We all have heard about it more or less, in the beginning they put that switch to cut the power to the gas pump but latter they extend it.

Nowadays via internet the thieves can get many electronic devices, there are sites and even applications in smartphones to help them

 

 

so is the Kill Switch ''the last line of Defence" ?

 

How to wire a Kill Switch - theft deterrent

 

 

 

 

 

Car Truck Ignition Fuse Hidden Cut Out Kill Switch

 

 

 

 

 

To be honest i don't want to mess with fuses.

 

Cigarette lighter coil wire kill switch

 

 

Although it's for old style car it's an amazing patent !

 

 

There is also a Remote Control version of this Kill Switch, here are some examples.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I wonder doesn't drain the battery after some days in ON position?

How about cutting the power to the Solenoid (and not the batteries negative cable), would be effective too?

 

 

What a song and dance about fitting a 'kill switch' to a nice simple vehicle to fit a hidden kill switch too. 

I have tried to cover all the aspects, simple kill switch, with 2 or 3 functions, with remote control.

I am sceptical about the Ampere that this (remote control) relay may consumes in ''stand by mode" and i have found these:

 

 

 

In theory but practical

 

 

 

 

so if you move your car after few days (according to him) won't drain your battery.

I have used latching relays in the past to cut the power to everything except the main starter cable, they were operated by a hidden N/O push switch, I used tiny ones for electronic circuits and hid them up & under the dashboard, in the area around the steering column, invisible and not even obvious to touch until it became a routine thing.

 

You would switch on the ignition in the normal manner but nothing would happen, no dash lights no nothing, then feel for and push the switch which would latch the relay in and the vehicle could be started and driven as usual, switching off the ignition would break the latching circuit, if the vehicle stalled you could restart it as the ignition does not need to be turned off, only back to the accessory position.

 

A refinement for motorsport use was using a pair of  larger red N/C pushbuttons as emergency cut off switches mounted visibly on the dash and beside the drivers A pillar in accordance with the RAC blue book and with the relevant stickers, they met the spirit of the regs if not the fine detail as a short to the main battery cable could still cook the battery but that is relatively safe compared to having the loom of much smaller wires catch fire, it met the requirements of the scrutineers in that it would stop the engine if it was running (and not kill the alternator diodes), it was amazing how many so called pro prepared vehicles had cut off switches that did not stop the engine from running from the alternator.

 

Proof that the hidden switch worked was when I recommissioned my self engineered motorcyle engined Caterham to sell 3 years ago when I sold up in the UK, I had not driven it since 2004, I knew I had to push the hidden switch, I knew where it was but could I feel it? - No way! Could I see it even lying upside down with my head in the footwell using a torch? - No way! My vison had deteriorated in the two decades.

 

I had to remove the scuttle (4 knurled nuts, another race modification) to find the N/O push switch, it was exactly where I recalled putting it and I had lost the feeling of it, it worked fine and the engine started.

 

Using a latching relay in this way no current is drawn when the vehicle is immobilised and only a few milli-amps more when running.

 

Google will give you the circuit diagram but basically you energise the relay coil from the push switch which then puts 12v onto a second N/O contact wired to the relay coil, you push the button which energises the relay and the second contact keeps the coil energised, the kill switches are N/C ones wired in series with the wire from the second contact to the relay coil, it will be clearer when you see the circuit diagram.

 

I have also used a variation of this on high compression engines with race cams which would struggle to crank against the ignition advance and a couple that would kick back and run backwards (fatal for cam followers) in that case the latching circuit was the ignition coil only, you would start the engine like Biggles, crank it over at high speed (no ignition advance opposing it) shout "CONTACT!" and push the latching button and the engine would roar into life!

 

I first did this on a 6 volt split screen VW camper, when timed by ear you could get the engine to develop a lot more power compared to stock and it drove much better but would struggle to start, others converted to 12v or used a seperate 12v battery for the starter, I used a latching relay.

10 hours ago, J.R. said:

witching off the ignition would break the latching circuit

 

I don't want to ''break'' the fuel pump circuit because i have heard that the thieves first will insist many times cranking the engine and if they don't hear the sound of the pump after the first scale of the ignition key will start searching for a hidden switch.

I had the thought that when the car is parked in the street (among others) and after cut-off the ignition the thief can not manage to start the car and since has not the space to push it-engage gear-start it, then he will abandon any try.

