Subframe corrosion

[ngoongiz]

Hi,

 

After not posting on Briskoda for about 12 years after selling my Fabia Vrs, I am looking to possibly return.

 

I have seen a Yeti for sale, however on the last two MOT it has shown up

 

2022

 

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):

• Central Rear subframe rusting

 

2021

• Rear Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))

It looks like the current owner has attempted to address this as per the attached before and after images.

 

Apparently it has been lanoguarded annually and treated with a course of NATO standard Neutrarust and painted with Buzzweld Chasis paint.

 

Is this rust or the standard of the work carried something to be overly worried about?.

 

Thanks

[StevesTruck]

That's a suspension arm, they're cheap enough, I'd be more bothered about the bit it's bolted on to. 

[J.R.]

30 minutes ago, ngoongiz said:

NATO standard Neutrarust

 

Thats todays laugh of the day for me.

[ngoongiz]

2 minutes ago, J.R. said:

 

Thats todays laugh of the day for me.

 

Yeah, I had never heard of it  either.

 

It comes up on eBay as the below.

 

Neutrarust 661® - The Original Rust Converter & Primer Treatment 1 Litre 

 

MOD & NATO approved

Free UK Delivery and dispatched within one working day!

The Original Rust Converter developed over 40 years ago and still recognised around the world as the best rust treatment for almost any rusted metal project.

Neutrarust 661® – This incredible British product is hailed by many as the Original and Best Rust Converter. This is the Fast Working rust treatment for professional & domestic uses.

Superior coating consistency providing high quality surface ready for painting. Easy to apply and perfect for automotive applications, ships, ballast tanks, oil rigs, refineries, power stations, boat yards, bridges, pipework, railways, subframes, chassis protection, engine mountings. In fact, anywhere that corroded ferrous materials can be found. Can be used above and below the water line. A mineral acid-free rust treatment, formulated to neutralise corrosion on ferrous materials and components also acts as a primer. It has been designed to react rapidly on ferrous corrosion, leaving a tough insoluble ready-to-paint acrylic coating, without the use of hazardous mineral acids. Once dry, the coating can be overpainted with a paint suitable for your individual application.

Supplied ready for use.

 

• Simple to use & converts rust to READY-TO-PAINT surface
• Neutralises the corrosion process
• Water based – Classified as non-hazardous
• Minimum surface preparation required
• Superior smooth "wetting out" surface application  
• Produces a hard, water insoluble hydrophobic film
• Mineral acid free
• Compatible with most paint products
• COVERAGE: 10 to 12 square metres per litre
• Specially tested against salt spray for sea-going vessels and off shore applications
• MANUFACTURED IN THE UK

 

Instructions: 

Clean off any oil, grease, loose flakes of rust etc. Rinse with clean water. 

Brush, roll  or spray on to surface (COVERAGE: 10-12 square metres) 

Store in temperatures between 5 °C and 35 °C and use within 12 months of opening

 

Authentic original Neutrarust® product - managed by Polycote UK

[Kenny R]

Is it available in 45 gallon drums for underside of that Yeti

[ngoongiz]

13 minutes ago, Kenny R said:

Is it available in 45 gallon drums for underside of that Yeti

 

Do you think it's bad?

[J.R.]

Yes but so is mine and probably every other ungaraged one, I think mine lived by the sea.

 

If you look at that one again look at the clamped sleeve exhaust joint between the front and rear sections, I bet you that there is nothing left of the clamps.

 

Thus far the corrosion on mine has only been a problem regarding the exhaust sleeve and undoing any suspension bolts, there was a thread on here of another very rusty example that same rear lower arm where the shock absorber mounting had ripped clean away and the race was on between whether the spring would make a bid for freedom before the rear hub and driveshaft did.

 

If you buy it then keep an eye on it as I do.

[EnterName]

18 hours ago, ngoongiz said:

 

Do you think it's bad?

I'm wondering why the previous owner stopped there with the stuff. I mean there's plenty more rust they could have had a go at.  https://neutrarust.co.uk/

The underside of that Yeti makes me think of a woman who's gone out having only crayoned on a pair of those daft big black eyebrows, and done nowt else to glam herself up.

[J.R.]

On 19/04/2023 at 21:34, ngoongiz said:

• Rear Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))

It looks like the current owner has attempted to address this as per the attached before and after images.

 

Apparently it has been lanoguarded annually and treated with a course of NATO standard Neutrarust and painted with Buzzweld Chasis paint.

 

Is this rust or the standard of the work carried something to be overly worried about?.

 

I would be worried that the previous owner does not know the difference between a rear subframe and a lower suspension link!

 

If he is to be believed then he has slavishly Lanoguarded and Snake Oil treated the suspension arm or arms and completely ignored the very rusty proverbial Elephant in the room right beside it.

 

I would be looking at the exhaust clamp, all the suspension bolts that will at some time need removing to replace shock absorbers and springs, the front & rear brake disc backplates and the inside hidden friction face of the brake discs, these are all areas where corrosion has caused me problems or cost money.

 

Also look for zinc inclusion scabbing on the door bottoms, almost certainly likely to be present, if not look for repairs, overspray etc.

[Servicepoint3]

On 20/04/2023 at 21:03, J.R. said:

 

I would be worried that the previous owner does not know the difference between a rear subframe and a lower suspension link!

 

If he is to be believed then he has slavishly Lanoguarded and Snake Oil treated the suspension arm or arms and completely ignored the very rusty proverbial Elephant in the room right beside it.

 

I would be looking at the exhaust clamp, all the suspension bolts that will at some time need removing to replace shock absorbers and springs, the front & rear brake disc backplates and the inside hidden friction face of the brake discs, these are all areas where corrosion has caused me problems or cost money.

 

Also look for zinc inclusion scabbing on the door bottoms, almost certainly likely to be present, if not look for repairs, overspray etc.

 I noticed a small area of blistering on the bottom of the drivers door that I assume is zinc inclusion. I was fortunate that my pre Yeti didn’t suffer from this.

 

Whats the best way to treat it before it gets worse? Is it a manufacturer issue and dealt with by the dealer under the paint warranty?

[J.R.]

My best way is to ignore it.

 

No idea whether it should be included under the paint warranty other than feeling that you are setting yourself up for no end of grief and negative feelings.

[Ootohere]

Bump for @West-Cork