I am trying to install a 1.3 mpi engine in a favorit pickup.
How can I get around the problem?

How much of the MPI engine do you have?

Do you have it's ECU? Wiring loom?

 

What about the pick up, do you still have it's engine with its components?

How much MPI engine do you have?
...everything, except something that goes near the synoptic panel and which I think is the immobilizer control

Do you have your ECU? ...Yeah
Cabling? ...Yeah

What about the pickup, do you still have its engine with its components? ...yes, I have it separately.

17 hours ago, Bernardor said:

..everything, except something that goes near the synoptic panel and which I think is the immobilizer control

Yes that's right you would need this to start the MPI engine with its original key.

I believe there are ways of fooling the ECU into starting without that unit, but I don't know how. (Immobilizer emulator?)

17 hours ago, Bernardor said:

yes, I have it separately

What engine was removed from the pick up, 1.3 carburettor? Or 1.3 spi fuel injection?

If it was the fuel injection engine it should be relatively simple to switch over the fuel + engine management system to the MPI engine.

1,3 spi.

 

...I can't get it to start

16 minutes ago, Bernardor said:

.I can't get it to start

Can't get engine to turn over or can't get engine to start?

 

No llega chispa a las bujias

11 hours ago, R_U_AFA said:

 

I believe there are ways of fooling the ECU into starting without that unit, but I don't know how. (Immobilizer emulator?)

 

With 30-40 euros you can buy this, then the car will start (like those car till 80's) with the classic key but of course with no protection.

Do You know some brands or model...?

I am not a car-electrician so it's risky to buy an item like this if you are not a mechanic and now how to install it.

Simos ECU Immobilizer emulator Skoda

 

Here is an example of ECU with Immobilizer Off

https://ecuconnection.co.uk/product/audi-seat-skoda-volkswagon-vw-ecu-simos-3pasimos-3pbsimos-3pcsimos-3pdsimos-3pesimos-3pgsimos-9-1-siemens/

 

or some cheap chinese parts

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005827730103.html

or free decodes

https://ckecu.com/siemens-simos-10-24a-immo/

but i insist to ask for help from a mechanic and don't try to do things by yourself.

_______________________________

 

Club Skoda Felicia 1.3 Chile

https://www.facebook.com/groups/185443453637283/?_rdr

Grupo Skoda Felicia

https://www.facebook.com/groups/625231558859607/

This is from your country, no need to translate, these guys can help you a lot.

Si very thanks !!

Quick update, despite the slight thread highjack.

 

Life got in the way so wasn't able to have the auto electrician look at the car until today. He spent a couple of hours going through the electrics and has come to the conclusion the ECU has failed. His diagnostic equipment was able to get readings from all the sensors except the engine speed, he checked the crank sensor and confirmed the one I fitted is working.

 

So it looks like a replacement ECU is required, but therein lies the irony. Replacing the ECU will require an immobiliser delete unit. However, there are also no guarantees that it is the ECU, and the MoT is up in a few weeks so I'm very tempted to let the car go spares or repairs.

 

There isn't too much of a rush, got 2 other cars to use and the Felly is parked on a drive so even if the MoT expires it doesn't matter. One of the other 2 cars was supposed to have been sold though last month (life issues got in the way of that), so need to decide if Felly goes instead.

12 hours ago, apd007 said:

Replacing the ECU will require an immobiliser delete unit.

 

I have replaced my ECU, no problem with the new and the existing immobiliser of the car, the programmer did his "magic things" and works fine.

13 hours ago, apd007 said:

Replacing the ECU will require an immobiliser delete un

Why is that?
You are wrong, it wont require anything more than a key reprogramming through vcds...
If its the ecu ofc and not the wiring.

Edited 22 May, 20242 yr by Thefeliciahacker

How common are Felicia ECU failures? 

Can only really remember recalling one topic about it on here.

I'd deffo check the hall sensor wiring and connectors for continuity.

14 hours ago, R_U_AFA said:

How common are Felicia ECU failures? 

 

 

Not often but can happen from wrong cable position (negative-positive) when you are out of battery and someone volunteered to give you power, moisture (wrong engine washing), corrosion in pins.

Further update.

 

I've checked the hall sensor wiring and confirmed I get 5 volts at the + end and I was using the plug for the - side, so that's all good. I also did a continuity test of the grey signal wire and confirmed that was good. Noticed too the rev counter isn't doing anything even when cranking.

 

My current theory is the coil was starting to break down (mentioned in original post I got a shock from the casing when doing initial investigation) and this has sent a couple of thousand volts in to the ECU, possibly explaining why the car lost power before completely failing. Tbh, I would have thought if it was that it would have blown something straight away, but I guess it depends on how much voltage was leaking and if it got worse.

If you do decide to change the ECU. I don't think you need to use re-programmer, or immo delete unit, if you can get a ECU + set of keys and possibly the immo unit, (ignition barrel as well if you don't want to use new key as a immobilizer fob) all would have to be from the same breakers vehicle. 

