It's been a very long time since I've last posted, but I'm proud to say that my Felicia is still kicking ass. And I want to keep her that way.

 

She has a classic 1.3 engine with a good old carburetor (changed it to a Weber replacement with manual choke more than 10 years ago) and standard distributor with a magnetic pickup.

The engine stalls when I blip the throttle, and even shuts down if I really floor it.

Obviously, I thought, this is an accelerator pump or fuel flow problem so I thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt the carb.

No change.

 

Then I checked the timing with my strobe light and found the spark just cuts off when the throttle is depressed hard and fast enough. It doesn't always do it, but in about 9 out of 10 times I try.

No problems on maintaining high revs.

 

So this is actually a distributor related issue. Spark timing on idle is just fine.

The engine also dies immediately if I disconnect the vacuum advance tube to the carb.

For test, I adjusted the dizzy angle so that I can keep the engine running when disconnecting the vacuum line. The stalling problem wasn't there anymore and she happily responded even to savage flooring without any misfire whatsoever. But I want to use the vacuum advance for better economy since she's a daily driver, and fuel prices are ridiculous.

 

I also replaced the electronic ignition module along with the ignition coil, spark plugs, cables, dizzy cap and rotor.

I haven't touched the vacuum advance return spring adjustment nut and washer, and the points movement resistance and return seem fine.

 

Since this is the third dizzy I tried (similar ignition problems always developed over time), does anybody here know where one could buy a good and reliable replacement distributor?

It doesn't have to be standard magnetic pickup type.

 

Thanks!

One man only can help you here and its @R_Blue

I think I found a probable cause.

The brackets that hold the pickup coil are made of a ferromagnetic material (most probably steel), where they should be brass or aluminum (i.e. something paramagnetic).

What I'm talking about is shown on the attached photo. Left is a bracket from the original distributor, and on the right is from the new one.

These steel brackets are disturbing the rotating reluctor magnetic field and wreaking havoc with my ignition timing.

Now I'm trying to find the rest of original brackets in my parts stash hoping that would solve this issue, but I'm not going to assume everything else will be fine with this ****ty distributor in the future.

 

So I'm still open for suggestions about a good and reliable replacement distributor.

123ignition maybe?

At the very start I was going to suggest a 123 dissy but I could not see any for Skodas on their site, perhaps you just use a generic one or one same as another car manufacturer on their list.

 

I fitted a 123 to my 1973 MG Midget in June 2009 and it's still on the car now, and the car was, and still is, used regularly. It has remained at the same setting at base and turn in engine) despite a few session on the rolling road (for road use tuning) and external engine bits being slightly changed and the change in petrol since then.  Despite the cap points getting immediately scarred they only need cleaning up at annual service with rotor tip. 

 

Forget the tune or programable 123 if you get the correct curve one on the correct (curve setting and turn on engine) settings you can fit and forget.  If they still use the Bosch rotor arms with the 5 kohms resistor then the resistor can break down over time and you don't notice until later so once out of guarantee or warranty just remove the resistor and wire passed it.

 

As you've learnt there is lots of crap, abysmal or not so good parts about so if you ever need to replace the rotor arm or dissy cap buy good know brands, some of the copies can be reasonable for cost but nowhere near as good and others poor, abysmal crap.  Same for spark plugs and HT leads.  NGK have counterfeits about apparently but the genuine ones are very good and already reasonably priced.

 

Many keep things like spark plugs (and HT leads) on their cars for far too long because they look OK, seem to work OK and pass a multimeter test.  If you have a Weber you probably appreciate better performance (mpg and mph) so prefer better than mediocre "it works".

 

Edited 16 May, 20242 yr by nta16

I found an ignition system specifically made for Skoda engines. They even have version that uses MPI ignition module to get rid of distributor. However, it seems that it lacks any sort of vacuum advancement.

https://www.vrbamotorsport.cz/programovatelne-zapalovani

 

Edit: according to this article, they can use throttle sensor for advancement, they also have a variant with pressure sensor for turbocharged engines and for flywheel sensor used on SPI/MPI Felicia (I wonder if carburettor engine uses the same flywheel as injection Felicias?). This would allow you to use the distributor system as a backup.

Edited 17 May, 20242 yr by Papez

Velocity Stacks with foram filter, very interesting but i am sure @Thefeliciahacker will disagree with them.

 

 

 

Here in GR we call them 4 throttles mainly for ''street racers".

I am not criticising the system Papez has put up as I know nothing about it just a generalisation, what is good for motorsport is not necessarily so good for non-motorsport road use and there are lots of "classics" about with vacuum removed dissys but motorsport isn't about lower revs and idle, or fuel consumption so much.

 

Same with D.FYLAKTOS's "4 throttles", also about how the Felicia is to be driven or used, I understand it already has a Weber but those can be jetted for more usual non-sport road use.

