It's about as useful as lane assist and that SOS message that randomly pops up.

I turn them off before moving off, the SOS I have to ignore until I turn the ignition off but that's another story/thread.😁

12 hours ago, nta16 said:

Are you keeping your foot off the brake once you have braked hard to stop?

 

With a 2020 car can you simply disconnect the start stop at the battery negative terminal so not have to worry about it?

 

Quick thoughts - 2020 car, was it made during covid, have VWŠKoda got any updates or Recalls on this, others owners seem to have similar issues, have you got DSG, do you use heated this, that and t'other, have you got a scan tool report on this - that's me out of ideas.

 

ETA: have you or anyone before you added anything to the car particularly electrical perhaps?

 

 

I have already tested every combination of 'gesture', always does the same thing.

The car was second hand but there isn't anything added to the car.

This will be the third time I'll take it to the garage, they say they have a 'process' to go through - first they charged the battery, now they changed the battery - and I'm baffled no one tested these 'repairs'.

 

11 hours ago, sussamb said:

I have a 2022 Kamiq but always turn stop/start off. Got into the habit on my wife's 2018 Karoq. Can't see the point of even having it, just simply a way of manufactures claiming an extra percentage point in fuel economy.

 

I'm not sure if you just have to disconnect anything (I prefer not to tinker with it), but I wouldn't mind just disabling it at this point.

6 hours ago, vsmovement said:

 

I'm not sure if you just have to disconnect anything (I prefer not to tinker with it), but I wouldn't mind just disabling it at this point.

 

Just press the button by the gearstick every time you start the engine. Second nature to me now.

I don't know about your 2020 car but on my wife's 2015 Fabia and others you can just disconnect at the negative battery terminal as in photos below.

 

A battery shouldn't need changing at 4 years but many are because of their use, abuse and neglect, many owners/drivers have forgot or never learnt about battery usage and recharging (with an appropriate battery charger maintainer) because they don't read the car Owner's Manual (for a few reasons) or they'd sooner buy an expensive battery and have it 'coded' when required than very occasional driver maintenance.

 

Disconnecting the start stop may also help with the battery working better and lasting longer.

 

Other than perhaps some minor increase in emissions and mpg from the engine not stopping it probably does better to leave it disconnected as some owners have for years, I'd put a bit of tape over the connector ends just to stop anything getting in but others wouldn't bother.

 

On 02/12/2024 at 22:09, nta16 said:

I don't know about your 2020 car but on my wife's 2015 Fabia and others you can just disconnect at the negative battery terminal as in photos below.

 

A battery shouldn't need changing at 4 years but many are because of their use, abuse and neglect, many owners/drivers have forgot or never learnt about battery usage and recharging (with an appropriate battery charger maintainer) because they don't read the car Owner's Manual (for a few reasons) or they'd sooner buy an expensive battery and have it 'coded' when required than very occasional driver maintenance.

 

Disconnecting the start stop may also help with the battery working better and lasting longer.

 

Other than perhaps some minor increase in emissions and mpg from the engine not stopping it probably does better to leave it disconnected as some owners have for years, I'd put a bit of tape over the connector ends just to stop anything getting in but others wouldn't bother.

 

Doing this is a very unwise thing to do as those are used for the electronics to monitor the state of charge. Disconnecting them can result in the battery being overcharged because the ECU cant read it and it will eventually destroy the battery faster from the overcharging. Has been endless discussion about this on VW forums and the consensus is that its a stupid thing to do. Their words, am just repeating.

7 minutes ago, Exkiwi said:

Doing this is a very unwise thing to do as those are used for the electronics to monitor the state of charge. Disconnecting them can result in the battery being overcharged because the ECU cant read it and it will eventually destroy the battery faster from the overcharging. Has been endless discussion about this on VW forums and the consensus is that its a stupid thing to do. Their words, am just repeating.

Might depend on the car, model, year, etc., etc., but owners of similar VWŠkoda models/years have reported disconnecting for years without issue but as usual (unless I forget) there are conditional comment(s) thrown in, this instance -

(see next post, I fat-fingered and posted here when I didn't mean to).

Edited 24 July, 202524 Jul by nta16

On 02/12/2024 at 12:09, nta16 said:

I don't know about your 2020 car but on my wife's 2015 Fabia and others you can just disconnect at the negative battery terminal as in photos below.

