Help with error codes on my 2013 CBZA engine (1.2 TSI)

[nikasp]

I recently bought this Mk2 with CBZA 1.2 TSI engine. My own code scanner got bricked after an upgrade so I hope to get a OBD Eleven (NextGen) in the mail tomorrow.

I went to where we are obliged to control the cars here in Sweden (MOT in England? ) and got the error codes scanned for cheap today though. Unfortunately the explanations are in Swedish, apologies for that. When I get the OBD Eleven I will erase and see which ones stay. I think the last 4 regarding door locks may not come back after erasing, I fixed a broken wire so all 4 doors and all 4 windows work now.

 

Symptoms I have:

1. With short intervals the EPC and ESP light blink and the car runs like sh#t, probably limp mode. When I stop and start again it runs OK for a short while.
2. Sometimes the engine stutters on acceleration.
3. The car worked fine when there was no snow, probably drove 3-4 hours after buying it last week. Now we're below freezing and it runs worse.
4. I did get the orange engine light on yesterday, Stayed on but when starting this morning that was gone and did not come back. Bullet #1 did occur several times when I drove it to scan error codes. Maybe 5-6 times in a 5 km drive. 
5. This is intended to be our extra car so will not drive it and hope to pick off code by code with help from here  Unfortunately our garage is completely full so I'll have to work outside in minus degrees and then it gets dark at 15:00 nowadays...
    

Some stuff that I've googled:

P019100 - "fuel pressure sensor unrealistic value/number". Seems a new one costs about 40 EUR.

P227900 - "inlet air leak", read about some hose near the spark plugs may be an issue there, right?

P030400 - "cylinder no 4 misfire detected". New spark plugs or should I have a stab at all the other stuff before then? I read here that it's no good to keep driving with this issue so will let it stay home until further.

 

 

Edited 5 January, 2023 by nikasp

[lello7]

I think we have to wait until you erase all codes, and see what will re-appear..

The epc and esp light is most likely due to the code regarding Kamaxelpositionsgivarkrets, since the ESP is depandant of that sensor.

[nikasp]

Thanks, will come back next week. Express package but will not arrive until Tuesday (OBD Eleven NextGen).

[nikasp]

Hmm, puzzling. I connected my new OBDEleven NextGen and got the exact same error codes as the check from MOT last week. Erased all, went for a 8-10 minute drive. No ESP light or similar, only one single jerk/hesitation on 3rd gear when accelerating. The previous owner mentioned this could occur while the engine is cold but not when warm, something I thought I may be able to fix (or let the shop figure out).

 

When I reran the check I only see "Brake system 01314" and the climate thingy "01272" regarding some vent flap. I did expect the 4 door and window codes to go away since I fixed a broken cable in the door, could not lock from remote),as well as the P227900 "intake air leakage". I noticed that the plastic air intake was not put together correctly and was almost falling apart. But all rest?

 

Should I go for a longer ride and try to provoke the problem, usually happens in low speeds while accelerating. Also note that the weather is now mild as when I bought it and drove over an hours w/o problems, 3 degrees celsius and rain.

I think I will order new spark plugs and leads as well. No clue when they were last replaced and I had this before erasing codes (cyl 4 misfire):

Edited 9 January, 2023 by nikasp

[nta16]

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

First thing I'd do is check the state of charge on the battery and unless it was near enough full I would fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger at as long, low and slow recharge as possible which may take many hours particularly if it is very cold where you are.

 

You could be chasing error codes, and more of them, that might not be there with a charged battery.  For the vent flap you could do a reset on with your scan tool perhaps(?) - or disconnect the battery - [ETA: - carefully bridge/join the positive and negative battery leads post clamps together to complete a circuit ] - turn the ignition on and press and hold the brake pedal down hard for a number of seconds and switch on the headlights and whatever you feel - none will work as the battery is disconnected but do not forget to turn everything off again, this might squeeze some of the computers to a part reset and if it doesn't it was free, easy and quick to try and you didn't get your hands (too) dirty nd sitting in relative protection of the cabin.

 

Remember the scan tool is a diagnostic tool and not a magic pointer to what sensors to change (though it can be sometimes).

