Thefeliciahacker said:

Head is ready very very flat the top down photo shows the overall flatness after just 4 passes to scrub the marker down

 

 

Nice, looks that all sealing surfaces (especially around fire rings) are intact. That should hopefully work

 

Do you have any ways to measure the liner protrusion?

44 minutes ago, Papez said:

Do you have any ways to measure the liner protrusion?

I did but sadly they appear at 0.06mm just below the lower limit. 

Especially the outer ones 

But I will remeasure them 

7 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I did but sadly they appear at 0.06mm just below the lower limit. 

Especially the outer ones 

But I will remeasure them 

The part you'll probably need has a code like this: 047103147, 047103147A.

They have different thicknesses. If you can't find this part, I can send it to you.

 

You'll also need a piston ring compressor tool too.

 

I never changed the copper seals beneath the liners before but, I think you may need to remove the pistons for this job.

10 hours ago, R_Blue said:

You'll also need a piston ring compressor tool too.

 

I never changed the copper seals beneath the liners before but, I think you may need to remove the pistons for this job.

You can take them out as a unit, meaning liner with the piston and rod connected

 

10 hours ago, R_Blue said:

The part you'll probably need has a code like this: 047103147, 047103147A.

They have different thicknesses. If you can't find this part, I can send it to you.

thank you for this part I have to search and search 

19 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I did but sadly they appear at 0.06mm just below the lower limit. 

Especially the outer ones 

But I will remeasure them 

 

What's the difference between neighbouring inserts? IIRC, there was a limit, too and it is more critical than absolute value. Edges of adjacent liners should be perfectly in level.

9 hours ago, Papez said:

What's the difference between neighbouring inserts? IIRC, there was a limit, too and it is more critical than absolute value. Edges of adjacent liners should be perfectly in level

I will check that. 

 

https://youtu.be/mltc1nzpDO0

And for those who doubted! 

Head is flat! 

The worst spot is in the middle when measured diagonally and its still less than 0.04mm

 

Head is ready 

I cleaned the valves and the gasket face. 

Let's get rolling 

All hoses replaced! 

Fuel send and return 

Servo

Charcoal canister. 

Pcv system 

Fuel regulator one. 

 

As for the hoses for coolant:

few years ago when i had a problem with a T connector i used commercial hoses from local market, although i asked for hoses to have resistance in hot water i didn't pay attention to the details when i installed them, were till 102 'C only.

I didn't had instant problem but after the second test became soft and i was afraid that soon or latter the ''boom'' will come so i search deeper and bought others which can stand at least till 120 'C ,of course the whole system won't reach this number but i feel assured.

41 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

As for the hoses for coolant:

few years ago when i had a problem with a T connector i used commercial hoses from local market, although i asked for hoses to have resistance in hot water i didn't pay attention to the details when i installed them, were till 102 'C only.

I didn't had instant problem but after the second test became soft and i was afraid that soon or latter the ''boom'' will come so i search deeper and bought others which can stand at least till 120 'C ,of course the whole system won't reach this number but i feel assured.

Coolant hoses are the ones that could not be kept universal, the had to be moulded to the appropriate curves and stuff so they are ok!.
Vaccum, pcv, fuel and evap hoses are universal, but (very) high quality.
Italian made ALFAGOMMA!

Edited 31 December, 20223 yr by Thefeliciahacker

17 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Italian made ALFAGOMMA!

 

I know the brand and i have bought from them but sometimes we have to pay attention to small details (generally speaking)

Two examples from that company: https://www.sidiros.gr/irrigation/SOLHNAS-F19MM-10BAR-APODOSEOS-NEROY-MAYROS-SYNTHETIKOS-63633

is till +60 ° C only

https://www.sidiros.gr/irrigation/MANIKA-F90X102MM-18BAR-LAYFLAT-3-1-2-INTSVN-ALFAGOMMA-KAROYLIOY-20140

is till +80 ° C

 

The proper is this: https://www.toolsonline.gr/el/eukamptoi-solines/solina-zestou-nerou-gia-psygeia-autokiniton-20-mm-αlfagomma-325:v.html

is till +120 ° C

I trusted the employee of the store and then i had a problem, when i touched and felt the softness i said ''Ok the disaster is coming right now"

Thankfully i was not in a long distance trip ad the next day i replaced them (extra cost-effort-mess with spilled coolant etc.

Work is progressing 

On 01/01/2023 at 15:36, D.FYLAKTOS said:

The proper is this

That is also EPDM rubber.

All hoses which will be in contact with anti-freeze should be epdm. I made a mistake and bought non EPDM for a short piece replacement. Luckily I've learned about that important detail only days later. I removed that part from system immediately. Hose interior was looking rough sanded. Coolant eats regular rubber hoses. Tried & tested. I changed the coolant after that.

7 hours ago, R_Blue said:

That is also EPDM rubber.

All hoses which will be in contact with anti-freeze should be epdm. I made a mistake and bought non EPDM for a short piece replacement. Luckily I've learned about that important detail only days later. I removed that part from system immediately. Hose interior was looking rough sanded. Coolant eats regular rubber hoses. Tried & tested. I changed the coolant after that.

Yes yes dont worry about that I either use EPDM or silicone

21 hours ago, R_Blue said:

All hoses which will be in contact with anti-freeze should be epdm.

 

I keep in mind the temperature range first, an example:

 

Quote

Manufactured from a strong EPDM rubber, this hose provides great heat resistance which makes it suitable for many hot water applications such as in vehicle heating and cooling systems.

The tubing is a smooth black EPDM rubber resistant to many mild chemicals, glycol based anti-freeze solutions and most corrosion inhibitors. It is reinforced with a high tensile textile braiding and rated up to temperatures of 100°C.

 

https://www.thehosemaster.co.uk/l375-hot-water-car-heater-hose
 

Although it's from ALFAGOMMA and for cooling systems i would't use it for our main coolant hose.

 

 

Work is progressing,
Changed selector linkage seal, adjust linkage for minimum slop, installed new radiator,new lower hose,tested my system.
All work flawlessly

Edited 6 January, 20233 yr by Thefeliciahacker

51 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

installed new radiator

 

Remember my odest problem where the scales were upside down (at normal traffic i had the Hi and wth a/c i had the Low) as i bought it from a parts-store.

6 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Work is progressing,
Changed selector linkage seal, adjust linkage for minimum slop, installed new radiator,new lower hose,tested my system.
All work flawlessly

/cdn-cgi/mirage/b2a6ebb5516a62a813ba256bbceb36dd8e83d541906d5a304225e76358d80b2b/1280/https://www.briskoda.net/forums/uploads/monthly_2023_01/IMG_20230106_135156.thumb.jpg.61aa9aa848e35f60f02baca26234c801.jpg

 

that radiator hose is pretty cramped there... I always wondered, why they just didn't use 1.6 rad with outlet on the left side?