Probably would want the gasket that goes from cat to front pipe, and possibly the dual sleeve coupler that links front to mid-section of exhaust. That way you can completely remove exhaust front section out the way for sump removal.

Coupler is likely to be beyond re-use unless very recent.

 

A (long handled) counter-hold tool for the crank pulley.

New bolt for that pulley.

 

Do you have a workshop manual? 

8 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Probably would want the gasket that goes from cat to front pipe, and possibly the dual sleeve coupler that links front to mid-section of exhaust. That way you can completely remove exhaust front section out the way for sump removal.

Coupler is likely to be beyond re-use unless very recent.

 

A (long handled) counter-hold tool for the crank pulley.

New bolt for that pulley.

 

Do you have a workshop manual? 

Thanks.

 

I replaced the exhaust centre sleeve when I changed the gear lever housing a month or so ago so hopefully will be fine. Will get a cat to front pipe gasket.

 

Have a pulley holding tool but will need to order a new crank pulley bolt.

 

Have the proper manual and have printed everything off to have a read...

Note that the timing chain cover has a couple of dowel pins that mean it has to come away horizontally once all bolts are out.

 

Remind me, is this a single or dual cam 1.2?

18 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Remind me, is this a single or dual cam 1.2?

 

Single cam

Makes life a teeny bit simpler. 

Take pics as you go if poss, and post here later for others' benefit.

 

A cardboard sheet with an outline of the timing cover drawn on it makes a nice safe storage and position identification of all the many different screws that have to come out.

Will do, should probably start a new thread with an appropriate title.

 

Everything ordered, car will be freed from duties by 2nd October so plan on starting as soon after that as I have time!

I am well on with this and will start a new thread to detail everything. Exhaust valves are boggered!!

 

Just have a couple of questions:

 

- Timing cover and sump appear to be a silicon based sealant, cam cover appears to be something very hard and difficult to remove. What are the suggested options for reassembly please?

 

- Does the camshaft sprocket bolt need replacing? (I have a new crank bolt)

 

Many thanks

I've never heard of a 6V engine that DIDN'T eat its exhaust valves, you don't need to replace the sprocket bolt but most people on this forum operate using the precautionary principle because they're old and mad so you might get conflicting advice!

1 minute ago, sepulchrave said:

I've never heard of a 6V engine that DIDN'T eat its exhaust valves, you don't need to replace the sprocket bolt but most people on this forum operate using the precautionary principle because they're old and mad so you might get conflicting advice!

Thanks, I am old...... probably considered mad......but skint, so I shall re-use the bolt.

 

I can give you the OE part numbers for the various sealants which will allow cross-reference to aftermarket if you like?

 

What torque plus angle are you aiming to do the crank bolt to? Spec changed at some point, if you follow the later suggestion with a reused bolt, it would be a very bold move.

Just now, Breezy_Pete said:

I can give you the OE part numbers for the various sealants which will allow cross-reference to aftermarket if you like?

That would be great thanks

 

1 minute ago, Breezy_Pete said:

What torque plus angle are you aiming to do the crank bolt to? Spec changed at some point, if you follow the later suggestion with a reused bolt, it would be a very bold move.

Cam sprocket bolt is what I will be re-using, I have a new crank pulley bolt.

 

Thanks

Just now, Andy_Viking said:

Cam sprocket bolt is what I will be re-using, I have a new crank pulley bolt

Ah, I misread, fair play.

Sealant numbers in a bit...

Timing case sealant: D 174 003 A2

 

Sump sealant: D 176 600 A1

 

Cam carrier sealant D 154 103 A1

 

F knows why they're all different.

 

That is one sad exhaust valve! Were the other two similar but not so bad? 

39 minutes ago, Andy_Viking said:

Thanks, I am old...... probably considered mad......but skint, so I shall re-use the bolt.

 

In my experience those who admit madness usually aren't, those who don't usually are.

 

A sort of Catch 22 test if you like...

42 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

...if you follow the later suggestion with a reused bolt, it would be a very bold move.

 

Oh look, here comes the electrical guy with the auto-contradict setting switched on...

52 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Timing case sealant: D 174 003 A2

 

Sump sealant: D 176 600 A1

 

Cam carrier sealant D 154 103 A1

 

F knows why they're all different.

 

That is one sad exhaust valve! Were the other two similar but not so bad? 

Thanks for the info.

 

I get why the cam carrier sealant is different as it has to produce a very thin seal as the bearings are within the cover itself. Original stuff was very hard, almost like a varnish.

 

The other two lead to very similar (or in some cases the same) alternatives and I can't see much difference in the specs so will just go with one option for the timing cover and sump.

 

That is valve #3, #2 was fairly similar and #1 not quite so bad...

Edited 9 October, 20232 yr by Andy_Viking

18 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

In my experience those who admit madness usually aren't, those who don't usually are.

 

A sort of Catch 22 test if you like...

That's why I said probably considered mad, (by others), I myself think I am totally sane and everyone else around me is totally out of synch

Nice to see you in full 'auto-offence' mode as usual sep. 

45 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Nice to see you in full 'auto-offence' mode as usual sep. 

 

It's not automatic, it's reciprocative, even though I know you can't help yourself.

Gosh, you're right, I'm the devil.

4 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Gosh, you're right, I'm the devil.

 

You're not that bad...

So I have gone for this for the cam cover:-

 

https://www.elring.fr/CELUM/10008/10019/EL-Liq_73_TDB_2021_EN.pdf

 

and this for the timing cover and sump:-

 

https://digital-assets.tecalliance.services/pdf/50ddcc684a7ef2592874740f31a675403c1f6555.pdf?response-content-disposition=inline%3Bfilename%3DTDB_DIRKO_HT_OXIM_EN.PDF

 

 

Looks good, I particularly like the Elring jizz, good price? Loctite products can be so crazy expensive.

21 hours ago, Andy_Viking said:

I get why the cam carrier sealant is different as it has to produce a very thin seal as the bearings are within the cover itself

This makes good sense. 

 

It's more cost, but I wonder if it's worth replacing the thermostat and associated flange while you're at it, to possibly improve head temperatures if the original isn't opening as early/wide as it oughta? The o-ring that seals the flange to the end of the head may have lost its compliance and fail to reseal if it has been removed, which I assume it has?

 

2 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

good price?

The anaerobic stuff isn't cheap, was £16 from an obscure place, mostly around £23 ish.

 

The Silicon is on special at GSF at the moment, just under £7 a tube.