 

IF there is a 123-ignition dissy I know from personal experience that they are very good (CSI is a now better design for Austin/BMC/BL A-series engines though) they give great engine starts, better idle, steady throughout the rev range, other than cleaning nothing to do on them, many, many years of trouble-free use (15 and counting with the one I bought), fit and forget, it comes with (or without) vacuum advance.  I have highlighted the provisos already, the cost is not high when you consider the many, many years of trouble-free service, the cheaper ones as SaltySkoda has already found are very hit and miss in reliability and longevity, some buy two and keep the second in the boot or carry a fully made up original dissy which personally I find ridiculous as I prefer fit and forget reliability I only like driving the car not tinkering with it or having "fun" with roadside repairs.

 

But as always each to their own preferred solution.

 

16 minutes ago, nta16 said:

I am not criticising the system Papez has put up as I know nothing about it just a generalisation, what is good for motorsport is not necessarily so good for non-motorsport road use and there are lots of "classics" about with vacuum removed dissys but motorsport isn't about lower revs and idle, or fuel consumption so much.

 

It was originally developed for motorsport, but they have road variants as well, with maps for stock engines. It also uses stock components where it can, the only custom part is the ECU.

 

The main advantage compared to distributor based system is that it takes its ignition timing from the crankshaft, which is more precise.

Edited 17 May, 20242 yr by Papez

1 hour ago, Papez said:

It was originally developed for motorsport, but they have road variants as well, with maps for stock engines. It also uses stock components where it can, the only custom part is the ECU.

I do not know the system at all so it could well be superior, but we also have a carb in the equation here so not exactly the fuel precision we are generally re more used to now but again it could be superior.

 

I get nothing from 123, I am merely a satisfied customer giving my experience of it which may have variable relevance here, or it may not.

 

 

1 hour ago, Papez said:

The main advantage compared to distributor based system is that it takes its ignition timing from the crankshaft, which is more precise.

I accept that but from what I remember of my mid-80s Estelle engines and the British 60s and 70s British engines (designed in the 1950s) not much is too precise, the 123-ignition fully electronic (top and bottom) dissy was so much better than the mechanical dissy and better than ignitor heads under the dissy cap that the precision was greater than much else.

 

My 123 was set and only moved on the first rolling road session in 2011, in the following four rolling road (sessions up to 2020) it remained at that setting despite experimenting with moving it and changes in other parts and changes in the petrol available over that period.  My car was modestly above the manufacturer's claimed outputs so I suggested perhaps the 123 should be adjusted up a curve because of this the tuner (who used to previously sell 123) was too polite to laugh but just said it was not needed other fuelling adjustments were enough.

 

The 123 does produce a fatter spark (hence scarring the dissy posts in my case) so the plug gap could be increased to get the performance benefit, fuel economy and power, but not by as much as some claimed, IIRC just  0.003" (0.0762mm) and you want your coil and HT leads in good condition to take best advantage.

 

 

Edited 17 May, 20242 yr by nta16

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

do not know the system at all so it could well be superior, but we also have a carb in the equation here so not exactly the fuel precision we are generally re more used to now but again it could be superior.

 

I get nothing from 123, I am merely a satisfied customer giving my experience of it which may have variable relevance here, or it may not.

 

Even stock distributor is independent from carburettor. It just gives some ignition timing based on few input. ECU can easily replicate this behaviour. Problem is, as you said before, the 123 doesn't have curves for Skoda engine. Vrba's solution is build and programmed specifically for Skoda engines (but I guess it'll be more expensive as well)

 

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

I accept that but from what I remember of my mid-80s Estelle engines and the British 60s and 70s British engines (designed in the 1950s) not much is too precise, the 123-ignition fully electronic (top and bottom) dissy was so much better than the mechanical dissy and better than ignitor heads under the dissy cap that the precision was greater than much else.

 

I'm not saying that 123 cannot be better than the stock distributor - just that no distributor is even better. These engines can have quite loose camshaft timing, so getting the timing chain out of ignition system can only help.

5 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Velocity Stacks with foram filter, very interesting but i am sure @Thefeliciahacker will disagree with them.

Who will tune them? 

Thank you all for your input.

I was right, the problem was in the new distributor.

Although they have multiple ignition distributors that would physically fit the 781.135 engine, I quickly abandoned the 123ignition idea as soon as I saw their prices.

 

Searching through my stash I actually found the distributor the car came with, from the factory (mine says MAGNETON 443 213 204, see photo).

Cleaned it up, filled it with oil, lubed it where it should be lubed and installed it. I only replaced the original pickup coil with a new one.

Works perfectly.

 

I guess the moral of this story is to NEVER trust new parts.

Along the steel brackets issue, an autopsy of the replacement distributor found that the field magnet wasn't drilled exactly through its center, and as such rubbed on reluctor rotor. I also found large pieces of the magnet inside the distributor.

So, I would recommend everyone to rather visit a junkyard and search for OEM parts, especially for a car this old.

ETA: I'd just about finished typing when I saw SaltySkoda's post but as the generally points are still relevant I've posted, and will reply to the previous post next.

 

21 hours ago, Papez said:

Even stock distributor is independent from carburettor.

