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Felicia head gasket nightmare

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51 minutes ago, Papez said:

that radiator hose is pretty cramped there... I always wondered, why they just didn't use 1.6 rad with outlet on the left side?

Because this is how companies work. 

They had the 1.3 rad. 

They found its cheaper to mould that wierd ass looking hose rather than to add the bigger radiator or change the outlet position. 

Plus the oe hose did fit a bit better than the aftermarket skv one 

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2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

They found its cheaper to mould that wierd ass looking hose

 

hose and the metal pipe - incidentally in the exact shape that would be needed to connect hose to the 1.6 rad. And they also had to make new radiator anyway to fit 1.6 fan :D It just seems easier to figure out 1.6 rad connection.

 

Btw, what brand is the new rad? Some "alternatives" might have lower fin density, which could be problematic on a car with AC.

Edited by Papez

10 minutes ago, Papez said:

Btw, what brand is the new rad? Some "alternatives" might have lower fin density, which could be problematic on a car with AC.

That's what I've thought seeing the 1.3 radiator change. Quality of the radiator is very critical on 1.3 size.

6 hours ago, Papez said:

Some "alternatives" might have lower fin density, which could be problematic on a car with AC.

Mahle and thermoswitch also! 

6 hours ago, R_Blue said:

That's what I've thought seeing the 1.3 radiator change. Quality of the radiator is very critical on 1.3 size.

You think your boy here would settle for quality components? 

Ofc not! 

Mahle rad! 

Head is on valves adjusted. 

Although I lubed up the bolts some of them felt marginal so I didn't get the full 180deg more like 170ish. 

But I guess that is much better than snapping one. 

20nm (since my torque wrench is torsion type it may have been around 25 but skoda gives 20+-3)

90deg

90deg

IMG_20230107_132456.jpg

IMG_20230107_133113.jpg

Edited by Thefeliciahacker

IMG_20230107_144951.jpg

5 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Head is on valves adjusted. 

Although I lubed up the bolts some of them felt marginal so I didn't get the full 180deg more like 170ish. 

But I guess that is much better than snapping one. 

20nm (since my torque wrench is torsion type it may have been around 25 but skoda gives 20+-3)

90deg

90deg

/cdn-cgi/mirage/b2a6ebb5516a62a813ba256bbceb36dd8e83d541906d5a304225e76358d80b2b/1280/https://www.briskoda.net/forums/uploads/monthly_2023_01/IMG_20230107_132456.thumb.jpg.ce9c4c0217a6ee1790999e846ca9f48b.jpg

 

 

Did you doublecheck the position? It looks like the oil channel hole is on the oposite side..

 

 

IMG_20230107_202832.jpg

29 minutes ago, Papez said:

Did you doublecheck the position? It looks like the oil channel hole is on the oposite side..

Haha my friend you are VERY attentive, that photo was a set up, to see if someone would catch it!!!
Here is the real deal!
Ofc, everything was done to as close as I could by the book

IMG_20230107_132524.jpg

Edited by Thefeliciahacker

Was the photo of a Pierburg carburettor followed by one of (I think) a fuel injector a set up as well?

2 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Was the photo of a Pierburg carburettor followed by one of (I think) a fuel injector a set up as well?

The tb is made by Pierburg!
The photo of the injectors is just to show they have been cleaned and their o-rings changed to top quality viton ones!

On 06/01/2023 at 20:54, Papez said:

that radiator hose is pretty cramped there

 

Mine too (as is from the factory) so i added a plastic part to avoid the friction on the oil filter.

The @Thefeliciahacker hose looks much better.

Just bought a set of head bolts!
Last one on Autodoc.
Mislabeled so it didnt appear that it fit my car!
I would have ordered it sooner so not to pay the 13 euros more.
God damn it Autodoc
Will see how long this HG will hold.
It is a PTFE coated payen so simply the best on the market!
Anyhow, will have a detailed breakdown of all the parts and the cost involved.
But I dont think it is more than 500euros

image.png.7f0f63eaa2b73daef38324d2641a0f8d.png

Edited by Thefeliciahacker

This knob appears very stiff when turning does anyone know how to free it up! 

IMG_20230108_172946.jpg

ONLY 35 for new manifold intake and 28 euro for new thermostat?

 

You can pull it out and use some silicone spray.

8 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

You can pull it out and use some silicone spray.

Do I see the cables behind it?

9 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

ONLY 35 for new manifold intake

used

9 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

28 euro for new thermostat

yes VEMO very high quality with circlip and not the one with prongs!

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

and use some silicone spray

Or GT85 as it's more versatile for other uses on car and home. - https://gt85.co.uk/gt85-original/

 

GT85.thumb.jpg.3c8f610b30fe92668923a9cc12f0e68e.jpg

Edited by nta16
ETA: Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

5 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Or GT85 as it's more versatile for other uses on car and home

where should I use it?

Some photos, lets hope I can make it work properly!!
Startup video will be viewable when its done uploading.

https://youtu.be/jzdHDQAGHhE

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323797002_833398297737111_7931517083463944191_n.jpg

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

14 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

where should I use it?

Where you would use the silicone spray and instead of WD-40 - sorry I've no idea what mechanism is used behind the heater control knob but you can spray GT85 to lubricate plastic against plastic or on cables (for electrics), etc..  Obviously you must first find out what is causing the knob to be difficult to operate otherwise just lubricating things may cause something to slip, jam or break.

 

Do you not have a parts catalogue diagram and/or list of heater / heater control parts to give you some idea?

 

Edited by nta16
ETA: Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

15 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Do I see the cables behind it?

 

NE8kxsl.jpeg

 

I find this photo.

I don't agree with the plastic tie-wraps and the fabric tape close to the manifold.

You can use metal tie-wraps of aluminium high temperature adhesive tape.

In the past i had problem with odour because a plastic part which was around the cable of Lambda was getting overheated and every day i had a bad smell inside the cabin.

 

t0X2FmX.jpg

https://imgur.com/t0X2FmX

 

PS: the slippers on both of you was characteristic. 😉

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I don't agree with the plastic tie-wraps and the fabric tape close to the manifold.

That's the intake manifold 

On 07/01/2023 at 20:58, Thefeliciahacker said:

Haha my friend you are VERY attentive, that photo was a set up, to see if someone would catch it!!!

 

Good one! Maybe you could describe the photo as example how Not to do it :D

 

16 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Do I see the cables behind it?

 

The cables should be acessible if you remove the black portion of the dashboard.

15 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

That's the intake manifold 

 

Of course is but in the summer period here in GR gets hot, it gets too much temperature from the exhaust manifold especially in long distance trips.

 

13 hours ago, nta16 said:

Where you would use the silicone spray and instead of WD-40

 

https://ican.gr/product/wd-40-gt85-multi-purpose-lubricant-with-ptfe-400ml-τεμάχιο/

 

WD-40 GT85

 

Those with PTFE were we call them Teflon spary, an example:

https://www.skroutz.gr/s/20885544/Wd-40-Specialist-Anti-Friction-Dry-PTFE-Lubricant-Σπρέι-Τεφλόν-400ml.html

 

some more:

https://www.skroutz.gr/search?keyphrase=σπρευ+τεφλον

 

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