Bit of a sad update.

 

I've checked the wiring etc. again today and spoken to my mechanic and we both agree there isn't much more we can realistically do without starting to swap things out "because it might be that". If I had a workshop, time and money I could park the car up, get it running and continue with the body repair work I was planning on gradually doing over the next few years. With no clear indication though of why it won't run and the car stuck outside I think it's time to let it go. 😪

5 hours ago, apd007 said:

Bit of a sad update.

 

I've checked the wiring etc. again today and spoken to my mechanic and we both agree there isn't much more we can realistically do without starting to swap things out "because it might be that". If I had a workshop, time and money I could park the car up, get it running and continue with the body repair work I was planning on gradually doing over the next few years. With no clear indication though of why it won't run and the car stuck outside I think it's time to let it go. 😪

Find a knowledgable Felicia technician and let him onto it. 

Have you tried swapping back the old crankshaft sensor? It still sounds like the new one isn't working.

Edited 10 June, 20241 yr by Papez

On 28/01/2024 at 15:15, apd007 said:

All,

 

I have a Skoda Felicia 1.3 MPi that anyone who used to go to some of the old Weston Meets 15ish years ago might have seen (has it been that long???). Late last year the car did something she had never done before and let me down, to the point I had to be towed back home, luckily only 2 miles and a mate is a mechanic.

 

Initial symptoms on the drive home was a lack of power, to the point I had to pull over as there was no way I was going to make it up the hill near my house, the engine stopped running when I parked up. The lack of power, the engine stalling and coupled with the electric shock from the ignition coil housing when running diagnostics later, suggested the coil was breaking down internally, which as it's the original 20+ year old coil is to be expected.

 

I purchased a new ignition coil, and also a new crank sensor in case that was failing (also the original 20+ year old sensor) but the car still refuses to start. I'm 99% certain it's not fuel related as I've tried petrol down the throttle body and also easy start, the engine turns over, occasionally sounds like it's going to catch (or even does run for a second) but won't keep running. Forum searches have lead to the immobiliser failing, but I've not been able to find any codes to confirm or deny this. I've had another mate who is an ex-VAG master tech scan the car with his fully legit version of VAG-COM but couldn't find any codes stored of any description.

 

My mate who towed the car back and I even took the valve cover off and manually checked the valve timing in case the engine had somehow managed to jump a tooth, but everything was spot on.

 

I said to my mechanic when I swapped out the coil and crank sensor I wasn't willing to just "part cannon" the car and swapped bits out cause "it might be xyz" and he agrees (he thinks I'm crazy keeping the car on the road this long anyway).

 

The body work on the car is showing it's age in places, front wings are going as are the rear arches, although not MOT failure badly yet and certainly repairable for not a lot of money and was something I was considering having done this year. The bonnet has quite bad lacquer peel and the respray I did on the roof a few years back looks like it was done by the amateur I am. The bigger issue is I think the windscreen is starting to leak, and the sunroof leak I've never managed to fully solve either.

 

Good points are the radiator was replaced a couple of years ago, and last MOT I had the cross member radiator support replaced with a new piece of metal and also a small patch on the inner wing by the shock tower on the drivers side. Prior to the engine letting me down the car drove well. The car is a two owner from new, my sister first then me.

 

Sorry about the rambling post, and if you've made it this far, thank-you, it became a bit of a brain dump on where I am with the car and what my next move is. It's irrational how a piece of metal that was almost obsolete when new can generate such an emotional attachment.

 

So this is where I am, what do I do with the car? Do I risk another £90+ on a immo delete ECU and see if that cures it? Or, do I cut my losses and advertise it on here in the hope that someone is willing and able to take the car on and restore it, last thing I want to do is just scrap it as there aren't many left now and I feel the car has many more years left in it yet if I could just get the car to run.

Have you checked the engine to chassis earth cable? I don't know the engine, does it have a mechanical distributor? is there a tiny earth wire is it breaking up needing replacement? Have you had a compression test?

On 28/01/2024 at 15:15, apd007 said:

All,

 

I have a Skoda Felicia 1.3 MPi that anyone who used to go to some of the old Weston Meets 15ish years ago might have seen (has it been that long???). Late last year the car did something she had never done before and let me down, to the point I had to be towed back home, luckily only 2 miles and a mate is a mechanic.

 

Initial symptoms on the drive home was a lack of power, to the point I had to pull over as there was no way I was going to make it up the hill near my house, the engine stopped running when I parked up. The lack of power, the engine stalling and coupled with the electric shock from the ignition coil housing when running diagnostics later, suggested the coil was breaking down internally, which as it's the original 20+ year old coil is to be expected.

 

I purchased a new ignition coil, and also a new crank sensor in case that was failing (also the original 20+ year old sensor) but the car still refuses to start. I'm 99% certain it's not fuel related as I've tried petrol down the throttle body and also easy start, the engine turns over, occasionally sounds like it's going to catch (or even does run for a second) but won't keep running. Forum searches have lead to the immobiliser failing, but I've not been able to find any codes to confirm or deny this. I've had another mate who is an ex-VAG master tech scan the car with his fully legit version of VAG-COM but couldn't find any codes stored of any description.