Yes, but my point was about accuracy generally, carb to injection and as you have put accuracy of the engine generally from new and at age and wear.

 

 

21 hours ago, Papez said:

Problem is, as you said before, the 123 doesn't have curves for Skoda engine. Vrba's solution is build and programmed specifically for Skoda engines (but I guess it'll be more expensive as well)

I didn't mean that they wont have the curves that are suitable just that they don't have any listed for Skoda.  The curves may well be similar to other engines that Felicia owners have used from 123 and other suppliers of dissys.  The original dissy curves may no longer be the best for the car now, or indeed at the time, there are many variables on and off the car from when it was factory new and when it was new there might have be many compromises to the dissy and curve used for many reasons.

 

You would have to enquire with Vrbra to see how much they stuck to original or updated for modern road use.

 

123 do custom units but as I put another of their stock dissys may be suitable, or may not, enquiries would have to be made, tune/programable versions would be suitable but more expensive than the 'standard' versions whether more expensive than Vrbra I obviously don't know as they don't give prices.

 

If the Vrba units or kits work well and are reliable over a very long time of use with parts, if required easily available and not too expensive then they may well be the best choice.

 

Race car generally get very little use and do very few miles but get lots of regular attention, servicing, maintenance and repairs the dead opposite of what I'd want with a road car.

@SaltySkoda you must be new to dealing with old cars parts(?).  For 30+ years I used various old over-priced, over-valued, old cars called "classics" for work, commuting (300 and 500 miles a week for a good number of months) leisure, pleasure, holiday in UK and Europe, club tours and events so many miles in all of them and got through a lot of servicing, maintenance and repairs and dealt with and sourced many parts from various sources.

 

Many new parts have been not good / ****-poor / abysmal for at least the last few decades as original manufacturing companies disappear, get taken over or merge, the brand name is bought and manufacturing entirely different or parts are sourced from places like China were the price dictates the quality and quality testing.

 

Now even New Old Stock parts, if you can source them, may be from a time when the quality had dropped or suffer from age and storage.

 

Reconditioned parts could also be not good / ****-poor / abysmal quality.

 

Parts from scrapyards are a gamble may be great may be very worn, but even very worn they may still be better than many new not good / ****-poor / abysmal parts.

 

Some new parts or replacements like the 123-ingition were very good quality.

 

I don't know about your make of dissy but the ones on the cars I had were out of 'tune' for want of a better word within a few years of use from the car leaving the factory, mainly it's the bottom mechanical part the plate and springs, it never mattered that much as has been put the accuracy of the rest of the engine isn't great anyway.

 

We have a chap in the UK that rebuilds original Lucas dissys using original old stock parts or new electronic top parts if wanted but I've no idea how long the bottom parts remain in spec on his rebuilds, again it may not matter that much for most of his customers who may only do a few dozen, or few hundred or even few thousands of miles a year.

 

My Midget I used as a "daily" for about 16 years and it was modestly uprated so I wanted reliable (uprated) performance which the 123 gave me at a very reasonable price given how long it has so far lasted and been very reliable and not needed any attention (other than annual cleaning) and it was a very good improvement over the igniter head in an original dissy it replaced, the increased precision meant it other (small) performance (in fuel consumption and power) improvement could be reliable made and as put better starting, idle and delivery throughout the rev range.  I stopped using contact breaker points over 30 years ago as they weren't reliable then, some love them but they don't know what they are missing having electronic BUT it has to be good reliable and long lasting electronic which many of the ones sold certainly are not.

 

Good luck, you don't need to over lubricate the dissy and stick with good quality makes of rotor arms, dissy caps, HT leads and spark plugs don't be tempted by the cheap kits and parts as you've found they can turn out to be expensive and a lot of hassle, sometimes almost immediately if not immediately.

 

Just out of curiosity where did you get the poor quality dissy from, if UK I can think of a few suppliers but it doesn't matter as their source is the same and for other suppliers in other countries, just that I might be able to advice you on other ignition parts from them if I know them.

 

@nta16 You’re right, I don’t have much experience in servicing oldtimers. In fact, my ‘97 Felicia is the only car I’ve ever had. My family owned it since it was brand new. I learned much about cars and mechanics with her (and a ‘84 diesel Mk1 Golf we’ve had before her). Also she is the car I learned to drive on, so you probably understand our sentimental connection.

Never had any real problems with her, apart from normal wear such as clutch, coolant pump, CV joints and whatnot. Still has the factory head gasket, the engine was never “opened” as we say here in the Balkans.

She shows almost 313.000 km now and is still counting up. She has regular maintenance by my careful hands, and that’s all she needs. Don’t you just feel the love between us 😍?

 

The Weber carburetor was installed just because I couldn’t source a rebuild kit for the original carb (actually a Pierburg 2E3 license made by Jikov) when it started acting up after 15 years of no maintenance. But it’s also much more fun to tune with all the jets to choose from. I never wanted to make her a “performance” car, and never used a rolling road to optimize the tuning. Just good old test drives.

