Hi I'm new here and have a skoda fabia 1.6tdi cayc engine and engine never gets up to temp have changed the water pump and the thermostat expansion  bottle and cap the top radiator hose never gets past like warm same with the bottom rad hose the internal heater blows like warm air what can I do now the dpf light is on too

3 hours ago, coley8978 said:

engine never gets up to temp have changed the water pump and the thermostat expansion  bottle and cap

Have you considered changing the thermostat instead of just firing the parts cannon at the car?

Why did you change the expansion tank? How far do you drive, if only very short distance you may never get up to temp at this time of year with short runs. Is it a temp gauge or just a blue light that goes out at 45 deg.c, my 1.4TDI Greenline always ran cool before changing the thermostat despite steep climb over the Pennines every day, You may want to get onto the motorway to try and get some temp in keeping in a low gear with high revs as a dpf regen will not initiate until you get above about (I think) 70 deg.c, but the regen should be prioritized, even try putting a liquid dpf cleaner in the tank.

First thing I would have done is changed the thermostat. Reasonably cheap and easy to do.

It's not the clearest post, but he does mention thermostat as one of the things already changed.

Is this a DSG gearbox car?

1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

but he does mention thermostat as one of the things already changed

I read that as " thermostat expansion  bottle and cap"; 2 items rather than 3.

I read it as Pete did, I think its lacking a comma (after thermostat) as to my knowledge there is no such thing as a "thermostat expansion bottle"

If 3 things - thermostat, expansion bottle and water pump - have been changed I would revise the thermostat.

Take the new thermostat out and put it into hot water. It should open immediately. If not, it is broken and needs to be replaced.

31 minutes ago, 26DIPP said:

Take the new thermostat out and put it into hot water. It should open immediately

 

Bad advice, not hot but boiling water, the opening temperature is well beyond the temperature of domestic hot water and beyond scolding temperature, as soon as you take a kettle off the boil the temp will fall quickly to close to the stat operating temp by the time you have dunked it.

 

I put them in the kettle, bring to the boil, look to see if they are fully open and then wait till they start to close, I take the temp at that point and also when they have just fully closed.

55 minutes ago, J.R. said:

 

Bad advice, not hot but boiling water, the opening temperature is well beyond the temperature of domestic hot water and beyond scolding temperature, as soon as you take a kettle off the boil the temp will fall quickly to close to the stat operating temp by the time you have dunked it.

 

I put them in the kettle, bring to the boil, look to see if they are fully open and then wait till they start to close, I take the temp at that point and also when they have just fully closed.

A small pan on the hob is also an option.

90°C, I meant hot.

5 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

A small pan on the hob is also an option.

 

A better option and what I used to do, TBH I'm not sure now why I wrote kettle 😳, perhaps the last time I tested one in the last century a kettle was all I had to hand.

Edited 28 December, 20223 yr by J.R.

On 27/12/2022 at 01:26, coley8978 said:

Hi I'm new here and have a skoda fabia 1.6tdi cayc engine and engine never gets up to temp have changed the water pump and the thermostat expansion  bottle and cap the top radiator hose never gets past like warm same with the bottom rad hose the internal heater blows like warm air what can I do now the dpf light is on too

First problem I ever had in a car was the heater not working I changed the thermostat and everything was fine,

just as well, I was on the mendips with frost, snow and driving winds. I fitted a radiator blanking plate

(a piece of hardboard) to the bottom half of the radiatorwhich stayed there the rest of that winter.

Just a thought, we used to squeeze the bottom hose to check for a "crunch" as sometimes the antifreeze formed a "slushie"

and the water would not circulate efficiently and the engine would have to be warmed up gently.

I had a Ford Prefect 100E and I hung a square of hardboard, suspended by a wire, from the radiator cap, to close off the bottom of the huge radiator. I only took it off in the height of summer. I think the cooling system on that car was designed for the Sahara - and hotter!

19 hours ago, gumdrop said:

Just a thought, we used to squeeze the bottom hose to check for a "crunch" as sometimes the antifreeze formed a "slushie"

and the water would not circulate efficiently and the engine would have to be warmed up gently.

The 'crunch' means add more glycol 😄

15 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

The 'crunch' means add more glycol 😄

True but we were having lower temperatures (and blizzards) than the recommended anti-freeze doses

5 hours ago, gumdrop said:

True but we were having lower temperatures (and blizzards) than the recommended anti-freeze doses

It's not wrong to run a higher anti-freeze concentration than the minimum recommended.

6 hours ago, gumdrop said:

True but we were having lower temperatures (and blizzards) than the recommended anti-freeze doses

 

Recommended by whom?

 

The best recommendation is to use common sense and local knowledge to make your own decisions.

 

The stronger you make the antifreeze the less it cools the engine so you can have overheating issues if you make it too strong. For best engine cooling it should be plain water, possibly one of the reasons, back in the day, that you just put antifreeze in in the winter.

56 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Recommended by whom?

 

The best recommendation is to use common sense and local knowledge to make your own decisions.

 

I'm sure it was the manufacturers recommendation but the weather occasionaly begged to differ

 

10 minutes ago, Jocko said:

The stronger you make the antifreeze the less it cools the engine so you can have overheating issues if you make it too strong.

OTOH, the weaker you make it, the more likely it is to freeze, and if you're lucky you push out one or more core plugs: If you're not lucky you crack the block and.or head.

That is why you should go by the manufacturer's recommendations. I regularly check mine with a antifreeze hydrometer.

1 hour ago, Jocko said:

That is why you should go by the manufacturer's recommendations. I regularly check mine with a antifreeze hydrometer.

Yes, and I've usually had a range of manufacturer's recommendations from 25% to 50% antifreeze depending on the low air temperature the car will be exposed to.

I normally go by the richest figure they give. Antifreeze is cheaper than an engine.