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ABS-sensor error, possible to swap wires to troubleshoot?

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I got a simple diagnose tool that reports that the rear left abs-sensor has feiled.  Changed the sensor, and reset the error, but it came back immediately. Where is the ABS-ECU located? Is it possible to swap two of the sensor wires to check if the error moves to the other sensor? If it does the problem should be in a wire or maybe the sensor ring?

Edited by cyberkul
typo

If it came back immediately without driving the car it will be the wiring.

 

I had endless problems with the NSF on my Octavia and replacing the cable was the only solution in the end.

13 hours ago, cyberkul said:

Changed the sensor, and reset the error, but it came back immediately.

Wiring, not sensor then. The code tells you which corner to check rather than what the fault is.

  • Author

Thanks!

I wasn't precise enough when I said "immediately", I drow a few meters before the error reappeared. At the rear the wiring looks very clean, and the connectors are dry and no visible corrosion. Do you know where the wires are terminated in the opposite end?

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The wires will go direct to the ABS module, but without car details I can't tell you which pin numbers. There are a few different sets of circuit info over the years of mk2 production, and a few different versions of ABS system in each.

18 hours ago, cyberkul said:

Is it possible to swap two of the sensor wires to check if the error moves to the other sensor?

 

Only if each sensor has about 1.5 metres of slack cable.

 

The sensors are handed and cant be swopped side to side but might be common front to rear.

  • Author

It's a 2007 model 4x4. I didn't mean to swap the sensors, but the connectors that are connected to the ABS-module. I don't know where this module is, so I don't know if each wire has its own connecor, and if these connectors are the same. I know you can swap the sensors between front and rear, but I have already replaced both rear sensors

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If your ABS module connector has two rows of pins (26 way) then the rear left sensor wires into pins 3 (black wire) and pin 2 (brown wire)

If it has 3 rows of pins (47-way) the rear left sensor goes into pins 36 (black) and 37 (brown).

 

Equivalent pin numbers for rear right sensor are 11 and 12 of 26-way or 43 and 42 of 47-way. Both again black and brown respectively.

 

 

 

Location : see item 3

 

 

 

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Edited by Breezy_Pete

  • Author

Excellent, many thanks🙂

  • Author

Disconnected the connector today. Looked rather clean. A small damage to the insulation on the black wire for sensor 1, if this is pin no 3? Applid some 5-56, and reseated the connector. Resat the 00290 error, and drove for a short trip. The esp light flashed when I turned into the street after about 50 meters. Then I drive a few hundred neters to a roundabout, and the esp lighr flad'shed again. Then both abs and esp light came on, and stayed on. Maybe the magnet ring is the likely problem here? IMG_9203.thumb.jpeg.184c85f9ffa9ae19afad110b86a483f3.jpeg

IMG_9200.jpeg

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Next pair of black and brown to the right of the arrowed pair, I think.

You have 3 rows of connections, so left rear is pins 36 (black wire) and 37 (brown).

Edited by Breezy_Pete

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Edited by Breezy_Pete

  • Author

Ah, yes I see, thanks!

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

Finished replacing the wheelbearing today, and the abs-error is gone😀Unfortunately, I discovered a small diesel leak. A drop now and then. It comes from somewhere above the big plastic cover at the right of the car, about  between the doors.

Whip the cover off to inspect, the nuts are plastic so no need to worry about rust.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

Removed the plastic cover today. After some cleaning it seems that the leak is from one of the tubes to the fuel cooler.  Not sure if it`s repairable, tubes seems to be aluminum. How do I disconnect the black plastic connections from the tubes?  Will fuel leak from the connections when disconnected? Is the cooler really necessary?

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It's unlikely that the pipe has fractured, more likely the connector seal has gone bad or is just unseated.

 

I would thoroughly clean the area with a solvent and plastic bristled brush to assess further where the leak is occurring, WD-40, petrol and toothbrush.

 

IIRC the connectors just pull off when you depress the blue tabs, I expect you'll get ~0.5l of diesel spilling but it may flow more due to the siphoning effect, you can plug the ends temporarily with tightly wadded workshop/kitchen tissue.

 

It may just be a connector became loose, thoroughly clean connector and pipe end looking closely for dirt, corrosion or wear from vibration that would affect the seal.

 

Unused diesel is returned to the tank, if it weren't cooled it could potentially become quite warm and fumey.  IMO not that it's a safety issue just that it prevents excessive fuel venting from the filler cap and to the environment.

  • Author

Thanks 🙂 

Yes, strange if the pipe has fractured, but there is no drop on the connectors, or the last few cm of pipe before the connectors. If it`s a leaking connector, it seems from the parts catalogue that you have to replace the fuel line with connectors, not just the seal?  I`ll clean some more, and try to reseat the connectors.

 

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Sounds like an unusual failure of the cooler. Maybe investigate prices of a secondhand replacement?

 

  • Author

Yes, I should remove the cooler first to make sure that there is a crack. Hopefully the same cooler is used in many Skodas, so it is easier to find..

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