And still I overtook a Rimac Nevera on a highway around Zagreb (I guess they were testing it, they probably weren’t allowed to go even a little bit over the speed limit) a few years ago. That was some real fun! 😆

 

The new ignition distributor I bought was from Skoda-Parts.com, as they proved to be somewhat reliable and affordable (95% of the time, to be honest). Sticker on the box that it came in is shown on the attached photo.

We do have a Skoda non-OEM spare parts dealer here in Zagreb but I learned the hard way to avoid them. They sell lowest quality parts for the local mechanic to get rid of a cheap car and its penniless owner.

 

For some context, I'm a professional industrial automation engineer and this car is also a fun hobby for me, because I really enjoy solving this kind of puzzles. Now I'm learning how to MIG weld, for I need to fill some holes on her body(work) 😁.

Thus, for me and my beloved beater, the junkyard as a default parts source is the optimal solution.

5 hours ago, SaltySkoda said:

NEVER trust new parts

 

Few years back i bought a new radiator fan, i learn by the hard way that the cables on the plug were posisioned wrong and the 2 scales of fan speed were in reverse.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485671-bosch-radiator-fan-for-felicia-help-wanted/?do=findComment&comment=5454358

No one made a test before they put it in a box for distribution to the parts shop (so also to customer).

I think it's fantastic you have such a car and are looking after it, 1997 is a modern car though.  😄  Well done on the 133,000 km  331,000 km on the original head gasket, shows it's been looked after.

 

Don't get me wrong I'm not a mechanic or anything else and I loathe working on our cars, when we had them, I would much sooner pay someone else to do the work but I found most were not that great and I could do just as badly at a much lower rate of pay.

 

As you've probably learnt cover the basics and all else is better, regular timely, servicing and maintenance is very necessary with older cars not matter how much you use them, and like with modern cars the less you use them proportionately the more they require.

 

JP Group I don't know but they appear like others to have perhaps parts made or bought in and put in their own label boxes along with their other label Classic Line, just looking at a dissy for a VW they look similar quality to a few other brand labels we get here and as you've learnt in general best avoided.  Remind me of First Line here that actually bought some of the production line so still keeping the old brand name but not to the old standards, like Borg & Beck that you might have heard of, they do at least have some level of quality control on what they produce but not as good as decades back.  Sorry I couldn't help more with that.

 

What places might be making good parts at any time varies with contract, at one time the ship builders in Turkey (IIRC) were desperate for work so making so parts at very low prices but to good engineering standards because that's what they were used to doing.  Sometimes the case with China but not for car parts usually or India,  Massive stock contracts go to whoever will do them cheap and the stock can last for years.  Most suppliers will send you a new part to replace a faulty one and not want the faulty part back, and repeat as required, law of numbers occasional you might strike lucky.  Even having the original tooling means nothing, it could be worn and/or no one left who knows how to use the tooling properly.

 

Stick with Bosch or Beru for rotor arm and dissy cap if applicable, SMP Europe's Intermotor brand not bad for arm and cap (whereas their Lucas and Lemark brands are best avoided, for old car parts at least,  Genuine NGK for spark plugs are reliable.  HT leads you can make up yourself, Ferroflex is good to use (no longer sold direct to retail) but available from various places at low prices, just watch the quality of the end boots and connectors, you can buy better, and make to proper lengths.

 

If it was a Lucas diisy you can get NOS good quality parts and advice on springs for curves but if your old dissy works well stick with that, there are good quality ignitor head to go under the dissy cap to replace the CB points but you might want a rest from electronics for a while.  😆

 

Good luck. 

   

Edited 19 May, 20242 yr by nta16

Going off topic now, but I enjoy this discussion so much that I'm going to bend the forum rules a bit. Excuse me.

 

It's not always about the years.

Yes, 1997 might be fairly recent, but the car could have easily been made in the 1970s. The only thing digital on her is the clock. She doesn't even have a catalytic converter.

 

Nowadays, almost no mechanic wants or knows to work on a conceptually old car. They just plug in the OBD, read out the errors and change parts according to a table the manufacturer gives them. No thinking required. A robot could do it.

Mechanics that know usually reserve themselves for valuable oldtimers and don't want to spend any of their time on a car they don't appreciate. There is also the good quality parts sourcing problem. It's easy to find good replacement parts only for some old cars, and almost impossible for any other. This would be very much in relation what the mentioned 123ignition has in their offer, and what they don't.

 

So, as shango066 often says, if you're going to own and use something of this age, you need to learn how to maintain and fix it. He's into vintage electronics by the way, but the same rule applies here for very much the same reasons.

Over the years I collected various service manuals, diagrams and other documentation on my Felicia, and I'll be happy to share that with anyone that needs it. Just DM me.

 

But the most important thing in solving puzzles like these is understanding of some basic principles, and taking your time to think and experiment.

Parts quality is of course critical, as this story shows, so thank you very much @nta16 for recommending manufacturers you trust. They're going into my little notebook for future reference.

 

Cheers!

 

P.S. It's almost 313 thousand km, not 133. Or close to 200 thousand miles.