In the ''how-to'' videos with the remote control system it's easy to ''cut-off'' the negative cable to the pole but if the thief raises the hood then he would easily see the relay.

 

You can choose whatever circuit you want to interrupt with the latching relay.

 

"Cutting off" the battery negative cable would not allow the fuel pump and starter circuits to run which is what it seems you desire.

 

The motorsport battery cut off switches are notoriously unreliable, cheap shonky contacts that are not capable of reliably and frequently carrying the starter current, choose your circuit(s) to immobilise with care, the lower the current the smaller the relay the easier it is to hide, the pushbutton for the latch can be as small as 3mm, not visible but you the driver will be able to find it easily every time by feel.

cut the starter solenoid and you don't need to mess with the wiring loom

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

cut the starter solenoid and you don't need to mess with the wiring loom

 

I saw a video with a guy removing the start relay (which was in the fuse box), then connenting with a cable 2 pins (you have to know which) and ''brooom'' the car started (of course with no key).

That's why i don't want to do anything inside the cabin for example with the main switch cables because i know that this is the first place that the thief will start working.

How many Ampere must this relay be for the solenoid cable? 100-200-240?

That's why i do not believe that cutting a cable from the main switch to the relay won't always stop a thief.

Anything that can ''close the circuit" no matter if it's a piece of cable or a paper clip can start your car from the start relay.

 

 

Go to 3:33

 

 

Go to 2:22

 

 

Go to 4:08.

 

This is not panacea but works with many cars and i don't want this to happen to mine.

 

21 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

How many Ampere must this relay be for the solenoid cable

10A is fine

 

So where is the better place for cutting a wire and interfere that switch?

Is that going to create an error code?

I know that interrupting the cam sensor signal (without disconnecting the battery) definitely creates problems after a while.

very easy to do on the felly as its a spade connector

The ''easy'' of ''difficult'' is not an issue for me, the electrician will do the job, i care more about ''the most efficient'' way.

 

So based on the diagram from the manufacturer of that remote kill switch

 

 

and your advice we have this?

 

 

 

 

Here is my starter solenoid, that cable (Yellow arrow) goes to the relay?

 

 

Edited 15 September, 20241 yr by D.FYLAKTOS

Is this an alternative solution?

 

 

 

From Negative pole the cable goes to the Kill Switch and then from him to the Solenoid.

When the Kill Switch is activated the car won't crank, am i right?

22 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Is this an alternative solution?

 

 

 

From Negative pole the cable goes to the Kill Switch and then from him to the Solenoid.

When the Kill Switch is activated the car won't crank, am i right?

Yes but you need very thick wires 

20 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Yes but you need very thick wires 

 

The black existing cable it's ready with its own receiver and as is goes to the module.

That module on the other side has its own "blade" which can be screwed on the solenoid.

 

No need for extra cable.

 

 

Ah oh Okey 

Let's say that accidentaly while i am one the move (e.g. a travel) i push the button from the remote control and the Kill Switch cuts the power to the solenoid.

While the engine is running is there would be a problem?

There would be an indication (light) in the gauge cluster or not?

Disconnecting a battery connection while the engine (and alternator) is running can result in failure of alternator diode pack.

9 minutes ago, Warrior193 said:

Disconnecting a battery connection while the engine (and alternator) is running

 

The Kill Switch will cut the power to the solenoid only, tha car won't be able to start.

Arrived, has everything inside the package.

 

 

 

The directions are in chinese, was a trouble for them to make a translation page in english?

 

 

The reason that i choose this model was this:

 

Intelligent Automatic Disconnection: The car remote battery cut off switch features an automatic disconnection function that activates if the battery voltage drops below 11.8V. It automatically cuts off power within 120 seconds to conserve energy. Conversely, when the voltage exceeds 13.2V, the remote control becomes inactive to prevent accidental power cuts while driving, ensuring manual switch control only.

Enhanced Battery Protection: By leveraging this leakage protection device, you can avoid unnecessary battery drainage caused by prolonged parking periods, well-functioning electronics, wiring degradation, or forgetting to turn off the lights. It effectively protects and extends the life of your vehicle's battery, ensuring it remains charged and ready for use, ultimately enhancing the overall longevity of your vehicle's electrical system.

 

 

 

 

That reminds me to buy some popcorn!

 

I havn't seen the film before but I can already guess the ending!

Edited 29 September, 20241 yr by J.R.