On 14/04/2023 at 14:51, D.FYLAKTOS said:

My english are not good but you mean for example something like these?

 

 

 

 

Years later - I am asking where have D.Fylaktos found Elsawin for anything of Felicia?
Im stuck with a blower speed knob stuck - it wont turn, I can turn the blower to loooow speed and off, nothing else.
Trying to find out where the cable goes to, from the middle knob.

28 minutes ago, Orchid70 said:

Years later - I am asking where have D.Fylaktos found Elsawin for anything of Felicia?
Im stuck with a blower speed knob stuck - it wont turn, I can turn the blower to loooow speed and off, nothing else.
Trying to find out where the cable goes to, from the middle knob.

its the resistor

Resistor is electrical - replaced motor and resistor a month ago.
No this is something jamming the knob itself. Cannot physically move it passed "12 a clock" position. Ill take a movie so you understand through a mirror so you can see the rear.

8 minutes ago, Orchid70 said:

No this is something jamming the knob itself. Cannot physically move it passed "12 a clock" position. Ill take a movie so you understand through a mirror so you can see the rear.

Ahhh the stop has shifted

1 hour ago, Orchid70 said:

found Elsawin for anything of Felicia?

Do you need something more about Felicia A/C?

https://www.skodabook.ru/en/remain/Felicia/power/cooling/sistema-kondicionirovaniya-informaciya-i-predostorozhnosti

41 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Ahhh the stop has shifted

Is there anything I can do without taking the whole control/knob unit out of the dash? I can see the rear of the control has different "plates" that move and the outer part feels like its not where it should be - it doesnt get passed the part where the wire is attached. Ill take movie/pictures tomorrow, its cold like in hell here at the moment.

44 minutes ago, Orchid70 said:

Is there anything I can do without taking the whole control/knob unit out of the dash? I can see the rear of the control has different "plates" that move and the outer part feels like its not where it should be - it doesnt get passed the part where the wire is attached. Ill take movie/pictures tomorrow, its cold like in hell here at the moment.

you need to remove the whole assembly sadly

Damn.
But its fixable? Does it happen again if I fix it this time? Perhaps its better to buy an other control panel? Also the heater knob is hard to turn - from 12 a clock and back to cold.
So, out with the instrument cluster, loosen alla the cables at the flap-ends and get control panel with all the cables still attached to it, out through the instrument cluster hole? How hard is it the attach the cables back to their places again....?
Damn, damn, I was just shutting off the fan during the time I was connecting the VCDS and looking some measuring blocks. Problems with throttle, I think. This is not what I was looking forward.

7 hours ago, Orchid70 said:

from 12 a clock and back to cold.

This has to do with the cables and the flap connection on the heaterbox, i had this problem and it is easy to rectify with lubricating spray in the right spot

7 hours ago, Orchid70 said:

So, out with the instrument cluster, loosen alla the cables at the flap-ends and get control panel with all the cables still attached to it, out through the instrument cluster hole? How hard is it the attach the cables back to their places again....?

You will need to remove the gauge cluster insert and the ashtray to get enough wiggle room to unplug and unclip everything.

7 hours ago, Orchid70 said:

Damn, damn, I was just shutting off the fan during the time I was connecting the VCDS and looking some measuring blocks. Problems with throttle, I think. This is not what I was looking forward.

Start with a good tb clean, and then proceed with a reset with MSM, if the reset fails, download EEPROM content and send it over

11 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

with lubricating spray in the right spot

Contact cleaner or silicone?

57 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Contact cleaner or silicone?

i choose ptfe wet or dry what you prefer for long lasting and good wicking

3 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

You will need to remove the gauge cluster insert and the ashtray to get enough wiggle room to unplug and unclip everything.

Start with a good tb clean, and then proceed with a reset with MSM, if the reset fails, download EEPROM content and send it over

3 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Start with a good tb clean, and then proceed with a reset with MSM, if the reset fails, download EEPROM content and send it over

I only have the latest VCDS (original) and any of the old KKL (have one called VAG KKL +Fiat ECUScan, but that did not work with Motoriag), så have ordered a fast KKL from Czech Republic during the Christmas, hopefully I dont have to wait very long.

I will try to fix this control panel and lubricate the heater flap. Thats very much what the car owner is all about =) Fix what you have.
Thank you so far.

Fixed. Thank you for the help.
Wonder why this happens.... See the the arrow - that pin should be inside the outer plate.
LORD it wasnt fun job - and still have to put all back again. Have no idea how Im going to get the plastic clips to the air flow flaps on place..... Always one thing to get clips out and totally other job to get them to attach again....

So what I did:
Out with:
Dash insert
Instrument cluster (had new cable on it so couldnt get off the cable from cluster, took off on the gearbox) - left hanging
Glove box insert

Loosen all four cables to air control flaps, two in engine bay and two are reached from glove box hole
Now I could get off the ash tray insert when heater control panel is loose
Attached wires to the cables from engine bay and pulled them inside car
And after turning the heater knob, I could get the controller out through instrument cluster hole!

good catch!

Is it not exactly what you though?
GOD oh mighty it was NOT fun to get the cables to the air distribution flaps on place. Was just about to cut open the dash insert... But got the clips on place with lång 90 degrees angled pliers from the ashtray hole (the lower flap) and the heater controller hole (the upper flap) and from the glove box hole with all sorts of angles tools to push. Its doing keyhole surgery, blind. Couple of tools to through in the wall is good to have too and loads of swearing, when you loose your temper.....

11 minutes ago, Orchid70 said:

Is it not exactly what you though?
GOD oh mighty it was NOT fun to get the cables to the air distribution flaps on place. Was just about to cut open the dash insert... But got the clips on place with lång 90 degrees angled pliers from the ashtray hole (the lower flap) and the heater controller hole (the upper flap) and from the glove box hole with all sorts of angles tools to push. Its doing keyhole surgery, blind. Couple of tools to through in the wall is good to have too and loads of swearing, when you loose your temper.....

Its close, I go usually by the glovebox after I remove the bin

I needed two hand operation to get everything on place - dont have the finger power, specially after done surgery on the dominant hand, carpal tunnel release.

Thank you for the help. Really appreciate it.

2 hours ago, Orchid70 said:

I needed two hand operation to get everything on place - dont have the finger power, specially after done surgery on the dominant hand, carpal tunnel release.

Oh yeah, carpal tunnel aint good, I wish I could help meaningfully rather than just write.

On 05/01/2026 at 18:09, Thefeliciahacker said:

Oh yeah, carpal tunnel aint good, I wish I could help meaningfully rather than just write.

Hi again - there might be way to help =)
I have problems getting the Motodiag to work, and not sure Adart Computers can help. Something you have any experience with? If I start a new thread on that?

5 hours ago, Orchid70 said:

I have problems getting the Motodiag to work, and not sure Adart Computers can help. Something you have any experience with? If I start a new thread on that?

pm me, usually if you are getting lost bytes, you need to mess with the baud rate. The obvious is the drivers and the right COM port

PM Sent =)