 

 

 

29 minutes ago, SaltySkoda said:

Nowadays, almost no mechanic wants or knows to work on a conceptually old car.

 

Same here in Greece but with he (Local) young ones, they have that ''wise guy'' attitude with OBD scanner-laptop in their hands, a robe like doctors and disagree with everything you say to them.

In case they don't know they reject you ''it's an old car, i don't have the programme for this car, no bulletin, my supplier does not have original parts for this, not worth the cost" and other excuses.

Thankfully we have some old mechanics and some non Locals (young, non-Greeks) with smaller not fancy repairs shops which accept to work with an old car.

 

By the way have you ever take measures for fuel consumption in City-Highway?

@D.FYLAKTOS Yeah, same here. That's why I always supply my preferred mechanic with new parts and detailed instructions on what to do. Some things you just can't do without a car lift and I don't have one, so sometimes I have to pay a workshop to do the job for me.

 

My Felicia spends pretty much as per manufacturer's quote in the instruction manual, maybe a little more because of carburetor jets I've chosen.

It also of course depends on how I'm driving, whether it's winter and so on, but it's always somewhere between 7 and 9 l/100 km.

I kept an Excel table for several years for this calculation so I'm pretty much sure of the numbers.

In the past (no internet, no forum, no pdf manual) we had major problem, only some old mechanics which knew Favorit wanted to work in a Felicia and we didn't knew anything except what the magazines wrote-stories by other drivers.

Now he have Haynes, service manual, forum to ask for help there is a lot of knowledge from the owner.

Fancy, famous repair shops (even young ECU programmers) don't want to work with it because they don't want to get their hands dirty and will have no big profit, they prefer newer models with ''come-i install-you pay a lot-go'' procedure.

37 minutes ago, SaltySkoda said:

Going off topic now, but I enjoy this discussion so much that I'm going to bend the forum rules a bit. Excuse me.

😆 I'm a 'serial 'offender', really annoys some but I don't see the harm especially if the issues has been resolved or there's a long delay before resolve cn be reported.

 

 

37 minutes ago, SaltySkoda said:

The only thing digital on her is the clock. She doesn't even have a catalytic converter.

You've got a clock, and its digital, you're showing off now. 😆  That's late for non-car here, the whole cat thing is only because the Americans are so insular and wedded to consumerism but we won't go into how they 'help' the world.

 

 

39 minutes ago, SaltySkoda said:

Nowadays, almost no mechanic wants or knows to work on a conceptually old car. They just plug in the OBD, read out the errors and change parts according to a table the manufacturer gives them. No thinking required. A robot could do it.

Yes but it's silly because if they are actually mechanic the more basic cars obviously cover the basics of mechanics, like learning to drive if people intitally learnt to drive in an old car they were learnt the basics of driving rather than just how to pass a test.  Yes a robot could do as some who just follow a error codes rather than using the scanner just as another diagnostics tool and checking the information the scan tool has given and further diagnosis.   In most ways earlier cars are so much easier to work on so you would think they would like to work on them, if only for a change.

 

 

47 minutes ago, SaltySkoda said:

Mechanics that know usually reserve themselves for valuable oldtimers and don't want to spend any of their time on a car they don't appreciate.

Unfortunately there are good reasons for this, most "classic" car owners don't want to spend money on the vehicles other than for cosmetics because they drive the vehicles so infrequently and for such short distances, this also means they have very little idea of how to drive the vehicles or how well they should or could go so very many very shiny vehicles are not in the best running condition or anywhere near it.

 

When I had an older car but not "classic" of a specialist English manufacturer I took it to a chap I was recommended too and he was telling me about a customer moaning about the cost and the work and parts required, I think at the time his labour charges were at least halve of those that the specialist Dealership type garages charged  so I told him to put his prices up to get rid of such customers (these were not cheap old cars).  6 months later I was back and he put his price up and I was the first customer at the new tariff, and same again 6 months on from that.😆  I didn't mind as he done a good job and still at much lower cost and predicted he was doing more work as he was no longer dealing with irresponsible customers returning always wanting half a job done then moaning about it.  I've worked dealing with the general public and businesses and as a customer of course and there is good and bad on all sides (the customer isn't always right and many "try it on", same as many in the car trade.

 

 

1 hour ago, SaltySkoda said:

So, as shango066 often says, if you're going to own and use something of this age, you need to learn how to maintain and fix it.

If you are going to drive a car you should learn the basic driver checks and maintenance regardless of age and they apply to old and new cars.  Parent, grandparents and guardians that provide the children with vehicles and do all the work and administration for them are doing the children no favours. They don't need to know too much or do anything but driver's maintenance but that should be a minimum.

