Hello all,

 

I seem to recall others having had issues with their car, after replacing a battery.

 

Does the ‘coding’ need to be done if not replacing like-for-like? Or is coding needed with a like-for-like replacement?

 

I have replaced batteries on every car before, but the coding query on the Superb puts me off.

 

Alternatively can anyone just replace the battery, or does it need to be a dealer.

 

2016 Superb Mk3 Hatch, circa 103k miles

After disconnecting and putting in a new battery, u'll get a bunch of errors, but all u need to do is drive around for 15 mins n they'll clear.

 

With coding, even if u r replace it with the exact same battery specs, u should still code it in so the car knows u have a new battery, and it will adapt the charging pattern to suit.

People usually put in the date as a new serial number, e.g. 22072023.

26 minutes ago, JR RS said:

After disconnecting and putting in a new battery, u'll get a bunch of errors, but all u need to do is drive around for 15 mins n they'll clear.

 

With coding, even if u r replace it with the exact same battery specs, u should still code it in so the car knows u have a new battery, and it will adapt the charging pattern to suit.

People usually put in the date as a new serial number, e.g. 22072023.

Thank you. I suppose this would not be a service that would be done by the likes of a Halfords Mobile fitter?

 

Would this need to be done at a dealers?

This may help for correct coding :

 

 

23 minutes ago, mangham54 said:

Thank you. I suppose this would not be a service that would be done by the likes of a Halfords Mobile fitter?

 

Would this need to be done at a dealers?

A mobile fitter should be able to do it, and usually it is part of the fitting price (as it is enabling it to work properly).   They just need to plug in a cheap laptop with relevant programs for couple of minutes.   Might be sensible to check ahead of appointment if it is not mentioned.

 

To some extent not doing it would be on a par with a mobile tyre fitter changing tyres and then not putting air in them.   Shouldn't happen because fitted is deemed to make it usable and operational.

 

2 hours ago, SurreyJohn said:

To some extent not doing it would be on a par with a mobile tyre fitter changing tyres and then not putting air in them

Or National Tyres (now part of Halfrauds of course), who decided my wife’s Fucus needed 50psi all round when I had them all replaced a couple of years ago…

4 hours ago, mangham54 said:

I suppose this would not be a service that would be done by the likes of a Halfords Mobile fitter?

Halfords fit my new battery for £25, but in the shop.

For a like-for-like battery replacement, coding may not be necessary. However, if the new battery differs from the original, coding might be required.

12 minutes ago, katiemolina43 said:

For a like-for-like battery replacement, coding may not be necessary. However, if the new battery differs from the original, coding might be required.

 

Not strictly true, see post #2 above.

1 hour ago, katiemolina43 said:

For a like-for-like battery replacement, coding may not be necessary. However, if the new battery differs from the original, coding might be required.

 

 

If u don't do any coding, even if it's the exact same make & specs, there is no way the car will know u have a new battery, and will continue to charge/condition the battery as if it's the old one.

This is not good for a new/fresh battery that needs to have different charging cycle.

 

Sure, the new battery will work, ur car will work normally, but in the end, ur doing the new battery a disservice, and reducing the longevity of the new battery.

Edited 24 July, 20232 yr by JR RS

On 22/07/2023 at 09:50, JR RS said:

After disconnecting and putting in a new battery, u'll get a bunch of errors, but all u need to do is drive around for 15 mins n they'll clear.

 

With coding, even if u r replace it with the exact same battery specs, u should still code it in so the car knows u have a new battery, and it will adapt the charging pattern to suit.

People usually put in the date as a new serial number, e.g. 22072023.

No need to even drive the car to clear the errors

 

simply start the engine

slowly turn the steering lock to lock

back to centre with the steering

ignition off

ignition on 

sorted  

 

Spot on with the battery adaptations being required though 

Thank you for the comments made in this thread. I had a new battery fitted today to my Octavia 1.2 TSI, this was an AGM to replace the original EFB which was completely dead, so I needed a mobile service to install a new one. I decided on Halford as their batteries have a 5 year guarantee. Before I ordered the battery I went to a Halfords store and asked if the battery would require coding if purchased through them. They said that they could code it, if it needed it. After research on here and Youtube, I made my mind up that it would. For example the battery would need to coded with the option of "fleece". 

 

The mobile fitter arrived today. I asked if the battery would need to be coded in, as the car had battery management, etc. He said that after x number of years of fitting batteries on VW, he has never coded a battery. I again said that I had seen on You Tube that Halford batteries had been coded, he ignored my comments. After the fitment, all he did was that stated above, to cancel the error codes, ie start engine, wheels to the right and wheels to the left. That was his £27 worth done.