(ETA: Plus the universal common sense caution of not taking any 'bloke on the internet' advice without checking and cross referencing it as with any information from any source, particularly in these times, but it's always been so.

P.S. the photos I lifted from someone else, I'd never tighten the battery terminal post clamp that much, to me looks like the work of a professional, stronger in the arm than head.

Edited 24 July, 202524 Jul by nta16

Messing with the wiring in a car is never a smart idea. It takes all of a second to press the stop/start button after starting the engine and the stop start is properly disabled.

I know what you mean but it's not messing with the wiring it is disconnection of a connector, there will be other connector(s) on the car not connected.

If anyone has proof that disconnecting this system connector makes any significant difference to performance and longevity of the battery and alternator in VWs generally or a specific model and/or year it would be great to see it. Long term parallel testing with and without to compare is beyond most DIYers and owners. Many owners already prematurely, or very prematurely change the 12v battery by just relying on VWs systems and not referring to VW's 'Owner's Manual' for the vehicle with regard to the battery.

This is the same sort of debate/argument/beliefs as the need to 'code' a new replacement 12v battery when it is a like for like replacement of type (AGM/EFB) and Ah rating to avoid any significant difference to performance and longevity of the battery and alternator.

Then there's putting an AGM battery in place of EFB in the engine bay without the additional insulation, whether this will give any significant difference to performance and longevity of the battery and alternator.

I might underestimate VW's computer engineers and programmers but I think many over estimate VW's computer engineers and programmers and VW's computer systems (over-complex and intertwined though they are). VW don't always get things right, or can be trusted as has been proven in court of law.

Then again it might be under estimating VW's computer engineers and programmers to think they've not allowed for disconnection of the system in various ways for various causes(?).

As always each to their own.

Every mechanic I know says you must code a new battery. Every pro diagnostic tool has the facility.

There is an engineer on VW watercooled who I respect and who has an intimate knowledge of VAG systems and he says DONT DO IT as it mucks up the way the smart alternator charges the battery and can constantly overcharge it as no state of charge reading for it to turn off charging. Here is a better description than I could write

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/auxiliary-battery-charging-in-vehicles-with-smart-alternators.html?srsltid=AfmBOorIJd9s0H3mdOBbmY9I39Hdkt9uc6iqQP0UiOdNl01sosyOo9t7 Disregard the bit about Auxilary battery charging but it is correct.

Also if you change your EFL battery and put in an AGM and when recoding it you must change the type to FLEECE which for the unknowing is VAG's name for AGM Dont ask me why

The Guy on Watercooled posts under the name of DV52 and I think is on some UK forums as well. He is an electronic engineer and well versed in VAG products and Im sorry but I would take his word over any post on here.

Question Why would VAG put sensor leads on a battery so the ECU can read the state of charge if they werent necessary. Even if they only cost a $1 a car it is costing VAG millions per year so why not just delete them as the non mechanic on here says they arent needed. Your cars your money but AFAIK I wont be disconnecting them. Remember the Ford Pinto that left 2 struts out that cost about $2 a car and how much it ended up costing them.

Im not a mechanic either but respect the knowledgeable who I have read and offer their reasons which are not my own as Im not qualified to tell people what to do. Your cars your money Please yourself. Am just trying to offer a reason not to do it .

Exkiwi makes a good reasoned case.

And yes VW as is their 'funny' ways of doing things seem to call AGM "fleece" as has been covered many times in many posts and threads on here over the years but is always worth letting those that might not know, er, know, which I also do when posting about 'coding' the battery to make it a bit more inclusive (rather than exclusive as some pros or snobby/ego/insecure types would prefer).

There are many reasons why VW would spend an extra $1 on a car, particularly now since courts actions but they certainly don't if they don't need and of course $1 on build escalates at retail sales price of product.

As for -

23 hours ago, Aldfort said:

Every mechanic I know says you must code a new battery. Every pro diagnostic tool has the facility.

well they would wouldn't they, it brings them income and restricts DIY and others, of course pro scanners and some pro/diy scanners have this if they want to sell that scan tool to pros, it's another revenue stream available for use.

A BMW mechanic/technician told me not to worry about 'coding' the battery (like-for-like) they didn't on his brother's car - but - I put there's debate about this and to get it 'coded' if possible, not to loose sleep if it can't be done at all and for those that haven't bothered or don't want to fair enough, the world hasn't ended (yet) and those batteries are into years of reliable service.