 

It used to be a lot easier as the Driver's Handbook (Owner's Manual) actually detailed the servicing and maintenance work work required and how to do (and capacities and grades unlike todays VWs).  I always suggest for old or new cars that owners should read the Owner's Manual and refer to it as required.  I've know owners that are good at mechanics and owned the car decades yet still have something(s) wrong on an old car just because they haven't read the Driver's Handbook for decades and think they know everything already but have forgotten in reality.  I also suggest those thinking about buying a new, or new to them, car but particularly a "classic" that they read the Owner's Manual' before even going to look to buy to see just how much servicing and maintenance might be involved and how properly to use the controls and drive the car rather than what they might have been told or read, there's so much misinformation and errors about.  For servicing and maintenance you should refer to the Owner's Manual BEFORE the workshop manual and even for repairs, particularly with new cars they could save themselves time, hassle and money as they might find the quick, easy (often clean hands) and no cost solution in the Owner's Manual.

 

A tip for you, the car 12v battery has always been very important, make sure that it and its connections and cables (including earths) are in good condition, clean, secure and protected and that the battery is in a good state of charge.  If you have a starting or electrical issue first check those items mentioned and fully recharge the battery with a low amperage charger, to full, as this will help with finding and resolving issues (or even resolve the issue) whereas if things are not in good condition and battery low in charge it can hinder or even prevent diagnosis and resolve.  More than once I've been told long stories of issues that took lots of work and time to find the cause and I spoil the end of the story by saying "I bet you fitted a new battery and it was solved". 😆  If they had fully charged the battery and maintained the charge at the start they would possibly not needed to change the battery at all and wated all the time and effort.

 

State of battery charge and state of battery health is even more important with the newer cars, the newer the more important because of all the consumers and computer bits on them.

 

 

1 hour ago, SaltySkoda said:

But the most important thing in solving puzzles like these is understanding of some basic principles, and taking your time to think and experiment.

I agree, but I don't like to experiment and would rather find correct information but sometimes you do have to experiment, particularly if you can't remember what order the bits go back in.  😄

 

Do always bear in mind that you need to check and cross reference any information you get from any source be it Owner's Manual, workshop manuals, any database, the internet (particular old blokes with poor memories), with if possible two other (hopefully) reliable sources of information.

 

 

1 hour ago, SaltySkoda said:

@nta16 for recommending manufacturers you trust.

Bear in mind things can change and some things that were poor quality can sometimes improve (for a while/ contract).

 

10% (and 5%) ethanol fuel can be an issues for some "classics" here particularly those that aren't driven often. one of the reason for the last couple of rolling road sessions.

 

I've found old engines like changes of oil & filter, air filter and when required or as preventative or performance change of spark plugs.  A mate puts new plugs in ever year at annual service as they are so inexpensive (always stick to old copper type).  Of course the engine is not the most important part of the car, instead brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), lights (horn) and glass (windows, mirrors) (reflective number plates(?))  - see and be seen.

 

Brakes can go hard from age and lack of use, and maintenance, brake fluid might be fine for water content but could have other stuff in it like runner that wears on the rubber seals more  so flush changing can be a good idea - or if you don't have that new fangled ABS silicone is very good and too many myths surrounding its use.

 

Tyres are a very complex component and often ignored if there is plenty of tread on them, they can go hard from age, exposure and lack of use, a new set of tyres can make a (big) difference to braking, steering, road holding, handling and comfort and noise.

 

 

2 hours ago, SaltySkoda said:

P.S. It's almost 313 thousand km, not 133. Or close to 200 thousand miles.

Yes sorry about that, another one of my typos I already had to covert it to miles so I knew it was 195k-miles.

 

 

1 hour ago, SaltySkoda said:

That's why I always supply my preferred mechanic with new parts and detailed instructions on what to do.

Apart from a couple of times when I supply information and instructions to the mechanic and his boss if applicable and even leave another copy in the car these are ignored by either the mechanic, the boss or both.  I always ask that if any issues come up just to let me know, they rarely do and slow or mess the job up.  That's was one of the reasons I started do the work for myself because after I had paid someone to do the work I had to redo it to get it right.  Sadly sometimes I can do a better job, that's not a boast just a very sad statement because I'm not that competent and certainly not with a good attitude to doing the work.  Yet I don't mind doing small jobs on my neighbours' cars.

 

And here endth today's sermon  .   .   .      😃

15 hours ago, nta16 said:

You've got a clock, and its digital, you're showing off now. 😆  That's late for non-car here, the whole cat thing is only because the Americans are so insular and wedded to consumerism but we won't go into how they 'help' the world.

 

Well, she’s a GLX model, what did you expect?

LX models that were sold here at the time had an analog clock instead of the rev counter, and no center console. That was pretty much the only difference.

Power steering, A/C, ABS, airbags, motorized windows and all that stuff for wimps existed only in the user’s manual. They started to offer Felicias with fancy equipment at the very end of production, and as such they are very rare around here.

 

 

15 hours ago, nta16 said:

 

Unfortunately there are good reasons for this, most "classic" car owners don't want to spend money on the vehicles other than for cosmetics because they drive the vehicles so infrequently and for such short distances, this also means they have very little idea of how to drive the vehicles or how well they should or could go so very many very shiny vehicles are not in the best running condition or anywhere near it.