 

My mate who towed the car back and I even took the valve cover off and manually checked the valve timing in case the engine had somehow managed to jump a tooth, but everything was spot on.

 

I said to my mechanic when I swapped out the coil and crank sensor I wasn't willing to just "part cannon" the car and swapped bits out cause "it might be xyz" and he agrees (he thinks I'm crazy keeping the car on the road this long anyway).

 

The body work on the car is showing it's age in places, front wings are going as are the rear arches, although not MOT failure badly yet and certainly repairable for not a lot of money and was something I was considering having done this year. The bonnet has quite bad lacquer peel and the respray I did on the roof a few years back looks like it was done by the amateur I am. The bigger issue is I think the windscreen is starting to leak, and the sunroof leak I've never managed to fully solve either.

 

Good points are the radiator was replaced a couple of years ago, and last MOT I had the cross member radiator support replaced with a new piece of metal and also a small patch on the inner wing by the shock tower on the drivers side. Prior to the engine letting me down the car drove well. The car is a two owner from new, my sister first then me.

 

Sorry about the rambling post, and if you've made it this far, thank-you, it became a bit of a brain dump on where I am with the car and what my next move is. It's irrational how a piece of metal that was almost obsolete when new can generate such an emotional attachment.

 

So this is where I am, what do I do with the car? Do I risk another £90+ on a immo delete ECU and see if that cures it? Or, do I cut my losses and advertise it on here in the hope that someone is willing and able to take the car on and restore it, last thing I want to do is just scrap it as there aren't many left now and I feel the car has many more years left in it yet if I could just get the car to run.

Have you checked the engine to chassis earth cable? I don't know the engine, does it have a mechanical distributor? is there a tiny earth wire is it breaking up needing replacement? Have you had a compression test?

On 28/01/2024 at 15:15, apd007 said:

All,

 

I have a Skoda Felicia 1.3 MPi that anyone who used to go to some of the old Weston Meets 15ish years ago might have seen (has it been that long???). Late last year the car did something she had never done before and let me down, to the point I had to be towed back home, luckily only 2 miles and a mate is a mechanic.

 

Initial symptoms on the drive home was a lack of power, to the point I had to pull over as there was no way I was going to make it up the hill near my house, the engine stopped running when I parked up. The lack of power, the engine stalling and coupled with the electric shock from the ignition coil housing when running diagnostics later, suggested the coil was breaking down internally, which as it's the original 20+ year old coil is to be expected.

 

I purchased a new ignition coil, and also a new crank sensor in case that was failing (also the original 20+ year old sensor) but the car still refuses to start. I'm 99% certain it's not fuel related as I've tried petrol down the throttle body and also easy start, the engine turns over, occasionally sounds like it's going to catch (or even does run for a second) but won't keep running. Forum searches have lead to the immobiliser failing, but I've not been able to find any codes to confirm or deny this. I've had another mate who is an ex-VAG master tech scan the car with his fully legit version of VAG-COM but couldn't find any codes stored of any description.

 

My mate who towed the car back and I even took the valve cover off and manually checked the valve timing in case the engine had somehow managed to jump a tooth, but everything was spot on.

 

I said to my mechanic when I swapped out the coil and crank sensor I wasn't willing to just "part cannon" the car and swapped bits out cause "it might be xyz" and he agrees (he thinks I'm crazy keeping the car on the road this long anyway).

 

The body work on the car is showing it's age in places, front wings are going as are the rear arches, although not MOT failure badly yet and certainly repairable for not a lot of money and was something I was considering having done this year. The bonnet has quite bad lacquer peel and the respray I did on the roof a few years back looks like it was done by the amateur I am. The bigger issue is I think the windscreen is starting to leak, and the sunroof leak I've never managed to fully solve either.

 

Good points are the radiator was replaced a couple of years ago, and last MOT I had the cross member radiator support replaced with a new piece of metal and also a small patch on the inner wing by the shock tower on the drivers side. Prior to the engine letting me down the car drove well. The car is a two owner from new, my sister first then me.

 

Sorry about the rambling post, and if you've made it this far, thank-you, it became a bit of a brain dump on where I am with the car and what my next move is. It's irrational how a piece of metal that was almost obsolete when new can generate such an emotional attachment.

 

So this is where I am, what do I do with the car? Do I risk another £90+ on a immo delete ECU and see if that cures it? Or, do I cut my losses and advertise it on here in the hope that someone is willing and able to take the car on and restore it, last thing I want to do is just scrap it as there aren't many left now and I feel the car has many more years left in it yet if I could just get the car to run.

Have you checked the engine to chassis earth cable? I don't know the engine, does it have a mechanical distributor? is there a tiny earth wire is it breaking up needing replacement? Have you had a compression test?

Technical training video describing the immobiliser system on the Skoda Felicia.