 

Would I now be sensible to go to the local Halfords store and query the fact that the battery was not coded, so I can get it coded and t extends the battery life, and makes sure that nothing malfunctions, as it was not coded.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

1 hour ago, pgvonline said:

Would I now be sensible to go to the local Halfords store and query the fact that the battery was not coded, so I can get it coded and t extends the battery life, and makes sure that nothing malfunctions, as it was not coded.

 

Yes, especially as you have gone from an EFB to an AGM type.

 

 

Maybe don't use Halfrauds again.

 

Thanks. AG Falco

On 24/07/2023 at 14:51, ApertureS said:

No need to even drive the car to clear the errors

 

simply start the engine

slowly turn the steering lock to lock

back to centre with the steering

ignition off

ignition on 

sorted  

 

Spot on with the battery adaptations being required though 

My replacement battery was fitted by Halfords mobile fitter, I paid for it to be fitted as I thought it had to be coded.

They didn't.

Start engine, lots of errors, steering lock to lock, errors cleared.

I connected my CTEK charger overnight, no issues since.

7 hours ago, Q102 said:

My replacement battery was fitted by Halfords mobile fitter, I paid for it to be fitted as I thought it had to be coded.

They didn't.

Start engine, lots of errors, steering lock to lock, errors cleared.

I connected my CTEK charger overnight, no issues since.

You wont see any visible errors. The battery still needs to be coded correctly. 

The errors relating to steering are different and are expected.

 

Regarding your charger - where specifically are you connecting the terminals of the battery charger? I hope not directly to the battery negative post.

I went to the local Halford store today. Yes they confirmed that the new battery should be coded in. They checked the new battery and coded it in. It was via an IMAT device. Can only hope this coded it correctly.

And they changed the coding for the new battery fitted to your car from an EFB to an AGM type?

 

Thanks. AG Falco

16 hours ago, ApertureS said:

You wont see any visible errors. The battery still needs to be coded correctly. 

The errors relating to steering are different and are expected.

 

Regarding your charger - where specifically are you connecting the terminals of the battery charger? I hope not directly to the battery negative post.

Charger was connected as advised in the owners manual (yes, I did read it😂)

Before battery was changed the STOP/Start never worked, we were heading off to the Alps for a skiing holiday, so car would be sat in minus quite a lot at 1500m all week. I was also getting the engine management light after starting the engine.

Battery fitted, SS working, no issues when parked for a week, no issues since.

On 08/08/2023 at 15:50, ApertureS said:

Regarding your charger - where specifically are you connecting the terminals of the battery charger? I hope not directly to the battery negative post.

Why is this not advisable, AS?
I only ask as the CTEK connectors supplied with their chargers are designed to fit directly to the battery terminal clamps, although I’ve always charged it via the 12v socket in the boot. 

2 hours ago, numskull said:

Why is this not advisable, AS?
I only ask as the CTEK connectors supplied with their chargers are designed to fit directly to the battery terminal clamps, although I’ve always charged it via the 12v socket in the boot. 

If you connect straight to the negative terminal you bypass the current monitor and the battery monitor can’t track how charged/discharged the battery is 

2 hours ago, numskull said:

Why is this not advisable, AS?
I only ask as the CTEK connectors supplied with their chargers are designed to fit directly to the battery terminal clamps, although I’ve always charged it via the 12v socket in the boot. 

 

I have a CTEK MX5.0 and the user manual explicitly says to connect the charger's negative wire to the chassis.

It says the negative connection must b away/remote from the battery.

 

Edited 19 October, 20232 yr by JR RS

Sorry, I should’ve been clearer; it’s the permanent connector I was referring to, not the charging clamps which, of course, means the illustration totally contradicts the text. 🙄

5 hours ago, numskull said:

Sorry, I should’ve been clearer; it’s the permanent connector I was referring to, not the charging clamps which, of course, means the illustration totally contradicts the text. 🙄

 

It applies to the "permanent", i.e. Comfort Connect too!!

I use the Comfort Connect and it's negative connection is on the chassis.

There is a negative chassis connection point on the firewall behind the battery.  

 

The key here is that ur battery is "mounted inside a vehicle" at all times, unless u physically take it out to charge it each time!

 

I highly recommend u use that chassis point.

 

 

Edited 19 October, 20232 yr by JR RS

5 hours ago, numskull said:

Sorry, I should’ve been clearer; it’s the permanent connector I was referring to, not the charging clamps which, of course, means the illustration totally contradicts the text. 🙄

This still should not be connected to the negative terminals.

Cheers both. 👍🏻