 

 

 

When I had an older car but not "classic" of a specialist English manufacturer I took it to a chap I was recommended too and he was telling me about a customer moaning about the cost and the work and parts required, I think at the time his labour charges were at least halve of those that the specialist Dealership type garages charged  so I told him to put his prices up to get rid of such customers (these were not cheap old cars).  6 months later I was back and he put his price up and I was the first customer at the new tariff, and same again 6 months on from that.😆  I didn't mind as he done a good job and still at much lower cost and predicted he was doing more work as he was no longer dealing with irresponsible customers returning always wanting half a job done then moaning about it.  I've worked dealing with the general public and businesses and as a customer of course and there is good and bad on all sides (the customer isn't always right and many "try it on", same as many in the car trade.

 

 

If you are going to drive a car you should learn the basic driver checks and maintenance regardless of age and they apply to old and new cars.  Parent, grandparents and guardians that provide the children with vehicles and do all the work and administration for them are doing the children no favours. They don't need to know too much or do anything but driver's maintenance but that should be a minimum.

 

It used to be a lot easier as the Driver's Handbook (Owner's Manual) actually detailed the servicing and maintenance work work required and how to do (and capacities and grades unlike todays VWs).  I always suggest for old or new cars that owners should read the Owner's Manual and refer to it as required.  I've know owners that are good at mechanics and owned the car decades yet still have something(s) wrong on an old car just because they haven't read the Driver's Handbook for decades and think they know everything already but have forgotten in reality.  I also suggest those thinking about buying a new, or new to them, car but particularly a "classic" that they read the Owner's Manual' before even going to look to buy to see just how much servicing and maintenance might be involved and how properly to use the controls and drive the car rather than what they might have been told or read, there's so much misinformation and errors about.  For servicing and maintenance you should refer to the Owner's Manual BEFORE the workshop manual and even for repairs, particularly with new cars they could save themselves time, hassle and money as they might find the quick, easy (often clean hands) and no cost solution in the Owner's Manual.

 

A tip for you, the car 12v battery has always been very important, make sure that it and its connections and cables (including earths) are in good condition, clean, secure and protected and that the battery is in a good state of charge.  If you have a starting or electrical issue first check those items mentioned and fully recharge the battery with a low amperage charger, to full, as this will help with finding and resolving issues (or even resolve the issue) whereas if things are not in good condition and battery low in charge it can hinder or even prevent diagnosis and resolve.  More than once I've been told long stories of issues that took lots of work and time to find the cause and I spoil the end of the story by saying "I bet you fitted a new battery and it was solved". 😆  If they had fully charged the battery and maintained the charge at the start they would possibly not needed to change the battery at all and wated all the time and effort.

 

State of battery charge and state of battery health is even more important with the newer cars, the newer the more important because of all the consumers and computer bits on them.

 

 

I agree, but I don't like to experiment and would rather find correct information but sometimes you do have to experiment, particularly if you can't remember what order the bits go back in.  😄

 

Do always bear in mind that you need to check and cross reference any information you get from any source be it Owner's Manual, workshop manuals, any database, the internet (particular old blokes with poor memories), with if possible two other (hopefully) reliable sources of information.

 

 

Bear in mind things can change and some things that were poor quality can sometimes improve (for a while/ contract).

 

10% (and 5%) ethanol fuel can be an issues for some "classics" here particularly those that aren't driven often. one of the reason for the last couple of rolling road sessions.

 

I've found old engines like changes of oil & filter, air filter and when required or as preventative or performance change of spark plugs.  A mate puts new plugs in ever year at annual service as they are so inexpensive (always stick to old copper type).  Of course the engine is not the most important part of the car, instead brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), lights (horn) and glass (windows, mirrors) (reflective number plates(?))  - see and be seen.

 

Brakes can go hard from age and lack of use, and maintenance, brake fluid might be fine for water content but could have other stuff in it like runner that wears on the rubber seals more  so flush changing can be a good idea - or if you don't have that new fangled ABS silicone is very good and too many myths surrounding its use.

 

Tyres are a very complex component and often ignored if there is plenty of tread on them, they can go hard from age, exposure and lack of use, a new set of tyres can make a (big) difference to braking, steering, road holding, handling and comfort and noise.

 

 

Yes sorry about that, another one of my typos I already had to covert it to miles so I knew it was 195k-miles.

 

 

Apart from a couple of times when I supply information and instructions to the mechanic and his boss if applicable and even leave another copy in the car these are ignored by either the mechanic, the boss or both.  I always ask that if any issues come up just to let me know, they rarely do and slow or mess the job up.  That's was one of the reasons I started do the work for myself because after I had paid someone to do the work I had to redo it to get it right.  Sadly sometimes I can do a better job, that's not a boast just a very sad statement because I'm not that competent and certainly not with a good attitude to doing the work.  Yet I don't mind doing small jobs on my neighbours' cars.

 

And here endth today's sermon  .   .   .      😃

 

I accidentally posted an unfinished post, so here is the full answer:

 

  

15 hours ago, nta16 said:

You've got a clock, and its digital, you're showing off now. 😆  That's late for non-car here, the whole cat thing is only because the Americans are so insular and wedded to consumerism but we won't go into how they 'help' the world.

