A run of around 10 miles, in several stages today, was enough to trigger the Stop/Start to work, again, even in the dark with the headlights on. I'm impressed, but don't understand what  improvement the intelligent charger has been able to make to the system.

You have put more charge into the battery.  As long as the battery holds the charge and/or you are not depleting the battery storage to how it was previously the start/stop should work (when it should) and you'll not get that and possibly other warnings.

 

Running the battery down low does it no favours, doing it too much and/or too often will weaken it and make it difficult to recover it as much as if you didn't.

 

Think of preventative charging or a battery maintainer or disconnecting the battery if the car isn't going to be used for weeks on end, that will extend the use and life of your existing battery and its replacement.

 

Don't wait for warning lights or messages to come on, be proactive rather than reactive.

 

Or buy a new battery and have to do less, until the cycle begins again.

 

Good luck.

 

Edited 22 December, 20232 yr by nta16

Hi, I own a Skoda rapid 2016 92KW 1.4tsi Spaceback Monte Carlo model. It has auto start stop function but it is fitted with a conventional battery from previous owner which is causing problems with idling and stalling and doesn’t support start stop function. Can someone suggest a battery either EFB or AGM that it needs to run normal.

thanks in advance.

4 hours ago, Vam said:

Hi, I own a Skoda rapid 2016 92KW 1.4tsi Spaceback Monte Carlo model. It has auto start stop function but it is fitted with a conventional battery from previous owner which is causing problems with idling and stalling and doesn’t support start stop function. Can someone suggest a battery either EFB or AGM that it needs to run normal.

thanks in advance.

 

ALL stop/start systems require either an EFB or an AGM battery....Bosch/Varta are the best & actually the same company....

 

Varta who make some of the batteries for VAG confirmed that standard battery case sizes are used to make the VAG factory batteries, but that the Ah capacities are “special” to VAG for those case sizes. Basically, VAG are confusing us to make sure we end up buying a direct replacement battery from them when in fact a standard battery which is available from any auto parts supplier will fit & do the job!!

 

You also need to code the BCM....

 

ALL info on battery types & coding in my thread on this other forum:-

 

How to retro-fit a bigger capacity battery to a Mk7 Golf | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum

 

E.F.B. (Enhanced Flooded Battery):- These usually have two times (x2) the cycle starts compared to a standard battery. They are still a standard lead acid battery (hybrid version), so cannot be held upside down & will leak if the case is broken. Basically, the car industry wanted a cheaper version of the AGM battery for the Stop-Start engine technology. EFB is the result!

A.G.M. (Absorbent Glass Mat) batteries:- These were fitted to the early Stop/Start (BlueMotion) systems, & usually have three times (x3) the cycle starts compared to a standard lead acid battery. In these the liquids have been absorbed by a framework of glass fibre mats. There is no liquid to move around, so they can be held upside down, & are leakproof if the case is broken! These are the safest in a crash which is why they have been used in racing/rallying for years! Unfortunately, they can be more prone to heat damage (see below on heat shield) than the other types of battery, & they are more expensive! These batteries require specific battery chargers/conditions that will work with AGM batteries.
 

 

VCDS coding required
From the Main screen:-
Select Control Module [Select]
[19-CAN Gateway]
Advanced Functions screen:-
[Adaptions-10]
New value choice screen:-
Change the following four channels, inputting the relevant data about the new battery.
IDE03256-MAS06105-Battery adaptation-Rated battery capacity
IDE03256-MAS06106-Battery adaptation-Battery technology
IDE03256-MAS06107-Battery adaptation-Battery manufacturer
IDE03256-MAS06108-Battery adaptation-Battery Serial Number

When you click on "Battery technology" (using VCDS 21.3.0) a drop down list appears with the following options (= actual meaning):-
Wet = Standard Lead Acid
Fleece = Standard A.G.M.
Wickel6V
Wickel12V
Ultracap
Gel = Standard Gel Lead Acid
Lithium ions = Standard LiFePO4
EFB = Standard E.F.B.
Binary - AGM = "Bipolar" A.G.M. type
EFB+ = E.F.B. "Plus" type
Not_assigned_10
Not_assigned_11
Not_assigned_12
Not_assigned_13
Not_assigned_14
Unknown

According to various sources of information, including numerous car scans & threads on Ross-Tech, "Fleece" is for standard AGM batteries, "EFB" is for standard EFB batteries, & "Wet" is for standard lead acid batteries, as these settings are used at the factory. The setting of "Binary - AGM" is apparently for specialist "Bipolar AGM" batteries! Also the drop down list is from VCDS & not generated by your car's BCM, therefore, your car may not support all the options on the list, & the BCM will reject the value when you tell it to accept it!