 

Then do you know for certain of any service history and recent servicing, maintenance and repairs, if you do any then check it has really been done and properly and for the whole car not just the engine.

 

An 8 or 10 minute drive is not great for any car, look at the oil temperature if available rather than coolant temperature gauge, you want the oil at 90+c.

 

After making sure the brakes, steering and suspension (all three include tyres) are reasonably functioning, the important electrics are next (they need the battery in a good state of charge too) lights, wipers, blower, horn, etc..  On to simple stuff like changing the air filter (and cabin filter) if required.

 

Things like changing the spark plugs I would leave until better weather unless you want to do it or they play up, then I would  look cleaning the throttle at the same time and the MAF if not already done with the air filter.

 

Engine oil & filter change would definitely wait until warmer weather for me and I would also consider a change of coolant and gearbox oil (depending on box).

 

Other jobs and problems might present that take priority with use but often more regular use over reasonable distance journeys will help the car to run better - and possibly highlight next priority jobs or what can be lived or put up with until better weather.  Do all your servicing, maintenance and repairs as much as possible in the better weather so the car runs well in the bad weather and you have little to do on it, prevention is better than cure.

 

Good luck.

 

Edited 18 February, 2023 by nta16
ETA: an important bit I missed out

[nta16]

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Also, just remembered, if you read the Owner's Manual at start of ownership (or better still before buying) and refer to it when required then you will know more about your car than many long term owners.  If you do not have the paper printed copy then you can download a pdf copy from the following link using your VIN or model and (part) year of build. -  https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

 

[nikasp]

Have not had any time this week but remembered that the car had been standing for months before we bought it. Have run a battery recond programme with my Ctek charger, left it for over 48 hours. Unplugged for 24 hrs and got 12,8V which should indicate good condition.

Drove a short run now and ran perfect but will go for a long ride and see. Aim to change spark plugs and leads any way. Will come back with how things turned out.

[nta16]

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

2 hours ago, nikasp said:

Unplugged for 24 hrs and got 12,8V which should indicate good condition.

Drove a short run

12.8v is good but after the car has been parked up for a few hours take another battery reading now to see what you get to at least tell you the state of charge and what's been held (allowing for short run usage).  This does not tell you the battery's state of health but in cold weather you do want a good state of charge too.

 

Edited 13 January, 2023 by nta16

[nikasp]

Hmm. +5 degress and rain. Have had the battery on charger and went for an 8 km drive and 8 km back. I had *one* minor stutter on the whole trip.  From cold on 3rd gear it hesitated for a second when accelerating. WIll order spark plugs and leads and see.

 

Recall now that I changed "ignition cassette", don't know the english name for it, on an Opel Astra long ago. That car was a bit hard to start and also stuttered badly, I am nowhere near those problems now.

[thomasaspin]

Check for air leaks in brake servo also common on the 1.2 tsi’s 

[nta16]

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

3 hours ago, nikasp said:

Hmm. +5 degress and rain. Have had the battery on charger and went for an 8 km drive and 8 km back. I had *one* minor stutter on the whole trip.  From cold on 3rd gear it hesitated for a second when accelerating. WIll order spark plugs and leads and see.

 

Recall now that I changed "ignition cassette", don't know the english name for it, on an Opel Astra long ago. That car was a bit hard to start and also stuttered badly, I am nowhere near those problems now.

Below +5c generally is when the winter setting is used on a battery charger if it has that setting.

 

16km (10m) may be barely enough as a journey to get the engine warmed, the coolant temperature gauges are often biased to show 90c even when a bit above or below this and it is more important to have the oil temperature at 90c or above for a while which might depend on the type of journey the 16km was.  You probably need to do longer journeys to help find and clear things.

 

Clean new spark plugs can often make a good improvement even when the existing plugs look fine same for HT leads.  Sorry I cannot think what an "ignition cassette" might be (at the moment perhaps at 3am tomorrow).  Anything not right with the ignition system  could affect the starting, idle and running.

 

Once you have checked/changed the air filter, cleaned the MAF and throttle perhaps, fitted the new plugs and leads and if the car is up to it you might want to take the car on a couple of sensibly done blowout (Italian tune-up) runs with perhaps a tankful or two of something like Shell V-Power for its additives cleaning package.

