Hello everyone!

 

My Skoda Superb 2.0 TDI from 2017 of having some WEIRD problems.

 

It started making like once a week when engine was warm, however now makes most off the time when starting the engine cold. When starting it takes double the time to Start, the rpm goes to almost 1200 and it gives all the fault codes on the image, sorry its portuguese but the images are the same haha

Its the ESC, TPS and resistance/glow plug light flashing on the dashboard, also says Start stop error after restarting the car to clear the codes, most off the time it clears everything after restarting except the Start and stop error.

 

When it happens while driving the car kind stalls for 0.1 second and gives the errors, it algo goes into safe mode, loses power, if this happens while engine idling the engine cuts off and i need to restart it.

 

Thanks for all the help that you can give!!!

 

Ps: The battery was changed 6 months ago, the problems started around 4 months ago. 

 

PS: The car ONLY has 433k km / 270k miles 

 

Edited 21 June, 20241 yr by Feitais

Hello, welcome to the forum. Was the battery adaptation (coding) carried out when the new battery was fitted?

I strongly suggest that get get the battery tested, especially with a load test.

Edited 21 June, 20241 yr by Warrior193
repetition

Hello! I bought it with a new battery installed, I suspected it wasn't coded... Does this car, 2017 year, need battery coding? 

 

Unlikely to be a result of the battery not being coded. My money is on a failing ABS sensor. Get it scanned and report back.

3 minutes ago, inspectorman said:

My money is on a failing ABS sensor.

Absolutely, a failed/failing ABS sensor affects any system that needs to know vehicle speed.

But the glow plug flashing is from that too? I heard of ABS and wheel speed sensor but normally without the glow plug light.

 

And if it is the ABS, need to buy a new ABS module??

19 minutes ago, Feitais said:

And if it is the ABS, need to buy a new ABS module??

Very unlikely, it's normally one of the wheel speed sensors - a fault code scan will tell you which one.

 

The flashing glow pug is probably unrelated, but could be just another 'sympathy' fault code.

Thanks a lot for all the comments, I will try to read all the codes and when I get news I will update the topic.

3 hours ago, Feitais said:

Hello! I bought it with a new battery installed, I suspected it wasn't coded... Does this car, 2017 year, need battery coding? 

 

If the vehicle has automatic idle stop (stop/start) - and therefore a smart alternator,  battery adaptation is required when fitting a new battery.

-- UPDATE --

 

I decided to disconnect the battery and clean the negative connector with sandpaper and alcohol, it was a little dark.

That was 3 days ago, before doing this the car would turn the lights on and stall every day (once or twice a day). For the last 3 days I had zero problems, lets see if the problem was only a dirty connector! 

When people used to speak about a Full Service, a MAJOR Service or The BIG service, this was the kind of thing that was part of it.  BMW, Daimler-Benz (Mercedes)  etc.

All fluids replaced, even bulbs.  Cost lots, and often when The Big service was due was when people got rid and bought a new car. 

-- UPDATE --

 

So, for some days the car was okay, after almost a month it started giving the same errors 3 or 4 times a day, and sometimes it also comes with the engine light. 

I will read the errors and update the topic!

Thanks

Edited 17 July, 20241 yr by Feitais

On 21/06/2024 at 15:23, PetrolDave said:

it's normally one of the wheel speed sensors - a fault code scan will tell you which one.

As said earlier, get a fault code scan done - I'd be surprised if at least one of the ABS wheel speed sensors is showing a fault code.

Scan for error codes and get the battery 'code' correctly if not already done so.  Check the battery isn't low in charge or just fully charge it with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and the charger maintainer instructions, charge low (amps) long and slow not higher amps, short, quick charger, this may take many hours if the battery is low.

 

Any problems like you have and you want to be diagnosing them with a battery in good state of charge, health and connections.

 

As you have cleaned the negative connector I take it you have also checked the positive side and that all connections at all ends are clean, secure and protected.

 

As you didn't have the battery installed you don't know how ell the job was done, I have batteries replaced by Dealerships that were not done well and you shouldn't have needed to clean a connector really.  Are you sure it has the correct battery fitted, was the battery actually new when installed?