 

Well, she’s a GLX model, what did you expect? LX models that were sold here at the time had an analog clock instead of the rev counter, and no center console. That was pretty much the only difference. Power steering, A/C, ABS, airbags, motorized windows and all that stuff for wimps existed only in the user’s manual. They started to offer Felicias with fancy equipment at the very end of production, and as such they are very rare around here.

 

15 hours ago, nta16 said:

When I had an older car but not "classic" of a specialist English manufacturer I took it to a chap I was recommended too and he was telling me about a customer moaning about the cost and the work and parts required, I think at the time his labour charges were at least halve of those that the specialist Dealership type garages charged  so I told him to put his prices up to get rid of such customers (these were not cheap old cars).  6 months later I was back and he put his price up and I was the first customer at the new tariff, and same again 6 months on from that.😆  I didn't mind as he done a good job and still at much lower cost and predicted he was doing more work as he was no longer dealing with irresponsible customers returning always wanting half a job done then moaning about it.  I've worked dealing with the general public and businesses and as a customer of course and there is good and bad on all sides (the customer isn't always right and many "try it on", same as many in the car trade.

 

No mechanic or bodywork specialist wants to look at my car because it screams "broke". Honestly, she looks like something that should only be driven to the junkyard, and is priced proportional to her weight.
I don't really care.

So I'm actually forced to learn how to do basic bodywork repairs, and I'm kind of happy about that.

 

15 hours ago, nta16 said:

A tip for you, the car 12v battery has always been very important, make sure that it and its connections and cables (including earths) are in good condition, clean, secure and protected and that the battery is in a good state of charge.  If you have a starting or electrical issue first check those items mentioned and fully recharge the battery with a low amperage charger, to full, as this will help with finding and resolving issues (or even resolve the issue) whereas if things are not in good condition and battery low in charge it can hinder or even prevent diagnosis and resolve.  More than once I've been told long stories of issues that took lots of work and time to find the cause and I spoil the end of the story by saying "I bet you fitted a new battery and it was solved". 😆  If they had fully charged the battery and maintained the charge at the start they would possibly not needed to change the battery at all and wated all the time and effort.

 

I didn’t mention it, but yes I checked the system voltage both in engine off and running / revving conditions to rule out the alternator. I changed the negative battery strap and cleaned all contact points a year ago. I also ran a separate wire from the battery negative lug to the electronic ignition module while debugging weird symptoms with the ignition. It always turned out to be the electronic ignition module, however. The original distributor was replaced because I thought it was causing issues, but again it was actually the electronics. OEM ignition module design is faulty as it allows water to get inside, so I recommend the more expensive plastic sealed type, manufactured by Viká. It pays out in the long run.

 

I changed the battery many times over the years, and it always shows signs of slow turnover while starting for a few days or even weeks before it fails. But when it can’t turn over the engine it is usually enough to try a push start, even with the battery voltage as low as 9 volts which is enough to power the ignition coil. Did it all by myself on a few occasions on a flat parking lot, even in reverse gear one time going backwards on a steep hill. The alternator is perfectly capable of maintaining proper system voltage, provided the battery isn’t internally shorted (lead crystals grow on battery plates and eventually make physical contact). These small and simple 45 Ah batteries are still very cheap so I usually just buy a new one as soon as I confirm the old battery doesn’t keep its charge.

 

It’s also good practice to check the battery cells’ acid levels every now and then, and top up with distilled water if needed.

 

16 hours ago, nta16 said:

10% (and 5%) ethanol fuel can be an issues for some "classics" here particularly those that aren't driven often. one of the reason for the last couple of rolling road sessions.

 

Ethanol is a problem for old rubber parts, i.e. hoses, diaphragms and gaskets, and can cause problems in cars that sat in a barn for the last 40 years or so. But today's rubber contained in rebuild kits and fuel hoses are somewhat more resistant to ethanol and don't readily disintegrate or solidify upon exposure to it.

 

16 hours ago, nta16 said:

I've found old engines like changes of oil & filter, air filter and when required or as preventative or performance change of spark plugs.  A mate puts new plugs in ever year at annual service as they are so inexpensive (always stick to old copper type).  Of course the engine is not the most important part of the car, instead brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), lights (horn) and glass (windows, mirrors) (reflective number plates(?))  - see and be seen.

 

I change the spark plugs per Skoda's recommendation (every 30.000 km), because I'm worried about wearing out the threads on the head.

We engineers have a saying: if it works, don't touch it. I don't think he's gaining anything by changing the spark plugs every year, if he's not doing a hell of a lot miles.

Valve clearance is much more critical and I do that annually.

 

16 hours ago, nta16 said:

Of course the engine is not the most important part of the car, instead brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), lights (horn) and glass (windows, mirrors) (reflective number plates(?))  - see and be seen.

 

Yes, well, I don't want to die in a car crash.

I always take the MOT very seriously and never cut corners, especially when safety is concerned.