 

[nikasp]

Yeah, it’s our extra car so not dependant on it. Will test new leads and plugs an see how it goes and will have it serviced soon.

 

Got rid of an annoying clunk sound today so the very rare stutter plus some air condition flap error is next. Red rust primer since I had to give up an cut the bolt due to rust.

 

 

 

 

[nta16]

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

At least you found the clunk (we have not)  and seem to have a lot more room than when I done my neighbours droplinks.  After the next drive I would suggest you check the torque tightness of the new nuts, you look like you have the room(?) to do so with the car sitting on its four wheels and tyres.

 

Do a search on air-con flap depending on your type of air-con and model their might be several ways for a simple reset and if you change the cabin filter you can check there's not lots of debris in that area (and inlet?) of of the system at least.

 

Using the car only occasionally will introduce possibly more problems than if it has more regular use, certainly if the regular use was over reasonable distances.

 

Me personally I would disconnect the battery, switch the ignition on and press hard and hold the brake pedal down so that the brake lights would be on if the battery was not disconnected, if you want also turn the headlights, or blower on full, whatever takes your fancy for however long you like as long as it's for a good few seconds at least.  Remember to turn everything off again immediately so you do not forget for when you reconnect the battery.  This is easy, no cost, relatively clean hands and comfort to do, the only sort of car work I dislike the least.  The idea is to get whatever will to reset, even if I had a scan tool I would do this as the computer "repair" "reset".  If it does nothing (or seems to do nothing)  it has took next to nothing or lost nothing to do.  Check your Owner's Manual for things that might need resetting/synchronising after a battery disconnect.  I like a clear base to start from, like clearing error codes from previous owners.

 

Good luck.

 

[nikasp]

Another short ride today and it worked perfectly. Think I’ll take it to work Tuesday and Wednesday which means 35 km per day.

Cleared the two faults I had and think both will reappear. 

[nta16]

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

17.5km is very barely enough or possibly not enough to warm the engine or car and not enough to be fully able to exercise the car.  It would be better and expose and tell you more if you could you go on a longer and more interesting route to fully warm the car and get use of the steering, braking, suspension, clutch, gears and electrics.

 

Personally I would record then clear the error codes each time as you are not using the car enough or done the work required perhaps to have cleared up some issues (depending on what they are).

 

Have you tried the battery disconnect and 'reset'.

 

The problem with a car that isn't used regularly is that you could get it fully sorted and loosened up but then by just not using it all the little issues of it not being used creep back in and the cycle starts all over again, I've seen this a lot with "historic" "vintage"/"classic" owners and many of those do not have alarms/immobilisers and computers and modules to add to the issues.

 

[nikasp]

Now it just runs flawlessly so will park this thread. The two codes I can find when scanning are unrelated to any stutter but now I have not felt after driving 2-4 hours and my spouse have not felt anything weird when driving either.

 

Maybe the battery was rather flat, have let it charge for 5-6x24 hours som my Ctek charger regards it as full.

[nta16]

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

1 hour ago, nikasp said:

Maybe the battery was rather flat, have let it charge for 5-6x24 hours som my Ctek charger regards it as full.

I would put a bet on if the battery was a bit low let alone flat that it could cause you all sorts of unexpected issues and possibly warning lights and message before you even know or are warmed officially that the battery is a bit too low for the car's computers and their programs.

 

You did not reply if the battery held its 12.8v charge with the battery charger or maintainer disconnected and for how long it holds that charge.

 

If a battery is taken too low and not replenished but with further discharge then it may not ever fully recover even if fully rechargers so do keep an eye on your battery until you know that it is reliable.  The better quality and newer the better recovery it can make but it does depend on the use (abuse and neglect) it had received and the use (abuse and neglect) in future short, medium and long term.

 

Some can just not understand or accept how important the 12v battery is to the car and the newer and more luxurious the the car the greater the battery's state of charge and health importance is.  A 2013 VW(Skoda) start/stop car is very battery needy.

 

Playing with sexy toys like scanners is fun but but never neglect the basics, like the battery's state of charge and health.