 

An appropriate (to your VW model) scan tool if updated too should give you correct error codes, an inappropriate scan tool and/or not updated may not give full or correct information.

 

Hi,

 

Has your Superb really done 430000 Km?

You were probably trouble free for a month because the battery disconnection had reset some errors that might have caused errors from sooner from just being in the memory.

But, as said above, do an autoscan to get the DTCs in the controllers.

On 03/08/2024 at 10:02, 26DIPP said:

Hi,

 

Has your Superb really done 430000 Km?

You were probably trouble free for a month because the battery disconnection had reset some errors that might have caused errors from sooner from just being in the memory.

But, as said above, do an autoscan to get the DTCs in the controllers.

 

Hi!! Yes, my superb really did 437k km, with stock engine, only normal problems! 

 

I finally did a scan, and after some mechanics told me it was injectors or maybe turbo, the scan said its the engine speed sensor that has no signal. 

 

I'm pushing the problem to the limit to see where it goes, sometimes starts and turns off immediately after, and most of the time now it runs with all of those lights. 

 

Is it easy to change this sensor? Can I do it at home with some basic knowledge? 

 

Thanks to everyone who helped me! 

UPDATE

 

After scan I got a bunch of passive errors related to tire management, ESC, alternator (start&stop), front assist, etc. because of all the dashboard lights as shown on the comments before.

However, only 3 active errors appear, my right front light that needs changing, key battery low and Engine Rotation Sensor - no signal, code P0322. So from what I understood, with this error the car gets in safe mode and disables everything related to traction control and safety things like front assist, a little weird but ok!

Wiil see if I can change it at home and update here.

 

Hi there,

 

I'm hoping you got this fixed by now?

 

Reading your first post I was a bit confused, was there a word missing? You said "....it started making when warm" did you mean it started making a noise or sound when starting when warm? And then this developed to making a noise or sound on cold starting too?

 

The reason I ask, and I could be miles away from the correct diagnosis with this: do you know when the clutch/dual mass flywheel was last changed?

 

A noise on starting from warm is often the first sign of the dual mass flywheel failing. I hope I am wrong.

 

You say you have a fault code relating to "Engine Rotation Sensor", which I believe, but I'd be delighted if someone said I was wrong, means the crankshaft speed sensor? Again, that could possibly be the problem or it could be a symptom of a failing Dual Mass Flywheel.

 

Like I said, I am hoping I am wrong.

Hi! 

24 minutes ago, stan_deezy said:

Hi there,

 

I'm hoping you got this fixed by now?

 

Reading your first post I was a bit confused, was there a word missing? You said "....it started making when warm" did you mean it started making a noise or sound when starting when warm? And then this developed to making a noise or sound on cold starting too?

 

The reason I ask, and I could be miles away from the correct diagnosis with this: do you know when the clutch/dual mass flywheel was last changed?

 

A noise on starting from warm is often the first sign of the dual mass flywheel failing. I hope I am wrong.

 

You say you have a fault code relating to "Engine Rotation Sensor", which I believe, but I'd be delighted if someone said I was wrong, means the crankshaft speed sensor? Again, that could possibly be the problem or it could be a symptom of a failing Dual Mass Flywheel.

 

Like I said, I am hoping I am wrong.

Sorry for my bad English sometimes.

 

The direct translation is engine rotation sensor, however, yes it is the crankshaft position sensor.
 

No, it doesn’t make any sound, it started giving those errors only warm the first few times, and stall only warm too. Now it’s random. 
 

I didn’t get it fixed yet, when I do I will update the post.

 

thanks!

FIXED / SOLVED

 

Well, it was the sensor. After changing the sensor in my garage the car is good, everything was fixed after changing only one sensor.

The sensor that I got was this one: SWAG - 30106841
It cost me 21€ and 1/4 liter of oil (Had to take the oil filter out to change the sensor).

I found this document in german that some guy did explainig how to change the sensor, well explained here.

c4-drehzahlsensor-wechsel-1.pdf

 

More than 10 errors because of 1 sensor 😅

440.000 kms now and still going strong.

Will install my new Eibach Springs 35mm soon.

Thanks everyone for the help.

Edited 14 October, 20241 yr by Feitais