I'm told not to recharge the battery on wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 to 100%, and before I installed new on the car, yet I do recharge to full every time and did before I installed it. It has since been to the Dealership and a couple of independent garages without comment on any battery or charging issues and the Dealership certainly looks and quotes for unnecessary chargeable work. Only one independent garage has given me a scan tool print-off of "health report" / error codes (here today gone today VW stuff, can't remember what but ones I'd never seen before). The battery continues to give good reliable service after (only) 4 years and 44k-miles, my wife does very short journeys almost everyday and the AGM battery sits in the engine bay without the additional insulation.

As VW found out to their very great cost (in USA at least) real world testing shows up theoretical and laboratory testing and manufacturer's and others claims.

If anyone want to test the health of the battery on my wife's car and it's found to be poor I will stop treating it the way I do.

As for those that didn't 'code' their batteries, or disconnected that battery thing on the negative post clamp they would have to say how long their battery lasted and if they had issues from doing so.

Wow, you guys. OK so don't code your new batteries and pull wire connections off the car without fully knowing what you are doing. I really don't care that much provided you don't live near me.

Wot guys, there's only me and I don't live anywhere near Cardiff, yer safe. 😄

Ok well I will bang my head against the wall a bit longer.

VAG charging works like this AFAIK It has a smart alternator run by the ECU. The ECU reads the battery SOC and adjusts the charging rate to suit.. As it takes more to charge an older battery you must code the new one in EVEN IF IT IS IDENTICAL so that it alters the charging rates etc. As for charging, the ECU reads the SOC and adjust things as needed. Also the ECU governs amount of charging in the following circumstances.

1. When car is accelerating it lessens the charging rate to lessen pressure on the engine, supposedly to help fuel consumption

2. When coasting or going down a hill on the overrun it increases rate as doesnt matter to the engine. ( Called regenerative charging).

Also the battery is normally charged to 80- 90 % to allow headroom for regenerative charging.

These things all rely on the ECU being able to read SOC of the battery.

So all of the above is why you SHOULD NOT disconnect the wires on the battery as if you do the ECU has no idea of anything and so just blindly pumps charge into the battery regardless of anything.

It s a bit like having cancer (As I have) and with correct treatment life is prolonged.

Withdraw all treatment ( remove wires) and life is shortened.

Yes I know wives cars batteries last forever, In fact often longer than the wife but never the less the stuff is there for a reason and is one thing I would never play with.

Whether or not it will alter anything I dont really know but am not prepared to dance with the devil unnecessarily.

As I have said I am only offering advice and not saying you should or shouldnt do anything .

I have just set out how it is supposed to work and you decide

Bye Bye

Edited 26 July, 202526 Jul by Exkiwi

It fascinates me that we have somebody who knows, or has bothered to find out, why you need to code in a new battery having to constantly repeat the fact you need to code in a new battery.

It is true that back in the stone age charging systems were a little more crude than they are today, hence why the car did not need to know (could not be told) it had a new battery. When I was young I'd happily slap any old battery I could find into my old clunker to keep it going. Sadly those days are gone and now the cars electronics control everything and need to know about battery replacement as they'll then compensate for the fact as has been explained above.

As can be seen in the Fabia Mk3 section and likely in others there were members with Stop / Start issues, battery issues and hey hoe what did dealerships do while they supposedly Contact the Factory, or scratch their arses, they send out cars with the Stop / Start disabled.

But these are Factory Trained Technicians, Master Techs, techs, fitters or maybe apprentices.

The biggest car manufacturer or they were do turn out vehicles with some real cut price components, or components and systems that were or are about WLTP certification.

10 minutes ago, Aldfort said:

It fascinates me that we have somebody who knows, or has bothered to find out, why you need to code in a new battery having to constantly repeat the fact you need to code in a new battery.

It is true that back in the stone age charging systems were a little more crude than they are today, hence why the car did not need to know (could not be told) it had a new battery. When I was young I'd happily slap any old battery I could find into my old clunker to keep it going. Sadly those days are gone and now the cars electronics control everything and need to know about battery replacement as they'll then compensate for the fact as has been explained above.

Its like hammering in nails, some take more than others to get the message.. Hopefully you are supportive of my posts.