 

[nikasp]

The battery gives 12,7-12,8 volts but without starting, did not bother to disconnect it since we’ve used the car daily now.

 

Last week I erased all codes, 2 were left: air condition flap and brakes. Tested an aircondition test cycle with the OBD-app, it ran the fan on highest and cycled through all different vents for quite some time. After that I put the battery on charge per above. Note: my ride does not have start/stop-function and is manual.

 

The car runs perfect now, have asked my spouse to report any stutter or similar but she has not noticed anything.

 

AND - when I checked errror codes now I got 0 (zero). Will regard the car as working fine for now. Thanks for help and ideas 🙂

Edited 21 January, 2023 by nikasp

[nta16]

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

All good stuff.  If the 12.7/8v are after a couple of hours after parking up and much longer after recharging then they are very good.

 

Be aware, do not wait for or fully rely on when warning lights and messages and error codes appear as often they are delayed and you or your spouse could notice if something is wrong well before the car's computers or the scanner tell you.

 

Good luck.

 

[nikasp]

Got some slight stutters and one limp mode after another month without any charging so deemed the battery as gone. With a new Bosch S5 005 the car runs perfectly. Wanted to buy a battery tester but that cost almost as much as a new battery so did not bother to check before I tossed the old one. All good now

Edited 12 April, 2023 by nikasp

[nta16]

So your car is not a start/stop model then (I have no idea what is sold in Sweden)?

 

I cannot remember how far you got with the car I think you changed the spark plugs but did you check or change the engine air filter (and perhaps cabin filter too).

 

I hope you tossed the old battery to recycling, we can get a little money back here in UK used car batteries.

 

[nikasp]

Nope, the car ran fine for 1,5 months and then suddenly stutter and EPC light plus limp mode (until stopped and started). No stop/start on this manual 1.2TSI. Batteries are not worth anything here so in recycling now.

[sepulchrave]

2 minutes ago, nikasp said:

Nope, the car ran fine for 1,5 months and then suddenly stutter and EPC light plus limp mode (until stopped and started). No stop/start on this manual 1.2TSI. Batteries are not worth anything here so in recycling now.

 

They're not worth anything here either but some of the old bluffers on here are so mean that they'll trap the steam off their own p1ss rather than risk someone else getting it...

[nta16]

42 minutes ago, nikasp said:

Nope, the car ran fine for 1,5 months and then suddenly stutter and EPC light plus limp mode (until stopped and started). No stop/start on this manual 1.2TSI. Batteries are not worth anything here so in recycling now.

Sounds like you squeezed that battery as dry as you could.  Your new battery and use of battery charger will have it outliving the car by a long way I expect.

 

Over here you can get say £8 for the old battery as "scrap" (recycle) this recycles and also safely and responsibly disposes of them (concepts foreign to some).  Those that wish to could donate this money (and more) to a chosen registered charity (against their nature for some) and the charity can claim a further 25% on top if the donor has that year paid sufficient income or capital gains tax (unfortunately an absolute anathema to some).

 

Edited 13 April, 2023 by nta16
missing words

[sepulchrave]

25 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Sounds like you squeezed that battery as dry as you could.  Your new battery and use of battery charger will have it outliving the car by a long way I expect.

 

Over here you can get say £8 for the old battery as "scrap" (recycle) this recycles and also safely and responsibly disposes of them (concepts foreign to some).  Those that wish to could donate this money (and more) to a chosen registered charity (against their nature for some) and the charity can claim a further 25% on top if the donor has that year paid sufficient income or capital gains tax (unfortunately an absolute anathema to some).

 

No-one I know of will buy a single scrap battery, you need at least 100kg worth before you can cash them in, this is because they're classed as hazardous waste, cannot be easily stored due to COSHH regulations and are expensive to recycle.

 

They'll take them at our local council tip but they certainly won't pay anything.

 

You might get a fiver if you sit outside Waitrose in a dirty sleeping bag holding a sign saying "will eat money for charity".

 

I do generally leave you to cover the battery pros and cons but you have got to stop making stuff up, ALL lead acid batteries get recycled, it's the law, you can't incinerate them or put them in landfill, and eating them isn't really an option, even for someone as mad as you obviously are.