JUMP LEADS ADVICE

[BaldrickG]

Hey all!

 

Sadly my mkII 1.9l diesel Octavia has a dead battery, and I need to get some jump leads - any recommendations on the amps or brands?
 

Thanks!

[nta16]

I'd go for something like the AA (EAN: 5060114614550).  You want them thick enough for load and not overlarge clips otherwise they can be difficult to get on some vehicles because of the space available on the battery post clamps.  Just an example supplier. - https://www.argos.co.uk/product/7847998

 

Do follow the AA guide to using them to be sure. - https://www.theaa.com/breakdown-cover/advice/using-jump-leads

 

If you have a "dead" battery then you will also want to fully recharge it with an appropriate sized battery changer and maintainer (lower amperage better than higher amperage but takes longer, time and patience required and often out of stock with many people).

 

Check your 'Owner's Manual' for jumping the car and charging the battery. 

 

Really you should borrow some appropriate jump leads as you should never really need them again with proper preventative use of an appropriate battery charger and maintainer, if it's someone else that has let the battery go flat then make them pay for the leads (unless it's your life partner then say nothing!).

 

Edited 20 April, 2023 by nta16
spelling

[Warrior193]

An alternative worth consideration - a 12 volt portable power pack, some come with a tyre compressor, USB connecter and cigarette type socket.  

[EnterName]

16 hours ago, BaldrickG said:

Hey all!

 

Sadly my mkII 1.9l diesel Octavia has a dead battery, and I need to get some jump leads - any recommendations on the amps or brands?
 

Thanks!

I understand the reflexive reaction to reach for the jump leads as a solution, but...first you need to know why you have a flat battery.

Is your can being regularly used?

Is your battery being charged correctly by the car?

Is the battery faulty?

 

Jump leads will get you out of a tight corner, but it's worth making sure your car battery is healthy and the car is charging it correctly.

[BaldrickG]

Thanks all! Helpful suggestions all round.

 

Battery not fully dead, I should clarify. The electrics work, but trying to start the car makes that horrid wrenching noise that says the battery is too low. Effectively it just slowly discharged over time, which is totally my fault (annoyingly!)  - it's been a very very busy time for me, and the car simply hasn't been for much at all in months, including not once in the last 5 weeks. This has included a few very cold snaps up here in Edinburgh...!

 

So my secondary concern is getting the car back to good shape for a summer of heavy use, after sitting for so long. Fuel injector cleaner with the next tank of fuel, and will give her a full service in 6 weeks when I'm moved out of Edinburgh and back to the countryside. Not to hijack my own thread, but any great tips on that are all welcome.

[nta16]

1 hour ago, BaldrickG said:

Effectively it just slowly discharged over time,

If it was a long slow discharge then a long slow recharge would be better, using an appropriate battery charger and maintainer, 4-amp  charger better than 6-amp and 1, 2 or 3amp better than 4-amp

 

 

1 hour ago, BaldrickG said:

Fuel injector cleaner with the next tank of fuel,

5 weeks isn't a long time, don't bother with fuel injector cleaner just fill the tank with Tesco Momentum 99 for petrol or Shell V-Power Diesel for the cleaning additive packages.  Check your air filter and air box and trunking and hoses to engine are clean and free of debris (perhaps same for cabin filter), change filter(s) if required.

 

Once the battery is fully charged, with the engine running test all electric motors to full, heater flaps and blower, wipers, door windows (etc. if any).  Go for an easy test run then if everything on the car is OK fill with tankful of fuel(s) mentioned, get the engine and whole car fully warmed up then go for a full blow out run of a reasonable distance using acceleration, gears, brakes, steering and suspension (good A or B roads, revs more than silly speeds).

 

I recommend you fill with a couple tank fulls of the mentioned fuels before, during and after a service and/or MoT.

 

A full service is for the whole car rather than just the engine and I've never seen one listed for a modern Skoda on here but it would include the obvious engine oil & oil filter change, sparkplugs, fuel filter as appropriate, and other stuff but important is checking brakes, steering and suspension (all three include tyres), brake fluid and all safety important electrics.

 

Much servicing, maintenance and repairs can boil down to clean and lubricate (engine oil & filter, filters even spark plug replacement,  hinges and door and window seals - the tickbox list for a "full" service could be very long or as long as you want it or are prepared to pay, the VWSkoda Dealership lists cover the minimum requirements with sometimes some unnecessary extras throw in for revenue and profit.

 

Edited 21 April, 2023 by nta16
missing words

[nta16]

If you gave more detail about your car in your posts and/or nameplate then others could give more info on servicing, the engine type or better still code, the type of gearbox, perhaps trim level.  In posts mileage, service history, recent work done, not done.

 

 

[J.R.]

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

Edited 2 hours ago by nta16
missing words

 

Like looking for a needle in a haystack I would have thought.

 

3 hours ago, nta16 said:

if it was a long slow discharge then a long slow recharge would be better, using an appropriate battery charger and maintainer, 4-amp  charger better than 6-amp and 1, 2 or 3amp better than 4-amp

 

You really have got to stop trotting out this nonsense.

[nta16]

13 hours ago, J.R. said:

You really have got to stop trotting out this nonsense.

So you repeatedly keep telling me over and over and over  .   .   .

 

Yet you agreed with the other sour complainant on here, when he was proved wrong about something else I put, when he wrote "right and wrong is for vicars and tarts", you seem to want it both ways or more accurately what suits you.

 

As the other bitter and twister poster put - "Stick it up on Moneysupermarket then".

 

[skomaz]

Getting back to the subject matter...   Just buy some heavy duty ones rather that thinner light duty ones and you'll be fine. 

[J.R.]

Be aware that many of the thicker ones (always marked heavy duty like all batteries!) are simply very impressive looking clamps but with tiny sometimes not even copper conductors covered in far thicker insulation than is needed, the clamps will be moulded in such a way that you cannot see the conductor termination.

[skomaz]

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

Be aware that many of the thicker ones (always marked heavy duty like all batteries!) are simply very impressive looking clamps but with tiny sometimes not even copper conductors covered in far thicker insulation than is needed, the clamps will be moulded in such a way that you cannot see the conductor termination.

 

Fair point...   Mine are DIY ones made from high amperage welding cable 😀

[J.R.]

Mine too! made back in 1977 when I was an apprentice, the cables are doubled up on each one, crappy looking Croc clips though as back then you only had the choice of what you could buy locally or liberate from work.

 

They have never failed to pass the current though so looks can be decieving, back then things were made to work and not just look like they will.