1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

It's more cost, but I wonder if it's worth replacing the thermostat and associated flange while you're at it, to possibly improve head temperatures if the original isn't opening as early/wide as it oughta? The o-ring that seals the flange to the end of the head may have lost its compliance and fail to reseal if it has been removed, which I assume it has?

 

Probably worth it, I don't suppose you have the part numbers for the thermostat and seal please? I can see different looking ones and I don't want to really buy the whole plastic housing...

 

I have the housing to head seal.

Items 24 and 25 here:

 

 

Maybe compare room temperature pin protrusion of the current one with images in listings for new ones? If the current one's pin looks further in, chances are some of the wax has escaped. If not, maybe no need to replace?

 

I'll stick a new one in. Once it is all done and working fine it will be going back to my daughter who lives about 2.5 hours away so want it as reliable as possible.

 

Is that parts software available? Looks really useful...

Partslink24, subscription only.

This one's freely available at the moment though, and up-to-date I think - LLLParts

LLL let's you enter a VIN, but it doesn't filter the results accordingly.

 

Edited 11 October, 20232 yr by Breezy_Pete

Bit of an urgent question please:-

 

My copy of the workshop repair guide has a clear error in it and I am wondering which part is correct.

 

Crank pulley bolt torque, it states 150Nm plus a further 180 degrees (1/4 turn) which is clearly a contradiction!

 

Can anyone verify if it should be 180 degrees - 1/2 turn, or 90 degrees - 1/4 turn?

 

1.2 CHFA 6 valve

 

Thanks

150Nm + 180° in the official manual. 

Difficult without help on the counterhold tool.

Thanks. I think the ground will be my friend for the counterholding!

 

All else fails I'll counterhold it and wind it up with my big driver.

Ugh so annoying, I thought I had everything I needed. Just putting the timing cover back on and noticed the oil pump chain has been eating away at the timing cover so need a new oil pump chain and tensioner grrrrrrrrrrrrr

 

Do these normally wear at the same rate as the timing chain? Timing chain was pretty bad such that I couldn't quite get both timing tools in and the old tensioner was at full stretch.

 

Oh and part numbers would be massively appreciated please...

Edited 21 October, 20232 yr by Andy_Viking
Extra info

Oil pump, chain/tensioner stuff here: LLLParts

Pump chain kit finally arrived, interestingly the sprocket is a genuine one with the VWAG text ground off!

 

So hopefully up and running this weekend...

 

Just thinking about the crank bolt and struggling getting my head around the theory of the counter-holding tool. I know it works, but how, when you are countering the torque of tightening the bolt using something attached to the pulley which is not keyed into the crackshaft which you are tightening against...

Edited 27 October, 20232 yr by Andy_Viking

1 hour ago, Andy_Viking said:

Pump chain kit finally arrived, interestingly the sprocket is a genuine one with the VWAG text ground off!

 

So hopefully up and running this weekend...

 

Just thinking about the crank bolt and struggling getting my head around the theory of the counter-holding tool. I know it works, but how, when you are countering the torque of tightening the bolt using something attached to the pulley which is not keyed into the crackshaft which you are tightening against...

 

An interference fit gets tight extremely quickly, so as the bolt starts to get tighter the pulley is already binding, think about a track rod end, as soon as the nut starts to tighten the taper is already locked in place.

Just to update this, after a month's use everything seems to be pretty spot on, starts and runs really well and feels much happier.

 

Thanks for the help along the way.

Nice one. Wondered how you got on. 👍

Well this tale may have a sorry ending. My daughter has used the car for a happy 30,000 miles but yesterday it misfired, rapidly declined to not running. RAC came out and a big bit of ceramic is missing off #2 plug, 6 month old plugs, very annoying.

New plugs fitted and apparantly runs like a bag of nails.

I am getting the car recovered from Bristol to Nottingham and I'll do a compression test but I expect the engine is done :(

Edited 17 July, 202517 Jul by Andy_Viking

RIP