Stop Start - most dealers who have access to the correct VW coding tools can code Stop Start to default to off. You then need to press the button to turn it on. I fail to see in what way this fact is relevant as it is, as was sort of mentioned, well known that this can be done.

10 hours ago, Exkiwi said:

Ok well I will bang my head against the wall a bit longer. . . .

Uhmm, have a look at attached (if it works, if not look up SSP 426). You and Aidfort seem to think just because I'm not a VW disciple that I'm against coding the battery which isn't the case, and I'm not against use of the start/stop system (peeing in the ocean though it is every little helps as Tesco tell us). Many, many times I've put up details from the battery coding on my wife's car and how to 'code' the battery guides by a previous Briskoda member and suggest it's a good idea to 'code' the battery, but the world won't end or car or battery explode if they can't do it immediately. Nor will it even if not 'coded' based on the self reported experience of some posters here. Perhaps they were lying or don't want to come back and say the battery was ruined by their action.

There are plenty of other pro, semi-pro / DIY scan tools that can have the start/stop to default off.

Whilst I under valve the VW programers and systems I think you well over value their talents and systems.

SSP-426-Start-stop-system-2009.pdf

Edited 27 July, 202527 Jul by nta16

14 hours ago, nta16 said:

Uhmm, have a look at attached (if it works, if not look up SSP 426). You and Aidfort seem to think just because I'm not a VW disciple that I'm against coding the battery which isn't the case, and I'm not against use of the start/stop system (peeing in the ocean though it is every little helps as Tesco tell us). Many, many times I've put up details from the battery coding on my wife's car and how to 'code' the battery guides by a previous Briskoda member and suggest it's a good idea to 'code' the battery, but the world won't end or car or battery explode if they can't do it immediately. Nor will it even if not 'coded' based on the self reported experience of some posters here. Perhaps they were lying or don't want to come back and say the battery was ruined by their action.

There are plenty of other pro, semi-pro / DIY scan tools that can have the start/stop to default off.

Whilst I under valve the VW programers and systems I think you well over value their talents and systems.

SSP-426-Start-stop-system-2009.pdf

Yeah a great article from 2009 We and VW have moved on since then. From Mid 2020 it has been impossible to code out Stop Start. I have tried every known method and you cant do it electronically. The cheat cable does work and is the only known method that I have found. If you know how to code it out on vehicle newer than mid 2020 POST IT HERE or give it up. Also provide a list of the "plenty" of tools that will do it because up until we couldnt there was only 2 reliable ones.

As far as battery coding , well if you just run down to the shops and back probably wont make any difference as battery will never get fully charged anyway. BUT charge it to 100% and go for a long drive over varying terrain and when it tries to regeneratively charge in the allowed headroom and there is none, what will happen. I dont know either but suspect it will be nothing good. To not do such a minor thing which may have major implications is just foolish. But as I say your car your decision but to suggest it isnt necessary when people who dont know may follow blindly is disingenuous.

17 hours ago, nta16 said:

Edited 28 July, 202528 Jul by Exkiwi

Thanks for the update the last vehicle I had coded to reverse the stop start button function was 2022. I will do some checking around and find out if current VW product cannot have stop start long coded out.

40 minutes ago, Aldfort said:

Thanks for the update the last vehicle I had coded to reverse the stop start button function was 2022. I will do some checking around and find out if current VW product cannot have stop start long coded out.

Well would be interested to know what it was because my May21 built Kamiq cannot be done by any know method by me.. Even the $50 I wasted on the cheater cable doesn't work because I lost the instructions for it and it wont work either Have given up and just live with it as its not all that much of an inconvenience really.

Would this not be SFD unlock then? - https://support.obdeleven.com/en/articles/5685742-what-is-sfd

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Would this not be SFD unlock then? - https://support.obdeleven.com/en/articles/5685742-what-is-sfd

No because I can code in those protected modules and OBDELEVEN paid a lot of money to VAG for access to them. Until recently VCDS were locked out but i believe they have now coughed up the money also. I was in fact in 09 Central electrics yesterday having a little play around with out problems. But then I have a GEN 1 with a lifetime Pro licence. They have locked quite a bit of stuff and S/S is the one that annoys everyone. Most of the locked ones pertain to emissions etc that are mandated and therefore they are locked so we cant bypass regulations etc