Battery BEM codes are now redundant with the above separate channels. The most important channels are:- Rated battery capacity, Battery technology, & Battery Serial Number. For the Battery Serial Number, just change one digit of the old one. This channel tells the BCM that a new battery has been installed & to relearn the new battery & forget any “learnt values” for the old battery!

Edited 8 January, 20242 yr by fabdavrav

@Vam as above best to have a EFB or AGM battery and 'coded' correctly particularly if you want or have to have the stop/start system active.

 

But an alternative in short or medium or perhaps long term, depending on how old your conventional battery is and its life's use and abuse you could retain it for longer (or much longer) by charging it up and if your state laws allow it disconnecting the battery monitor connection at the negative battery connection so that the stop/start system is inactive.

 

VCDS isn't the only system that can do the battery coding, basically as put before you want the Ah of the battery correct (or near enough perhaps) and the type e.g EFB/AGM (fleece) and change the "serial number" often/sometimes(?) ten ones (1111111111) from the VW's factory, the make is of battery can be left the same or ignored, JCB from factory and to five characters in the name code in my example below done with an OBDEleven computer program.

 

 

I have no idea if the VW computer programs would allow you to 'code' on VCDS or the VW 'coding' programs to conventional battery and get it charged through the car's battery computer program but if it didn't make the stop/start inactive you would want to otherwise it would get through a conventional battery quicker.

 

Thanks for the response.

 

My mech had changed the battery and fitted a new EFB battery. But he said it doesn’t require programming or registration.

 

EPC light still comes and goes and Auto Start/Stop still doesn’t work. Car behave sluggish during idle intermittently. Cam and crankshaft sensor errors also throw up and car makes whirring noise during the start and goes off intermittently after engine heat up.

 

He scanned for error codes and got “oil pressure regulator valve error”.

 

He said he will try to program and register it tomorrow.

 

Engine light blinking and misfires still happen intermittently even after replacing the battery.

 

Will update tomorrow. Thanks.

 

 

35 minutes ago, Vam said:

 

My mech had changed the battery and fitted a new EFB battery. But he said it doesn’t require programming or registration.

 

 

Find a new tech....

 

As per my comment above....This applies to ALL cars with the "stop/start" eco function....

 

Even if the new battery is the exact same type/capacity/brand as the original factory one, you still need to alter the code line "serial number" by one digit to "tell" the BCM that a new battery has been installed & for it to forget all the old learnt values as a nice new battery has been installed.

 

 

39 minutes ago, Vam said:

My mech had changed the battery and fitted a new EFB battery. But he said it doesn’t require programming or registration.

I would disagree with your mech.

 

If the battery is exactly the same specs (type, Ah, etc.), then you should at least just change the serial number so that the BMS can  know a new battery is fitted straight away - yes it will learn over a longish period but surely you want to be able to use the full capability of a new battery you've just paid $$$ for straight away?

 

If the battery has different specs then you IMHO must tell the BMS the new specs ASAP.

3 hours ago, Vam said:

He scanned for error codes and got “oil pressure regulator valve error”.

 

He said he will try to program and register it tomorrow.

Does this mean program and register the oil pressure regulator valve, or the new EFB battery or both?

 

I can't see the point of a tech fitting a new battery and having an appropriate scan tool for the job and not doing at least changing the serial number and it would be good if he gave you a report of the car as it is when he first scanned it showing battery details and all error codes and then another report after he 'codes' for the new battery and has deleted all error codes that will delete.

 

There was a chap with another model who despite having an appropriate scan tool left the battery change and coding to a professional auto-electrician and months later was on the forum because of battery and other problems and  he followed the suggestion of checking the battery 'coding' to find the professional auto-electrician had made the mistake of entering 7 Ah instead of 70 Ah (why the computer program allowed this is another mistake to me).  The chap fitted a new battery and 'coded' it himself and his problems went away.

 

I am not saying that all your problems, or possibly any of them, are now related to the battery 'coding' because I and others can't see the information or known what the tech has fully done or not done and you might have more than one issue with the car but personally I would want to be shown or emailed a a scan report showing the present battery coding and preferably also a scan report from the first scan as we can all make mistakes and I see no reason why a tech should not give you such information.  It should be saved on his machine particularly if his repairs and (hopefully) diagnosis is ongoing.

 

A scan tool is another diagnosis tool that gives information that needs to be interpreted, it can sometimes point directly at the origin of a problem,  as perhaps here, or present information for the tech to asses and diagnosis what the problem might be.  Again I am not saying the following is the case here just general info for you, some people just shoot the massager and change the part that gives bad news show on the scan tool.

 

Good luck, let us know how you get on.